aass-EiJ2_9_£l 
Book .S ^ - 



f 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES 




1 



CLIMBS & EXPLORATIOIN^ 

♦ 

IN THE 

CANADIAN ROCKIES 



BY 



HUGH E. M. STUTFIELD 

AUTHOR OF "EL MAGHREB: 1200 MILES' 
RIDE THROUGH MOROCCO ' 

AND 

jf NORMAN COLLIE, F.R.S. 

AUTHOR OP "CLIMBING ON THE HIMALAYA 
AND OTHER MOUNTAIN RANGES " 



WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS 




LONGMANS, GREEN AND CO. 
39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON 
NEW YORK AND BOMBAY 
1903 



All rights reserved 



> t 




PREFATORY NOTE 



The authors' thanks are due to the Council of 
the Royal Geographical Society for permission 
to reproduce Professor Collie's map of the 
Canadian Rockies from the Geogi^aphical 
Journal ; to Messrs. William Blackwood and 
Sons for leave to make excerpts from an article 
by Mr. Stutfield that appeared in Blackwood s 
Magazine ; and to Mr. Hermann Woolley and 
Mr. Sydney Spencer for the use of their ad- 
mirable photographs. 



CONTENTS 



CHAP. PAGE 

I. Historical ....... 1 

II. Ascent of Lefroy and Victoria ; and the 

Waputehk Ice-Field . . . . . l6 

III. In Search of Mount Murchison ... 39 

IV. Through the Pipestone and Siffleur Val- 

leys ........ 67 

V. Up the North Fork of the Saskatchewan , 90 

VI. Athabasca Peak; a Bighorn Hunt; and 

Discovery of the Columbia Ice-Field . 105 

VII. To the Valley of the Athabasca^ and As- 
cent of Diadem Peak . . . .123 

VIII. Thompson Peak and the Selkirks . .140 

IX. The Bush River 155 

X. To the Head of the Bush Valley . . 181 

XI. Our Camp on Goat Peak .... 200 

XII. Sundry Mountain Ascents . . .215 

XIII. To Bear Creek Once More .... 233 



XIV. Mount Murchison and Mount Freshfield . 251 

vii 



CONTENTS 

CHAP. PAGE 

XV. Mount Forbes and Howse Peak . . . 273 

XVI. Glacier Lake and the Lyell Ice-Field . 290 

XVII. Moraine Lake and the Ten Peaks . . 307 

XVIII. A Note on Sport and Game in the Cana- 
dian Rockies ...... 323 

INDEX 339 



viii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS 

Bush River and Peak (^Photograph by Sydney Spencer) 

Frontispiece 

5 The Howse Pass from near Glacier Lake 

(J.N. Collie) . . . . . To face p. 8 



The Bow Glacier {H. Woolley) ... „ 28 
The Lower Bow Lake (showing Mounts Bal- 
four and Gordon) (J. N. Collie) . . 34 
Stone Blocks on Freshfield Glacier (Woolley) 62 
In the Valley of the Saskatchewan (Woolley) 70 
Bear Creek Camping-Ground (Woolley) . „ 88 
- The North Fork Valley (^Woolley) . . „ 100 
. Camp at the Headwaters of the Saskat- 
chewan AND THE Athabasca ( ^oo//ey) . 104 
Athabasca Peak (looking West) (^oo//e^) . 110 
A Day Off with Peyto at Bear Creek 

{Woolley) ,,136 

The Selkirks (from Peak Swanzy) (^Spencer) . • „ 150 

Cloud Effects in the Bush Valley (Spencer) „ 158 
An Awkward Corner on the Bush River 

(Spencer) ....... ,,182 

At the Head of Bush Valley {Spencer) . 190 
Spencer Range from Camp on Goat Peak 

{Spe7icer) . . . . . . . . 206 

Peak Swanzy (Spencer) . . . . . „ 2l6 

Mount Sir Donald {Spencer) .... 226 

ix 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Gorge OF Bear Creek (fVoollei/) . . To face p. 234f 
Bear Creek, with Pyramid, Mount Wilson, 

AND MuRCHisoN [Woolley) . . . „ 242 

Mount Murchison (^Woolley) .... 250 

Mount Forbes ( Woolleij) .... 272 

Howse Peak and Waterfowl Lake ( Woolley) „ 304 

After the Bighorn Hunt (Woolley) . . „ 324 

HALF-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS 
{Frojn Photographs hy the Authors) 

Mount Lefroy and Victoria . . . „ 18 

Gorge below the Bow Ice-Fall ... 18 

Near the Summit of the Bow Pass . . 42 

Waterfowl Lake ...... „ 42 

Freshfield Group from Peak Sarbach . 48 

The Middle Fork of the Saskatchewan . 48 
Looking North from the Slopes of Mount 

Freshfield ...... 54 

The Freshfield Glacier (looking South) . 54 

A '^Smudge" 76 

Collie on " The Grey " . . . . 76 

The Siffleur Creek ..... 80 

Fallen Timber in the Siffleur Valley . 80 

^ Bear Creek (low water) 92 

" A Backwater of the North Fork . . ,,92 

WOOLLEY ON "^Joe" ..... ,, 96 

^'The Pinto" „ 96 

Mount Columbia . . . . . . ,,118 

Diadem Peaks from Wild Sheep Hills . ,, 118 

Gorge in Sun Wapta Valley . . . ,,126 
From the Slopes of Diadem Peak (looking 

South) 126 

X 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Fossil Forest To face p. 142 

Thompson Peak . . . . . . ,,142 

A British Columbia Forest Scene . . „ l66 

Evening in the Bush Valley . . . „ l66 

The Bush Valley , . . . . . ,,174 

Fording a Branch Stream . . . „ 174 

A Muskeg in the Bush Valley . . . 196 

The Home of the Wild Goat . . • „ 196 

Mount Bryce from Goat Peak . . . „ 202 

Bush Peak from Goat Peak . . . „ 202 
Collie Surveying; Fred Stephens, and Spencer ,, 210 

Lyell Range and Alexandra Peak . . „ 210 

Mount Edith „ 220 

-The Bush Pass ,,220 

The Top of Mount Murchison . . . „ 254 

Mount Pilkington ,,254 

' Looking down Couloir on Murchison . . ,, 258 

Mount Forbes from the Saskatchewan Valley „ 258 

Breakfast-place at the Foot of Freshfield „ 266 

" Summit of Mount Freshfield . . . „ 266 

Mount Forbes from the East . . . „ 280 
View Northwards from the Summit of 

Mount Forbes ..... „ 280 

Valley of the Saskatchewan . . . „ 288 

Fording the Saskatchewan .... „ 288 

--An Ideal Camping-ground .... ,, 292 

Glacier Lake ...... „ 292 

Fire at Glacier Lake ..... ,, 296 

-Rafting on Glacier Lake .... „ 296 

~ Forbes from the Lyell Ice-field . . . „ 300 

HowsE Peak from the West . . . „ 300 

xi 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



~ Laggan Group of Mountains from the Bow 

Valley ...... To face p. 310 

^ Hungabee, Victoria, and Lefroy from Nep- 

tuak ....... 310 

" Climbing Neptuak . . . . . . 3l6 

Mount Deltaform . . . . . „ 3l6 

' The Goat hangs high " . . . . „ 330 

Ptarmigan ....... ,, 330 



MAPS 

Sketch Map showing all that was known in 1896 
OF the main Rocky Mountain Range northwards 
OF Mount Balfour to the Athabasca Pass . page 66 

Sketch Map of the Canadian Rocky Mountains by 

J. Norman Collie ...... at end 



xii 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES 
CHAPTER I 



An' it was a game worth playin^ ! Alone — at the heart of 
the worlds 

Where the mighty snow-slides thundered^ and the long grey 

vapours curled : 
When we mere pigmies ventured to storm Creation's hold^ 
Staked our lives on the highest bluff, and played the world 

for her gold. 

We had Great Things then for our comrades, and Forces of 
Earth for foes ; 

There^s one goes down in the battle, and another don't care 



One hundred years ago the Dominion of 
Canada, stretching as it does over thousands of 
miles, covered with dense forests, watered by- 
unnumbered rivers, and dotted over with count- 
less lakes, was a land in many places as difficult 
of access as Siberia ; and its Rocky Mountains, 
the back-bone of the continent, were almost un- 
known. Now even, although a trans-continental 



HISTORICAL 



when he goes.' 



— Clive Phillips Wolley. 



A 




CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

railway connects the Atlantic with the Pacific 
Ocean, many parts still remain unexplored. For 
instance, only as far back as 1898, a vast snow- 
field and some of the highest mountains in the 
Rocky Mountain system were discovered at the 
head-waters of three of the largest rivers of 
Canada, the Athabasca, the Saskatchewan, and 
the Columbia ; whilst even now, further north, 
in those regions where rise the Peace River, the 
Liard, and the Pelly, large areas are probably 
to be found covered with perpetual snow and 
glaciers, which feed turbulent streams Avowing 
seawards through deep valleys filled with almost 
impenetrable pine-woods. No human beings five 
there, with the exception of a few prospectors 
and trappers ; Indians seldom if ever hunt 
amongst these mountain fastnesses, and the land 
is desolate and deserted. 

The history of this " Great Lone Land," 
this north-western and western part of the 
Dominion, is soon told. Its history is practi- 
cally that of the fur trade. It is the tale of 
the hunters and trappers, the tale of those who 
left all to wander in strange places, hoping 
often against hope that some day they would 
be rich in the goods of men; but although 
this seldom happened and they came back 

2 



HISTORICAL 

poor, yet they had gained what such life alone 
can give : — 

" The lore of men that ha' dealt with men. 
In the new and naked lands." 

Even now the only names one sees on the map in 
a great part of this country are those of Forts : 
Fort Reliance, Fort Good Hope, Fort Enter- 
prise, and so on — centres where the furs were 
collected. 

As far back as 1670 a charter was granted to 
Prince Rupert, and a coalition of traders was 
formed to exploit the riches of this country. The 
Company possessed the right to all the commerce 
and trade of that portion which drained into 
Hudson's Bay. Towards the end of the eigh- 
teenth century Captain Cook, in his "Voyages 
Round the World," first drew attention to the 
great value of the fur trade on the western coast 
of North America, with the result that many 
ships were fitted out for carrying it on, both by 
the English, the Americans, and the Russians. 

About the same time, 1783, a rival under- 
taking to the Hudson's Bay Company came into 
existence, namely, the North-West Company. 
Many were the conflicts between these two, and 
their mutual animosity and jealousy not in- 
frequently caused bloodshed. In 1821 the 

3 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

North- West Company ceased to exist, being 
merged in the Hudson's Bay Company. 

In the meantime, at the end of the eighteenth 
century, Mr. John Jacob Astor founded the 
American Fur Company, whose headquarters 
were at Astoria, near the mouth of the Columbia 
River. But after a stormy existence this com- 
pany was extinguished during the war of 1812, 
by Astoria faUing into the hands of the Enghsh. 
The furs when collected were taken to various 
markets ; some were shipped to China and 
Japan and bartered for tea, silks, and other 
goods, whilst some were with great toil and 
difficulty transported over the mountains and 
taken down in canoes to the Great Lakes, and 
so to eastern Canada. This journey usually 
occupied the best part of a year, and a graphic 
description of crossing the mountains is to be 
found in Ross Cox's "Adventures on the 
Columbia River, 1817." 

The first man, however, who actually crossed 
the continent in these high latitudes was Sir 
Alexander Mackenzie in 1793. Several ex- 
plorers before this had penetrated as far west 
as the Rocky Mountains, but there is no record 
of any one having been successful in proceeding 
further. Mackenzie's route across the continent, 

4 



HISTORICAL 



after the mountains had been reached, lay up 
the Peace River, in canoes. From its source a 
portage was made to the head- waters of the 
Fraser River, and finally, after endless dangers 
and misfortunes had been overcome, the Pacific 
Ocean was reached at latitude 52° 20' 48'^ It 
was before this, in 1789, that Mackenzie had 
penetrated as far north as the Arctic Ocean, 
down the great river that now bears his name. 

A few years later Alexander Henry, one of 
the hunters of the North- West Company, kept a 
journal in which he wrote down from day to day 
(1799-1814) a description of his life amidst the 
woods and wild places of that part of Canada 
that lies between the great Lakes and the 
Pacific Ocean. This journal has only recently 
been published,^ but it contains endless interest- 
ing information of the wild life of the pioneers 
of those days ; moreover, the Editor has incor- 
porated with it, in the form of notes, the history 
of another pioneer, David Thompson, the cele- 
brated explorer, geographer, astronomer, and 
scientist. David Thompson was constantly 
travelhng in every direction through the same 

1 ^'^The Manuscript Journals of Alexander Henry^ Fur-Trader 
of the North-West Company^ and of David Thompson, Official 
Geographer and Explorer of the same Company/^ Edited by 
Elliott Coues. 3 vols. 1897. 

5 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

country as Henry, and during the same period - 
(1789-1812). Probably amongst the early wan- 
derers in Western Canada there were none whose 
record equals that of Thompson. It was he who 
discovered the sources of the Columbia River ; 
and he was the first white man to explore its upper 
waters and tributaries, and also to cross the Rocky 
Mountains by means of more than one pass, from 
the head-waters of the Athabasca to those of the 
Columbia. His greatest achievement, however, 
was undoubtedly his "Map of the North- West 
Territory of the Province of Canada." This 
was compiled from a survey extending over 
many years (1792-1812), and, considering the 
immense area it covers, it is a marvel of accuracy. 

The Fraser River was explored to its mouth 
in 1809 by Jules Quesnel, Simon Fraser, and 
John Stuart, under the impression that it was 
the Columbia. 

Some years later Alexander Ross, in his book 
entitled " The Fur-Hunters of the Far West : 
a Narrative of Adventures in the Oregon and 
Rocky Mountains," describes the life of the first 
settlers on the Columbia River ; and he writes 
of that region as the " farthest of the far west," 
whilst the Red River Settlement,^ where he 

1 Now known as Winnipeg and Manitoba. 

6 



HISTORICAL 

spent the remainder of his Hfe, he pictures as 
"a spot more effectually cut off from the 
rest of the world than any other colony of the 
empire." 

From the early part of last century till 1858 
few people penetrated into these western valleys. 
Sir George Simpson, on his journey round the 
world, crossed the Rocky Mountains by the 
Simpson Pass in 1841, and then descended 
the Kootenay River to the Columbia. Towards 
the end of the fifties, however, miners who had 
pushed north from California began to con- 
gregate in considerable numbers near the head- 
waters of the Fraser River, as gold had been 
found then in the Cariboo country. 

A road was built, called the " Cariboo Road," 
up the canyon of the Fraser, to connect the 
mining district with the Pacific coast. A mar- 
vellous piece of engineering skill it still remains, 
resembling some of those that exist in the 
terrific gorges of the Himalaya. Although 
abandoned now for many years, parts of it can 
yet be seen from the cars of the Canadian 
Pacific Railway, clinging to the precipitous 
sides of that vast canyon through which the 
Fraser flows. 

By far the most exhaustive account of these 
7 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

western districts of Canada is that by Captain 
J. Palliser, published as a report to the Houses 
of Parhament. PaUiser had been sent out in 
1857 by the Government to explore "that 
portion of British North America which lies 
between the northern branch of the River 
Saskatchewan and the frontier of the United 
States, and between the Red River and the 
Rocky Mountains." In addition to this the 
Government " wished to ascertain whether any 
practical pass or passes, available for horses, 
existed across the Rocky Mountains within 
British territory, and south of that known to 
exist between Mount Brown and Mount 
Hooker in latitude 54° 10'" (the Athabasca 
Pass). 

During his explorations in conjunction with 

Dr. Hector and others, the Kananaskis Pass, 

the Vermilion Pass, and the British Kootanie 

Pass were discovered and mapped, whilst Dr. 

Hector by himself discovered the Kicking Horse 

Pass, and also traversed the Howse Pass (or 

Howe's Pass). This pass had at that time, 

1859, been abandoned for such a long period 

that he hardly found any trace of the trail that 

had once existed, when the North-Western Fur 

Company used the route for communicating 

8 



HISTORICAL 



with their posts on the Pacific at the beginning 
of the century. 

Although PaUiser and his party had explored 
all these passes through the Rocky Mountains, 
yet that immense area which lies between the 
Rocky Mountains and the Pacific coast and 
comprises the Selkirk Mountains and the Cas- 
cade Range, formed an impassable barrier, and 
a road through it was never made. To quote 
Palliser's report : The connection, therefore, 
of the Saskatchewan Plains, east of the Rocky 
Mountains, with a known route through British 
Columbia has been effected by the expedition 
under my command, without our having been 
under the necessity of passing through any 
portion of United States territory. Still, the 
knowledge of the country on the whole would 
never lead me to advocate a line of communi- 
cation from Canada across the continent to the 
Pacific exclusively through British territory. 
The time has now for ever gone by for effecting 
such an object, and the unfortunate choice of 
an astronomical boundary line has completely 
isolated the Central American possessions of 
Britain from Canada in the east, and almost 
debarred them from any eligible access from the 
Pacific coast on the west." 

9 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

This report of Palliser's, in the Hght of our 
present knowledge, does not seem justifiable ; 
yet it was a perfectly fair deduction from the 
facts available at the time. The immense diffi- 
culties which all but wrecked the completion of 
a trans- continental Canadian railway line over 
twenty years later would in those days have 
been quite insurmountable. 

Between the time of Palliser's expedition and 
the present era, which began with the opening 
of the Canadian Pacific Railway, there was one 
more expedition worthy of mention to the Rocky 
Mountains — that of Viscount Milton and Dr. 
Cheadle in 1863. They crossed the mountains 
from the head-waters of the Athabasca to those 
of the Fraser River over the Yellow Head Pass, 
emerging at Kamloops. A most vivid descrip- 
tion of this journey is given in that delightful 
volume, " The North-West Passage by Land." 

In 1871 British Columbia entered the Do- 
minion of Canada, and at once a Government 
survey for the Canadian Pacific Railway was 
started. It was amongst the Rocky Mountains 
that the difficulty of selecting a route was most 
evident. No less than eleven different ways 
across the mountains were surveyed from the 
Peace River in the north to the Crow's Nest 

lO 



HISTORICAL 

Pass in the south. But at last, almost regard- 
less of expense, a railway was built — a railway 
that for hundreds of miles passes through 
thickly-wooded valleys, over lofty mountain 
ranges, across raging torrents hundreds of feet 
below, till finally it reaches the Pacific coast at 
Vancouver. The survey alone is said to have 
cost between three and four million dollars ; but 
eventually the Canadian Pacific Railway was 
opened in 1886, after nearly one hundred and 
fifty million dollars had been expended on its 
construction. 

The facilities afforded by the railway of 
necessity largely stopped the use of the old 
passes, but at the same time gave much greater 
facilities to those who wished to travel in the 
mountains in search of game or amusement. 
For, prior to the building of the railway, any 
one wishing to visit these Rocky Mountains of 
Canada would have had to spend at least three 
months' time in getting there. In spite, how- 
ever, of the extra facihty offered, very little 
advantage seems to have been taken of this easy 
road to the actual edge of the unexplored. 

The first to make use of it was the Canadian 

Survey — Dr. George M. Dawson spending 

several summers on the watershed of the con- 

1 1 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

tinent. The results were published in a "Report 
on the Physical and Geological Features of that 
Portion of the Rocky Mountains between Lati- 
tudes 49° and 51° 30'" (1886), which begins with 
a history of all previous explorations in that 
district. No less than nine passes across the 
Divide were explored by Dr. Dawson or his 
subordinates. In 1886, also, a detailed examina- 
tion of the Bow River Pass and the vicinity was 
made by Mr. R. G. M'Connell. 

Most of the survey work amongst the moun- 
tains has been done by the Geological section ; 
it not being worth the while of the ordinary 
survey to send men into this uninhabited land, 
whilst so much country of a far more important 
nature had not yet been mapped out. In 1898 
another member of the Geological Survey, Mr. 
M'Evoy, during a summer spent in the vicinity 
of the Yellow Head Pass, measured a mountain 
called Robson Peak, and found it to be 13,500 
feet high. This peak for the present, therefore, 
is the highest that has been accurately surveyed 
in the Rocky Mountains of Canada. It is only 
within recent years, however, that many sport- 
ing or mountaineering expeditions have made 
use of the opportunities offered by the railway. 
Members of the Appalachian Club of Boston 

12 



HISTORICAL 

were the first, and several seasons were spent 
by them amongst the peaks and glaciers near 
Laggan and Field (stations on the Canadian 
Pacific Railway). In 1893 Professor Coleman 
of Toronto undertook a journey from Morley 
to the sources of the Athabasca River, in order 
to search for the two peaks Brown and Hooker, 
of which little else was known except that they 
had been discovered about sixty years pre- 
viously, and were supposed to be 16,000 and 
15,700 feet in height. 

Mr. W. D. Wilcox in the meantime had 
explored the valleys of the mountainous country 
south of the Canadian Pacific Railway as far as 
Mount Assiniboine (1894-1895), and north of 
the railway to the Saskatchewan and the Atha- 
basca (1896). His experiences have been pub- 
lished in a delightful work, " The Rockies of 
Canada." 

Most of our knowledge, therefore, up to that 
time (1897) of the mountain districts lying one 
hundred miles to the north or to the south of 
the railway, as it passes through the Rocky 
Mountains, was either knowledge gained in the 
early part of the century by traders in the 
employ of the fur-trading companies, or from 
Palliser's journals, Wilcox's book, or the reports 

13 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

of the Canadian survey by the late Dr. Dawson. 
For the most part these explorations have been 
restricted to the valleys and low passes ; very 
few attempts have been made to locate or 
explore the great snow-fields and the smTOund- 
ing peaks that form the great backbone of the 
continent. To take the Alps as an example, it 
would be a parallel case if a few parties had 
started from Geneva, explored the St. Bernard 
Pass, pushed up the Rhone Valley over the 
Furka Pass and the St. Gothard, without 
troubling themselves about either the snow- 
fields of the Oberland, or the side valleys and 
the great peaks on the main Pennine chain 
with their attendant glaciers. 

A brief record, however, of the mountaineer- 
ing expeditions that were undertaken during the 
year from 1887 to 1897 may not be out of place.^ 
From 1887 to 1892 Mr. J. J. M' Arthur climbed 
numerous peaks near Canmore, Banff, Laggan, 
and Field, the highest being Mount Stephen, 
10,428 feet. 

In 1894 Mount Aberdeen, 10,450 feet, and 
Mount Temple, 11,607 feet, were chmbed by 
Messrs. W. D. Wilcox, S. E. S. Allen, and 
L. F. Frissell. 

-1 Cf. W. D. Wilcox, ^'The Rockies of Canada," p. 301. 
14 



HISTORICAL 

In 1896 Mount Hector was ascended by 
Messrs P. S. Abbot, C. E. Fay, and C. S. 
Thompson. It was during an attempt on 
Mount Lefroy by the same party, somewhat 
later, at the beginning of August, that Mr. 
Abbot was killed, and the Canadian Rockies 
claimed their first victim to the now rapidly 
growing passion for mountaineering as a sport. 



15 



CHAPTER II 



ASCENT OF LEFROY AND VICTORIA ; AND THE 
WAPUTEHK ICE-FIELD 

Towards the end of July, 1897, a strong 
mountaineering party was assembled at Glacier 
House, in the Selkirk range, west of the Rocky 
Mountains. The party consisted of Messrs. C. 
E. Fay, A. Michael, Rev. C. L. Noyes, H. B. 
Dixon, H. C. Parker, J. R. Vanderlip, J. N. 
Collie, and Peter Sarbach (a Swiss guide). 
Several peaks in the Selkirk range had been 
ascended, but a wish to conquer the higher 
summits of the main chain drew them east- 
wards to Laggan, where they were joined by 
C. S. Thompson, one of the most enthusiastic 
of the pioneers of mountaineering amongst the 
ranges of both the Selkirks and the Rockies. 
Most of the party belonged to the Appalachian 
Club of Boston ; and it is due to members of 
this club and to other Americans from the 
States that mountaineering as a recreation was 
first undertaken amongst the Canadian Rocky 
Mountains. 

i6 



THE ASCENT OF LEFROY 



It was on August 3rd, the anniversary of 
Abbot's death, that we started from the chalet 
at Lake Louise, to cHmb Mount Lefroy. This 
chalet has been built by the Canadian Pacific 
Railway for the convenience of those who wish 
to see Lake Louise, one of the most beautiful 
mountain tarns in the world. 

As we step out of the chalet into the brilliant 
starlight, at that early hour which is necessary 
when a long day's climb is before one, it would 
be impossible to find in the Alps, or elsewhere, 
a more peaceful scene. The stars above shine 
with a clear steady light, and the entire absence 
of twinkling foreshadows fine weather. A few 
yards away lies the lake, reflecting perfectly the 
luminous snows of Mounts Lefroy and Victoria 
amongst the black shadows of the pine-trees 
and the mirrored stars. Across its placid waters 
we are carried by a rowing-boat through the 
dark chasm in the hills : the silence is unbroken ; 
one seems to be travelling through some for- 
gotten land, a land of old romance, where high 
above, perched on the almost inaccessible crags, 
is the castle of the lord of the valley, a land 
where knights in armour rescue fair ladies from 
imprisonment, and roam abroad in search of 
perilous adventures. 

17 B 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

But after disembarking in the darkness that 
heralds the dawn, one is soon disillusioned, and 
swamps, tangled thickets of alder, fallen trees, 
and huge stones dispel any poetic fancies. 
Just as the dawn was breaking the end of 
the glacier was reached. The route lay straight 
up the ice towards a great gateway of the hills 
that lies between Mounts Victoria and Lefroy. 
This narrow passage has been called "The 
Death - Trap," for during the early summer, 
and in years when much snow lies on the 
mountains, it is a dangerous place to venture 
into, on account of the avalanches that fall 
from Lefroy on one side and Victoria on the 
other. The description of the remainder of the 
expedition is given in Professor H. B. Dixon's 
words : ^ — 

"Passing the two snow couloirs which 
descend from chimneys in the north-west cliff, 
we entered the so-called * Death-Trap ' — a mde 
slope of snow leading up at an easy angle to 
Abbot Pass. As we breasted the slope we 
were met by several small erratic pieces from 
the upper rocks of Lefroy, which came skipping 
down the snow with unpleasant velocity, giving 
us an early warning of the unstable state of the 

1 ^''Alpine Journal" (Harold B. Dixon), vol. xix. p. 103. 

i8 



THE ASCENT OF LEFROY 

limestone ledges above. After five hours' 
steady going we stepped on to the narrow 
ridge which joins Lefroy with Victoria, and 
caught our first view of the precipices of 
Hungabee and Goodsie to the south. The 
aneroid gave our height as 4200 feet above 
Lake Louise, 9800 feet above sea-level. 

" From the col our route upwards was in 
plain view. The steep slope was snow- 
covered, except where the limestone ledges 
cropped out, roughly marking off the ascent into 
three sections. The slope is best seen from 
opposite on Mount Victoria. Having breakfasted, 
we roped up in three parties and struck straight 
up the snow to the first patch of rocks. The 
slope gradually steepened as we rose, but the 
snow was good, and we could kick firm steps 
in it. After a steady grind we reached the 
rocks, which proved to be both steep and rotten. 
For a few minutes we enjoyed the variation of 
wriggling our bodies over the ledges, though it 
would have been quicker to go round. The 
buttress of rock held up the snow above it at 
a more favourable angle for a little distance, but 
the slope soon became severer than before. As 
we approached the second patch of rocks great 
care became necessary. A bad slip would have 

19 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

been difficult to check, and our path now lay 
above the south-western precipices. On reaching 
the second rocks we passed up a snow couloir 
near their right extremity, and found ourselves 
on the steepest part of the face, lying at an angle 
of 60°. Above us to the right frowned the cliff 
which Abbot had tried to scale. Between us 
and that cliff the snow no longer gave a foothold. 
It loosely plastered the steep ice-slope, and the 
rocks showed in patches through the surface. 
But against the outcrop of rock, which formed 
an overhanging cliff on our left, the snow still 
clung firmly, filling the angle between rock and 
ice. We crept round a ledge of snow beneath 
the overhanging rock, and then kicked a ladder 
up the snow till the top of the cliff was gained. 
The steps held, but we had a distinctly uneasy 
feeling that we might not find them so firm on 
our return, after the sun had been on them for 
a few hours. From the top of the cliff a little 
arete of snow led upwards at a gentler slope to the 
corniced ridge of the mountain, and at 11 a.m. 
we clambered on to one of the two rocky pro- 
minences (some fifty yards apart) which form the 
highest points of Mount Lefroy. The aneroid gave 
the height as 11,600 feet above the sea, but the 
mercury barometer brought it down to 11,420 feet. 

20 



THE ASCENT OF LEFROY 



" The air was beautifully clear — for the forests 
to the west had been singularly free from fires 
during the summer. Two mushroom-like patches 
were visible on the northern horizon ; the stem 
produced by the heated column of smoke which 
flattens out as it cools. Of the mountains near 
at hand the most striking is Hungabee, which 
offers a first-rate problem to climbers. Looking 
at it from the commanding height of Lefroy, 
none of us could suggest an even probable line 
of attack. Away to the south-east the black 
precipices of Mount Assiniboine were distinctly 
visible. To the north Mount Balfour, rising 
from the great W aputekh snow-field attracted 
greater interest, for we hoped to conquer it in 
the next few days. The thought of our snow- 
ladder gradually melting in the sun cut short 
our enjoyment of the summit. 

" We descended easily to the end of the arete, 
where, planting an axe firmly in the snow, we 
paid out an extra rope (with a turn round the 
axe) attached to each man as he stepped 
cautiously down the ladder. 

" Sitting on the arete, I had leisure to study 
the broken cliff opposite, where Abbot fell, and 
to fit together the accounts of the accident with 
the configuration of the rock. The chimney 

21 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

which he climbed up is near the profile of the 
cliff. At the top of the first part of the chimney 
a snow-covered ledge bears to the left ; on this 
Professor Little stood. Abbot continued the 
climb up the chimney, now seen slightly to 
the left of the line of the lower portion. The 
chimney ends at a ledge cut off by a few feet of 
steep rock from the snow-slope above. Abbot 
must either have attempted to climb this rock 
or to work round on the ledge. Neither course 
would appear to present any difficulty to a man 
who could climb the long chimney below, had 
the rock been firm. But the limestone rock 
which crops out on this face is extremely rotten. 
I can feel no doubt that a rock gave way sud- 
denly with his weight, just as he was pulling 
himself to the top of the cliff. He had taken to 
the rocks to avoid slip-cutting in the ice. 

" From the top rocks downwards we were 
mighty polite to the snow on Mount Lefroy. 
I cannot speak for all the party, but I know 
that three men, including Sarbach, came down 
1500 feet with their faces to the mountain. A 
final glissade down the lower slope landed 
us on the col at 3 p.m. Thence a rapid descent 
of two and a half hours brought us to Lake 
Louise." 

22 



THE BOW VALLEY 

Two days later a small party, consisting of 
Fay, Michael, Collie, and Sarbach, again under 
the brilliant stars, rowed across the lake, this 
time to attack Mount Victoria. Much better 
progress was made than before, for the best 
route to take was known. Following the glacier 
up through the huge gateway between Lefroy 
and Victoria, Abbot's Pass was soon reached. 
Here, turning to the right instead of to the left, 
as had been done on the ascent of Lefroy, height 
was rapidly gained by climbing a series of small 
terraces of excessively rotten rocks. During 
occasional halts, the snow-slope of Lefroy, up 
which the larger party had so laboriously toiled 
forty-eight hours previously, could be seen, now 
converted by the two days' fine weather into 
an ice - slope, which, further off to the right, 
fell away with great steepness to the head of 
the O'Hara Valley. The long arete of Mount 
Victoria, that can be seen against the sky from 
the chalet at Lake Louise, was soon reached. 
The climbing along the arete was not difficult 
but required care, and it was only the last five 
hundred feet that were at all narrow. About 
midday, after breaking many steps in soft snow, 
the summit was finally reached — a small pinnacle 
of snow, 11,500 feet above sea-level. 

23 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

From there all sorts of signals were made to 
inform the visitors at the chalet that Mount 
Victoria had been conquered. However, it 
turned out that not only had they missed all 
the signals, but had failed even with a good 
telescope to see any one on the summit of the 
mountain. This failure on their part naturally 
suggests the extremely uncertain nature of 
danger-signals on mountains ; for, supposing 
that an accident had overtaken the party, and 
reliance been placed on the signals produced by 
the sun and an empty sardine-box as a mirror 
for conveying the message to the bottom of 
the mountain, succour would doubtless have 
been a long time in arriving. The view to the 
south and west is across a sea of jagged rock- 
peaks, the most prominent being Hungabee, 
Goodsir, and Ball, whilst further away to the 
south-east rises the black rock -pyramid of 
Assiniboine. 

On August 7th G. P. Baker joined the party, 

and with men, horses, and an outfit we made a 

start up the Bow Valley with the intention of 

climbing Mount Balfour. From the Bow Valley, 

however, Balfour is invisible ; therefore it was 

impossible to know how far up the valley it was 

necessary to go before striking into the moun- 

24 



THE BOW VALLEY 

tains. But, before telling how we entirely 
missed Mount Balfour and climbed Mount 
Gordon instead, the experiences of our first 
afternoon in a Canadian forest with horses are 
worth narrating. As one looks back one 
blushes for the utter incompetence shown. But 
in those days we were unacquainted with 
many mysterious things that afterwards be- 
came obvious ; in those days we were " raw 
hands." 

Peyto (our head-man), with the rest of the 
men and most of the ponies, had started early 
in the morning, and had gone ahead up what 
was, for convenience of speech, called " the 
trail." Later in the day we came down to 
Laggan from the chalet with the remainder of 
the baggage, finding three ponies that Peyto 
had left. If it had not been for the help of a 
man at Laggan railway station we could never 
have satisfactorily tied on all the impedimenta 
that we wished to take with us. To pack an 
Indian pony and finish off all neatly with a 
good tight diamond hitch is an accomplishment 
possessed by few ; it is only after long experience 
that the art is acquired. Although one thinks 
that the rope has been thrown, twisted, and 
looped properly, the moment the tightening-up 

25 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



process begins the knots carefully undo them- 
selves, and another trial is necessary. 

The ponies having been packed a start was 
made, and soon we were in the midst of miles 
of fallen timber that lay heaped in every direc- 
tion. In one place we could count more than 
a dozen trees piled like spillikins one above the 
other. Peyto had carefully " blazed " the trail, 
and, as the party was large, comparatively rapid 
progress was made, for, should one of us miss 
the way, another at once found it. But it 
necessitated an enormous amount of jumping 
for both the over-laden ponies and ourselves. 
Gradually we worked ourselves free from this 
belt of fallen timber, getting into more open 
ground ; but it was only a change of troubles, 
for now endless swamps or " muskegs " filled 
the flat open spaces of the valley. Here the 
" blazes " stopped, and, following some upright 
sticks of wood (that we afterwards found had to 
do with the railway survey up the valley), the 
tracks of the other animals were soon missed, 
and we got lost, floundering about help- 
lessly trying to find a way through. Several 
times the luckless ponies, dead tired and over- 
laden, had sunk up to their bellies in the soft 

marshy ground, but with much kicking and 

26 



THE BOW VALLEY 



plunging had just managed to get out again. At 
last the sun went down, then the daylight dis- 
appeared, and finally the moon came out, and 
the whole party and the horses were still in that 
muskeg. 

So an attempt was made to get to the forest 
at the side of the valley, but one of the ponies 
at last got so deep into a hole that only with 
difficulty was he prevented from vanishing alto- 
gether. The situation was apparently quite 
hopeless. The pack with difficulty was rescued 
from his back by cutting the ropes ; then, by the 
help of an Alpine rope and much pulling, finally 
he also was rescued. Professor Fay in the 
meantime had pushed on up the valley, and 
reached the camp at about eleven o'clock. Just 
when we thought we should have to sit in the 
water all night we were found by Peyto and his 
dog. The ponies had to be left where they were 
for the night with the dog to take care of them ; 
and we, under Peyto's guidance, wading through 
everjrthing, got safely into camp a little after 
midnight. 

On the morrow the ponies and baggage were 
fetched. We also had a long discussion whether 
we should try and find Mount Balfour at the 

head of the Upper, or the Lower, Bow Lake. 

27 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

We decided in the end for the Upper Bow 
Lake, and, as so often is the case when it is 
merely a toss-up, the decision was WTong. Next 
evening found us camped by the Upper Bow 
Lake in a beautiful open country, and sur- 
rounded by fine hills and glaciers. Our attempt 
to ascend Mount Balfour from this camp, al- 
though a failure, furnished a most delightful 
day — at least up to the time when Thompson 
sought to investigate the lower layers of the 
ice-sheet that covers Mount Gordon, by falHng 
head-first down a deep crevasse. Early in the 
expedition great battle was done with the ice- 
fall that descends from the higher snow-fields 
towards the Upper Bow Lake. One party with 
fine, if unnecessary, courage, cut its way through 
the centre of the ice-fall, whilst the other, under 
the guidance of Sarbach, basely refused the en- 
counter and fled along sideways to where they 
could ignominiously skirt round the end and, 
with the minimum expenditure of energy, flank 
the foe. Coming out on to this upper snow- 
field, a charming snow- clad peak was seen to 
the south, apparently not diflicult of ascent ; 
obviously Mount Balfour ! Accordingly ofl" 
the whole party started across the nearly level 

snows for the lower slopes of the mountain. 

28 



THE WAPUTEHK SNOW-FIELD 

The summit was reached by climbing up the 
eastern arete ; but alas ! four miles away to 
the south was the real Mount Balfour, and 
between lay a deep gulf. Still it had been a 
most delightful climb over a hitherto untrodden 
piece of ice-field ; and certainly no one had 
been to the summit of Mount Gordon before. 
The height was 10,600 feet. As usual, in every 
direction lay a perfect sea of snow-clad peaks, 
with hardly a name to any of them. Professor 
Fay, however, suggested that there was a 
mountain, supposed to be very high and named 
Murchison, somewhere towards the north. It 
had been seen by Dr. Hector forty years before. 
So a splendid pyramid-shaped peak, obviously 
higher than the rest, was picked out, and it was 
concluded that this was Mount Murchison. 
More to the west a flatter-topped mountain, 
somewhat nearer, was given the name Mount 
Mummery. 

Some time was spent on the top, but, as 

there was another summit about a third of a 

mile to the westward, several of the party 

started off for it. It was dome-shaped and 

covered with snow, the first peak consisting of 

an out-crop of limestone rocks. It was near 

the top of the second peak that Thompson very 

29 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

nearly ended his mountaineering experiences. 
Not far from this second summit a huge crevasse 
partially covered with snow had to be crossed. 
All the party had passed over but Thompson, 
who unfortunately broke through and at once 
disappeared headlong into the great crack that 
ran perpendicularly down into the depths of 
the glacier. Those of the party who were 
stiU on the first peak saw their friends 
gesticulating in the far distance, but did not 
take much notice until Sarbach drew their 
attention to the fact that there were only four 
people instead of five to be seen : some one 
therefore, must have fallen down a crevasse. 
A race across the almost level snow then took 
place, Sarbach being easily first. Although 
Thompson was too far down to be seen, yet 
he could be heard calling for help and saying 
that, although he was not hurt, he would be 
extremely grateful to us if we would make 
haste and extricate him from the awkward 
position he was in, for he could not move and 
was almost upside down, jammed between the 
two opposing sides of the crevasse. 

It was obvious that every second was of 
importance ; a stirrup was made in a rope, and 
CoUie, being the lightest member of the party — 

30 



THE ASCENT OF GORDON 

and, withal, unmarried — was told to put his foot 
into it, whilst he was also carefully roped round 
the waist as well. Then he was pushed over the 
edge of the abyss, and swung in mid-air. To 
quote his description : "I was then lowered into 
the gaping hole. On one side the ice fell sheer, 
on the other it was rather undercut, but again 
bulged outwards about eighteen feet below the 
surface, making the crevasse at that point not 
much more than two feet wide. Then it 
widened again, and went down into dim twi- 
hght. It was not till I had descended sixty 
feet, almost the whole available length of an 
eighty foot rope, that at last I became tightly 
wedged between the two walls of the crevasse, 
and was absolutely incapable of moving my 
body. My feet were close to Thompson's, but 
his head was further away, and about three feet 
lower than his heels. Face downwards, and 
covered with fallen snow, he could not see me. 
But, after he had explained that it was entirely 
his own fault that he was there, I told him 
we would have him out in no time. At the 
moment I must say I hardly expected to be 
able to accomplish anything. For, jammed 
between two slippery walls of ice, and only 
able to move my arms, cudgel my brains as I 

31 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

would, I could not think what was to be done. 
I shouted for another rope. When it came 
down I managed to throw one end to Thomp- 
son's left hand, which was waved about, till he 
caught it. But, when pulled, it merely dragged 
out of his hand. Then with some difficulty I 
managed to tie a noose on the rope by putting 
both my hands above my head. With this I 
lassoed that poor pathetic arm which was the 
only part of Thompson that could be seen. 
Then came the tug-of-war. If he refused to 
move, I could do nothing more to help him ; 
moreover I was afraid that at any moment he 
might faint. If that had occurred I do not 
believe he could have been got out at all, for 
the force of the fall had jammed him further 
down than it was possible to follow. Slowly 
the rope tightened, as it was cautiously pulled 
by those above. I could hear my heart thump- 
ing in the ghastly stillness of the place, but at 
last Thompson began to shift, and after some 
short time he was pulled into an upright posi- 
tion by my side. To get a rope round his body 
was of course hopeless. Partly by wriggling 
and pulling on my own rope I so shifted that 
by straining one arm over my head I could get 
my two hands together, and then tied the best 

32 



THE ASCENT OF GORDON 

and tightest jamming knot I could think of 
round his arm, just above the elbow. A shout 
to the rest of the party, and Thompson went 
rapidly upwards till he disappeared round the 
bulge of ice forty feet or more above. I can 
well remember the feehng of dread that came 
over me lest the rope should slip or his arm 
give way under the strain, and he should come 
thundering down on the top of me ; but he got 
out all right, and a moment later I followed. 
Most marvellously no bones had been broken, but 
how any one could have fallen as he did without 
being instantaneously killed will always remain 
a mystery. He must have partially jammed 
some considerable distance higher up than the 
point where 1 found him, for he had a riick-sack 
on his back, and this perhaps acted as a brake, 
as the walls of the crevasse closed in lower 
down. We were both of us nearly frozen and 
wet to the skin, for ice-cold water was slowly 
dripping the whole time on to us ; and in 
my desire to be as Uttle encumbered as possible, 
I had gone down into the crevasse very scantily 
clad in a flannel shirt and knickerbockers." 

A rapid descent to the head of the ice-fall 
quickly restored circulation, and that night over 
the camp fire the whole experience was gone 

33 c 



CLIMBS AND EXPLOKATION 



over again, Thompson emphatically giving it as 
his opinion that, whatever scientific exploration 
or observation in future might be necessary on 
the summits of the Rocky Mountains, investiga- 
tions made alone, sixty feet below the surface 
of the ice, in an inverted position, were extremely 
dangerous and even unworthy of record. 

Next day the party returned to the lower 
Bow Lake. Here Dixon left for Banff and the 
British Association meeting at Toronto, Sarbach 
remaining with Baker and Collie. 

An unsuccessful attempt to climb Mount 
Balfour in unsatisfactory weather was made up 
the glacier that flows towards the lower Bow 
Lake, the party returning by a new route past 
two exquisitely beautiful mountain tarns, one, 
the highest, being the colour of turquoise, the 
lower being sapphire blue. 

After this the party went back to Banff, and 
it was not till the next year, 1898, that Messrs. 
Thompson, Noyes, and G. M. Weed succeeded 
in climbing Mount Balfour, the highest peak in 
the Waputehk district of the Rocky Mountains. 
The account of the ascent is delightfully written 
by the Rev. Charles L. Noyes in " Appalachia," 
vol. ix.. No. 1, p. 29 :— 

" By rising at three we had time to prepare 
34 



THE ASCENT OF BALFOUR 



and eat a comfortable breakfast, and get off by- 
four. A diagonal course, stabbing up over the 
ridge intervening between the bottom of the 
Lower Bow Lake and the outlet of Margaret 
brought us to that lake by the easiest route. 

" The sun had not yet touched its waters into 
beauty, and they lay a cold sombre blue. It 
may have been six o'clock when we were climb- 
ing the screes at the head of the lake, and after 
seven, when, by the one rock ladder we scaled 
the wall above, and came over the outer rim 
of Lake Turquoise — * a joy for ever.' It was 
not far from eight when we stopped for food at 
the foot of the glacier above. Mr. Nichols had 
left us at Turquoise. He was feeling the effects 
of a blow on the spine, got in a fall on a slippery 
rock whilst bathing in Lake Katherine. It did 
not seem to him wise to risk the strain of a 
longer climb ; and there was so much to charm 
and occupy in the beauties of Turquoise Lake 
and its setting that he proposed to spend the 
day about there, and bade us God-speed, with 
a solemn injunction that we should meet him 
at six o'clock above the verge of the lake to go 
down the ladder together. The passage of the 
glacier was this year a delicate operation, taking 
some ingenious warping among crevasses, and 

35 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

light stepping over bridges, which needed but to 
melt a little more to almost cut off access to the 
neve above. This gained, full in view beyond 
it, broadside to us, rose the magnificent mass of 
Balfour. The difficulties of approach, which we 
had foreseen looking down from Vulture Col, by- 
no means vanished. The final ridge, however, 
looked hopeful, promising us, if once on it, a 
clear way to the summit ; but how to reach the 
ridge ? Well to the south was the most en- 
couraging route in view. Rising almost to the 
crest was a tongue of snow, but it was suspi- 
ciously gashed, and once upon the ridge, there 
was no surety that the way would not be barred 
by cornices or precipitous breaks. The prospect 
was too doubtful to waste time in considering, 
and without slackening our steps we pressed on 
over the neve to the gateway at the south, which 
would let us through to the western side, where 
we had reason to hope we might find more level 
and stable snow, giving access to the final ridge. 
It was eleven o'clock when we broke over the 
divide, and the change of worlds of vision, always 
thrilling in such a crossing, was grandly so in 
this case. To the south rose, near and imposing, 
Niles and Daly, like mammoth walruses, lifting 
their black heads above the ice, and thrusting 

36 



THE ASCENT OF BALFOUR 

their great snouts towards us ; between them 
the neve sloped down to some glaciers, and by 
them to the west rolled a vast snow-field toward 
the ravine of the Wapta, that enormous rent 
between the mountains, gathering into its bosom 
the immense volume of melted snow poured 
down from all the neves streaming off the western 
side of Balfour and Gordon, ColHe, and Habel, 
to the north ; and over beyond from the hither 
slopes of another system of mountains that filled 
the prospect to the horizon west and south. For 
all this we hardly had eyes at first ; they were 
turned instantly toward our goal; and then 
they ran over a clear reach of snow leading to a 
ridge curving off from the main arete to the left, 
above which, fore-shortened, could be seen the 
summit. As it seemed readily attainable, only 
the nonchalance of our tones betrayed our excite- 
ment as we remarked, * We're going to make it ! ' 
We did make it, but it took four hours. The 
offshoot ridge once gained, there was along its 
curve an even, almost level, way to the backbone 
of the mountain. On this main arete there was 
more difficulty ; a V-shaped cleft promised to 
block the passage altogether, but we circum- 
vented it by stabbing down to the screes and 
snow below, and diagonally up again, over un- 

37 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

stable and tricky footing, and with unreliable 
hand-holds on friable rock, all done without slip 
or danger, up to a depression in the ridge, where 
greeted us a reviving view Hector-ward, and a 
pool of water made by the snow-shelf on the 
eastern side, melting against the warm rocks. 
This invited to a final lunch, refreshed by which 
we rose for our last hour's climb to a height 
much greater than Balfour — the summit of our 
summer's adventure and success. 

" Any one who has walked the ridge of the 
Presidential Range will know the thriUing sensa- 
tion of such a passage, as though one were moving 
on the backbone of the world. Suppose it is 
really a bit of the coping of the continent, lifted 
toward eleven thousand feet, thinned down till 
it is no more than the fine edge of a wedge 
protruding through slopes of snow that cling to 
its sides high as the steepness will allow, flanked 
beyond stupendous gorges on either hand by 
a wilderness of mountains reaching everywhere 
to the sky-line, rising in great steps along an 
untrodden way to an untouched peak — that is 
what the final climb in the capture of Balfour 
meant to us." 



38 



CHAPTER III 

IN SEARCH OF MOUNT MURCHISON 

It was after the accident to Thompson, and 
the unsuccessful attempt on Mount Balfour, 
that Baker and Collie, still having four or five 
weeks to spare, were so fired with enthusiasm 
over the high rock -peak they had seen to the 
north-west from the summit of Gordon, that 
although they had intended going southward 
to visit Mount Assiniboine, they changed their 
plans and decided to go north instead. 

An "outfit" was therefore hired from T. 
Wilson, of Banff, the party consisting of Baker, 
Collie, and Sarbach, together with W. Peyto, 
head-man, L. Richardson, packer, and C. Black, 
cook. Although, several years before, Wilson 
had been through this country north of the 
Waputehk snow-fields, yet he did not remember 
ever having seen a very high peak about the 
spot where the so-called Mount Murchison had 
been seen from Mount Gordon. This, however, 
was not taken as an indication that we had been 
mistaken in our estimate of its size, for from 

39 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the tops only of mountains, as a rule, can any 
accurate ideas concerning their relative heights 
be easily obtained. 

On August 17th the party again started 
from Laggan up the Bow Valley. The lower 
portion was as bad as ever, for in forests that 
have been burnt, after a good many years the 
roots of the blackened and still standing trunks 
become rotten; thus every fresh gale brings 
down large numbers, adding to the almost in- 
extricable tangle below. In this lower part of 
the Bow VaUey it is quite possible to walk 
for more than a mile along the fallen stems, 
never being nearer than two feet, and some- 
times finding oneself as high as ten feet, or 
more, from the ground. Fortunately since 
1900 a thoroughly good trail has been cut 
through this part of the vaUey by the Canadian 
Pacific Railway. 

The first day up the Bow Valley was ex- 
cessively hot ; mosquitoes swarmed in countless 
thousands, making life miserable, and our 
tempers suffered in consequence. It was early 
in the afternoon when Peyto announced that 
we should camp : to us this seemed unnecessary, 
so we told him so, but without any effect. 

Later, after dinner, he unburdened his mind, 

40 



IN SEARCH OF MOUNT MURCHISON 

saying that he was there to look after the horses 
and should camp where he considered best ; 
we might know, or might think we knew, how 
far a "cayoose" (Indian pony) could go, but 
he was not going to have sore backs or lame 
horses in his outfit. Later, when they were 
hardened and less heavily laden, we should 
be able to put in longer days. Things were 
beginning to get strained ; and the mosquitoes 
made matters worse : still, we were out for a 
month, and it was no use quarrelling on the 
first day. Accordingly we acquiesced, coming 
to the conclusion that the ways of the "wild 
west" needed a great deal of learning. That 
Peyto was right was abundantly proved in the 
sequel ; for, owing to the excessively hot 
weather, we soon had more than one pony with 
a sore back and ill. This remedied itself, how- 
ever; for later the weather got cooler and the 
packs lighter. Moreover, it was no vain boast 
of Peyto's that he was there to look after the 
horses ; many a time after arriving in camp 
after a long day's journey, when something to 
eat and drink was one's first thought, Peyto 
could be seen driving the sore-backed ponies 
down to the stream where he carefully washed 
them and smeared the raw places with bacon- 

41 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

grease to keep off the flies. He also kept his 
word about long days, and more than once we 
were only too glad when, late in the evening, 
he would finally tie up his black mare, Pet, 
and begin to unpack. 

On the third day out from Laggan the head 
of the Bow Valley was reached, where a pass, 
the Bow Pass, leads over into Bear Creek, or 
the Little Fork of the Saskatchewan. This 
pass is similar to many in the Rocky Moun- 
tains ; the woods — which, lower down in the 
valley, are usually so thick that it is impossible 
to see far ahead, and, owing to fallen trees, 
make it most difficult to get horses along — on 
the higher ground open out ; and wide stretches 
of grass alternate with groves of pine-trees that 
act as excellent shelter for tents. Often 
small lakes are found as well, and the views of 
snow-clad peaks, glaciers, lakes, and forests 
make most beautiful pictures. 

The scenery at the head of the Bow VaUey, 
surrounding the upper Bow Lake, is grand, and 
will not disappoint any one who should make 
the journey there. The lake is also full of 
trout ; some weighing as much as thirty pounds, 
or more, have been caught. A day was spent 
here for two reasons ; first, the horses needed a 

42 




Waterfowl Lake 



IN SEARCH OF MOUNT MURCHISON 

rest ; secondly, Baker wished to pick up his 
points in a plane-table survey that had been 
started by Mr. Herschel C. Parker, of Brooklyn, 
N.Y., during the trip a week before when 
Mount Gordon was climbed. Mr. Parker had 
taken as his base line the distance between two 
stations in the Bow Valley that had been 
trigonometrically determined by the Canadian 
Government for their photographic survey of 
the district. These two points were 6*365 
miles apart. One, south of Mount Hector and 
marked on the Government survey sheet as 
Station No. 1, 9830 feet, the other a peak lying 
on the opposite side of the valley, north of the 
Lower Bow Lake, marked Station No. 2, 9178 
feet. When Mr. Parker returned to the States 
he kindly handed over his map to Baker to 
continue it towards the north. 

On August 20th a rock and snow peak south- 
west of the Bow Pass was climbed (height 9000 
feet), from which a splendid view to the north 
down Bear Creek, and to the south down the 
Bow Valley, was obtained ; thus enabling Baker 
to add many new points to his survey. A fine 
specimen of a trilobite was also found, but 
unfortunately left on the summit. 

The height of the Bow Pass is 6700 feet. 
43 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

On the north side the trail descends sharply for 
about a thousand feet to the head of Bear Creek 
Valley, down which flows one of the branches 
of the Saskatchewan, that has its source in a 
large glacier above Peyto Lake. 

Half-way down the valley lies another lake 
on the western side, and then two more that 
occupy the bottom of the valley ; these were 
named Waterfowl Lakes. 

The western side of Bear Creek all the way 
down to the main Saskatchewan is exceptionally 
grand, a series of rocky escarpments rising sheer 
from the bottom of the valley for four to five 
thousand feet, and throwing gloomy shadows 
across the forest-clad slopes ; whilst high over- 
head, far above the parallel terraces of the 
precipices and the black and torn ridges of the 
mountains, the white clouds drift slowly by — 
or, what is more often the case, the valley is 
shrouded over with mist; the tops of the 
mountains are far above out of sight, and only 
the lower slopes are visible. A good deal of 
the bad weather that surrounds Bear Creek may 
possibly be due to its proximity to the western 
side of the mountains, and the huge gap made 
in the range by the Blaeberry Creek : the clouds 
can often be seen driving through this gateway 

44 



IN SEARCH OF MOUNT MURCHISON 



from the Columbia to catch on the long row of 
peaks that overshadow Bear Creek on the west, 
with the result that frequent rain and gloom are 
the portion of this most striking valley of the 
Canadian Rockies. 

Near the Waterfowl Lakes a most curious 
contrast of colours was noticed in a wood that 
had been burnt not many years before. The 
gaunt black stems of the trees formed a weird 
but fitting background for the mass of brilliant 
golden-yellow daisies that were in full bloom 
amongst the stones at their feet. This blaze of 
golden-orange against satin-black tree trunks, 
with a bright blue sky overhead, formed a har- 
mony of colours but rarely seen in a landscape. 

It was not till the 23rd, after a long day 
through the splendid forests covering the lower 
part of Bear Creek valley, that the main Saskat- 
chewan was reached. For some time past the 
weather had been exceedingly hot ; consequently 
the rivers were in full flood from the melting 
snows and ice, and it was with some trepidation 
that, on the morrow, we watched Peyto on his 
mare trying to ford the foaming torrent of Bear 
Creek — first at one place and then at another. 
This crossing is one of the worst in the moun- 
tains, not on account of its depth, but because of 

45 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the terribly bad bottom of boulders and large 
stones, and the swiftness of the current. Indian 
ponies, as a rule, are wonderfully clever at this 
kind of work, and may usually be left to find 
their own way across mountain torrents. This, 
however, one does not find out all at once ; and, 
in the meantime, to see all one's baggage and 
provisions for the trip entirely at the mercy of 
a self-willed " cayoose," who is expected to 
follow his leader over a difficult and dangerous 
crossing, is, to say the least of it, anxious work. 

When the river is full the ford is distinctly 
a dangerous one, for, should a horse stumble 
and fall, he would have but little chance of 
escaping the numerous rapids and deep pools 
that are below. Some of the horses are much 
more skilful at the work than others ; and one, 
especially, that Collie usually rode — an old grey, 
a bit gone at the knees, but perfectly sure- 
footed—was amongst the best in the outfit. 
While threading the intricacies of the pine- 
woods, he would never so much as brush his 
rider's legs against the stems of the trees ; and 
it was wonderful to see how he could remember 
a bad piece of muskeg that weeks before, on 
the outward journey, he might have got into. 

When it was necessary he would carry as heavy 

+6 



IN SEARCH OF MOUNT MURCHISON 

a pack as any of the other ponies. Wilson, 
who owned him, told us that this old grey in 
his younger days had often done his hundred 
miles in the twenty-four hours over the prairie. 

Bear Creek safely crossed, we pushed on up 
the main valley of the Saskatchewan to the west- 
ward. On the 25th we climbed a peak 10,700 
feet high, which was named after our guide, 
Sarbach. The first thousand feet was through 
primeval forest ; then up a steep gully in a lime- 
stone escarpment, and over steep screes to the 
foot of the final peak. The mountain, like so 
many others in this district, is a mass of crumb- 
ling rock ; everything is loose, and the greatest 
care is required in order to avoid launching tons 
of debris on one's companions, should they be 
below. The actual summit ridge of Sarbach is, 
however, in somewhat better condition, consist- 
ing of a dark and harder limestone rock, and 
being very narrow and precipitous on both 
sides. 

Unfortunately for us the clouds were drift- 
ing over the peaks nearly the whole day, and 
anything over 11,000 feet was hidden : con- 
sequently we could only guess which was the 
base of the peak we were in search of. To the 
north-west there was a good view of the Lyell 

47 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

ice-field, first discovered by Dr. Hector, with a 
snow and a rock peak at its head. To the right 
of the rock peak there appeared to be an excel- 
lent snow-pass from the snow-field on the south 
to a valley that went eastwards towards the 
head-waters of the Saskatchewan. To the west- 
ward a great glacier could be seen winding down 
through the hills towards us ; and we concluded 
that the peak we were in search of was probably 
near to this glacier, in which case we could 
explore both together. Below stretched the 
valley of the Saskatchewan, filled to the foot of 
the mountains on either side with a mass of 
stones, shingle flats, and sand bars, whilst the 
river itself made tangled courses through all this 
debris. These shingle " wash-outs " are common 
amongst the Rocky Mountains, not only at the 
head-waters of the Saskatchewan, but, as we 
found later, of the Athabasca and the Bush 
rivers as well. 

On the morrow Peak Sarbach was left behind 
us, and, turning almost due south, the valley 
was foUowed till a wooded island lying in the 
middle of the " wash-out " was reached. On the 
western side of the island the river has cut its 
way through a rocky canyon ; on the eastern 

side a particularly bad muskeg barred the way. 

48 




The Middle Fork of the Saskatchewan 



MOUNT FORBES 



We were therefore compelled to force our way 
through the thick timber of the island knoll, and 
so to the other side ; consequently it was not till 
late that a camping-place was found some dis- 
tance further up the shingle flat. To our delight, 
however, the big peak we were in search of 
could be seen almost opposite across the valley. 
Although at that time we were under the im- 
pression that it was Mount Murchison, we after- 
wards discovered, on our return to England, 
from Palliser's journals, that this peak was in 
reality Mount Forbes, and not Murchison. 

The weather, that had been almost perfect 
since the 9th, now began to get steadily worse, 
snow showers falling and powdering the tre- 
mendous precipices of our mountain — one of the 
finest rock peaks amongst the Rockies. It is 
a combination of the Weisshorn and the Dent 
Blanche, and, as it rises straight from its base, 
which is only 4600 feet above sea-level, the 
precipices on its eastern face are exceptionally 
grand. In the condition it was then in it 
would have been foUy to attempt an ascent. 
As far as could be seen the only feasible route 
to the top lay up the south-western ridge to a 
very sharp arete with broken rock-towers, whilst 
just below the pointed snow summit the arete 

49 D 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

was heavily snow-corniced ; and it did not look 
as if the last bit of climbing would be either safe 
or easy.^ 

It was particularly disappointing that on the 
very day that the mountain had at last been 
found snow showers, the first for weeks, should 
spoil the chance of a successful assault. 

At the head of the shingle flat, by the side of 
which the camp had been made, there were two 
valleys ; one on the north side coming from 
under Forbes, and the other more to the south, 
that ran westward towards the great glacier that 
had been seen from the summit of Sarbach. 

An ascent was made on the 28th up the ridge 
that divided these two valleys. The height 
reached, after a most tiring chmb through the 
dense pine woods, was only 8000 feet, but from 
it a magnificent view of the great peak — Mount 
Forbes — across the valley to the north was 
obtained. From this altitude the mountain 
was most imposing, and its south ridge was seen 
far more advantageously than from below ; 
moreover, it seemed more certain than ever 
that there was nothing to stop us up to the 
final arete. 

Whilst waiting for fine weather and for the 

1 Mount Forbes was climbed by this arete in 1902. See p. 277. 

50 



MOUNT FRESHFIELD 



snow to clear off the precipices and ridges of 
the mountain a visit was planned to the great 
glacier up the other valley. So a couple of 
ponies were laden with food and blankets, and 
taken as far up the valley as possible, a camp 
being finally made on the north side of the 
glacier. 

The next day was gloriously fine, but it was 
late before we started, and before the afternoon 
the penalty had to be paid. The glacier, which 
is remarkably free from crevasses, was followed. 
As the sun rose higher a vast ice-field was 
reached. Before us rose three shapely peaks ; 
the one nearest to us seemed the highest. 
During the time spent over breakfast the best 
route to its summit was discussed. On its 
north-eastern face this peak is precipitous down 
to the glacier, but on the south-eastern side a 
ridge descended to a glacier whose level was 
about 500 feet above the ice-field we were on. 
To reach this upper glacier we should have to 
ascend a very broken ice-fall ; but it was 
finally decided that it was not safe to attempt 
it, and eventually the steep rock precipice to 
the north of the ice-fall was climbed instead. 
The glacier above was crevassed, and some time 
was taken in finding a way through, and also 

51 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



in cutting a way up an ice-slope before the ridge 
that led to the summit was finally reached. 

The day was perfect. In every direction 
except to the west the mountain-land stretched 
away into the far distance. Consequently Baker 
at once began his plane-table survey. Just to 
the south were two mountains — the nearer one 
a rock peak, the farther one covered with snow. 
The peak we were on was christened Mount 
Freshfield, whilst the other two were named 
Mount Pilkington and Mount Walker. This 
method of nomenclature, namely, calling peaks 
after individuals, has been in vogue since the 
early days of discovery in the Rocky Mountains. 
As there are no Indian names at present, and, 
so far as one can find out, there never have 
been — for the country has never been inhabited 
— the custom is justifiable, as serving in many 
cases to perpetuate the connection of indivi- 
duals with the country. Mount Hector, Mount 
Lefroy, and several others may be cited as 
instances. 

During the day we were on Mount Fresh- 
field Baker was the only energetic member of 
the party. Sarbach, who had been carrying 
Baker's heavy photographic apparatus, went to 
sleep in the sunshine — presumably as a protest ; 

52 



MOUNT FRESHFIELD 



for during our ascent of the rocks below, when 
Colhe had suggested that the party should move 
a little faster, he had called attention to the 
camera, and was heard to mutter something 
that sounded like ** Furchtbar schwer und ganz 
gefahrlich." As both Sarbach and Baker seemed 
to be enjoying themselves, Collie basely broached 
the idea that under the circumstances any one 
could climb the peak, as it looked moderately 
easy, but that plane-tabling and map-making 
were much more difficult and useful ; it there- 
fore behoved Baker to take extraordinary care 
over the work he was engaged upon, which was 
of the greatest importance ; moreover, that it 
was late, and that, as the men and ponies had 
returned to the lower camp, should the ascent 
be persisted on there was little doubt that not 
only would the party not be home to dinner, 
but it would in all probability spend the night 
on the glacier as well. Baker fell in with the 
idea, and all intentions of climbing farther 
were abandoned, much to Sarbach's disgust 
when he awoke. 

Whilst the interesting operation of surveying 
the country was being proceeded with by Baker, 
CoUie did not waste his time, but went round a 
rock rib and across some snow to find out what 
the view to the north was like. 

S3 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

It is curious how small things often directly 
determine the course of future events. The 
view that could be seen far away to the north 
was the means of bringing Collie out again in 
1898, with another party, to the Canadian 
Rockies. Far away — perhaps thirty miles to 
the north-west — a magnificent snow-covered 
mountain was to be seen, its western face being 
a precipice ; from the way it towered above its 
neighbours it seemed to be excessively high. 
Although the great peak, Mount Forbes, from 
this point also overtopped all the surrounding 
peaks by many hundreds of feet, yet this other 
giant far away to the north-west was of much 
greater interest, for there were only two peaks 
of that size, and so far north, marked on the 
maps. These were Brown and Hooker, reputed 
to be 16,000 and 15,700 feet high. 

When Sarbach woke up from his sleep he 
was scandalised to find that no attempt was to 
be made on the peak, but it was now too late 
to think of climbing farther ; so, having packed 
all our baggage, we proceeded down the moun- 
tain, finding an easier descent through the rock- 
wall on to the ice-field below. On the lower 
part of the Freshfield glacier were a series of 
large blocks of stone, some even as much as 

54 




The Freshfield Glacier (Looking South) 



THE FRESHFIELD GLACIER 

fifteen to twenty feet cubed. It is a curious 
fact that in 1860 Hector, who probably was the 
only other white man that had ever visited this 
glacier, noticed the same thing. He says, " We 
ascended over the moraines, and had a slippery 
climb for a long way to reach the surface of the 
ice, and then found that it was a more narrow 
but longer glacier than the one I visited the 
previous summer (1858).^ The upper part of 
the valley which it occupies expands consider- 
ably, and is bounded to the west by a row of 
high conical peaks that are completely snow- 
clad. We walked over the surface of the ice 
for four miles, and did not meet with many 
great fissures. Its surface was remarkably pure 
and clear from detritus, but a row of large 
angular blocks followed nearly down its centre. 
Its length I estimated at seven miles, and its 
width at one and a half to two miles." The in- 
teresting question arises. Can these be the same 
blocks ? Hector may have seen them some 
distance up, as he states he went three to four 
miles over the ice ; we noticed them within a 
mile of the snout of the glacier, and in 1902 when 
the glacier was again visited (p. 264) they did not 
seem to have moved much. Still three to four 

1 The Lyell glacier. 

55 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

miles in thirty-eight years is slow progress. 
We also noticed that the snout of the glacier 
was advancing and ploughing up the debris 
before it. 

After the sun had set we emerged from the 
forest into the shingle flat within a quarter of 
a mile of our camp, but on the wrong side of 
the torrent. To cross it without the help of 
horses seemed impossible, as, swollen with the 
melting ice and snows of the glacier during the 
day, it was rushing down rapidly over its bed 
of stones and boulders. A fire was therefore 
lit, in order to attract the attention of those 
in camp ; but, as the horses were more than a 
mile down the valley feeding, it was a con- 
siderable time before they arrived. In the 
meantime Collie, growing impatient, had with 
the help of a long and stout pole managed to 
ford the stream some distance further down. 

On the next day (September 1) we started up 
the valley that came down from Mount Forbes, 
taking the men and a pony with us. At first 
some difficulty was experienced in making a 
way through the thick woods, past a rocky 
canyon ; but ultimately a camp was made 
almost at the foot of the mountain, just by the 
mouth of a small stream that joined the larger 

56 



MOUNT FORBES 

one. The weather was wretched ; it rained 
most of the night, but next morning, in the 
hopes that it might clear, Collie and Sarbach 
pushed up almost to the limit of the trees on 
the slopes of the mountain, but they were both 
soon soaked to the skin from the dripping 
undergrowth, and heavy snow showers and rain 
finally drove them back down the valley to 
the lower camp on the desolate shingle-flat. 

The weather went from bad to worse, and 
it was nearly time to be thinking of the return 
journey. Moreover, at the beginning of 
September, heavy falls of snow often occur 
before the Indian summer sets in, and none 
of us were anxious to be snowed up amongst 
such inhospitable wilds for the best part of a 
week, so far from provisions and civilisation. 

Therefore on September 3rd the camp was 
packed up, and, saying good-bye to our 
mountain — or at least to as much of it as we 
could see — we made our way south over the 
summit of the Howse Pass. Who it was that 
this pass is named after does not seem clear. 
It is mentioned in Palliser's journals as " Howe's 
Pass, a route that had at one time been used 
by the North- Western Fur Company, for com- 
municating with their posts on the Pacific." 

57 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



David Thompson certainly discovered it in 
1807 ; and it was visited in midwinter, 1811, 
by Alexander Henry. Possibly the name of 
the pass has come from one Jaspar Hawes 
(spelt also by Thompson in his journals as 
Hawse, Howse, and Howes) who was for many 
years in charge of the Rocky Mountain, or 
Jaspar, House on the Athabasca. It was on 
February 9th, 1811, that Henry visited the 
Howse Pass from the east side. He describes 
the waters that run westward as only divided 
from those that feed the Saskatchewan by a 
small ridge. He also noticed that the pines 
were ^ " surprisingly loaded with caps of snow " ; 
he says, " I measured one — it was an epinette 
hlanche about twelve feet high, upon the top 
of which lay a cap of snow thirty-six feet in 
circumference at the base, and six feet in 
diameter in the centre ; between this cap of 
snow and the snow on the ground was a dis- 
tance of two feet. It was elegantly shaped in the 
form of an inverted bowl, as smooth as if done 
by art. I observed many others, which I sup- 
pose were nearly of the same size, but did not 
stop to measure them." He further observes 

1 The Manuscript Journals of Alexander Henry and of David 
Thompson." Edited by Elliott Coues. Vol. ii. p. 698. 

58 



THE HOWSE PASS 

that this loading of the trees with snow was 
most singular; for "it was evident, from the 
loose state in which the piles of snow lay upon 
the pines, that the wind never blows here in 
winter with any violence, though only two hours' 
walk down the Saskatchewan, where gales are 
incessant, no snow is to be seen on the pines." 

In some respects the Howse Pass is peculiar, 
for it is only about 4800 feet above sea-level, and, 
again, although it is surrounded on all sides by 
high mountains, yet the ascent to it from the 
eastern side is very gradual indeed. The mouth 
of Bear Creek, nearly twenty miles down the 
Saskatchewan, is only three hundred feet lower 
(4500 feet). These low passes across the main 
chain of the Rocky Mountains are quite common. 

The moment the Howse Pass is crossed a 
difference in the woods is at once noticed. 
They are much denser, and the difficulty of 
forcing a passage for the horses becomes greater. 
The Blaeberry Creek, down which our route 
lay, did not belie its reputation for being almost 
impassable for horses. Wilson, in 1887, who 
had taken the only party with horses over the 
Howse Pass down to the Columbia since 
Hector's time, had to abandon the ponies half- 
way down the valley : he, however, returned 

59 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

later with extra men to help, and finally cut 
them out. This was due to the fallen timber, 
which is of much larger size than on the eastern 
side of the mountains, and also the excessively 
narrow and steep nature of the Blaeberry Creek. 
Even in Henry's time the route seems to have 
been a bad one, for he speaks of some Indians 
who had traversed it as having come through 
" a dreadful country, covered with thick woods, 
brules and renverses.^ Their horses' legs were 
scratched and torn in many places." The route 
we followed was more to the left than the one 
described by Hector, who seems to have fol- 
lowed the right-hand side of the Blaeberry 
Creek. Our horses all day long were scrambling 
over huge trunks of fallen trees too thick to cut 
through, or climbing up and down the steep 
banks of the stream. Late in the afternoon we 
had to camp in the forest ; the day had been wet 
and gloomy, the hills hidden, and long trailing 
streamers of mist drifting about the tree-covered 
slopes of the mountains. Hector's account of 
his first camp in this valley is an almost exact 
description of our experiences. " At last, with 
much sliding and tumbling, we reached the 
river at three o'clock, having had our horses a 

1 Trees burnt and overturned or swept down by avalanches. 
60 



THE BLAEBERRY CREEK 

good deal bruised and cut in the descent. Not 
a vestige of grass or anything that horses could 
eat was to be seen, although the vegetation was 
very luxuriant. The woods were formed of 
large trees of several kinds, and had a dense 
under-bush of young cedar or blaeberry bushes. 
We followed down the stream as fast as we 
could, in search of a more hospitable spot, till 
nightfall, when we were at last obliged to camp 
on a small gravel bar of the river, on which 
grew a few shoots of goose-grass {Equisetum), 
which our horses cropped in a few minutes, and 
was all they had to eat that night. To make 
matters worse, it rained all night, and the river 
rose so that our limited camping-ground was 
still further reduced in size, and in the morning 
some of our horses had crossed to the other side 
of the river, and the rest were so cramped for 
space that during the night they were stepping 
over us as we lay on the ground." 

Next day we pushed on down the valley, 
and the difficulty of getting the horses back- 
wards and forwards over the stream and the 
fallen timber did not decrease, for the stream 
of course increased in volume every mile down 
the narrow valley. 

At last the valley broadened a little, and we 
6i 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

came to a trapper's deserted cabin. A single 
man seemed to have inhabited it, and we won- 
dered who it might be that, for the sake of a few 
marten skins, had hved there alone through a 
whole winter. A more desolate spot could 
hardly be found, hemmed in on all sides by- 
gloomy mountains that during the winter 
months shut out effectually the sun's rays, 
exposed to the full force of the south-west 
gales which, when they did occur, would sweep 
with increased violence up this narrow sHt 
through the main chain of the Rocky Moun- 
tains. It was no wonder we found it deserted. 
Just below where this cabin had been built 
the valley opened out somewhat, and, as there 
was food for the horses, we camped. 

It was just below this part of the valley that 
Wilson had told us was the canyon where the 
greatest difficulty was likely to be found. Peyto, 
therefore, went forward to investigate ; late in 
the evening he returned with the information 
that at the next bend of the stream, just below 
Mount Mummery, the fallen pine-trees were so 
numerous that it would take a week or more to 
clear even half a mile for the horses ; he even 
suggested that in some places where the ava- 

lanched trunks were lying piled many feet deep, 

62 



THE BLAEBERRY CREEK 

the only possibility was to make a causeway over 
the obstruction. Moreover a forest fire had been 
burning for at least a fortnight, just below, the 
smoke of which we had first seen from the 
summit of Peak Sarbach ; and even now, in 
spite of all the rain that had fallen, it was still 
alight. 

Whilst Peyto had been exploring down the 
valley, we had climbed a peak on the west side 
of the valley — about 8000 feet high. From this 
point we were able to see a depression in the 
chain on the opposite side, which we thought 
might possibly lead to the north branch of th® 
Kicking Horse River, and so to Field on the 
Canadian Pacific Railway. In it lay our last 
hope, for to go back the way we had come 
would have taken about ten days, and our pro- 
visions were already nearly done. Although, 
however, this gap in the mountains to the south 
was below the tree hmit, yet we recognised that 
great difficulty would probably be experienced 
in finding a trail up which horses could be taken. 
Next day Peyto again explored dovm the valley, 
whilst Collie and Sarbach in the rain prospected 
the ground that promised the best route for the 
horses to follow towards the pass. 

The sides of the Blaeberry Creek were very 
63 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

steep, but, as our horses were now in excellent 
condition, and the loads light, when in the even- 
ing Peyto returned with the intelligence that it 
was hopeless to attempt to follow the Blaeberry 
Creek further, we made up our minds to make a 
final effort, and, if there was any possible way to 
the new pass, to find it, and so reach Field. 

Next day we started early. The route was 
excessively steep in some places, being merely a 
covering of loose moss and dirt on steeply sloping 
slabs of rock ; but as we climbed higher the 
ground became easier, and after an ascent of 
over 3000 feet we camped at the limit of the 
pine-trees at 7500 feet on a ridge. We were wet 
through ; there was no water and no feed for the 
horses. On the morrow after a couple of hours' 
march the pass was reached, 6800 feet. There 
we camped. During the night a heavy fall of 
snow occurred, which had the effect of clearing 
away the bad weather that we had been experi- 
encing since the 27th. We were certainly the 
first to cross this pass, which Collie christened 
Baker Pass, with horses ; and it seems to be the 
only route that can be used on the western side 
of the watershed for baggage animals, which 
will connect with the upper waters of the Blae- 
berry Creek. 

64 



THE BAKER PASS 



On September 7th, in brilliantly fine weather, 
the pass was crossed, and, following down the 
beautiful north branch of the Kicking Horse 
River, we arrived on September 9th at Field. 
On the last day Baker and Sarbach made the 
first ascent of a fine rock peak called Mount 
Field, which can be seen from the railway. 

Thus successfully ended the expedition. In 
1897 the hotel at Field was by no means the busy 
place it is now under the admirable management 
of Miss MoUison, since the Canadian Pacific Rail- 
way people have moved the engine-sheds up 
from Donald, and made the station a divisional 
point on the railway. The only visitor there 
was Dr. Habel, who had been exploring the 
south side of the Waputehk snow-field with 
Fred Stephens, our future guide, philosopher, 
and friend on the expeditions of 1900 and 
1902. 

On our return to Banff we could find 
nobody, except Tom Wilson, who knew any- 
thing about the country we had visited, and his 
information did not date back further than the 
time when, in 1882, he had been alone across 
the Howse Pass and down the Blaeberry Creek 
exploring for the survey department of the 

Canadian Pacific Railway. In fact, more and 

65 E 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



more remarkable appeared the lack of know- 
ledge which prevailed concerning the mountain 
country to the north; so further investigation 
was postponed until our return to England a 
few weeks later. 





US' HI' 


52 












^'.i^-z./.A '/////'V' v//^^ 




IIS" n7'' 



Sketch Map (based on the Map of Dr. Hector), showing all that was 
known in 1896 of the main Rocky Mountain range northwards of 
Mount Balfour to the Athabasca Pass. 

66 



CHAPTER IV 

THROUGH THE PIPESTONE AND SIFFLEUR VALLEYS 

During the winter of 1897-98 Collie spent his 
spare time in consulting all the literature he 
could find that dealt with the Canadian Rockies. 
He obtained a copy of that rare blue-book, 
" Palliser's Journals," which contains the only 
published record of previous exploration through 
the Mount Forbes country ; and from it he 
learned definitely that the great peak that he 
had been in search of was not Mount Murchison 
but Mount Forbes. It was surprising to find 
how much of the ground that he and Baker 
had travelled over had been carefully and accu- 
rately described by Dr. Hector, as all local 
knowledge of the district at the present day dates 
from the Canadian Pacific Railway survey : the 
older work seems to have been entirely forgotten. 
Even Dr. Hector himself was unaware how he 
had been preceded on his journeys by David 
Thompson and others, who had continually used 
the Howse Pass for crossing the range. Of the 
mountain region at the head of the north fork 

67 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

of the Saskatchewan, and surrounding the vari- 
ous sources of the Athabasca, people at Banff 
and elsewhere appeared to know nothing ; and 
a glance at the sketch map upon page 66 
reveals an almost complete blank northwards of 
Mount Forbes and Mount Lyell. It was evi- 
dent, therefore, that this region offered a pretty 
wide field for geographical investigation. 

From a mountaineering point of view, how- 
ever, by far the most interesting problem that 
presented itself to him was whether the high 
peak he had seen from the slopes of Mount 
Freshfield might be either Mount Brown or 
Mount Hooker, the two mountains standing on 
either side of the Athabasca Pass, and long 
reputed to be the loftiest summits, not only 
of North America, but possibly of the entire 
American continent. The Athabasca Pass 
forms the watershed between the two great river 
systems of the Athabasca and the Columbia, 
whose waters flow out at either end (a some- 
what rare and remarkable phenomenon) of a 
small mountain tarn rejoicing in the name of 
"The Committee's Punch-Bowl." West and 
east of the tarn, forming the Titanic pillars of 
this natural gateway to the north, were said to 

be the two great peaks, Mount Brown and 

68 



MOUNTS BROWN AND HOOKER 



Mount Hooker. These mountains, it appeared, 
were named by one David Douglas, a botanist, 
and one of the earliest pioneers of this region ; 
but no record of his journey could be found. 
Their heights were given as 16,000 and 15,700 
feet respectively ; but in later years much doubt 
was thrown on these measurements. In 1893 
Professor Coleman, of Toronto, who has done 
much admirable surveying and exploration work 
in the Rockies, visited the Athabasca Pass, after 
a long and arduous journey from the east ; and 
some of his party climbed the highest peak on 
the western side, corresponding to the position 
of Mount Brown on the maps. This peak they 
found to be only a little over 9000 feet in 
height. The professor further identified the 
pass he was on by the small circular lake known 
as " The Committee's Punch-Bowl " ; but, on 
the other hand, he did not succeed in locating 
Mount Hooker. 

Now, from the slopes of Mount Freshfield, 
Collie had seen a mountain that appeared to be 
very high — probably 14,000 or 15,000 feet ; and 
the idea naturally suggested itself that this 
mountain might be Mount Brown or Mount 
Hooker. This, however, entailed one of two 
suppositions ; either that Professor Coleman had 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

been mistaken as to the mountain climbed by 
the members of his party ; or else that the 
botanist Douglas, who named the peaks, and 
David Thompson, the Hudson's Bay Company's 
astronomer, who estimated their heights^ at 
16,000 and 15,700 feet, had traversed a different 
Athabasca pass from the one that now bears 
the name, and which Professor Coleman un- 
doubtedly visited. The first alternative seemed 
impossible ; the second was the less improbable 
of the two, as it was difficult to understand how 
Douglas and Thompson, scientists both of them, 
could have made such glaring errors as to the 
altitude of these mountains. That peaks which 
had appeared in every map of Canada for the 
past sixty years as the loftiest in the Dominion, 
and which most Canadians still believed in as in 
their Bibles — that these peaks were not, after 
all, so high as thousands of others in the main 
range, seemed almost incredible. As a Mani- 
toba paper observed. Mount Brown and Mount 
Hooker had been " attractively mysterious to at 
least two generations " of Canadians ; and the 
Dominion could not "surrender without a 
struggle its claim to possess the highest crests 

1 " Memoir, Historical and Political, on the North- West Coast 
of North America and the Adjacent Territories, 1840/' by Robert 
Greenhow. 

70 



MOUNTS BROWN AND HOOKER 

of the Rocky Mountain system." It may be 
mentioned, further, that some travellers from 
Edmonton, who visited the Athabasca Pass in 
the spring of 1898, asserted that they had seen 
Mount Brown and Mount Hooker standing 
there in their old pride of place, and they 
scouted the idea of their being frauds. 

Altogether there seemed enough doubt 
about the matter to make further investigation 
desirable. There was, at any rate, one lofty 
snow-clad peak somewhere in that untrodden 
land to the north ; and, if this did not turn cut 
to be either of the missing giants, so much the 
better, as in that case it must be some new and 
unknown mountain. There would certainly be 
plenty of virgin summits to climb, and the plane- 
table survey could also be extended and finished. 

In the spring, therefore. Collie, feeling drawn 
by the fascination of those wild western valleys 
irresistibly back to the Canadian Rockies, laid 
his plans for another trip. Stutfield, being 
asked to accompany him, accepted the invitation 
with alacrity. To reach the actual sources of 
the vast river systems of the Saskatchewan, the 
Athabasca, and the Columbia ; to explore and 
map out the unknown mountain country where 
they take their rise ; to locate, and perhaps to 

71 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

climb, the semi-fabulous peaks of that region ; 
to rehabilitate, if the facts permitted, the out- 
raged majesty of Mount Brown — all this, with 
more besides, was a tempting enough pro- 
gramme in itself; but he also hoped to work 
in a little sport on his own account with moun- 
tain sheep, or bear, or goat, so long as such 
frivolities did not interfere with the more serious 
business of map-making and mountaineering. 

We started from Liverpool on July the 
14th on board the Dominion Line steamer 
Labrador, now at the bottom of the sea off 
Skerry vore, on the west coast of Scotland. 
Wil\\ us came Mr. Hermann Woolley, of 
Caucasian and Alpine mountaineering fame, 
who was also destined to accompany us on 
our fourth and final trip in 1902. We took no 
Swiss guides. Friday the 29th saw us housed 
under Mr. Mathews' care in the excellent 
Canadian Pacific Railway hotel at Banff. The 
exquisite beauties of this delightful spot were 
new to Woolley and Stutfield ; but we had no 
time to spend there, as our outfit had been got 
ready for us by Tom Wilson by the time we 
arrived. However, we passed a very pleasant 
afternoon on the Saturday, canoeing along the 

smooth reaches of the Bow, and following the 

72 



THE PIPESTONE VALLEY 

sinuosities of its shady backwaters up to where 
the VermiUon Lakes nestle among the trees in 
the shadow of tall mountains, with the tre- 
mendous grey precipices of Mount Rundle and 
Cascade Peak in the background. From the pas- 
tures high above us came the sound of tinkling 
cow-bells, familiar to all Swiss mountaineers ; 
while a steam launch and sundry boating parties 
disporting themselves on the wooded reaches 
of the river recalled memories of the Thames, 
until we began to fancy ourselves in some sub- 
Alpine Maidenhead, or Wargrave. 

Early on Sunday morning we took the train 
to Laggan, where the outfit awaited us. Bill 
Peyto was again in charge, and under him were 
W. Byers, cook, Nigel Vavasour, and Roy 
Douglas. There were thirteen horses, an in- 
sufficient as well as an unlucky number ; three 
dogs, a most undesirable addition to a travelling 
outfit, as the sequel will show ; and the usual 
paraphernalia of tents, provisions, and baggage. 
Instead of following the Bow Valley, as Collie 
and Baker had done the year before, we 
travelled to the Saskatchewan via the Pipe- 
stone and Siffleur creeks, in order to investigate 
that other somewhat mythical peak. Mount 
Murchison, estimated by Dr. Hector to be 

73 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

13,500 feet high, and, according to the same 
authority, regarded by the Indians as the 
loftiest summit in the Canadian Rockies. Some 
other early cartographer, with a fine parade of 
accuracy, gave its height as 15,781 feet; and 
this latter measurement, strange to say, appears 
even now in some of the best and most up- 
to-date maps. These maps place the mountain 
just at the bottom of Bear Creek valley on 
the eastern side ; but no such exalted peak had 
been seen there by Baker and Collie, either 
from Mount Gordon or from the summit they 
climbed above the Bow Pass, or yet from 
Mount Sarbach — which could not be more than 
ten miles off ; so, as the matter seemed involved 
in considerable doubt, we determined to en- 
deavour to clear it up. 

By noon the horses were packed and we 
were off into the wilds. The retrospective 
views over the Laggan group of mountains 
were magnificent. Peak after peak, snow-clad 
and glacier-crowned, came into sight as we 
climbed higher up the thickly- wooded hillside : 
soon the railway station and the Canadian 
Pacific Railway were lost to view, and we were 
alone with the hills and the trees. For many 
weeks it would be good-bye to civilisation and 

74 



THE PIPESTONE VALLEY 

its conventions and boredoms ; its feather-beds 
and tahle-dhotes ; its tall hats, frock coats, and 
stick-up collars. The wilderness lay between 
us and dull Respectability ; we could wear what 
we liked, and enjoy the ineffable delights of 
being as disreputable as we pleased. Out here 
Nature and mankind (only there was no man- 
kind) were alike untamed : there were no game- 
laws, and trespassers would not be prosecuted ; 
and, last but not least, we could burn as much 
wood ("you can get it for the mere axing," 
some degraded member of the outfit remarked) 
and chop down as many trees as we wished 
without fearing the terrors of the law. To two 
of us the experience was a novel one, for neither 
Stutfield nor Woolley had ever been in the 
backwoods before ; but their aesthetic impres- 
sions were much blunted by the constant 
attentions of the mosquitoes, and the necessity 
of looking after the horses as they blundered 
through and over the dead timber that choked 
the trail. Indeed, we had not gone far before 
our unlucky number of thirteen ponies was 
reduced to twelve, as one poor beast fell and 
broke its leg jumping over a log, and we had 
to shoot it. 

Our first camp was in the pine-woods beside 
75 



CLIMBS ANT> EXPLORATION 

the Pipestone Creek. It was terrifically hot; 
the mosquitoes were very bad ; and, taking one 
thing with another, we were not quite as happy 
as we ought to have been. It must not be 
supposed that the delights of camp-life in the 
Canadian Rockies are always immediately ap- 
parent to the traveller fresh from Europe. It 
takes a little time to get accustomed to the 
rough food and hard ground, and generally to 
adapt oneself to one's new environment. For 
a day or two we were all more or less out of 
sorts ; and that evening Stutfield had a serious 
disagreement with his digestive organs. 

" Hie ego propter aquam, quod erat deterrima, ventri 
Indico bellum." 

Only it wasn't the water, he said, but Byers' 
abominably strong tea, the doughy bannocks, 
the fried onions and fat bacon, that disturbed 
him so. However, the symptoms, if severe, 
were only temporary ; and we had all recovered 
our usual health when, on the third afternoon, 
we pitched the tents in a pretty spot among 
the trees an hour below the Pipestone Pass. 
A storm was brewing, and the heat tremen- 
dous. We tried to bathe in the stream, but 
before we were half undressed a brigade of 
" bulldogs " (big horse-flies, Hke over-sized blue- 

76 



A "Smudge" 




Collie ox "The Grey 



THE PIPESTONE VALLEY 

bottles, with sharp nippers that draw blood) 
mustered, with clouds of mosquitoes ; and, 
attacking us, " not in single spies, but in bat- 
talions," fairly put us to rout. The " smudges," 
or fires of damp grass and weeds, that we lit 
to drive them off proved of little avail. At 
midnight the threatened thunderstorm broke, 
and a very severe one it was. In less than 
half-an-hour a small stream was flowing down 
the centre of our tent and making things de- 
cidedly uncomfortable. On this trip we used 
a teepee, or Indian tent, which, though excel- 
lent in many respects, has its disadvantages. 
It is roomy and well ventilated, having a 
good-sized hole at the top for letting out the 
smoke ; but this aperture lets in the water as 
well as the air, and on these hot summer days, 
when you have a thunderstorm every other 
evening or so, the grateful rain pours through 
it and cools you down pleasantly. Another 
little drawback is that you have to cut down 
fifteen young trees for poles every time you 
put it up ; so it cannot be described as a labour- 
saving appliance. 

Next morning, August the 3rd, we crossed 
the Pipestone Pass, 8400 feet above the sea 
— the highest we ever went over with horses — 

77 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

and Collie climbed a small peak to the west 
in order to get a better view of the surround- 
ing country. The scenery about the pass is 
grand, but desolate. Huge battlemented crags, 
grotesque rather than beautiful, with cliffs over 
2000 feet in height, guard the western side of 
the valley ; and the strata, tilted upwards at 
a uniform angle, with the precipices falling 
always towards the east, form a multitude of 
mountains of the form happily described by 
Mr. Leslie Stephen as the " writing-desk " 
shape. A peak which, if the maps were cor- 
rect, could be no other than Murchison, loomed 
dimly through the mists to the north-west, but 
it was evident that its height had been greatly 
exaggerated. Clouds hung everywhere about 
the hills, but they cleared off as the day wore 
on, and after this we had fine weather for 
nearly three weeks. From the pass we de- 
scended into the valley of the Siffleur, a tri- 
butary of the Saskatchewan, at first over alps 
bright with red painter's brush and big yellow 
daisies ; lower down through dense scrub of 
dwarf willow, and then once more among the 
everlasting pine-woods. The trail improved as 
we advanced, and the outfit did two good days' 
march. On the Thursday we saw on our left, 

78 



THE SIFFLEUR VALLEY 

across the river, a fine glacier descending from 
the flanks of the Murchison group of moun- 
tains, and a valley coming into that of the 
Siffleur from the south-west. This valley was 
explored a few days later by Messrs. Thompson, 
Noyes, and Weed, who named it Dolomite 
Valley, from some curious rock formations near 
its head. They describe it as fairly open at first, 
with glaciers on the western side and a large 
lake about five miles up ; but further on there 
are narrow canyons, and horses can only be 
got through with difficulty. 

The Siffleur had here grown to a good-sized 
stream ; and, as our horses were all required for 
the baggage (we had hitherto done all the 
journey on foot), we were conveyed across, one 
by one, on Peyto's fine mare. Pet. On the other 
side of the river the trail entered a thick forest 
of tall pines, with bad patches of muskeg. Here 
and there whole clumps of trees had been blown 
down or burned; and the logs, piled in wild 
confusion one on another, formed a tangle that 
made our progress very slow. Of the trunks 
that remained upright many were rotten and 
tottering to their fall ; others, intercepted in 
their descent, rested on the branches of some 
neighbouring giant of the wood ; and with every 

79 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

passing breeze there arose a great creaking and 
groaning among them, hke the wailing of lost 
souls in some arboreal Hades, as the weary forest 
Titan, his roots already starting from the ground, 
laboured under his too heavy load. You have to 
keep a sharp look-out for these falling trees ; and 
one of the horses had a narrow escape from a 
trunk which he bumped against with his pack, 
and which fell right across the trail, narrowly 
missing the animal's haunches. In such woods 
it is not merely a case of " Beware the pine-tree's 
withered branch," but of dodging his charred or 
rotting stem as it crashes to the ground. How- 
ever, our heavily-laden team, though sinking 
deep in the boggy ground at every step, went 
gallantly on, headed by old Molly, the bell-mare, 
with her little foal trotting by her side. Every 
few minutes we had to wait while the men were 
cutting out the trail. It was tedious work for 
us, as one could do nothing but sit still on a log 
and scratch one's mosquito bites, listening to the 
tinkling of Molly's bell and the blows of Peyto's 
axe as they resounded through the wood. As the 
men said, it was a very "mean trail," though 
in places it was fairly well defined, and Peyto 
proved to us that we were on the right one by 

finding an occasional ** blaze." or notch cut in 

80 



The Siffleur Creek 




Fallen Timber in the Siffleur Valley 



THE SIFFLEUR VALLEY 

the bark of a tree. We also picked up an old 
weather-beaten copy of " Hamlet " that had been 
dropped by some hunter or prospector ; while 
now and then the teepee poles of old Indian 
camping-grounds were seen. Travelling in the 
Canadian Rockies is far more difficult and 
tedious now than it was forty years ago, in the 
days of Hector and Palliser, when game was 
more abundant, and the passing to and fro of 
Indians and trappers kept the trails open. In 
these times things are altogether different; the 
woods are veritable wildernesses, and, strange as 
it may seem, we never once met a human being 
— red, black, or white — during either of our 
journeys up country in 1898 or 1900. 

Matters improved when we emerged from 
the Siffleur canyon into a tract of undulating 
country in the main valley of the North Saskat- 
chewan. Leaving the forest, the trail turned 
abruptly westwards across miles of barren hills 
strewn with burnt timber. In the old days, 
at the beginning of the century, a sort of fair 
or annual meeting took place here between the 
Kootenay Indians from the western side of the 
Rocky Mountains and the fur-traders from the 
east ; and in consequence this piece of mode- 
rately open country hidden away among the 

8 1 F 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

hills was called " The Kootenay Plains." Now 
for over half a century it has remained undis- 
turbed, save for an occasional trapper or pros- 
pector wandering among the mountains. The 
fair, even in Dr. Hector's days, had been long 
discontinued ; and he tells how his Indian 
hunter, Nimrod, pointed out to him a large 
tributary of the Saskatchewan coming from the 
north-west, called the Waputehk, or White 
Goat River (the Cataract River of Coleman), 
up which lay a trail to Jasper House on the 
Athabasca. " This trail," we read in his journal, 
"was known as * Old Cline's trail.' Cline was 
a trader who travelled through the mountains 
from Jasper House to the Kootenay plain." 

This is now ancient history ; not only have 
the Redskins and the fur- traders almost entirely 
deserted these upper waters of the Saskat- 
chewan, but the game has gone too. On one 
occasion, while Hector was sitting on the moun- 
tain side above the Kootenay Plain, he says, 
" a flock of at least a hundred rams rushed close 
past me, so close, indeed, that I hit them with 
stones." He also found traces of buflalo, but 
these were already becoming scarce ; and now 
the mountain sheep bid fair to follow the buffalo 

into the limbo of the extinct. 

82 



THE SASKATCHEWAN VALLEY 

The view up the valley was closed by a fine 
glacier-covered mountain, named by Collie Peak 
Wilson, after Tom Wilson, of Banff ; the fore- 
ground being filled in by the picturesque wind- 
ings of the big river between rocky knolls. 
Down stream, where the Saskatchewan turned 
abruptly to the north, a lurid copper- coloured 
haze hung over the hills, and told of forest fires 
raging in the direction of the Athabasca river. 
This haze probably came from vast tracts of 
forest that had been fired by the wretched folk 
who were trying to reach the Klondike from 
Edmonton. Some thousands of these poor 
people had been despatched to their death or 
ruin through the lying reports spread about by 
transport agents and storekeepers, and not one 
out of five hundred ever reached his destination. 

We soon reached the Saskatchewan, which, 
owing to the great heat melting the glacier 
snows, was in tremendous flood, and tearing 
down like a muddy mill-race 150 to 300 yards 
in width. 

Towards sundown on Saturday the wind 
changed, and the distant smoke-clouds we had 
observed in the morning came rolling up the 
valley, completely obliterating the mountains 
from view. The haze was as thick as a moder- 

83 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

ate London fog ; the air grew suspiciously hot 
and heavy ; and a strong peaty odour assailed 
our nostrils. Round the camp-fire that evening 
the conversation naturally was of forest fires and 
the chances of our outfit escaping if the valley 
got ablaze. Very tall were the yarns that cir- 
culated as the flames shot merrily upwards from 
the crackling logs, and the ruddy sparks flew 
aloft into the gloom to join company with the 
now dimly shining stars. Death, it was repre- 
sented to us, confronted the backwoods traveller 
in a quite remarkable variety of shapes ; and, even 
if we did not break our necks on the mountains, 
we gathered it would be hard lines if some 
member of the outfit did not die of sunstroke, 
get burned in his bed, starved, slain by falling 
trees, or drowned while fording rivers. Finally, 
Woolley, remarking that it was getting late, 
announced that he was going to bed in his 
boots. This augmented Stutfield's already 
growing terror, for he slept with his head near 
WooUey's feet ; and the latter, who was a noted 
footballer in his day, had a nasty way sometimes 
of practising place-kicks in his dreams. How- 
ever, the night passed without further alarms of 
any sort, and next morning the sun shone in a 

comparatively clear sky. 

84 



THE SASKATCHEWAN VALLEY 

Sunday was always our unlucky day, and 
the 7th of August proved no exception to the 
rule. It was tremendously hot ; the Saskat- 
chewan was tearing down in bigger flood than 
ever ; and the trail along its banks was in many 
places under water. The horses were con- 
tinually floundering about in deep holes, and 
we noticed with some misgivings that they 
keenly relished their bathes. These tiresome 
Indian ponies take to the water like ducks, and 
plunge into pools and torrents for the mere fun 
of the thing. Suddenly, as we were rounding a 
nasty corner where the bank dropped steeply 
into the river, a bay pack-horse called Nitchi " 
sHpped and fell in up to his neck. Finding the 
water nice and cool, and that it lightened the 
load on his back, to our horror he coolly swam 
out into mid-stream, and, after a desperate 
struggle with the swift current, reached an 
island separated from us by a broad channel. 
Molly, the bell-mare, who was always up to 
mischief, seeing the fun, took a header in after 
her companion, and her foal promptly followed 
its dam. The little creature was turned bodily 
over by the force of the current, and for a 
moment it seemed as though it must be 
drowned ; but it soon recovered itself, and 

85 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

striking out pluckily swam to the island, where 

it shook itself like a dog, and trotted after its 

dam. We should have had the whole outfit 

swimming if we had not managed to grab hold 

of all the remaining horses except one, who 

made a bolt for the water before it could be 

secured, and swam across to the other three 

culprits. The language that ensued fairly beat 

all records in backwoods' profanity. The forest 

glades rang with it ; and the smoke- vapours 

grew perceptibly bluer and thicker. There is a 

western saying to the effect that " No man can 

serve God and drive oxen " ; and a pack-team 

of cayooses can be equally relied on to evoke 

unchristian sentiments and purple patches of 

vituperation. The whole thing would have been 

excessively comic had the possible consequences 

been less serious ; but the loss of our baggage 

would have meant the ruin of the trip, and possibly 

starvation before we got back to civilisation. 

The only thing to be done was to move on 

with the rest of the team, and leave Peyto 

behind to coax the delinquents back. In ten 

minutes he reappeared, furiously whacking the 

four dripping animals ; and it is needless to 

say that we found our bacon, flour, and sugar 

in a nice mess. We camped in a dreary spot 

86 



THE SASKATCHEWAN VALLEY 

beside a marsh, and proceeded to dry the stuff. 
That afternoon the heat grew worse than ever, 
while every species of insect abomination — 
mosquitoes, black-flies, sand-flies, midges, and 
bull-dogs — buzzed about us ; and Stutfield 
awoke from a nap on a mossy bank to find 
a tribe of ferocious ants on the war-path inside 
his shirt and striking a trail down his spinal 
column. The night brought Httle relief; and 
the mosquitoes, who generally ceased to worry 
us in bed, allowed us no peace, until, tired of 
lying awake and abusing one another for not 
going to sleep, we arose and took a midnight 
ramble through the forest. Next day we were 
forced by the floods high up into the woods 
where there was no trail, and the men had 
terrible work with the fallen timber. Late in 
the afternoon we struck an old Indian trail, 
which enabled us to push on more rapidly. 
The scenery grew grander and more Alpine as 
we advanced, and several fine peaks came into 
view whenever the haze lifted. Passing two or 
three pretty lakes tenanted by sundry wildfowl, 
we entered a forest of unusually tall pines. To- 
wards seven o'clock a sound of rushing waters 
told us that we were approaching Bear Creek, 
and in half-an-hour we found ourselves at our 

87 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



former camping-ground. Here the outfit, which 
had been nine days on the move, took a much- 
needed rest. 

Coming to the camping-place from the 
woods to the east we were immensely impressed 
by the beauty of its surroundings. Here, in a 
wide basin in the heart of the mountains, is the 
confluence of the three principal branches of the 
North Saskatchewan — the South Fork, or Bear 
Creek, the Middle (or West) Fork, and the 
North Fork — all leading to splendid Alpine 
scenery ; while the main valley, up which we 
had just travelled, displays pictures of hill, 
forest, and river that are by no means to be 
despised. In every direction is a landscape to 
delight an artist's eye.' Great mountain masses, 
bare and rugged to the north, their flanks more 
gently sloping and richly wooded towards the 
west and south, and remarkably diversified in 
form, tower round the spectator on all sides, but 
at a distance sufficient to enable him to gauge 
their true dimensions and grandeur. The main 
Saskatchewan River makes its exit through a 
mighty cleft between Mount Murchison and 
Peak Wilson, which stand as the huge twin 
portals of this threshold to the higher mountain 

region: lower down, the valley opens out, and 

88 



THE SASKATCHEWAN VALLEY 

the adjacent ranges, though steep and rocky in 
places, are for the most part of moderate height. 
The tributary streams, on the other hand — 
those of Bear Creek and the North Fork — issue 
from narrow canyons of a more sombre and 
forbidding character, with lofty peaks rising 
abruptly on either side. 

Taken altogether the place seems an ideal 
one for a tourist centre ; and we may fairly 
anticipate that at the mouth of Bear Creek 
will be the Chamonix or Grindelwald of the 
Canadian Alps in days to come, when the 
remoter peaks and valleys of this beautiful 
region are made accessible to the outside world, 
and the new mountain playground of the Ameri- 
can continent becomes no longer a dream but a 
reality. 



89 



CHAPTER V 



UP THE NORTH FORK OF THE SASKATCHEWAN 

We cached a considerable portion of our pro- 
visions at the camping-place, as henceforth our 
saddle-horses would be required for fording 
rivers. Bear Creek itself had to be crossed on 
the morrow, and, as we watched the swollen 
stream foaming and tumbhng over its rocky 
bed, the prospect was not altogether an agree- 
able one. However, Peyto, who does not 
usually take a roseate view of things, thought 
we could manage it all right. If anybody was 
upset, he said, he would probably struggle 
ashore somehow, unless he happened to knock 
his head against a stone ; " and then." he philo- 
sophically added, " one would die easy." 

Early next morning the crossing was effected 
without mishap ; but we were all very glad 
when it was over. The water was nowhere 
more than three or four feet deep, but the 
stream was running like a mill-race, and the 
loose stones and boulders on the bottom made 

it very difficult for the horses to keep their 

90 



UP THE NORTH FORK 

footing. Following the south bank of the West 
or Middle Fork, we saw on the other side of the 
river the mouth of the North Fork, which dis- 
charges into the Saskatchewan the meltings of 
the great snow-fields and glaciers we were about 
to explore. A mile or so above the junction we 
forded the West Fork at a place where the 
water was spread out over a big shingle-flat 
half a mile wide ; and then, turning down 
stream, camped in the angle between the two 
rivers. Our worst troubles were now about to 
begin. The Indian trail up the North Fork 
valley lay on the further (east) side of the river, 
and, as the latter was quite unfordable in its 
present state, we should be obliged to force our 
way up its west bank. 

The next day (Thursday, 11th August) we 
did not move camp. Peyto and Nigel went 
ahead to find or cut a trail ; while Collie and 
Stutfield climbed a peak, named by the former 
" Survey Peak," to enable him to commence his 
plane-table survey. After two and a half hours' 
tedious climb through the woods, battling with 
fallen logs and aggravating scrub, we emerged 
into the open ; and an easy scramble over loose 
stones took us to the top. The flies followed us 
far up the mountain side, and we experienced 

91 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the novel sensation of chopping ice for water 
with our ice-axes, and being bitten at the same 
time by mosquitoes and bull-dogs. The same 
everlasting haze hung over the landscape ; the 
sky was of a dull uniform leaden hue ; no light 
fleecy clouds floated in the air or rolled lazily 
along the flanks of the hills ; but a dingy grey 
pall brooded monotonously over the whole 
mountain world. When at intervals it lifted 
we had glorious peeps of Mount Forbes and the 
blue expanse of Glacier Lake lying in a deep 
valley almost immediately below us. The 
waters of the lake, which descend from the 
enormous Lyell Glacier, discharge themselves 
by a short stream into the Middle Fork. South- 
wards we could dimly see the bold rock and 
snow peaks which cluster round the head of 
Bear Creek valley, while right above our late 
camping ground was the imposing Murchison 
group, culminating in several peaks, one a large 
serrated ridge, another a gigantic square-topped 
obelisk of most formidable aspect, and quite 
sheer on three sides. We estimated the height 
of its loftiest summits to be about 11,500 feet, 
which estimate proved subsequently to be ap- 
proximately correct. To the north we looked 

down on a curious basin, carpeted with a broad 

92 




A Backwater of the North Fork 



UP THE NORTH FOUK 

expanse of turf, and ringed round by lofty lime- 
stone cliffs, with striking rock-forms like the 
Dolomites. The peaks of these mountains were 
all flat -topped, and one of them had a curious 
rift, or gash, that clove the summit in two. We 
got back to camp late, and found poor Woolley 
nearly eaten alive by mosquitoes. 

The next four days were one long battle 
with woods, muskegs, and rivers, the cussedness 
of pack-horses, and our own tempers. The 
North Fork seemed quite unfordable, and in 
places its waters were lost as they rushed 
foaming and swirling at the bottom of deep 
rocky gorges. Had we had less resolute and 
hard-working men than Peyto and his staff, our 
trip must inevitably have resulted in failure. 
As it was, we more than once feared we should 
be forced to turn back. From early morning to 
late afternoon they cut and cut away, but yet we 
could make no more than three or four miles a 
day. It was aggravating, too, to see across the 
river and within a stone's-throw of us, moder- 
ately open country with a good trail, and yet 
to be unable to get to it. Still, for us people 
who were not obliged to be always log- chopping, 
the time passed very pleasantly : indeed, our life 
in camp would have been an ideal one but for 

93 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the flies, and they only annoyed us for a few 
days more. Especially delightful were the even- 
ings, when, the mosquitoes having gone to sleep, 
we sat and smoked our pipes on the mossy banks 
of the river, listening to the swish of its rushing 
waters and watching the daylight fade slowly 
away on the mountain tops. The combination of 
rock, river, and forest scenery just here was mag- 
nificent. We were right under the great cliffs of 
Peak Wilson, which rose sheer 6000 feet from 
the opposite bank. Towards evening a fierce 
brassy glare, due to the presence of smoke in the 
atmosphere, overspread the sky. Great coils 
and masses of vapour, with fiery smouldering 
edges, were banked one upon another in the 
west ; and, as the sun went down, its rays red- 
dened the great towers, bastions, and buttresses 
of crag, with a rich red glow that contrasted 
sharply with the gloom of the intervening 
canyons. 

The traveller along the eastern slopes of 
the Canadian Rockies does not, as a rule, see 
much bird or animal life in the backwoods. 
An occasional black-headed tom-tit, a jay here 
and there, grouse of three kinds, a woodpecker 
with a voice like a fishing-reel being rapidly 
unwound, a few dippers or water - ouzels, and 

94 



UP THE NOKTH FORK 

a kingfisher or two along the river banks, re- 
present the feathered tribe in the lower forests. 
There are also ground-squirrels and tree-squir- 
rels of various sorts ; and the engaging little 
chipmunk scolds and chatters in the branches 
as his sanctuary is invaded. These tiny forest 
folk have a language all their own, and their 
queer antics afforded constant entertainment 
both to men and dogs. Now and then a por- 
cupine may be seen climbing a tree like a 
small bear, or rolling himself up into a posture 
of defence against two- or four-legged foes. 

On the 14th, being Sunday, our unlucky 
day, our horses got lost — it was supposed they 
had seen or smelt a bear — and we had a ter- 
rible job to find them. These tiresome creatures 
proved a constant source of vexation to us, but 
it must be admitted that their idiosyncrasies 
afforded a somewhat amusing study. There 
was Collie's old grey, alluded to already, who 
had more sense than almost any six others put 
together ; the impulsive Buckskin, for ever 
flying off at a tangent into the thickest part 
of the wood and kicking off his pack there ; 
Molly, that aggravating old thing, for ever up 
to all sorts of pranks, in spite of her mature 
years and the responsibilities of motherhood ; 

95 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

Woolley's tall, raw-boned chestnut, Joe, always 
hungry and strongly resenting any interference 
with his meals ; Girlie and Nitchi, the bay, 
who loved bathing in deep waters and soaking 
our provisions and baggage ; the wise, long- 
headed Pinto, an indispensable adjunct to any 
outfit of Tom Wilson's ; and lastly, the patient 
plodding Denny, wall-eyed and pink-nosed, 
whose preternaturally thoughtful air and tardy 
methodical movements brought upon him un- 
numbered thwacks. Owing to our slow pro- 
gress they were all unusually troublesome just 
now on the trail ; and that evening, the men 
having had a very long and tiring day's work, 
we dispensed with the teepee and camped in 
the open round the fire, beguiling the night 
hours with tales of Klondike and gold-pros- 
pecting, of Indians and hunting and trapping, 
of riding buck -jumping bronchos, and other 
topics of an improving and entertaining char- 
acter. The burden of conversation feU chiefly 
on Byers ; and he ably sustained it, being a 
most amusing talker, a keen pohtician, and a 
theologian of somewhat unorthodox views — 
which he propounded with an air of most re- 
freshing confidence. Later on the talk shifted 
to the interpretation of certain verses of Genesis, 

96 




The Pinto 



UP THE NORTH FORK 



and Byers took the opportunity to pronounce a 
glowing eulogy upon the scheme of Creation, 
which, in a passage of singular eloquence, he 
described as " a mighty fine outfit." Some rash 
person venturing to controvert his views, our 
cook promptly overwhelmed him with a torrent 
of backwoods satire and invective ; and the 
would-be objector, crushed in argument, took 
refuge in an outburst of somewhat pointless 
profanity. Then the tobacco was passed round, 
and the discussion ended — as such discussions 
usually do end — in smoke. 

Next morning Peyto and Nigel went ahead 
in search of the trail, while Stutfield scrambled 
up the steep sides of a neighbouring creek in 
search of goat or bear, but without success. At 
one o'clock the men returned, and we noticed 
that their faces wore a very dejected air. They 
reported that a mile further on a big river came 
in from the west down a wide valley filled with 
impassable muskeg ; and, with much emphasis 
and many flowers of western speech, they stated 
their views. It was quite impossible, they said, 
to get up the valley, and nobody but a fool 
would want to try ; it would take at least a 
week to make a trail on the other side of the 
river — if we could get there — and they were 

97 G 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

sick of cutting. Ignoring Peyto's picturesque 
language, CoUie remarked that the weather was 
exceedingly warm ; they must be very thirsty ; 
and that whisky and water wasn't a bad drink 
when you couldn't get anything better. To 
this they agreed. We waited. There was evi- 
dently nothing for it but to cross the muddy 
torrent of the North Fork on our right, even if 
we had to swim for it, and at any cost — or else 
give up the trip. Peyto thought that the river 
was unfordable, but, after several plucky at- 
tempts, he forced his mare across, and the 
outfit followed. The water in mid-stream was 
almost up to the horses' backs, and the current 
very swift ; but the bottom was good, and we 
all got over with nothing worse than wet legs 
and damp packs. Following the wide stony 
bed of the river for a little, we recrossed it 
without difficulty above the junction, and 
camped on a hillock in the angle between the 
two streams. The tributary appeared to be 
fully as large as the North Fork, but it is not 
marked on any of the older maps. It drains 
a very large area, and all the glaciers on the 
north side of Mount Lyell supply it with water. 
It flows sluggishly eastwards in a deep winding 
channel, and the valley, which is nearly half 

98 



UP THE NORTH FORK 

a mile wide, is covered with large bogs and 
lagoons. Stutfield walked some distance up it 
with the rifle until he was stopped by dense 
underwood and muskeg. He could see no 
mountains of any size towards its head, while 
a fairly well-worn trail, that was now mostly 
under water, seemed to point to its leading to 
a pass over into the valley of the Columbia. 
Some days later Collie and WooUey saw this 
pass from the summit of Mount Athabasca, and 
in 1900 it was explored for the first time by 
Mr. C. Thompson. 

We could find no game of any description 
except a few willow grouse or " fool-hen " — so 
called from their tameness and the ease with 
which they allow themselves to be killed — which 
always proved acceptable additions to our scanty 
larder. There are several kinds of grouse in the 
forests, the largest of them being the blue grouse, 
a handsome bird nearly as big as a blackcock ; 
Franklin's grouse, which is much smaller ; and 
Richardson's grouse, or fool-hen proper, which 
also rejoices in the more dignified Latin title of 
Dendraga'phus Ohscurus Richardsonii. When 
Stutfield returned to camp there was one of 
these confiding birds sitting on a low branch, 
preening his feathers and blinking at us after 

99 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the fashion of his fooHsh kind. Taking with 
them a small pistol, which WooUey had brought 
as a defence against grizzlies and marauding 
Indians and the like, Collie and Stutfield ad- 
vanced to the attack. The first shot missed 
by about two feet, and the bird wagged his tail 
derisively, but never budged. After several 
more ineffectual efforts a bullet removed two 
feathers of his tail. The fool-hen nodded his 
head approvingly, as much as to say, " That's 
better; persevere, and you may bag me yet," 
but still refused to move. Then there was a 
miss-fire and a cartridge jammed, and, as we 
were examining it, the thing exploded, and 
ColUe's head was nearly taken off. Finally, 
after some more bad shooting. Collie in despera- 
tion swarmed a neighbouring tree, with the 
pistol in his pocket, and " potted " the over- 
trustful fowl at a distance of five feet, and we 
had him for supper. 

Our worst troubles were over for the present, 
as we struck a fairly good trail on the eastern 
bank, and all went well, except that the horses 
had a swim in a deep hole, and we again got the 
baggage wet. A good deal of burned timber 
could be seen ahead, the bare poles sticking up 
like a forest of masts in some distant dockyard, 

lOO 



UP THE NORTH FORK 

but on closer acquaintance it did not prove very 
troublesome. Further on the valley contracted 
to a gorge ; and we bivouacked once more a la 
belle etoile at the foot of a lofty cliff. Towards 
midnight we were awakened by loud talking and 
laughing, and saw the men trooping back into 
camp armed with guns, hatchets, and lanterns. 

" What's up, Peyto ? " we asked, from the 
recesses of our sleeping-bags. 

" Great Caesar's ghost ! We've been bear- 
hunting," he replied, laughing. 

A large animal, presumably a grizzly, had 
been heard moving in the thicket, and they had 
gone in pursuit. The bear proved to be our 
friend WooUey, who was wandering round in 
search of a dark place out of the moonlight, 
wherein to change his photographic plates. 

Our eighteenth and last day's march up the 
valley, on August the 17th, was a long one. 
For the first time for many days we left the 
banks of the Saskatchewan, which had caused 
us so much trouble and anxiety. We quitted 
it without a pang, and began climbing the hill- 
face on our right. The trail rose rapidly, and 
we had a delightful ride through a forest of giant 
pines with trunks of a rich glowing red. Below 
us a tributary of the Saskatchewan plunged in a 

lOI 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

magnificent cataract down into a deep gorge. 
Very soon the valley forked, and we turned to 
our left and followed the banks of the western 
stream : the other branch descends from a pass, 
which Stutfield subsequently crossed, leading 
over into the head-waters of the Erazeau River. 
The country here was much more open, and the 
going perfectly easy. Our course lay W.N. W. ; 
and, passing through some pretty park-like 
glades, the outfit emerged into a broad, green, 
and nearly level valley. We had passed the 
watershed unawares; for the tiny rivulet that 
now meandered, parallel with us, peacefully 
through the meadows was the infant Athabasca 
starting on its long journey to the Great Slave 
Lake and the Arctic Ocean. Curiously enough, 
the Saskatchewan streamlet, whose waters are 
ultimately destined to lose themselves in Hud- 
son's Bay, flows down from the opposite hill and 
passes within fifty yards of its rival. 

We made our permanent camp in a charming 
spot in the woods at an elevation of 7000 feet ; 
and it was delightful to think that, for some 
days at least, we should not have to shift the 
tents, to pack our beds and baggage, to listen to 
the perpetual " chop-chop " of Peyto's axe, or to 
drive the stubborn cayooses along the trail. We 

102 



UP THE NORTH FORK 

had not journeyed very far — about 150 miles 
or so — but it had taken us eighteen days of 
pretty constant work to reach our base of opera- 
tions. Of course, travel in the summer months, 
when the rivers are swollen with the meltings of 
the glaciers, is far more difficult than in the Fall, 
when the water is low. Immediately opposite 
our camp, to the south-west, rose a noble snow- 
crowned peak, about 12,000 feet in height, with 
splendid rock precipices and hanging glaciers ; 
and on its right the tongue of a fine glacier 
descended in serpentine sinuosities to the bottom 
of the valley. We named them Athabasca 
Peak and Glacier respectively. The spirits of 
us three climbers rose high, and our blood was 
stirred within us at the thought of being once 
more on the ice and snow ; and WooUey espe- 
cially hailed the prospect of a really good climb 
with delight, for in his Caucasian wanderings 
nineteen days' travel through valleys had never 
been part either of the programme or the per- 
formance. It was decided, therefore, that we 
should attack the peak next day. 

After dinner, however, it struck us that we 
ought to see how our " grub-pile " was getting 
on. We knew that it was pretty low, as we had 

started with an insufficient stock, our appetites 

103 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

were healthy, and the dogs had eaten a great 
deal more of our bacon than was good either for 
them or for us ; but we were quite unprepared 
for the alarming state of affairs which the inspec- 
tion disclosed. There was flour for five, and 
bacon for two, days, at the outside ; and this was 
all that was left on which to do a fortnight's or 
three weeks' climbing, and to get back to Bear 
Creek ! Meat, it was evident, must be procured 
somehow, and soon, or we should be starved 
into retreat, and the trip would result in ignomi- 
nious failure. A council of war was held, and 
Stutfield suggested that Collie and WooUey had 
better do the chmb by themselves, while he went 
off in search of mountain sheep, or bighorn, 
which were said to be fairly plentiful in the 
neighbouring mountains. This plan was agreed 
to, and we made our arrangements for the 
morrow accordingly. 



104 



CHAPTER VI 



ATHABASCA PEAK; A BIGHORN HUNT; AND DIS- 
COVERY OF THE COLUMBIA ICE-FIELD 

The story of the ascent of Athabasca Peak had 
better, perhaps, be given in Collie's own words. 
" It was somewhat late in the morning when 
Woolley and I started for our peak. Just after 
we had emerged from the pine-woods some valu- 
able time was wasted over killing two ptarmigan 
with stones, but the small glacier on the east 
side of the peak was soon reached. It was not 
much crevassed, and keeping to the right we 
soon hit the north-eastern arete. This ridge for 
a short time gave us good climbing, but, like so 
many of these limestone crags, was very rotten. 
As the glacier to the westward appeared mode- 
rately easy, we clambered down on to it, and 
worked our way up into the great basin just 
underneath the summit. A choice of routes 
then lay before us — either we could skirt under 
some overhanging ice-clifFs on our right up to 
the northern arete, or, by cutting up an ice-slope 

on our left, the north-eastern ridge could be 

105 



CLIMBS AND EXPLOHATION 

again reached. We chose the latter, and 

Woolley rapidly led me up on to the ridge ; 

but a very narrow and steep ice arete lay before 

us. At first there was sufficient snow to enable 

us to ascend by kicking steps, but soon Woolley 

was hard at work with the axe. For two hours 

almost without intermission was he cutting, and 

the ridge was almost too steep to allow us to 

change places. Finally we arrived at a small 

platform just underneath the precipitous rocks 

that guard the summit, only to find that they 

were perpendicular. By carefully skirting round 

their base to the right a narrow chimney was 

discovered. It was our last chance : either it 

had to be cUmbed, or we should return beaten. 

Owing to the excessively broken state of the 

limestone rock, produced probably by the great 

extremes of heat and cold, the chmbing was not 

difficult ; but there were many loose rocks that 

to avoid needed exceeding care. With much 

caution bit by bit we managed to climb up this 

narrow chimney, expecting to come out within 

easy reach of the summit ; but, as we gained the 

ridge, a wall of overhanging rock fifteen feet 

high seemed to bar further progress. After 

what we had gone through down below, 

fifteen feet, even though it did overhang, was 

1 06 



ATHABASCA PEAK 

not going to keep us from the top. How it was 
surmounted I have forgotten, but I remember 
how we saw the summit almost within a stone's- 
throw of us, and how at 5*15 p.m. we stepped 
on to it. By mercurial barometer its height is 
11,900 feet. 

The summit consists of a narrow ridge run- 
ning east and west. On the south side, about 
ten feet below this ridge, is a rocky platform 
from which the snows have melted, and which 
forms a sort of pathway along the whole ridge. 
On this platform we halted. The view that lay 
before us in the evening light was one that does 
not often fall to the lot of modern mountaineers. 
A new world was spread at our feet; to the 
westward stretched a vast ice-field probably 
never before seen by human eye, and surrounded 
by entirely unknown, unnamed, and unclimbed 
peaks. From its vast expanse of snows the 
Saskatchewan glacier takes its rise, and it also 
supplies the head-waters of the Athabasca ; while 
far away to the west, bending over in those 
unknown valleys glowing with the evening light, 
the level snows stretched, to finally melt and 
flow down more than one channel into the 
Columbia River, and thence to the Pacific 

Ocean. Beyond the Saskatchewan glacier to 

107 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the south-east, a high peak (which we have 
named Mount Saskatchewan) lay between this 
glacier and the west branch of the North Fork, 
flat-topped and covered with snow, on its eastern 
face a precipitous wall of rock. Mount Lyell 
and Mount Forbes could be seen far off in the 
haze. But it was towards the west and north- 
west that the chief interest lay. From this 
great snow-field rose solemnly, like ' lonely sea- 
stacks in mid-ocean,' two magnificent peaks, 
which we imagined to be 13,000 or 14,000 feet 
high, keeping guard over those unknown western 
fields of ice. One of these, which reminded us 
of the Finsteraarhorn, we have ventured to name 
after the Right Hon. James Bryce, the then 
President of the Alpine Club. A little to the 
north of this peak, and directly to the westward 
of Peak Athabasca, rose probably the highest 
summit in this region of the Rocky Mountains. 
Chisel-shaped at the head, covered with glaciers 
and snow, it also stood alone, and I at once 
recognised the great peak I was in search of; 
moreover, a short distance to the north-east of 
this mountain, another, almost as high, also flat- 
topped, but ringed round with sheer precipices, 
reared its head into the sky above all its fellows. 

"At once I concluded that these might be 
io8 



ATHABASCA PEAK 

the two lost mountains, Brown and Hooker. As 
rapidly as I could I drew lines in all directions 
on my plane-table survey towards these peaks, 
and put up my mercurial barometer ; but, hurry 
as fast as I could, it was 6*30 p.m. before we 
started down from the summit. WooUey's 
patience must have been sorely taxed, but he 
endured the waiting and the cold with character- 
istic fortitude. I was not at all anxious to 
return by the way we had ascended, for it was 
too difficult to allow of any undue haste being 
made. I therefore suggested that we should 
follow the rocky platform on the summit, and 
see how far down the north-western arete it 
would lead. Moreover, I thought that I had 
sufficiently reconnoitred a route down this arete 
while Woolley was cutting ice-steps towards the 
final summit. At first our new route was all we 
could wish, and a run down 500 feet of snow 
quickly took us clear of the summit ; but soon 
the arete narrowed, with rock precipices on the 
left and ice-slopes on the right hand. Moreover, 
the rock was of the loosest possible kind, and the 
ridge broken in places by perpendicular drops, 
which we had to get down or turn as best we could. 
Daylight was rapidly going, and we were by no 

means clear of difficulties ; but just as the last 

109 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

colours of the sunset faded out the sky, the more 
or less level ice of the glacier was reached. 
Stumbling down the mountain side, over stones 
and through bushes, we reached the forest ; 
where we had a terrible struggle with fallen 
trunks, muskegs, and tangled brushwood : and 
finally got back to camp at eleven, where we 
found Stutfield sitting up for us, and striving to 
allay the growing fears of the men for our safety." 

Meanwhile the rest of the outfit had not 
been idle, as the reader may gather from the 
following notes out of Stutfield's diary : " Im- 
mediately after breakfast WooUey and Collie 
left. It was with somewhat of a heavy heart 
that I saw them go, for I knew they would 
have a splendid climb, and, having been out 
three weeks without seeing a single head of 
game, I was beginning to despair of ever finding 
anything to shoot. Shouldering our rifles, Peyto 
and I, with Nigel, walked up through the woods 
in a northerly direction on to a grassy plateau 
about 8000 feet above sea-level. Ahead of us was 
the pass traversed by Mr. Wilcox on his jour- 
ney to the Athabasca in 1896. As there is no re- 
cord of any previous traveller having crossed this 
pass, Collie has named it, and an adjoining peak 
about 10,000 feet high, Wilcox Peak and Pass. 

I lO 



THE BIGHORN HUNT 

" Let me try and picture to you the scene. 
A mile or two of grassy uplands, broken only 
by knolls and benches of rock, were hemmed in 
by barren hills of moderate height. Westwards, 
reminding me somewhat of the Mont Blanc 
range, rose the great unknown chain of the 
northern Rockies, whose mysteries we hoped 
shortly to explore if only Providence and my 
Mauser rifle sent us meat. Northwards was a 
black scarped rock-peak, with a curious snow 
cap, or crown, of great thickness. To the south 
the dazzling glaciers of Athabasca Peak glittered 
in the noontide sun, and somewhere in that sea 
of burnished silver I knew were two black 
specks representing Collie and Woolley, and I 
only wished I were with them. Altogether it 
was an ideal hunting-ground for a person of 
lazy habits and artistic leanings, as the walking 
was easy and you could not break your neck if 
you tried. It struck me it would make a splen- 
did preserve for some Trust magnate or wealthy 
stockbroker, or other of those favoured mortals 
who seem destined, by the decrees of an all-wise 
Providence, to rule the world in these later days. 
My only doubt was whether there was anything 
to shoot, as ten minutes' careful spying failed to 

reveal any trace of bighorn ; and Peyto pre- 

III 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

sently left us to hunt on his own account round 
the base of Peak Wilcox. Half-an-hour was 
next spent in stoning a covey of ptarmigan, out 
of which we bagged two and a half brace. My 
scepticism as to the existence of sheep was deep- 
ening every minute, when suddenly my unbelief 
was cured by the sight of quite fresh tracks, 
and a few minutes later we saw the animals that 
made them. 

" The bighorn is a grand beast. A full-grown 
ram will occasionally scale over 250 lb. ; and his 
long legs, smooth tawny coat — of hair, not wool 
— and graceful carriage are suggestive much 
more of an antelope than a sheep. There were 
eighteen of them, mostly ewes and lambs, but I 
made out some rams with fairly good heads. It 
was now past midday, and the sheep presently 
settled down for their noontide siesta ; but the 
ground was too open for a stalk, so we lay there 
watching them for about two hours. The ewes 
reposed on the rocks, occasionally rising to see 
if the coast was clear, while the lambs gamboUed 
around them. Their proceedings were much 
more decorous than those of chamois on similar 
occasions, and there was none of that mad 
skipping and jumping about in which the little 
antelope of the Alps indulges. The time passed 

112 



THE BIGHORN HUNT 



quickly enough, for I know nothing more de- 
lightful than watching game among great 
mountains, preparatory to a stalk. 

" At last the sheep got up and went off, and 
Nigel was for following them at once ; but, 
remembering how in chamois-hunting the old 
doe sentinel of the herd always pops up when 
you least expect her and spoils your stalk, I 
waited a little. Sure enough, in five minutes 
the head of an old ewe appeared over a rock, and 
she had a good look round to see if the coast 
was clear. We gave them another hour, and then 
followed them up an open valley towards a lake 
that lay at the foot of a high snow-clad peak, 
of which Nigel is now the eponymous hero, and 
found them browsing on a grassy knoll sloping 
down to the water's edge. It was now past four 
o'clock, so I decided to attempt a stalk, leaving 
Nigel to watch the sheep and signal to me if 
they shifted their position. Making a long 
detour I came across two more sheep, and 
stalked them — luckily, as it turned out — with- 
out success. They either winded or saw me, 
and made off at top speed. Meanwhile the 
main herd must have seen me, as they again 
moved on past the lake and up a valley. Hop- 
ing to cut them off, I scrambled up the stony 

113 H 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

hillside as fast as my legs would carry me, and, 
after a long crawl over some horribly sharp 
stones, managed to get within range. There 
were now two herds, browsing peacefully in a 
hollow — the bulk of them about two hundred 
yards off, and two rams with heads that made 
my mouth water seventy or eighty yards farther. 
I longed to have a shot at the latter, but, re- 
membering that we were out, not for pleasure 
but for meat, I resisted the temptation. 

" Shooting for the pot has an interest of its 
own which the man who kills only for sport can 
never know. I don't suffer from *buck fever' 
as a rule, but, knowing how much depended on 
the shot, I felt horribly nervous. There would 
be winged words flying round the camp that 
evening if I missed, and, worse than that, it 
would mean the failure of the trip. However, 
the first shot struck the nearest bighorn, and 
in the ensuing skedaddle I wounded three 
others. Such slaughter was most regrettable, 
but the circumstances in which we were placed 
left me no alternative. Following one of the 
wounded sheep up the hill, I had fired my last 
remaining cartridge at it and missed, when I 
heard a rattle among the stones, and, looking 

round, I saw behind a big boulder, two or three 

114 



THE BIGHORN HUNT 

yards off, a large ewe with her lamb. Whether 
she had never seen a human being before, or was 
scared out of her wits by the firing — she did not 
seem to be wounded, and the other sheep were 
wild enough — I cannot tell, but there she stood 
stock still, looking at me out of her big, sad, 
liquid eyes in a way that made me wish, for 
the moment at any rate, that somebody else 
had to act as * mutton-murderer ' for the outfit. 
After we had looked at each other in this way 
for a few minutes, I threw a pebble at them, 
and they trotted off quite quietly. 

" Nigel soon joined me, and with his revolver 
I polished off two of the cripples, which we 
gralloched ; but the approach of night compelled 
us to leave the third dead sheep as he lay, and 
make tracks homewards. It was past ten o'clock 
when we reached camp, very hungry after a ten 
hours' fast. Collie and Woolley had not re- 
turned, and our men were getting anxious, 
though I explained to them that when they 
got used to the ways of climbers they would 
cease to feel alarmed when a party did not 
turn up for dinner. None the less I was very 
glad when the flicker of a lantern, like a 
glow-worm through the wood, announced their 
approach." 

115 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



Altogether, this had been a red-letter day 
for us. Those blessed bighorn had saved the 
situation, for the present at any rate ; and the 
geographical results obtained by Collie and 
WooUey augured well for the success of the 
expedition. Next morning we got up late, 
and were having breakfast, when an exclamation 
from Nigel made us look up ; and on the verge 
of the perpendicular cliffs, some thousands of 
feet above us, we distinctly saw the heads and 
horns of four or five sheep, craning over the 
precipice, and apparently wondering what man- 
ner of creatures they were that had thus rudely 
disturbed them. During the rest of our journey 
we never saw a single bighorn or goat, or any 
description of large game except one bear. 

WooUey and Collie rested that day after their 
labours, while Peyto, Nigel, and Stutfield went 
up to the lake and brought down the mutton ; 
but in spite of a careful search they failed to find 
the wounded bighorn. In the evening a con- 
clave was held as to our next expedition. We 
wanted, of course, to explore the newly dis- 
covered ice-field ; and Collie thought that by a 
long day's work we might also ascend the great 
mountain he had seen from Athabasca Peak — 
which, it may here be mentioned, was subse- 
quently christened Mount Columbia. 



THE COLUMBIA ICE-FIELD 

The following afternoon we shouldered our 
packs, Roy and Nigel assisting, and bivouacked 
as far up the right bank of the Athabasca Glacier 
as possible. Roy and Nigel had never been on 
a glacier before, so they came for a walk with us 
on the ice, and were much interested by what 
they saw. All night long a thunder-storm kept 
growling, and the lightning played over the 
summits of the mountains to the north. The 
flying rack scudded across the face of the moon, 
as we lay awake listening to the stones trickling 
down the dirty ice- cliff below us, the loud 
murmur of the torrents, now rising in volume, 
now falling, with the varying gusts of wind, and 
the occasional roar of an avalanche tumbling 
down the sides of Athabasca Peak. We rose 
at 1*30 A.M., and started by lantern-light up the 
glacier. Dawn broke at length in a dark and 
lowering sky. The glacier was easy enough to 
begin with, but gradually the crevasses, growing 
wider and more numerous, kept us dodging 
about backwards and forwards without making 
much progress, until we almost fancied we 
were threading the ice-maze of the Col du 
Geant. The Athabasca Glacier descends from 
the upper snow-fields in three successive ice- 
falls, the highest one being very much crevassed. 

117 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

Through the mazes of this upper ice-fall we 
slowly made our way, zigzagging between the 
seracs, or ice-pinnacles, and innumerable cre- 
vasses. The latter were unsurpassably fine. 
Huge chasms of immense depth yawned beneath 
us on every side, branching out below into 
mysterious caverns and long winding grottoes, 
their sides tinged with that strangely beautiful 
glacial blue, and festooned with enormous icicles. 

We had been going nearly five hours when 
we emerged on to the upper glacier, and the 
wonders of that vast region of snow and ice 
were unfolded to our view. To Stutfield it was 
all new ; for neither the great glacier nor the 
high peaks on its western side are visible from 
Wilcox Pass or Wild Sheep Hills: and the 
upper rim of the ice-fall was to him as the thres- 
hold of the unknown. We stood on the edge 
of an immense ice-field, bigger than the biggest 
in Switzerland — that is to say, than the Ewige 
Schneefeld and the Aletsch Glacier combined — 
which stretched mile upon mile before us like a 
rolling snow-covered prairie. The peaks, we 
noticed, were all a long way off, and sparser and 
fewer in number than in the Alps, rising only 
here and there like rocky islets from a frozen 

sea. Westwards the magnificent Finsteraarhorn- 

ii8 



Mount Columbia 




Diadem Peaks from Wild Sheep Hills 



THE COLUMBIA ICE-FIELD 

like mountain (Mount Bryce) sent its three 
peaks high into the air. North of it the goal of 
our ambition, that great glacier-clad, wedge- 
shaped peak, Mount Columbia, loomed grand 
and mysterious through the still prevailing 
smoke-haze. A double-headed mountain on the 
north hid the high rock peak (afterwards named 
by us Mount Alberta) which Collie, when on 
the top of Athabasca Peak, thought might be 
Mount Brown. The weather was very sultry, 
and thunder was in the air ; for several hours we 
tramped steadily on over the almost level ice- 
field, but Mount Columbia proved to be much 
further off than it looked. The ascent, we 
saw, would be quite easy — merely a long snow- 
grind — but we were still a long way even 
from its base. The weather was very threat- 
ening — it was now past noon, and we had 
already been going nine hours — so we decided 
to give it up. 

Before retracing our steps we halted aw^hile 
for lunch and to take stock of our surroundings. 
We were on the edge of a vast cirque, or amphi- 
theatre, of frowning precipices, over which 
masses of ice from the glacier on which we stood 
were continually falling. This amphitheatre is 

formed by Mount Columbia and two fine peaks, 

119 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

one rocky, the other snow-covered, which we 
have called The Twins ; and it is here that the 
western branch of the Athabasca River takes 
its rise. 

Meanwhile the thunder-clouds gathered, the 
haze grew denser, and the peaks loomed dim and 
ghostly through the pervading murkiness. Our 
view was largely spoiled, but, as a compensation, 
the sense of vastness and mystery was enhanced 
— and in travelling through a new mountain 
country the sense of mystery is everything. 
The spell that once was upon the Alps has been 
broken ; the illusion and the mystery that for- 
merly enshrouded them have departed, never to 
return ; and with the illusion has gone much of 
the awe and reverence they used to inspire. Far 
otherwise is it with the wajrfarer through unsur- 
veyed and untrodden lands or mountains. He 
feels, as he never felt before, the silence and the 
solitude of the everlasting hills. Expectation is 
for ever on the alert at each new point of van- 
tage gained ; and, as the climber presses upwards 
towards some untrodden peak or pass, there is a 
quite absorbing fascination in wondering what 
there is on the other side. One of our party, by 
the way, who shall be nameless, made an obser- 
vation somewhat to this effect to an American 

I20 



THE COLUMBIA ICE-FIELD 

widow one day, and she replied, with a fascinat- 
ing sigh, " Ah ! yes, life mostly consists of that 
— wondering what there is on the other side." 
And she was alluding to things temporal, rather 
than eternal ! 

But to return to our muttons. To the east- 
ward of where we stood, and almost on our way 
home, rose a great white dome, and we deter- 
mined to ascend it. After a hot and very tiring 
climb through snow that broke under our feet 
at every step, we finally reached the summit at 
3*15 P.M. We have named this peak The Dome 
(11,650 feet). Another peak to the north Collie 
named Peak Douglas, after the botanist David 
Douglas who discovered Mount Hooker and 
Mount Brown. The Dome is not a very striking 
mountain in itself, but hydrographically regarded 
it is of great interest. Viewed in this light it is 
the apex, as it were, of the Rocky Mountain 
Range, for the meltings of its snows descend into 
three great river-systems, flowing into three 
different oceans — to the Columbia and thence to 
the Pacific ; to Hudson's Bay via the Saskatche- 
wan ; and by the Athabasca to the Arctic Ocean. 

The thunder-clouds were now gathering thick 
on the high mountains, so we ran down the snow, 
as fast as the hidden crevasses permitted, to the 

121 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

head of the Athabasca ice-fall. The storm burst 
before we got off the glacier, and we reached 
camp at nightfall drenched to the skin. 

From what we had seen during the day, 
Collie's idea — that the great snow-clad peak 
(Columbia) and the imposing rock peak further 
to the north (Mount Alberta) were respectively 
the two lost giants. Brown and Hooker— did not 
receive any support, and we were more mystified 
than ever. As far as could be made out, there 
was no pass leading westwards between these 
two mountains ; and the western branch of the 
Athabasca River, whose source lay at the foot of 
these peaks, was hemmed in on all sides by the 
loftiest peaks in the Canadian Rockies. More- 
over, Stutfield, while hunting on Wild Sheep 
Hills next day, had an unusually clear view of 
the mountains to the north, and made a rough 
but careful sketch of them ; and the result of his 
observations seemed to be that there was no pass 
between any of the peaks near the supposed 
Brown and Hooker by which any animal less 
active than a goat could cross. The solution of 
the problem was, in fact, as far off as ever. 



122 



CHAPTER Vll 



TO THE VALLEY OF THE ATHABASCA, AND ASCENT 
OF DIADEM 

During the next two days we took things fairly 

easy, while we debated what our next move was 

to be. On the 23rd WooUey climbed Peak 

Wilcox (about 10,000 feet) with his camera, but 

the haze interfered seriously with photographing. 

Collie walked down the valley and ascended a 

range of hills which gave him a good view of 

Saskatchewan Peak and Glacier. The men spent 

their time usefully in making pemmican, or dried 

meat, out of our surplus stock of mutton, which 

was none too large. Stutfield, in the vain hope 

of adding to it, went hunting round the lower 

slopes of Athabasca Peak. At the foot of the 

great mountain he found a beautiful lake of 

emerald green, nestling in the woods : on the 

benches of grass above timber-line were numerous 

old game trails, now disused and overgrown with 

grass, but of remarkable depth, showing the 

quantities of game that must have existed in 

former days. Innumerable small gophers, or 

123 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

rock rabbits, were sitting on stones outside their 
holes. These conies are of different kinds, and, 
like those of Holy Writ, they have their habita- 
tion in the rocks. One of them, a queer little 
tailless fellow, with long ears and nose, is very 
tame and emits a strange squeaking noise like an 
old-fashioned bicycle alarm. Marmots are as 
common as in the Alps, but they are smaller as a 
rule — though there is one large handsome variety, 
which is almost as red as a fox — and their whistle 
is less shrill and ear-piercing. A big, heavily 
built ground-squirrel is found in the woods, and 
in the brushwood above timber-line, with his 
smaller brother gophers and chipmunks. 

As a result of our deliberations we decided 
to move half the outfit over Wilcox Pass down 
into the main valley of the Athabasca in order, 
if possible, to find the Athabasca Pass and the 
lost Punch Bowl. We imagined they might be 
only two or three days' journey distant : now we 
know that it would have taken us at least a 
fortnight to get there. 

On August 24th, we started with a few 

horses and a couple of small tents, leaving poor 

Roy Douglas alone to look after the remainder 

of the camp. Across the watershed a rapid 

descent took us down to the eastern Athabasca 

124 



THE ATHABASCA VALLEY 

or Sun Wapta. The hill-sides in the wood were 
so steep in places that the horses were con- 
tinually slipping and sliding down on their 
haunches ; and the packs, though light, were 
frequently dislodged. The Athabasca, like so 
many of the rivers in this district, has filled the 
bottom of the valley with an ugly bare shingle- 
flat, which, however, we found very convenient 
for travelling purposes. The general features of 
the scenery were less attractive than those of the 
charming vale we had just left, though the 
mountains were on a bigger scale here, and 
Athabasca Peak nobly filled the head of the 
glen. We had hoped to find some lateral valley 
by which we could reach the foot of Mount 
Columbia or Alberta ; but the mountains fall on 
their eastern face in a continual line of precipices, 
intersected only at places by quite impassable 
ice-falls. Accordingly, after a long day's march, 
during which we descended the bed of the river 
for some miles, we camped at the mouth of a 
gorge, down which a good-sized creek tumbled 
in a picturesque cascade. Our men, ever hun- 
gering after gold, spent the next morning pros- 
pecting, finding a little black sand and some 
quartz that showed a few traces. 

In the afternoon we made preparations for a 
125 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

bivouac, with a view to climbing some peak of the 
main range to the west. It was thought that a 
horse might be requisitioned to carry our provi- 
sions and sleeping-bags up the canyon, as the 
elevation of our camp was only 5600 feet ; but 
the suggestion evoked such strong opposition 
(and language) from Pe5rto that it was promptly 
abandoned, and we had to make beasts of burden 
of ourselves and him. The creek issues from a 
glacier descending from a group of mountains 
lying between two branches of the Athabasca 
River. This group has three principal summits, 
of which the northernmost (Diadem we called it) 
is the curious snow- crowned peak we had seen 
from Wild Sheep Hills. The central and 
highest summit was subsequently named by 
Collie after Woolley, and the third after Stut- 
field. These two last mountains appeared to 
have been conducting themselves in a most 
erratic manner in bygone ages. A tremendous 
rock-fall had evidently taken place from their 
ugly bare limestone cliffs ; and the whole valley, 
nearly half a mile wide, was covered to a depth 
of some hundreds of feet with boulders and 
debris. What had happened, apparently, was 
this. The immense amount of rock that had 

fallen on the glacier below Peak Stutfield had 

126 



Gorge in Sun Wapta Valley 




From the Slopes of Dl\dem Peak (Looking South) 



THE ASCENT OF DIADEM 



prevented the ice from melting. Consequently 
the glacier, filling up the valley to a depth of at 
least two hundred feet, had moved bodily down ; 
and its snout, a couple of hundred feet high, 
covered with blocks of stone the size of small 
houses, was playing havoc with the pine-woods 
before it and on either side. In our united ex- 
periences, extending over the Alps, the Caucasus, 
the Himalaya, and other mountain ranges, we 
had never seen indications of a landslide on so 
colossal a scale.^ 

We selected a spot for our bivouac at the 
foot of the Diadem glacier, and slept soundly 
on our beds of heather and pine twigs till we 
were woke by the rain pattering down on our 
sleeping-bags. The weather had changed for 
the worse, and the pale, sickly light of a most 
unpromising dawn had overspread the sky when 
we left the sleeping-place, with the intention 
of climbing Mount Woolley. Our idea was 
to ascend a steep glacier by means of a some- 
what formidable ice-fall that descended between 
Mount Woolley and Diadem. All went well 
as far as the foot of the ice-fall, when a black 
thunder- cloud that had been gathering over 
Mount Columbia burst, and heavy rain drove 

1 The remains of a similar landslide were afterwards noticed 
blocking the outlet to Moraine Lake in Desolation Valley. 

127 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

us to seek the shelter of a friendly rock. In 
five minutes it cleared ; but the brief delay was 
possibly our salvation. We were just putting 
on the rope to ascend the ice-fall, when, with 
a roar and a clatter, some tons of ice that had 
broken off near the summit came tumbling down, 
splintering into fragments in their descent. We 
took the friendly hint, and left that ice-fall alone. 
The only alternative peak was Diadem, so we 
turned aside and began climbing its face. 

At first we had to make our way up slopes 
of loose shale and ice, and we kept fairly near 
the arete to avoid falling stones. This in- 
volved us in a scramble up some rather divert- 
ing rock chimneys ; after which a sort of 
miniature rock-rib gave us safety from stones, 
and we followed it up to the summit. The 
rocks were very steep in places, and, as usual, 
terribly insecure and splintered, and one had 
to be very careful. The " diadem " of snow 
proved to be about a hundred feet high, set 
on the nearly flat top of the rocks. From the 
summit a wonderful panorama burst upon us, 
in spite of the murky atmosphere. Standing 
as we were, near the Great Divide, we looked 
dow^n on a marvellous complexity of peak and 

glacier, of low-lying valley, shaggy forest, and 

128 



ASCENT OF DIADEM 

shining stream, with here and there a blue 
lake nestling in the recesses of the hills. Quite 
close, as it seemed, the overpowering mass of 
the supposed Mount Brown (Alberta), towered 
frowning many hundreds of feet above us. It 
is a superb peak, like a gigantic castle in shape, 
with terrific black cliffs falling sheer on three 
sides. A great wall of dark thunder-cloud 
loomed up over its summit ; and there was a 
sublime aloofness, an air of grim inaccessibility, 
about it that was most impressive. To the 
west we could dimly discern the outline of 
another high peak, with a large grey cloud 
floating like a canopy over it. Northwards 
the mountains were all much lower ; and it 
was evident that the Columbia group formed 
the culmination of, at any rate, this region of 
the Rockies. In these northern districts the 
landscape, as was to be expected, presented a 
sterner and more forbidding aspect : indeed, 
the softer and more homely features of Alpine 
scenery were everywhere absent from these 
higher valleys of the western Athabasca. One 
missed the tiny green pastures dotted about 
with brown chalets, the terraced cornfields and 
vineyards ; and the familiar tinkle of the cow- 
bells would have sounded more musical than 

129 I 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



ever in our ears, for, as Mr. Leslie Stephen 
observes in " The Playground of Europe," these 
evidences of civilisation tend to improve rather 
than spoil mountain scenery. 

It was bitterly cold on the top, but we 
stopped some time to enable Collie to make 
his plane - table survey and read the patent 
mercurial barometer, which gave the height as 
11,500 feet. All day long there had been a 
growling of distant thunder in the west, and 
as we turned to go down the storm burst 
upon us with a vengeance. It grew very 
dark ; a white driving scud of sleet and hail 
swept by on the whistling wind, making our 
ears and faces tingle. The thunder rattled and 
roared in grand style among the crags ; the air 
was aboil with eddying twisting vapours ; and the 
lightning leaping, as it were, from peak to peak, 
zigzagged merrily athwart the sky. More than 
once we were constrained to stop and take 
shelter from the drift and sweep of the storm, 
throwing aside our ice-axes for fear of the light- 
ning, which seemed to be playing all round us. 
We took the easiest way down the face, taking 
chances with falling stones ; and it was with a 
feeling of rehef that we ultimately got on to 

the glacier below. In the woods another bad 

130 



ASCENT OF DIADEM 

storm struck us, with hailstones as big as — 
well, of the usual travellers' size — anyhow they 
hurt very much when they hit you, and again 
we ran down into camp like three drowned 
rats. During the night there were more thun- 
der-storms — we had five in twenty-four hours — 
and the drippings from our leaky tent soaked 
our already damp sleeping-bags ; but we slept 
soundly through it all. 

It was a dreary spectacle that greeted us 
next morning as we looked out on the ugly 
grey shingle-flat, the wet camp, and dripping 
woods and muskegs, and the hill-sides covered 
with mist. There was nothing to be gained 
by pushing further into these inhospitable wilds, 
even supposing we had had the time or pro- 
visions to do it ; so the wet tents were struck, 
and we returned over Wilcox Pass. Our pro- 
visions were again getting very low, so Stutfield 
left the outfit at the summit of the pass and 
climbed Wild Sheep Hills in search of bighorn. 
There was not a sheep to be seen anywhere ; 
and from the hill-tops he looked down north- 
wards on a scene of the most extraordinary 
desolation. Not a tree or trace of vegetation 
was visible — nothing but mountains of naked 
rock and shale, alternating with patches of snow 

131 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

and ice, and one small lake. What was most 
curious, however, was the varied colour of these 
mountains, which were striped in places like a 
blanket, and splashed, as it were, with all the 
hues of the rainbow — an almost exact counter- 
part of the multi-coloured clays that adorn the 
sides of the Yellowstone Canyon. 

We found everything right in the camp 
below, and Roy, as may be imagined, was 
delighted to see us back. The commissariat 
question was again becoming pressing, as some 
of the mutton had gone bad in our absence, so 
we decided to make tracks homewards without 
further delay. In the hope of restocking the 
larder, Peyto and Stutfield took their rifles and, 
mounting their horses, cantered on ahead of the 
outfit down the valley. Arriving at the junction 
of the streams, they rode up the one which 
descends from the pass over into the Brazeau 
Valley. On the way they found a considerable 
tract of forest on fire, the charred tree-trunks 
and half-consumed foliage presenting a curious 
patchwork of green and black, while the peaty 
earth was still smouldering and emitting volumes 
of smoke. It appeared that two of our men had 
left the outfit to go " hunting " on the way up ; 

and, having shot a fool-hen, they had carelessly 

132 



HEAD-WATERS OF THE BRAZEAU 

omitted to perform the first duty of every back- 
woodsman — namely, thoroughly to extinguish 
the embers. Had it not rained heavily during 
the previous week we should probably have 
found the whole valley ablaze, and our retreat, 
perhaps, down the Saskatchewan cut off, which 
would have been a cheerful prospect for a party 
with next to nothing to eat. 

The frequent, and often wanton, destruction 
of the forests in the Canadian Rockies by fire 
is most deplorable. Sometimes they are set 
alight on purpose by prospectors in order to clear 
the ground, but nine times out of ten the fires 
are the result of sheer carelessness. There are 
severe penalties attaching to the offence, but, as 
evidence is very difficult to obtain, convictions 
are extremely rare. The result is that the 
scenery is spoiled, men's lives endangered, much 
fine timber wasted, and trails rendered almost 
useless for years to come. 

After putting out the fire as well as they 
could, Peyto and Stutfield pushed on to the 
summit of the pass. Tethering the horses a 
little lower down, they descended on foot some 
distance along the stream of the upper Brazeau, 
which here flows through a pleasant valley, with 
low rounded hills, prettily wooded, on either side, 

133 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

somewhat resembling parts of North Wales. 
Not much appears to be known about this dis- 
trict, but it is said to abound in game — ^the 
hunting would be even easier than on Wild 
Sheep Hills — and the streams are full of trout. 
Stutfield and Peyto saw a good many sheep 
tracks, but no game ; and returned to camp 
empty-handed, and once more soaked to the 
skin by a heavy thunder-shower. 

Next morning was gloriously fine, and, as 
the camp was pitched near the junction of the 
streams, we had a last splendid view of Athabasca 
Peak up the western branch. We made a forced 
day's march down the North Fork of the Saskat- 
chewan, so as to reach our cache of provisions at 
Bear Creek as soon as possible. The tents were 
pitched in a most undesirable spot, among a 
cluster of burned trees on the verge of falling, 
some of them being so rickety that a push of 
the hand sent them over. It was a good thing 
for us that the wind did not start blowing that 
night. We were now on very short commons, 
having no fresh meat and very little bread. The 
poor dogs were absolutely starving, and we had 
to keep a sharp look-out to prevent them from 
stealing our scanty remnants of food. We had 
a few scraps of biltong, or dried meat, left which 

134 



DOWN THE NORTH FORK 

we sucked when very hungry. It is very sus- 
taining but highly indigestible, and in appearance 
the reverse of appetising. When the first morsel 
was put before us on a plate we thought that 
that mad wag, Byers, was serving the outfit with 
the uppers of Peyto's boots, which had recently 
shown signs of disintegration. The biltong 
keeps wonderfully well ; and some pieces that 
we have preserved as a memento are still, after 
a lapse of nearly five years, perfectly fresh. 

It rained all next day, and we had perforce 
to remain where we were, chewing the cud of 
disappointed anticipation. There was one sar- 
dine left, and two anchovies ; and we reserved 
three small crusts for breakfast on the morrow. 
Luckily the morning broke fine, and we pushed 
on as hard as we could down the left bank of 
the river, hustling the cayooses for all we were 
worth. As a result, this was the longest day's 
march we ever accomplished, and we passed no 
fewer than five camps that we had made on the 
other side when ascending the valley. Arriving 
at the main stream of the Saskatchewan, we 
forded it without much trouble below the mouth 
of the North Fork, the cold weather having 
greatly reduced the volume of water. Bear 
Creek offered no difficulty. As we neared the 

135 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

cache we naturally felt somewhat nervous about 
our provisions ; and Collie tried to alarm the 
party by drawing lurid pictures of a band of 
Indians gorged with our bacon and roaring 
drunk on our whisky ; but we found everything 
just as we had left it. Probably no one had 
passed that way during our absence. In any 
case, provisions are very rarely stolen from 
caches, as the enormity of the offence is gener- 
ally recognised. In former days the penalty 
was death ; and even now it is very severe. 

That evening we feasted on bacon, dried 
apricots, and other deMcacies that we had been 
talking about for some time past. In civihsed 
countries it is not the custom to spend a large 
portion of the day thinking and often talking 
about food. But, given an individual with a 
good healthy appetite, and an insufficient supply 
of edible material to satisfy that appetite, an 
interesting exhibition will ensue of how the 
body can tyrannise over the mind. A natural 
result followed after we had had our first 
" good square meal " : we did not move the 
camp for two days. By way of passing the 
time, and to supply the larder, the next after- 
noon we prowled singly through the woods after 

fool-hen. The total bag amounted to five brace. 

136 



FORESTS OF BEAR CREEK 

The woods surrounding the camping-ground 
at Bear Creek are exceptionally fine — for the 
eastern side of the Rockies — and some of the 
trees are of great height. One wants to be 
alone to fully appreciate the mystery and the 
utter sohtude of these great forests. It is less 
agreeable, doubtless, to be by oneself ; but the 
impressions created are deeper and more en- 
during. It is then that is borne in upon you 
the silence and the immensity of an African 
desert, the utter lonehness of the Canadian back- 
woods, or the solemnity of the great mountain 
peaks. In the Rockies the scarcity of bird and 
animal life serves to intensify the sense of soh- 
tude ; and the traveller may walk for hours 
without hearing a sound except the roar of some 
distant avalanche or torrent, the soughing of the 
wind in the tall pines, and the creaking of their 
gigantic limbs. Imagination, too, plays strange 
pranks at times, as the stray sunbeams dance on 
the green moss, and the play of hght and shade 
caused by the swaying branches peoples the 
dark recesses with phantom shapes and figures 
that are curiously Hfe-hke and distinct. You 
could fancy there were elves and fairies in those 
long glades dappled with alternate sunhght and 
shadow, kelpies in the foam of the rushing 

137 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

torrents, or that goblins haunted the cavernous 
tree-trunks. However, the whirr of a fool-hen's 
wings, as he rises from the ground and perches 
on a bough, so as to enable you to knock him 
over with a stick, is sufficient to dispel these 
reveries ; and you promptly devote yourself to 
the more serious business of securing him for 
supper. 

Next morning, Friday the 2nd September, 
we attempted to ascend Mount Murchison. 
After a very bad hour with the logs in the 
wood, we got out into the open above the trees ; 
but the weather gave us little encouragement. 
A tiring shale-slope led up to steep rocks which 
afforded some interesting scrambles, WooUey 
manipulating a big stone jammed in a rock 
chimney with much skill. We halted for lunch 
on the arete at a height of about 9000 feet. 
It was snowing steadily, and the mountains were 
enveloped in mist, so we had no view to speak 
of ; but below us two remarkable phenomena 
attracted our attention. The first was a tall 
column of rock that had become detached from 
the cliff, forming a slender pillar four or five 
hundred feet in height, and tapering towards 
the summit and base. Much more extraordi- 
nary, however, was a group of rocks, consisting, 

138 



FOSSIL FOUEST 

as it seemed, of petrified stems of pine-trees 
that had been broken off about a foot from the 
ground, with numerous fossilised remains around 
their base. It has been suggested, however, 
that they are not trees at all, but the remains 
of some gigantic prehistoric sea-weed. In any 
case, whatever they are, their existence at so 
great a height above sea-level, and in so ex- 
cellent a state of preservation, must be accounted 
very remarkable ; and we could wish that they 
might be visited and examined by some geolo- 
gist competent to give a thorough account of 
them. 

We remained some time on the arete in the 
hope that the weather might improve, but the 
snow and fog grew worse and worse, so the 
climb was abandoned and we returned to camp. 



^39 



CHAPTER VIII 



THOMPSON PEAK AND THE SELKIRKS 

The following day we pushed on, in cloudy 
weather, up Bear Creek valley towards the 
Bow Pass, camping on the shores of the beauti- 
ful Waterfowl Lake, at the foot of the grand 
cliffs of Pyramid and Howse Peak, which fall 
a sheer 5000 feet into the valley. On the 
Sunday (again our unlucky day) we were over- 
taken high up in the woods by violent hail- 
storms, followed by heavy snow, in which we 
lost the trail. After wandering about hopelessly 
among the burnt timber for some time we 
camped in a cold, slushy, miserable spot at the 
edge of a muskeg. WooUey sarcastically in- 
quired if this was a specimen of the Canadian 
Indian summer, of whose charms we had been 
hearing so much ; and we asked Byers if he could 
make us a plum-pudding for supper. We had 
a bitterly cold night, with hard frost, but the 
morning was brilliantly fine and the sun shone 
forth in a cloudless sky. Ice-crystals sparkled 

on every leaf and twig ; the pails and buckets 

140 



THOMPSON PEAK 

were all frozen hard ; and Byers, the unfailing 
humorist, asked for time to thaw his socks 
before he could put them on and give us our 
breakfast. At the summit of Bow Pass we 
left the outfit, and, ascending a hill on our 
right, had a glorious view of Mount Murchison, 
Pyramid, and the Waputehk Mountains. From 
the shores of Bow Lake, which formed our 
camping-ground that evening, we had the last 
climb of the trip. 

We got up early next morning, only to 
find a dog engaged in devouring our last loaf, 
on which we were relying to provide us with 
breakfast and provisions for the chmb. Follow- 
ing the northern shore of the lake, as on the 
ascent of Mount Gordon the previous year, we 
passed the mouth of a remarkable gorge, with 
a big jammed stone forming a natural bridge, 
and reached the foot of the Bow Glacier. The 
ice-fall proved troublesome, and four or five 
razor-edged aretes, connected by rickety ice- 
bridges, gave us some rather ticklish work. 
They did not last long, however, and soon we 
were on the neve of the Waputehk Glacier. 
We had no definite peak in our minds when 
we started, but we now decided on one that 

lies just to the north of the ice-fall. It was 

141 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

quite easy, but, as the slopes of the mountain 
consisted of loose stones covered with a layer 
of fresh powdery snow a foot and a half thick, 
there was a very fair chance of breaking a leg 
or spraining an ankle, and the ascent was fright- 
fully laborious. The summit is 10,700 feet 
high, and ColHe named it Thompson Peak, 
after Mr. C. Thompson. The recent rains had 
put out all the forest fires, and the air was 
beautifully clear, so for the first time during 
the trip we enjoyed an uninterrupted view. On 
every side, far as the eye could reach, the moun- 
tain world stretched. Taken individually, there 
are finer peaks to be seen elsewhere ; what 
impresses one in the Canadian Rockies is the 
sense of their seemingly endless continuity. 
Beginning southwards in this wonderful pano- 
rama, the first to catch the eye was Mount 
Assiniboine, the highest and finest summit south 
of the railway ; next on the right rose Mount 
Temple and the Laggan group ; the Ottertail 
Mountains, and a collection of unknown peaks ; 
the Selkirks, with Mount Sir Donald, seventy 
miles distant ; the Gold Range ; next, and much 
nearer. Mount Mummery and the Freshfield 
group ; Mount Forbes towering above all com- 
petitors ; the triple-peaked Mount Lyell partially 

142 




Thompson Peak 



SEMI-STARVATION 

obscuring Columbia and Bryce ; Peak Wilson 
and the Murchison group ; then the Slate 
Range, with innumerable minor summits ; while 
over all was a cloudless sky of more than Italian 
blue. 

Having no meat to speak of left, we had 
been living practically on bread and porridge ; 
and now, with the aid of the thievish dog, these 
were finished. Byers, anxious to find something 
to try his hand on, was seen casting wolfish eyes 
on Molly's little foal, who was looking nice and 
plump in spite of his long journey ; and it was 
a miserable meal that he set before us that 
evening. Collie improved the occasion by a 
short but impressive discourse on the chemical 
and nutritive properties of the scanty viands at 
our disposal ; while Stutfield asked what amount 
of albuminous nitrogen, or nitrogenous albumen 
(he wasn't sure, and didn't much care, which) 
there might be in a fool-hen's leg, which, he 
ruefully observed, was all the grub he seemed 
hkely to get for supper. 

Our short commons lasted till next evening, 
when we caught some nice trout in the Bow 
River. We were lucky to find them on the 
feed, as these Rocky Mountain trout are very 
capricious and often refuse to be tempted by 

143 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

any lure. Friday, the 9th September, was our 
last morning in camp. It afforded us a little 
mild excitement in the shape of a black bear, 
which was sighted on a hill across the river. 
Peyto and Stutfield at once saddled their horses, 
forded the river, and went in pursuit. The 
latter, hoping to stalk the bear from above, 
went straight up the face of the hill, keeping 
closely concealed in the brushwood, while Peyto, 
with his dog, made a detour to the right. A pufF 
of wind must have given the bear their wind, 
as the people in camp saw him make off to the 
left, passing quite close to Stutfield in the dense 
thicket; then chmb the hill, and gallop over a 
ridge some 8000 feet high. Stutfield, blissfully 
unconscious of what was going on, crept cau- 
tiously forward, only to find that the expected 
quarry had taken his departure. 

Our troubles were not yet over, as the burned 
timber in the woods above Laggan was worse 
than an}i:hing we had hitherto experienced. 
Woolley, taking his big camera, had gone off 
while the bear-hunt was in progress. Hoping 
to strike the trail further on, he plunged into 
the woods in search of photographs, but had a 
very bad time of it before he got out. Collie 

and Stutfield also went ahead of the caravan 

144 



THE SELKIRKS 



and lost the trail. The tangle of fallen tim- 
ber was something extraordinary. There were 
places where we walked for hundreds of yards 
on logs several feet from the ground, and we 
wondered when we should ever extricate our- 
selves. Nevertheless, our woes were nothing to 
those of poor WooUey, who had left the trail 
much further from home, and, cumbered with his 
heavy photographic apparatus, stumbled about 
among the logs until he was almost fagged out. 
However, the distant scream of a Canadian 
Pacific Railway locomotive at last told us that 
we were approaching the haunts of men ; and 
at five o'clock we found ourselves once more at 
Laggan railway station. The remainder of the 
outfit arrived an hour later, the men looking 
like chimney-sweeps after their battle with the 
burnt timber, and it was a marvel how they 
had managed to get through so quickly. 

At Laggan we bade a last farewell to our 
tents and horses, and returned to hotel hfe once 
more at Banff. Two days later we separated, 
Collie being obliged to return immediately to 
England, while WooUey started off on a short 
tour to Vancouver and the Pacific. Stutfield, 
loth to quit the mountains, and wishing to 
see something of the Selkirks, went to Glacier 

145 K 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

House and stayed there a week. The charms 
of this dehghtful Httle Canadian Pacific 
Railway hostel and its neighbourhood have 
been written of at length by Mr. Wilcox 
and others, so a detailed description is un- 
necessary. The hotel stands at the narrow 
entrance of a curious deep bay in the hills ; 
and few more striking effects can be seen 
anywhere than when, as the train emerges 
from the long dark snow-sheds — or, if the 
traveller is east-bound, after creeping round 
those wonderful loops in the line, and over 
the spider-legged trestle - bridges — the Great 
Glacier bursts into view, gleaming white amid 
the pines, with the splendid crags of Mount 
Sir Donald frowning down upon you. 

When Stutfield arrived, however, he found 
other and more pressing matters than the 
scenery to occupy his attention. The tracks 
of an enormous grizzly and her two cubs had 
just been discovered on the trail leading to 
the Asulkan Glacier, less than an hour's walk 
from the hotel. They had been made that 
morning or during the night, and were of 
quite remarkable size. One reads in the older 
travel-books of grizzlies' foot -prints almost as 

long as a man's fore-arm ; and the com- 

146 



A HUNT AFTER A GRIZZLY 

parison is hardly an exaggerated one. We 
carefully measured the marks with a piece of 
string, which unfortunately got lost; but they 
were certainly well over a foot in length, and 
broad in proportion.^ Much more extraordi- 
nary than their mere size, however, was the 
juxtaposition, in a patch of soft mud, of two 
tracks that offered a most curious contrast. 
Side by side, only a few inches apart, were 
the huge grizzly's spoor and the tiny imprint 
of a lady's smart Parisian shoe I The wearer 
of the shoe, a lady who is a frequent visitor at 
the Glacier House, had passed along the trail 
the preceding afternoon on a walk through the 
valley, and ursus horribilis must have followed 
a few hours later. 

We followed the tracks some way down 
the banks of the stream, until we lost them 
in the forest. Three days were spent in a 
hunt after the grizzly, fish and meat being 
hung on the trees for bait, but not a sign 
of it could be discovered. A couple of days 
later a very large bear, measuring nine feet 
from snout to tail, was shot with her two 
cubs near Rogers' Pass, three miles up the rail- 

^ Authentic measurements of a grizzly's paw given in ''Big 
Game Shooting" (Badminton Library Series) are — length of hind- 
footj 18 inches ; breadth of fore-foot, 12 inches. 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

way; and, as the tracks we had seen headed 
in that direction, this was no doubt the same 
beast. Bears, black, brown, and grizzly, are 
by no means uncommon in the Selkirks ; but 
hunting for them in those vast, dense, and 
trackless forests is like looking for the pro- 
verbial needle in a haystack. The Canadian 
Pacific Railway section men often see them 
crossing the railway ; and in winter they are 
occasionally shot from the windows of the 
hotel. They told us at Glacier of a funny 
adventure which befell two girls belonging to 
a party of " Christian Adventurers " who were 
making a tour through the country. Being 
greatly daring spirits, they had borrowed ice- 
axes from the hotel and gone for a walk 
alone up the lUecillewaet ice-fall. Descend- 
ing towards evening, they were about to leave 
the glacier by the only feasible way off the 
ice, when, to their horror, they saw an old 
she-grizzly and her cub on the moraine just 
in front of them. Not daring to advance, 
they remained on the glacier till near mid- 
night, when they were rescued by a search- 
party from the hotel. The ferocity of grizzly 
bears in these later days is nothing like what 

is represented in the older books on Rocky 

148 



THE SELKIRKS 

Mountain sport. Experience, probably, has 
taught them that their teeth and claws are 
no match for modern repeating rifles. Unless 
surprised at close quarters with their cubs, or 
when feeding on a carcase, they will very 
seldom attack a man: and in the Yellowstone 
Park, where Stutfield saw them in considerable 
numbers, they appear to be more shy even 
than the deer, and vanish the moment they 
catch sight of their human foes. 

The splendours of the forest and valley 
scenery in the Selkirks must be seen to be 
realised. A humid climate and a heavy rain- 
fall have clothed their sides with far nobler 
trees and a much more luxuriant vegetation 
than exists on the eastern slopes of the 
Rockies. They are seen at their best late in 
the season, when the Indian summer is at 
hand and the breath of autumn on the 
woods, and the somewhat garish gold of the 
maples, mingling with the deep russet of the 
rowans and the brilliant green of the thick 
mosses and ferns, forms a striking contrast to 
the sombre-hued masses of pines and cedars. 
A curious feature of the landscape in the 
Selkirks is that the higher you climb the 

less beautiful or imposing it becomes. True, 

149 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the glaciers are of immense extent; but the 
peaks, with the exception of Mount Sir 
Donald and a few others, are not parti- 
cularly striking, and the ordinary tourist has 
the best view of them from Glacier House, 
or from the windows of his railway carriage 
as the train, clinging to the precipitous sides 
of the deep gorges, creeps slowly round the 
vast rock buttresses and promontories of the 
mountain ranges. The real charm of the 
country lies in its supremely lovely woods 
and valleys ; and of these last the most 
beautiful, perhaps, is that of the Asulkan. 
Beyond the mountain - crests which rim the 
view from the bottom of this valley are 
vast glaciers whose meltings descend in in- 
numerable cascades flashing, jewel -like, amid 
the briUiant foHage. Owing to their briUiance 
of colouring the Selkirk forests, in spite of 
their vastness, are more cheerful than those 
of the Rockies ; and bird and animal Hfe is 
more abundant. 

The bear-hunting having proved a failure, 
Stutfield, before leaving, had a sohtary ramble 
by an unorthodox route up Eagle Peak, the 
mountain immediately facing the Glacier House. 

The summit (9400 feet) affords a magnificent 

150 



THE SELKJRKS 



view of Sir Donald, with a curious rock-tower 
in the foreground overhanging a precipice of 
immense depth. Rashly essaying a short cut 
down, he was forced to reascend a thousand feet, 
with the result that night overtook him at the 
edge of the forest. For six mortal hours, in 
pitchy darkness, he crawled down nearly 3000 
feet of steep, timber-choked mountain side, 
reaching the hotel well after midnight. This 
was the last climb of the season, and a few 
days later he journeyed by easy stages to 
England. 

After our return home we set to work to 
clear up the question of Mounts Brown and 
Hooker, and the origin of their apparently 
undeserved notoriety. Again, and with greater 
care. Collie looked up every reference he could 
find that dealt with the Rocky Mountains of 
Canada and British Columbia. At last he 
discovered a reference in Bancroft's " History 
of British Columbia" to the journal of David 
Douglas the naturalist, which had been pub- 
lished, together with a variety of other matter, 
in the Companion to the Botanical Magazine, 
vol. ii. pp. 134-7, by Dr. W. T. Hooker. 

The narrative deals with Douglas's journey 
to the Rockies and over the Athabasca Pass. 

151 



CLIMBS AND EXPLOHATION 

He started from Vancouver on March 20th, 
1827, and, travelHng via the Kettle falls and 
the Columbia River, reached Boat Encampment 
(now called Big Bend) on April 27th, and the 
summit of the Athabasca pass on May 1st at 
ten o'clock in the morning. To quote his 
journal : " Being well rested by one o'clock, I 
set out with the view of ascending what seemed 
to be the highest peak on the north. Its height 
does not appear to be less than 16,000 or 17,000 
feet above the level of the sea. After passing 
over the lower ridge I came to about 1200 
feet of by far the most difficult and fatigu- 
ing walking I have ever experienced, and the 
utmost care was required to tread safely over 
the crust of snow. A few mosses and lichens 
are observable, but at an elevation of 4800 feet 
(? 14,800 feet) vegetation no longer exists. The 
view from the summit is of too awful a cast 
to afford pleasure. Nothing can be seen, in 
every direction far as the eye can reach, except 
mountains towering above each other, rugged 
beyond description. . . . The majestic but 
terrible avalanches hurling themselves from the 
more exposed southerly rocks produced a crash, 
and groaned through the distant valleys with 

a sound only equalled by that of an earthquake. 

152 



MOUNT BROWN 

Such scenes give a sense of the stupendous and 
wonderful works of the Creator. This peak, 
the highest yet known in the northern con- 
tinent of America, I feel a sincere pleasure 
in naming * Mount Brown,' in honour of R. 
Brown, Esq., the illustrious botanist. ... A 
little to the southward is one nearly the same 
height, rising into a sharper point ; this I named 
Mount Hooker, in honour of my early patron, 
the Professor of Botany in the university of 
Glasgow. This mountain, however, I was not 
able to climb. *The Committee's Punch-Bowl' 
is a small circular lake twenty yards in diameter, 
with a small outlet on the west end, namely, 
one of the branches of the Athabasca." 

This, then, is the authentic account of the 
discovery of Mount Brown and Mount Hooker ; 
and to Professor Coleman belongs the credit of 
having settled with accuracy their real height. 
If Douglas climbed a 17,000 feet peak alone on 
a May afternoon, when the snow must have 
been pretty deep on the ground, all one can 
say is that he must have been an uncommonly 
active person. What, of course, he really did 
was to ascend the Mount Brown of Professor 
Coleman, which is about 9000 feet high. These 
two fabulous Titans, therefore, which for nearly 

153 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

seventy years have been masquerading as the 
monarchs of the Canadian Rockies, must now be 
finally deposed ; and Mounts Forbes, Columbia, 
and Alberta, with Peak Robson, west of the 
Yellowhead Pass, must reign in their stead. 
Moreover, the peaks and glaciers around the 
great Columbia ice-field, the scene of our wan- 
derings in the summer of 1898, are entirely new 
ground ; and, placed as they are, at the sources 
of three of the largest rivers in the Dominion, 
they probably constitute the culminating point 
of the Canadian Rocky Mountain system. 



154 



CHAPTER IX 



THE BUSH RIVER 

From what we had seen in the course of our 
cHmbs and investigations among the mountains 
of the Columbia group, it was evident that the 
finest and highest peaks lay well on the wes- 
tern side of the range ; and that their distance 
from any base camp in the Saskatchewan or 
the Athabasca valleys would render an ascent 
of any of them an exceedingly long and arduous 
undertaking. Mount Columbia might possibly 
be climbed, if an easy way could be found through 
the ice-fall of the Athabasca Glacier, from the 
site of our permanent camp near Wilcox Pass ; 
but Mounts Bryce and Alberta seemed quite 
out of the question. The idea, therefore, occurred 
to Stutfield of making another expedition next 
year with the view of climbing these peaks from 
their western side ; or, if that should prove im- 
practicable, of at any rate seeing something of 
the deep mysterious canyons and unexplored 
mountain country lying between the main chain 
of the Rockies and the Columbia River. We 

155 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

had obtained a fair knowledge on our 1898 trip 
of the eastern side and the centre of the range, 
but to the west lay an entirely unknown region. 

What, for instance, was there on the other side 
of the Freshfield, the Lyell, and the Columbia 
groups ? Were there great glaciers and further 
outlying mountains ? Did the valleys run 
straight to the Columbia, or, Hke those on the 
eastern side, lie parallel with the range ? Were 
the bottoms of these valleys underneath the high 
mountains three, four, five, or even six thousand 
feet above sea-level, Hke those on the opposite 
side ? and were there any passes over which 
an easy trail might be made? Some vague 
knowledge of these western mountain fastnesses 
had been acquired by Colhe and WooUey from 
the summit of Athabasca Peak. West of 
Mount Forbes they had seen a high mountain 
with glaciers on its flanks, and tipped with ice 
and snow. South of Mount Bryce there seemed 
to be also a gap in the range, darkened by dense 
woods, that apparently led from the west branch 
of the North Fork of the Saskatchewan, over 
the divide, to the lonely valleys of the west. 
Another high peak reared its head far into 
the sky westward of Mount Columbia ; and 
the immense expanse of the ice - field be- 

156 



THE BUSH RIVER 

tween Mounts Columbia and Bryce was seen 
gradually bending down westwards to a deep 
green valley filled with pine-woods and trend- 
ing in a southerly direction, whilst far away 
over several ranges of lesser peaks we thought 
we could see the valley of the Columbia running 
north-westwards parallel with the mountains. 

On his way back from Glacier House, there- 
fore, Stutfield stayed at Donald and made in- 
quiries as to the possibility of getting into the 
mountains from the valley of the Columbia. 
The information he gathered amounted to very 
little, only serving to illustrate the extraordinary 
ignorance that prevails concerning this region. 
For instance, people at Banff, who ought to 
have known better, stoutly maintained that 
there was no trail at all down the Columbia 
valley, whereas a good trail has always existed 
since the days when Boat Encampment, situ- 
ated at the Big Bend of the Columbia, was a 
mining centre. While Stutfield was at Donald, 
a prospector arrived, via the Athabasca Pass, 
with a pack-team of eighteen horses, from Tete 
Jaune Cache, a spot on the west of the Yellow- 
head Pass much frequented by trappers and 
prospectors in the olden days. He said there 
was a good trail down the Columbia all the way 

157 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

to Big Bend, and a fair one for a short distance 
up the left (south) bank of the Wood River. 
Of the country lying up towards the mountains 
he knew no more than any one else. All that 
could be learned was that the difficulties of travel 
would be far greater than on the eastern side — 
the rivers and muskegs more formidable, and the 
timber much denser — but this we knew before. 

The existing maps gave us little information, 
and that little afterwards proved to be mostly 
wrong. It had been Stutfield's idea to ascend 
the valley of the Wood River, up which he 
knew a trail existed for some distance, and at- 
tack the mountains from the north-west ; but 
Colhe was of opinion that the Bush River, 
supposing we could make a trail up it, would 
offer an easier route. It would certainly be 
much shorter in point of distance. Concerning 
this valley only the vaguest and most meagre 
details could be obtained. Tom Wilson of 
Banff made some inquiries for us at Donald, 
where he met a trapper who had been some 
way up the Bush River eight years before, and 
who seemed to be the only man with any know- 
ledge of the valley. This trapper was of opinion 
that the muskegs, the river, and the thick timber 
would make it very difficult, if not impossible, 

158 



fcd 



> 

X 

CQ 

W 
X 

2 



b 
w 

W 

Q 
O 

u 



THE BUSH RIVER 

for horses. Nor was this at all unlikely to be 
the case, for Dr. Hector had found great 
difficulty in forcing his horses down another 
of these western valleys, that of the Blae- 
berry Creek : and the trails were a good deal 
easier in his day. Wilson, also, had been 
obliged to abandon all his horses in the Blae- 
berry, only recovering them a week later by 
the aid of several men, who returned with 
him and eventually cut them out of the thick 
timber. In 1897, too. Baker and Collie had 
entirely failed to make their way down the 
same valley, and finally only escaped by 
traversing a new and high pass to Field on 
the south. 

To make a long story short, we finally 
made up our minds to tempt fate on the 
western side of the range, and the Bush 
River route was the one decided on; but it 
was not till the summer of 1900 that the 
expedition was undertaken. The 30th July of 
that year saw us once more on the Canadian 
Pacific Railway, en route from Banff to 
Donald. Mr. Woolley did not accompany 
us on this trip, being unable to spare the 
time: in his place came Mr. Sydney Spencer 
of Bath, an old climbing comrade of Stut- 

159 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

field's in the Alps. As we sat on the hard 
uncomfortable seats of the expectoration car — 
we beg pardon, we mean " observation car " ; but 
the former title is at least as appropriate — 
we had glimpses of the scenes of some of our 
former labours ; and, as the train crept down 
the tremendously steep descent to Field, we 
noted the change in the character of the 
trees and vegetation with a lively sense of 
trouble to come. At Golden the railway 
emerges from the valley of the Kicking 
Horse into that of the Columbia, which, flow- 
ing down a broad open strath, is navigable 
almost to its source, a hundred miles away. 
Lower down it enters a narrow rocky gorge 
in the mountains ; and the impression left on 
the traveller's mind, as he looks away from 
the mountains towards the comparatively open 
country to the south, is that the river is 
flowing the wrong w^ay. Golden is a place 
of some size, and in former days was the 
principal starting-point for the mining regions 
of the Kootenay. 

At Donald we found everything ready for 
us, the horses and baggage having been con- 
veyed thither by rail at immense expense. 

We were not long in noticing that there 

i6o 



THE BUSH RIVER 

were several changes in the personnel of the 
outfit. Bill Peyto was away serving his 
country in South Africa; and his place was 
taken by Fred Stephens, one of the best 
fellows it has ever been our good fortune to 
meet. The others were Charlie Bassett, axe- 
man ; C. Black, cook, who was with Colhe 
and Baker in 1897 ; and one Alistair Mac- 
Alpine, an amusing broth of a boy, who 
persisted in asserting he was a Scotchman in 
the richest brogue that ever cut the murky 
atmosphere of Belfast. There were also many 
new faces among the horses, but we re- 
cognised several old friends as well. The 
steady and prudent Pinto, eulogised of Wilcox 
and other travellers, the vivacious Girlie, old 
Molly with her bell, but without a foal on 
this occasion, and the gaunt and gallant Joe, 
were all there ; but we looked in vain for the 
fiery Buckskin, or the patient slow -moving 
Denny ; while Collie's old grey, jam rude 
donatus, had been relegated, they told us, to 
light carriage- work between Laggan and the 
Lake Louise chalet. Joe, it should here be 
mentioned, has made two separate voyages 
to the South African war and back, and is 

still alive and flourishing. On the whole, the 

i6i L 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



horses looked a better and more level lot 
than those of the 1898 outfit, and we were 
glad to see that there were more of them. 

The scenery at Donald, if not particularly 
striking, is very charming, and, hke the name 
of the place, has a distinctly Highland flavour. 
The surrounding hills are not of great height, 
but they have a decided individuality and 
boldness of form, while the predominance of 
the silver birches on their sides and along the 
banks of the smooth-flowing Columbia helps 
to recall memories of Scotland. The place 
had undergone a sad change for the worse 
since Stutfield's last visit, the Canadian Pacific 
Railway people having removed their engine- 
shops and works to Field, which is now the 
repairing section for this part of the line : the 
inhabitants had nearly all left, and remnants 
of furniture, old tools, and other implements 
were lying scattered round the now empty 
log- cabins. 

Soon after noon everything was ready, and 

the outfit got under weigh. Our start was 

a very bad one. Bassett was essaying to 

mount a piebald cayoose, when the brute 

reared and fell back on him, inflicting such 

serious injuries that he had to be sent back 

162 



THE COLUMBIA TRAIL 

to Banff, where he remained three weeks in 
hospital. So we lost our best axeman, whose 
services would afterwards have been invaluable 
in the dense forests through which we had to 
cut our way. Colhe and Fred Stephens re- 
mained behind to put poor Bassett on the 
east-bound train, giving instructions to one 
of the conductors to look after him. The 
rest of the outfit made a short day's march 
along the Columbia trail, after telegraphing 
to Banff for a substitute, who arrived late 
that evening in camp in the person of one 
Harry Lang. The trail does not follow the 
banks of the Columbia, but ascends the valley 
of the Blackwater Creek four or five miles to 
the east. The reason of this is that just 
below Donald the Columbia makes an abrupt 
turn to the westward through a canyon made, 
no doubt, long ago by the water finding a 
weak spot in a low range of hills which runs 
nearly parallel with the Columbia valley, divid- 
ing the latter from the glen of the Blackwater. 
The trail led us along the eastern side of 
this range, and, as it ultimately turned out, 
we never saw the Columbia again till our 
return to Donald. Two creeks, the Waitabit 

and the Bluewater, were passed on the way ; 

163 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

but the fact that the volume of water in them 
was small and did not contain glacial dehris 
obviously meant that no great area of moun- 
tain country was drained by them ; also that 
they either came from lakes, or had their rise 
in the small foothills where *no glaciers existed. 

We camped that afternoon in a stately 
grove of trees about ten miles from Donald. 
It was our first introduction to the magnificent 
forest scenery of this western region of the 
Rockies, and in the evening we wandered forth 
and gazed in admiration at the great cedars, 
pines, poplars, spruces, cotton-wood trees, and 
Douglas firs — some of them nearly two hundred 
feet high, their branches hung with long beards 
of grey, black, and yellow lichens — ranging and 
for ever re-arranging themselves, as the evening 
shadows fell, in long shadowy aisles and sylvan 
corridors. It was a true temple of Nature that 
we were in ; such an one, no doubt, as in olden 
time is said to have inspired the builders of our 
stately Gothic fanes with the ideas that led to 
the new departure in architecture. Beside these 
princes of the wood the tallest pines in the 
Bow or Saskatchewan valleys were but as puny 
saplings ; and the luxuriant undergrowth, ming- 
ling its brilhant hues with those of the silver 

164 



MAGNIFICENT FOREST 



birches, hemlocks, and other smaller trees, lent 
a richness and variety to the foUage such as we 
had never before seen. Side by side with the 
spectacle of vigorous growth, afforded by the 
young trees and shrubs sprouting from the 
damp earth, was that of decay — a mournful 
array of fallen monarchs, sublime even in their 
ruin — trunks of immense girth that lay slowly 
rotting away, moss-grown masses of decompos- 
ing vegetation, whose life and sap had long 
since gone forth to nourish their youthful suc- 
cessors. 

It is hard to convey in words the impressions 
left on one's mind by a journey through the 
underworld of these great forests, where the 
sunlight hardly penetrates and the massy leafage 
forms a canopy overhead that screens all view 
of the outside world. For days together we 
journeyed without so much as catching a 
ghmpse of the surrounding mountains, and all 
we could see of the sky was an occasional bit 
of blue peeping through the narrow openings 
here and there. At night-time, when there is 
no moon, the darkness is tremendous ; even 
when the moon is full its wan beams seem 
powerless to dispel the gloom cast by the 
heavy network of interlacing boughs. Then 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

it is that the air, heavy with the scent of 
the pines, is filled with strange whisperings, as 
though the genii of the forest were holding 
secret converse together ; and, owing to the 
immense height of the trees, the murmur of 
the breeze in their branches seems to fill, and 
as it were to proceed from, the starry vault above 
them. 

The next morning we continued on our 

way, up hill and down dale, but always through 

the same interminable forest. On the third 

day we passed two or three small lakes, and 

camped on the banks of the last and largest of 

them. Fred Stephens pointed out to us the 

remains of some old beaver dams ; and in a 

thicket hard by we came across a flock of those 

rare and beautiful birds, the cross-bills. There 

must have been over fifty of them, and their 

bright plumage lent an unwonted charm to 

these forests, where animal and bird life is all 

too scanty. Our readers may remember the 

touching legend which tells how the cross-bill 

got his beak twisted in a vain endeavour to 

extract the nails from the Saviour's hands and 

feet as He hung upon the cross. Swimming in 

the middle of the lake was a very different 

sort of a bird, a kind of large duck or fresh- 

i66 



A British Columbia 



Forest- Scene 




Evening in the Bush Valley 



THE COLUMBIA TRAIL 

water cormorant, aptly called a "loon," from 
its loud crazy mocking laugh, which sounds 
most weird in the evening stillness. 

When the horses were unpacked it was found 
that a small bag of Collie's, containing some of 
his scientific instruments, a silver flask, and — 
most important of all — two pounds of tobacco, 
was missing ; and half next day was spent in a 
fruitless search for it along the trail. It was 
found later in the year by a prospector on his 
way down the valley, but very few of its 
contents were recovered. We camped that 
evening in a peculiarly wet muskeg, which was 
the only spot we could find where there was 
food for the horses or on which the tents could 
be pitched. The forest by this time had become 
less dense, and we saw something of a fine 
range of mountains on our right, which Collie 
has since named after Spencer. On the other 
side of the valley of the Columbia rose the 
snow-flecked summits of the Selkirks, with belts 
and patches of bright emerald green running 
far up their sides. These green strips, which 
look like grass at a distance, are in reality 
thickets of young trees and brushwood growing 
where avalanches or forest fires have destroyed 
the larger timber. 

167 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

Friday, the 3rd August, brought us to the 
banks of the Bush River, where we camped on 
the edge of a wide marsh and under still more 
disagreeable circumstances than on the previous 
evening. The Bush, a deep, swift-flowing, and 
muddy stream, over a hundred yards wide, ran 
between steep banks that had obviously earlier 
in the year been overflowed. The volume of 
water was decidedly large, as even at the side 
it was eight feet deep. The banks were clothed 
with the impenetrable undergrowth that has 
given the river its name ; and the floods that 
earlier in the year were produced by the melt- 
ing snows had deposited, for some considerable 
distance away from the stream, a white sticky 
mud amongst the roots of the trees : swamps, 
too, were of frequent occurrence, and the 
thickets of willows, alders, and other small 
trees, together with much fallen timber of a 
larger size, made all hope of getting the horses 
through such a jungle seem out of the question. 

We found three rickety boats moored at 
this spot, two on one side and one on the other, 
with what seemed to us a very insecure fasten- 
ing — merely an old rope tied to a small stake 
which was driven into the soft mud on the top 

of the bank. These boats were placed here by 

i68 



THE BUSH RIVER 

the Canadian Pacific authorities for the use of 
travellers journeying to the Big Bend, having 
been brought down the Columbia from Beaver 
Creek. Stephens crossed over in one of them 
to the opposite side, to see whether any trail 
existed up the Bush River on the northern 
bank ; but, as he found nothing but dense 
thickets and swamps, he soon returned. 

The weather was now very hot and sultry, 
and that evening swarms of the most voracious 
mosquitoes we ever encountered drove us nearly 
crazy. The men said they had occasionally 
seen them more numerous on the prairie, but 
that never in their lives had they known them 
anything like so vicious or venomous. They 
lost no time in buzzing or fooling around, but 
went straight to business with their beaks until 
our hands and faces were one mass of bites. 
Nets, lotions, and " smudges " were of no avail ; 
all we could do was to sit still and grin and bear 
it as well as we could. The night was a night 
of unending torment, for at this lower elevation 
(about 2500 feet) the insects do not go to sleep 
after sundown, as in the higher regions of the 
eastern Rockies. Spencer, wise in his genera- 
tion, had brought a piece of netting and bade 

defiance to the mosquitoes, his snores blending 

169 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



harmoniously with their ceaseless buzzing; but 
for his two tent-fellows it was a case of: — 

Mali culices ranaeque palustres 
Avertunt somnos : 

as Horace said on his journey with Maecenas to 

Brundisium. The mosquitoes of Italy, however, 

are but poor things compared with those of 

British Columbia, and the sentiments evoked by 

the latter are the reverse of poetical. 

Next morning we fled, the mosquito scourge 

being unanimously voted past endurance, while 

we saw no chance of making our way along 

the river bank. The horses were hurriedly 

packed amid much kicking and bucking, 

scratching of bites, and strong language 

directed at the flies, the climate, woods, rivers, 

and other geographical features of British 

Columbia. Retracing our steps for about six 

miles along the trail, we pitched the tents near 

the site of our camp on the 3rd August, but 

in a much more agreeable situation. From 

here a mountain spur, very steep and heavily 

timbered, divided us from the upper reaches of 

the Bush Valley. Over this spur, which formed 

the angle between the Columbia and Bush 

rivers, we hoped to find a way ; and during the 

whole of next day Fred Stephens and Lang 

170 



THE BUSH RIVER 

were engaged in cutting a trail through the 
woods to the bottom of the steep ascent, over 
1000 feet in height, which led to the top. 
The distance was not much more than a mile, 
but the trail, which led through a jungle 
rather than a forest, was indeed " a daisy," as 
Fred expressed it ; and the fallen logs, rotten 
timber, bog-holes, rock boulders, and rank under- 
growth gave the men plenty to do. It would 
have been folly to attempt to take heavily-laden 
ponies up this hill-side ; so, to get over the 
difficulty, the whole of Monday the 6th was 
spent in completing the trail, and at the same 
time transporting half our baggage, to the sum- 
mit of the mountain spur. 

On the crest of the ridge was a rock of 
considerable height which enabled us to see 
over the tops of the trees down into the valley 
of the Bush. Collie named this rock Mount 
Pisgah, and from its summit we had an excel- 
lent view of the promised land which we were 
about to enter. It looked anything but promis- 
ing. Beneath us the Bush valley lay spread 
out, very broad, level, and strangely flat, but 
hemmed in by lofty pine-clad mountains. It 
is true there were no rocky canyons with 

cliffs on either side impassable for horses ; nor 

171 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

did the river foam and boil in any single narrow 
channel, the passage whereof would mean certain 
drowning for men or horses. On the contrary, 
the water was spread out over the wide open 
floor of the valley in a network of intersecting 
streams, which curved and twisted in innumer- 
able windings amid beds of shingle, mud-flats, 
fir-covered islands, and reedy swamps — now 
hugging the steep forest- clad slopes on one 
side, now on another — and we could see that 
the valley rose but slightly towards its head, 
and that the same features prevailed through- 
out its length. Away in the distance the 
valley forked ; and in the angle between the 
two branches, filling the exact centre of the 
picture, a noble rock and ice peak, with large 
glaciers descending far down its sides, stood 
forth in solitary magnificence. This peak, if 
the course of the Bush River was correctly 
marked on the existing maps, could be none 
other than Mount Bryce ; and we therefore 
naturally assumed it to be that mountain. In 
this, however, as the sequel will show, we were 
sadly mistaken. 

Next day we loaded all the horses early with 
the remainder of the baggage, which had been 

left below in the camp. As there was no water 

172 



THE BUSH RIVER 

anywhere along the ridge it was absolutely 
necessary to get down to the Bush valley on 
the other side the same day. This we even- 
tually did, but only after nearly twelve hours' 
fighting with the forest. Arriving at the foot 
of Mount Pisgah on the summit of the moun- 
tain spur, we packed the horses with as much 
of the baggage as we thought they could safely 
carry, leaving the remainder cached, and com- 
menced the descent. The weather was gloomy 
and threatening ; and a couple of blue jays, 
which are now becoming quite rare in the West, 
croaked dismally on a neighbouring pine, pre- 
saging future woe. Following the ridge for a 
short distance, we crept down into a narrow 
cleft between perpendicular rocks, out of which 
we emerged with some difficulty into the forest 
on the further side. The hill was terribly steep, 
the timber also being very bad in places, and 
during the descent one of the horses, carrying 
all our bacon, stampeded from the trail and was 
seen no more that day. This contretemps natur- 
ally caused us much anxiety. It was late in the 
afternoon when we reached the bottom of the 
hill and camped in a swamp near the banks of 
the Bush. By barometer we were now just 
about the same height as Donald — 2500 feet. 

173 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

During the night the barometer fell two-tenths 
of an inch, and next day we were treated to the 
kind of weather that prevailed more or less till 
the end of our trip — rain, dull grey skies, and 
lowering clouds over all the mountains. As a 
matter of fact, we afterwards discovered that 
that August was the wettest and most unsettled 
that had been experienced in the Canadian 
Rockies for many years. 

On the following morning, Wednesday the 
8th, Fred went off in search of the missing 
bacon and the miserable quadruped entrusted 
therewith. The latter was found, after much 
searching, imprisoned in a natural pen of fallen 
timber, into which he had jumped, carrying his 
pack; and it required many blows of Freds 
axe to extricate him. By this time it was too 
late to go and fetch the provisions left on the 
ridge : and on the 9th a steady downpour kept 
us prisoners in camp ; so two more valuable 
days were wasted. On the 10th Fred and Lang 
took some of the horses up to Mount Pisgah 
and brought down the baggage and provisions. 
Stutfield meanwhile explored the muskeg in 
search of ducks and wild geese, which, with an 
occasional wild swan, could be seen flying in 
flocks up and down the valley. Collie, taking 

174 




Fording a Branch Stream 



THE BUSH RIVER 

an axe, had his first experience of a kind of 
work that was often afterwards to be reserved 
for him, namely, trail-cutting. To any one not 
accustomed to wielding a heavy Canadian axe 
in a thick forest, it is decidedly hard work. 
Not only is one unversed in the art of tree- 
felling and log- chopping, but one is using a 
set of muscles rarely employed by the average 
man who follows a professional Hfe in a large 
town. For the dense brushwood of the British 
Columbian forests a light single-handed axe 
would be invaluable. It would be especially 
useful for dealing with that special abomination 
of these woods, the " devil's club," a long prickly 
trailing creeper, with broad leaves, heavy stem, 
and most poisonous spikes which cause very 
painful wounds. It grows so thickly in the 
damp heavy soil, half concealed by the dense 
undergrowth, that it is almost impossible some- 
times to avoid its unwelcome embraces, the con- 
sequences of which are extremely unpleasant. 

Saturday the 11th August saw us start along 
the steep muddy banks of the now swollen Bush 
river. Hemmed in by the stream against the 
hill-side and the willow-thickets and muskegs, 
we had to make our trail as we went, and pro- 
gress was very slow. Every now and then a 

175 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

horse would fall or plunge wilfully into the 
water, to be extricated only at the expense of 
much labour and strong language. In such 
places as these the cayooses want looking after 
at every step. Just as the vanguard seems to 
be getting on nicely a cry of " Halt " arises 
from the rear, when it is found that some beast 
of ill omen has strayed from the track and 
deposited his burden in the mud. There is a 
rush to the rescue, and the others take ad- 
vantage of the confusion to make a bolt of it 
into the forest, or else to get mired up to their 
girths. The result is a rare trial of temper and 
patience. 

" Can't ! Don't I SkanH I Wont 1 

Pass it along the line : 
Somebody's pack has slid from his back ; 

'Wish it were only mine ! 
Somebody's load has tipped off in the road — 

Cheer for a halt and a row ! 
IJrr I Yarrh ! Grr ! Arrh ! 

Somebody's catching it now." 

So sings Mr. Rudyard Kipling's commissariat 
camel, and you may be sure that a team of 
Indian cayooses would gladly join in the chorus. 

In the afternoon we crossed a branch stream 
on to a large island, and Fred, despairing of 
making his way along the southern bank, 

176 



THE BUSH RIVER 

mounted the Pinto and essayed, with Lang, to 
ford the main river, which was here over a 
hundred yards wide and running pretty fast. 
When they were in about mid- stream six of 
the baggage animals rushed into the water 
before they could be prevented and followed 
them across. Then the fun began. All went 
well until they were quite close to the opposite 
bank, where the water was about five feet deep 
and the current very strong. The Pinto, trying 
to climb up the sHppery bank, fell back with 
his rider into the river ; and, Fred's foot getting 
entangled in the ladigo, or leather thong of 
the saddle, he was nearly drowned. However, 
he just managed to get free in time, and swam 
ashore. Lang, with the other horses, got safely 
across, but the rest of us, wishing neither to be 
swept down stream or to get soaked, waited 
on events where we were. Meanwhile Fred, as 
soon as he reached dry land, shouted to us not 
to come over ; unpacked and tethered the horses 
that had crossed the river, and proceeded to 
construct a raft wherewith to ferry back Lang 
and himself. A few water-sodden logs were his 
only available material ; and, after tying them 
loosely together with the cinch-ropes, he and 
Lang embarked on their perilous voyage. 

177 M 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

In the stream the raft, becoming unmanage- 
able, was sucked into a deep and narrow rapid. 
Here Lang, trying to pole the crazy vessel in 
water which must have been at least ten feet 
deep, lost his balance and fell overboard into the 
icy river, his heavy boots dragging him down; 
and, but for the presence of mind of Fred 
Stephens, who crawled along the raft with a pole 
just long enough to reach his comrade in dis- 
tress, there is little doubt that in a few minutes 
the latter would have been drowned. There is 
no difficulty in launching a raft into the centre 
of a swift-flowing river, but to reach land on 
the other side is a very different thing; and, 
if it had not been possible to throw a rope to 
the two men as, exhausted and benumbed, they 
drifted rapidly round a sharp bend in the stream 
about a quarter of a mile below, they might 
have sailed in a very short time down to the 
unknown reaches of the Bush River, or perhaps 
to the Columbia itself. 

It was a cheerless night that we spent — 
seven men packed hke sardines in one smaU 
leaky tent (the other was across the stream) ; 
but we were thankful that nothing worse had 
happened. The valley reeked with damp ex- 
halations from the marshes ; the rain poured 

178 



THE BUSH RIVER 

down without intermission ; and the great river 
rushed silently by, dark and gloomy as the Styx, 
while inside the tent Charon, personified by Fred, 
was snoring the roof off, his large frame and long 
legs taking up much more than their fair share 
of room. Our best tent and half the provisions 
and outfit were on the other side of the stream ; 
where the tethered nags, frightened at their 
isolation in the gloom and rain, could be heard 
whinnying to their companions across the water. 

Next morning Fred, undaunted by the mis- 
haps of the previous day, and still full of energy 
and resource, started to build a raft of dry pine 
logs on a more magnificent scale, and with a 
pair of oars : he then ferried himself across alone ; 
drove the horses over ; packed the raft with their 
burdens, and rowed back to us in the evening, 
placing the whole outfit once more in statu quo 
on the island — a very fine day's work. In the 
meantime Colhe, unwilling to be idle, had forded 
the branch stream with some difficulty, and 
was cutting trail laboriously along the left, or 
southern, bank, while Spencer took photographs 
of the scene of our mishaps. Stutfield, his 
spare clothes being on the other side of the 
river, divested himself of those he wore, and, 

clad only in a hat, a riick-sack, and a gun, like- 

179 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

wise forded the branch stream and hunted for 
wild geese, which had been heard gaggUng 
during the night in a " sloo " {Anglice, slough) 
on the other side. He might have spared him- 
self the trouble, as there were no geese there 
when he reached the sloo — at least, only one, 
as Spencer sarcastically observed that evening 
at supper. 



1 80 



CHAPTER X 



TO THE HEAD OF THE BUSH VALLEY 

The weather had served us very shabbily hither- 
to, but a sUght improvement was discernible 
when Black next morning, adopting the favourite 
formula of cooks in the backwoods, announced 
in stentorian tones that breakfast was "ready 
in the dining-car." The skies wept less copiously, 
and the trailing mists uplifted their draggled 
skirts from the flanks of the hills sufficiently to 
leave the lower slopes clear. The sun, too, 
strove hard to show itself ; but all it could do 
was to occasionally shine with a sickly pallor 
through the watery vapour that hung persis- 
tently over the valley. Recrossing the branch 
of the river, we continued slowly up the left 
bank through sopping underbrush, the jungles, 
logs, and quagmires seeming to have no end. 

For the second time within a week our 
bacon this day was in grave jeopardy. It was 
extremely hot and muggy ; and while we were 
cautiously edging along a narrow strip of very 

muddy land between the river and some deep 

i8i 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

muskeg, Girlie (whose taste for bathing in in- 
convenient manners and seasons was already 
notorious) and another mare took a header off 
the bank into the river, which at this point was 
running like a mill-race and about ten feet 
deep. The second mare was washed down some 
distance, but, having nothing on her back except 
a saddle, she was got out without much diffi- 
culty. Girhe, however, who was packed with 
about 250 lb. of bacon, promptly went out of 
sight, bobbed up again twenty yards lower down, 
only to go under a second time. Luckily her 
next appearance was close against the bank, when 
two of the men at once seized her; but then 
the difficulty was to get her out. The water 
was still very deep ; the bank steep and slippery, 
and choked with driftwood and overhanging 
willows ; so all we could do for some time was 
to keep her head up with the halter, which got 
twisted round her neck till she was nearly 
strangled. Poor Girlie's gasps grew fainter 
and fainter, and we fancied it was all up with 
her. Our hearts were in our mouths, for if 
the flour and bacon she carried were lost we 
might have to beat a retreat homewards. Even- 
tually, however, by means of a rope taken from 

one of the packs, and with seven of us pulling, 

182 



An Awkward Corner on the Bush River 



THE BUSH VALLEY 

she was landed on her side on the bank, alive 
but half - strangled, and our bacon was saved. 
Half-an-hour afterwards she was grazing tran- 
quilly with the other horses, just as if nothing 
had happened, and with unimpaired appetite. 

We camped then and there in a most 
abominable quagmire and not the best of 
tempers. The loss of our axeman, Charlie 
Bassett, was now making itself keenly felt. 
The men, with the one exception of Fred 
Stephens, were beginning to grumble, and their 
maledictions on the valley and the trip gener- 
ally were both loud and deep. " Why couldn't 
we have stuck to the eastern side of the moun- 
tains, as in former years ? " " What on earth 
was the use of persisting on our journey up this 
accursed valley, which was no fit habitation for 
white men ? " On the other hand, Fred's good 
temper and spirits rose superior to every trial 
and annoyance. Immensely strong, always 
willing and cheerful, he was a host in himself ; 
but there are limits to human endurance, and 
we sorely needed another expert axeman. 

However, if our trials were great, we had 
our compensations. To begin with, the scenery 
was magnificent, both mountains and forests 
being on a much grander scale than on the 

183 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

eastern side. Deep valleys — mighty rifts carved 
out of the mountains by the age-long action 
of the snow-fed torrents — descended on either 
side from the glacier-clad offshoots of the main 
chain. Between these valleys rose bold rocky 
peaks — one of them, a long crest or cock's-comb 
of jagged crag, being particularly striking. 
Down the Bush valley the view was bounded 
by the Selkirks, with a grand Weisshorn-like 
pyramid in the centre. Some weeks later Stut- 
field had an excellent view of this unnamed 
mountain monarch from the top of Mount Sir 
Donald, and we frequently saw it from the 
peaks we climbed in 1902. It would seem to 
be unquestionably the highest summit of any 
of the known parts of the Selkirk range. One 
of these days, no doubt, some hardy explorer 
will be able to tell us more about this peak and 
the unknown mountain region around it, but 
we do not altogether envy him the journey to 
its base. In the opposite direction, at the head 
of the valley, and getting nearer to us every 
day, was the splendid mountain we supposed 
to be Mount Bryce. 

Of the beauties of the forests we have al- 
ready spoken. We might have more greatly 

admired them if they had not been so abomin- 

184 



THE BUSH VALLEY 

ably troublesome. They have a wondrous 
fascination of their own, these vast woodland 
wildernesses of the West, but the charm is apt 
to evaporate when you are cutting trail. Now 
and again, when the willow thickets and mus- 
kegs were particularly bad along the river banks, 
we tried to get through the timber on our right, 
but the attempt had almost always to be 
abandoned, as the obstructions were such as 
to daunt the stoutest axeman. The account 
given by Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle in " The 
North-West Passage by Land " — one of the 
best books of travel in the Rockies ever written 
— of a British Columbian forest scene can hardly 
be bettered. The forest in question is not a 
hundred miles north of where we were in the 
Bush valley, and the two explorers had to 
make their way through it on their adventurous 
journey. " No one who has not seen a primeval 
forest, where trees of gigantic size have grown 
and fallen undisturbed for ages, can form any 
idea of the collection of timber, or the impene- 
trable nature of such a region. There are pines 
and thujas of every size, the patriarch of three 
hundred feet in height standing alone . . . The 
fallen trees lay piled around, forming barriers 
often six or eight feet high on every side : trunks 

185 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

of huge cedars, moss-grown and decayed, lay 
half-buried in the ground on which others as 
mighty had recently fallen ; trees still green and 
living, recently blown down, blocking the view 
with walls of earth held in their matted roots ; 
living trunks, dead trunks, rotten trunks ; dry 
barkless trunks, trunks moist and green with 
moss ; bare trunks, and trunks with branches — 
prostrate, reclining, and horizontal, propped up 
at different angles ; timber of every size, in 
every stage of growi:h and decay, in every 
possible position, entangled in every possible 
combination." 

Such are the obstacles, such the difficulties 
— to say nothing of other inconveniences, such 
as swollen rivers, swamps, thick underbrush, a 
bad chmate, and well-nigh intolerable mos- 
quitoes — which the would-be explorer in the 
mountainous regions of British Columbia must 
be prepared to encounter. The admirable 
description given by Milton and Cheadle might, 
with more or less accuracy, be written of almost 
any part of the western slopes of the Canadian 
Rockies : and it must be remembered that, as 
has been mentioned before, travel is a good deal 
more difficult now than in earlier days. In 

Milton and Cheadle's book, as in those of 

i86 



THE BUSH VALLEY 

Hector, Palliser, and others of the earlier 
pioneers, one reads of comparatively frequent 
meetings with Indians, trappers, prospectors, 
and the like, and this meant that the trails 
were kept more or less open ; that game was 
reasonably abundant ; and that you had some 
chance of meeting with assistance if you ran 
short of food or found yourself otherwise in a 
tight place. Nowadays the traveller at any 
distance from his base is not likely to meet a 
soul, Indian or white man, and he must do his 
trail-cutting himself ; while, as to finding game 
to stock his larder with, he cannot rely on hav- 
ing the luck which befell us in 1898 near Wilcox 
Pass. Dr. Hector was a man of rare energy 
and endurance, but not even he could have 
made the long daily marches we read of in his 
narrative, had his explorations taken place thirty 
or forty years later. In our case we had known 
pretty well what we were in for, though fore- 
warned was not altogether forearmed with us, as 
our party, especially with Bassett absent, was not 
adequately equipped for so formidable a job. 

There was one more bad day in store for 
us before matters began to improve. About 
a quarter of a mile above our camp in the 

swamp the river swept in a turbid flood past 

187 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the foot of a high rocky bank covered with 
large trees, and quite impassable for horses. 
We therefore had once more to cut our way- 
over the shoulder of a hill ; and Fred and 
Colhe spent a whole morning at the work. 
Spencer and Stutfield, being unprovided with 
axes, and doubtful of their ability to use them 
had they possessed such things, enjoyed their 
otium cum dignitate in camp. In the afternoon 
the two trail- cutters returned, and the whole 
outfit started. This hill was perhaps the worst 
thing we had to negotiate, not so much owing 
to the wood as to the steepness of the ground 
and the excessive rottenness of the soil, which 
seemed to be composed wholly of decayed tree- 
trunks and other vegetable matter. In such 
places one may be walking along some colossal 
trunk that looks fairly solid outside, but within 
is a mass of rottenness ; and if you break 
through the outside crust you may suddenly 
find yourself up to your neck in soft pulp. 

The descent from the shoulder of the hill 
was a most parlous operation, the steep slope 
being pitted with numerous bog-holes, in which 
stubborn roots interlaced and big hidden stones 
set the horses stumbling in all directions ; 

and it was a wonder that none of them got 

i88 



THE BUSH VALLEY 

their legs broken. Stutfield, while trying to 
assist the horses round one very bad spot, was 
overwhelmed by an avalanche of ponies slipping, 
sliding, tumbling down the hill — and was 
knocked over in a sitting posture among a 
bunch of devil's club which, under the circum- 
stances, struck him as being even more than 
usually poisonous. After this there was a 
stampede all round, and the men were flying 
after the horses in all directions. Joe, carrying 
a heavy pack, was particularly fractious. Break- 
ing away from the others, he careered madly 
through the forest, clearing several high logs in 
excellent style, until he found himself corralled 
in a cluster of fallen trees, from which Collie 
had to cut him out. Joe was not accustomed 
to being treated as a beast of burden, and 
doubtless took this opportunity of expressing 
his dissatisfaction. Stutfield had ridden him 
all the way down the Columbia trail, but dis- 
carded him when the timber became bad. He 
was too big and powerful a brute to be safe in 
such places as we had to pass in the Bush 
valley ; and the idea of breaking a leg or arm 
in the wilderness, far from surgical aid, is not 
pleasant to contemplate. The rest of the outfit 

affected great surprise at this excess of caution 

189 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

on Stutfield's part, but he observed that nobody 
else seemed anxious to mount his fiery steed — 
the accident to poor Bassett was stiU fresh in 
our minds — so Joe carried a pack henceforth 
until we got back to the Columbia trail. His 
place as saddle-horse was taken by a strawberry- 
coloured animal, named Tom, with large holes 
in his ears, through which his rider enjoyed 
charming peeps of the river and surrounding 
landscape. These holes are often bored by 
the Indians in their horses' ears to serve as 
distinguishing marks. 

Once at the bottom of the hill our worst 
troubles were over for the present, and for 
some distance the going was quite easy. In 
the mud along the river bank were numerous 
tracks of mink and musk-rat ; and we saw one 
or two specimens of the curious kangaroo 
mouse, so called from his appearance and 
method of propeUing himself forward by a suc- 
cession of leaps. Two days' fording the river 
backwards and forwards, with a moderate 
amount of chopping, brought us to the head 
of the valley ; and on the evening of the 16th 
we camped in a splendid site on the northern 
bank, half a mile below the junction of the 

forks, in the middle of an amphitheatre of high 

190 



At the Head of Bush Valley 



THE BUSH VALLEY 



mountains, with the great peak towering right 
above us. 

Assuming the maps to have correctly de- 
Hneated the course of the Bush River, we still 
believed this peak to be Mount Bryce, and 
we therefore expected to find the Columbia 
ice-field not many miles away round the corner 
to the north. The Bush River flowed in a 
westerly direction from our camp : its two forks 
branch out nearly north and south, that is to 
say, almost at right angles to the main valley. 
The height of our camp, as given by Collie's 
mercurial barometer, was only 2800 feet above 
sea-level, which is a remarkably low elevation for 
the head of a valley running right up into the 
heart of the mountains, and our calculations 
were entirely upset thereby. We had hoped to 
find ourselves at about the same height as at the 
head-waters of the Saskatchewan or the Atha- 
basca, that is to say, from 5000 to 7 000 feet ; 
which would have given us so much less 
timber- work, and made things generally easier. 
Moreover, when subsequently we looked up 
the gorge of the North Fork, to the foot of the 
great glaciers at its head, the valley seemed to 
rise but little — certainly not so much as 1000 

feet. The valley of the Bush, therefore, is by 

191 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



far the lowest, so far as is at present known, of 
any of the large valleys that run up directly 
under the highest peaks. 

On Friday the 17th it rained steadily all 
day, and we never stirred from our tents. 
On the morrow the weather improved in the 
afternoon ; so, leaving the horses, we climbed 
about 2000 feet up the mountain spur that 
lay between us and the north fork of the 
Bush River. The mists lay low on the snow 
peaks, but we saw that about two miles up 
the north fork a valley came in from the east, 
and glaciers lay at its head some five or six 
miles distant. The north fork itself stretched 
away for miles, fiUed with dense pine woods, 
with occasional small shingle-flats in between ; 
and under the dull grey sky it presented a 
dreary and inhospitable appearance. But Fred 
Stephens pointed to a grassy plateau on the 
hills across the stream, and talked of shooting 
cariboo, goat, and perhaps, if we were lucky, 
a bighorn. Black, on the other hand, who 
usually took a gloomy view of things, gave it 
as his opinion that this was a country for- 
saken both of gods and animals, much to be 
condemned, and no fit place for a white man. 

We could not see much owing to the mists, 

192 



THE BUSH VALLEY 



but the appearance of the valleys distinctly 
puzzled us : somehow, the whole thing was 
quite different from what we had expected. 

On the way down we sighted a couple of 
wild swans on a small lake about a mile from 
the tents ; and Stutfield and Fred, taking both 
gun and rifle, stalked them through the bushes 
that grew along the margin of the pool. Fred 
had the rifle and fired at the male bird, but 
only succeeded in removing a couple of feathers 
from its back ; and the pair sailed majestically 
away on their broad pinions, and we saw them 
no more. There were any number of bear- 
tracks in the mud along the banks, so Stutfield 
revisited the place soon after dawn next morning. 
A dense fog hung over everything, making 
the bushes sopping wet ; he saw neither bear, 
nor swans, nor geese, and returned to camp 
for breakfast soaked to the skin with the dew. 
He paid several visits subsequently to this 
lake, but only succeeded in bagging one goose 
and a couple of duck. 

The day was fine, so after breakfast Fred 
Stephens and Lang went on a voyage of dis- 
covery up the north fork valley. Collie and 
Stutfield, taking a couple of horses, forded the 
main river opposite the camp in order to in- 

193 N 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

vestigate the valley of the southern branch. 
Tethering the horses on the further bank, 
we proceeded afoot through the most horrible 
logs and jungle imaginable. The river is much 
narrower and more impetuous in its higher 
reaches, and absolutely impassable for horses : 
just below the junction of the forks it rushes, 
boihng and foaming over big boulders, between 
high rocky banks. After an hour or two's 
toilsome scrambhng we reached a splendid 
gorge, some hundreds of feet deep, which the 
south fork has cleft for itself through the hills 
a short distance above the junction. Here 
we found ourselves in a veritable woodland 
fruit-garden, the hill-sides being covered with 
wild raspberries and blaeberries as big as small 
grapes, and of most exquisite flavour. The rasp- 
berries, on the other hand, though large, were 
distinctly unpalatable and hardly worth eating. 

A rocky knoll in the wood gave us an 
uninterrupted view up the valley of the north 
fork, and at its head we saw a high and very 
beautiful pyramid of snow rising in isolated 
grandeur out of an immense ice-field. There 
was no mistaking it. Beyond all question it 
was Mount Columbia, the chief goal of our 

expedition; and, to our dismay, it was twenty 

194 



THE BUSH VALLEY 

or twenty-five miles off, when it ought — if the 
Bush River had been correctly located, as the 
Americans say, on the maps — to have been 
only eight or ten. There was evidently some- 
thing very wrong somewhere ; and we returned, 
much puzzled and somewhat downcast in our 
minds, through those hateful woods to where we 
had tethered the horses, and thence to the tents. 

Meanwhile Fred and Lang had been four 
or five miles up the north fork, passing a 
small shingle-flat and the mouth of the valley 
that came in from the east. They reported 
that the fallen timber was dreadful, and that 
trail-cutting would be necessary every step of 
the way ; moreover, that along the west bank 
gullies and steep hill-sides, with occasionally 
small precipices, would, so far as they could 
judge, entirely prevent us getting the horses 
along, unless we could cross the stream to 
the eastern side. Fred also showed us his arm, 
which was quite swollen with the bites of black 
flies — a new form of insect plague which, to- 
gether with clouds of midges, now began to 
form quite an agreeable variation to the inces- 
sant attacks of the mosquitoes. Curiously 
enough, while the latter drove us Europeans 
nearly crazy, we suffered very little from the 

195 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

bites of the black flies, which, on the other 
hand, caused our men much more distress than 
the mosquitoes. Another fact worth men- 
tioning, perhaps, is that we never saw any 
" bulldogs " in the Bush valley. Probably the 
mosquitoes and other insect pests were too 
numerous for them all to live together. 

By this time we were beginning to get 
anxious, for we had been out twenty-two days 
without getting anywhere near the base of 
our mountains, and time and provisions were 
running out. Something had to be done, and 
that quickly. Next day, therefore. Collie, 
Stutfield, and Spencer decided to climb to the 
top of the peak that lay in the angle between 
the north fork and the main valley of the 
Bush. Stutfield took the gun as far as the 
sloo where we had seen the wild swans; and, 
with his two companions acting as beaters, 
secured a Canada goose, a splendid bird weigh- 
ing over 10 lb., whose flesh proved an acceptable 
change from the eternal bacon and tinned meat. 
From the lake there was a most tiring climb 
of about 5000 feet, every inch of the way 
having to be fought through the woods. An 
hour below the summit Stutfield, who had not 

been feeling well all day, felt his legs giving 

196 



THE BUSH VALLEY 

out; so he gave up the cUmb and returned to 

camp. CoUie and Spencer, however, went on 

their way and had a glorious view, the day 

being beautifully fine and the mountains of 

the main chain entirely free from cloud. As 

it turned out, this was a piece of great good 

fortune, for we never had another really fine 

day throughout the trip. During the whole 

of the remaining fortnight that we spent in 

the mountains the clouds never quite lifted 

from the high peaks ; and, had the view that 

was got that afternoon been missed, much 

knowledge of the geography of the district 

would never have been acquired. 

Just as Collie and Spencer arrrived within 

a hundred yards of the summit and were walking 

round a corner on the ridge, they came across 

an old Rocky Mountain he-goat. He looked 

at them awhile and then went on feeding, so 

Collie photographed him. He seemed tame 

enough, never probably having seen a human 

being before. All the same, when Stutfield 

pursued him with a rifle a day or two afterwards 

he showed himself — for a Rocky Mountain goat, 

which is not the most intelligent of wild animals 

— fairly wide-awake. 

Once on the summit, CoUie immediately 
197 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

recognised why the head of the valley had 
seemed so different from what he had expected. 
Ten miles or more to the northward, up the 
north fork, was Mount Bryce ; and beyond it 
was Mount Columbia and the great ice-field, 
which we had explored on our last trip, sending 
its glaciers low down into the valley, their snouts 
in places being little over 4000 feet above sea- 
level ; while the heads of the Twins showed 
far away at the head- waters of the Athabasca. 
Almost due east was Mount Lyell, or a peak 
which he then imagined to be Lyell — it was in 
reahty an adjoining summit of the range, which 
has since been christened Mount Alexandra. It 
was quite evident, therefore, that we were ten 
or twelve miles south of where we imagined 
ourselves to be; and that the maps had placed 
the head of the Bush Biver that much too far to 
the south. The mountain we had been calling 
Bryce, at the head of the Bush valley, was 
another peak altogether, and one that Collie 
had marked as " high peak " on his 1899 map. 
To the left of this peak, in the distance, lay 
Mount Forbes ; whilst far away at the head of 
the south fork, rising from a great snow-field and 
glaciers, were the Freshfield group. This ex- 
plained why the Waitabit and the Bluewater 

198 



THE BUSH VALLEY 

creeks contained no glacier water ; for the Bush 
Biver, and the Bush River alone, drained the 
whole area, from INIount Freshfield on the south, 
the back of Blount Forbes, and the western side 
of the whole Lyell ice-field, to the north of the 
Columbia ice-field, which, sphtting into several 
large glaciers, poured down in magnificent cas- 
cades of ice to the green pine-woods that filled 
the valley below. Another point of considerable 
interest, which has been alluded to abeady, was 
the very low altitude of the valleys. 

But with this discovery of our exact locahty 
there was borne in upon him the extremely 
unpleasant fact that the Columbia ice-field, 
which was our principal goal, lay about fifteen 
miles up a valley, every yard of which would 
have to be cut with the axe ; and probably it 
would take us at least a fortnight to reach its 
head. With this reflection he and Spencer 
returned to our camp in the valley, sad and 
disheartened, for our plans would have to be 
changed, and, as far as we were concerned, the 
highest snow-peak in this part of the Rockies, 
Mount Columbia, would not be chmbed this 
year. 



199 



CHAPTER XI 



OUR CAMP ON GOAT PEAK 

A COUNCIL of war was held that evening to 
decide on our next move. We finally deter- 
mined to cache part of the baggage and pro- 
visions, so as to travel as light as possible, and 
push on next morning as far as possible up 
the valley of the north fork. Fred Stephens 
and Lang had been cutting trail all day to the 
mouth of the valley ; and along this trail we 
started as soon as the process of packing the 
horses and caching the baggage was completed. 
Half-an-hour from the start, the timber getting 
very bad, we were forced down to the river 
bank, and Fred essayed to ford the stream ; but 
it was too deep and rapid, and the attempt had 
to be abandoned before he was half-way across. 
Ahead the ground sloped precipitously down to 
the water s edge ; the timber looked as though 
a forest of scaffolding poles had fallen one across 
the other, and further progress along the banks 
of the stream would, at the best, be at the rate 

of about a mile a day. Moreover, we were all 

200 



OUR CAMP ON GOAT PEAK 

heartily sick of the work, so Fred conceived 
a somewhat bold idea. Turning the horses' 
heads straight up the hill, by dint of hard work 
and skilful guidance, he conducted the whole 
party, in torrents of rain, up more than 4000 
feet of heavily- wooded mountain-side to the foot 
of the peak which Collie and Spencer had 
ascended the day before. His intention was to 
find a passage above timber-level, and along 
the benches of rock that lined the face of the 
mountain, but these proved to be far too for- 
midable to be negotiated with horses. 

We camped in a pleasant spot at tree-hne, 
about 7300 feet above the sea, with only one; 
drawback — there was no water ; and Alec had to 
fetch snow in buckets for every meal from a 
place some hundreds of yards off, a labour he 
strongly objected to. While the tents were 
being pitched, Stutfield wandered off through 
the rain in search of Collie's old he-goat, as our 
larder was by this time getting very low. He 
saw the goat, but in an open place where a stalk 
was impossible ; and the old billy did not show 
himself so tame or accommodating as on the 
previous day, so Stutfield had to return without 
any meat, drenched to the skin, to a most un- 
comfortable dinner in our leaky little tent. 

20I 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

Next morning the weather improved, and 
CoUie and Spencer again ascended to the top of 
their peak (now named Goat Peak), photo- 
graphed, surveyed, and mapped as much of 
the country as possible. Fred took the gun 
and went after blue grouse and fool-hen, while 
Stutfield returned to the chase of Collie's vener- 
able friend, the ancient billy. Most of the high 
peaks kept themselves persistently veiled ; but 
we had some gorgeous Elijah Walton-like views, 
through the parting mists, of Mount Columbia, 
which, in spite of its greater height, appears 
to have less attraction for clouds than its neigh- 
bours. From this point of view it is a sharp 
pyramid, with most graceful contours, — alto- 
gether different from the flat-topped and some- 
what shapeless mass it appears from the other 
side. Nearer, the triple-peaked Mount Bryce 
towered majestically over the sombre canyon ; 
while westwards the Selkirks, dominated by 
the grand pyramidal peak that we used to see 
from the banks of the Bush, were distinctly 
visible. The prospect was something like that 
from the Brevent, above Chamonix, but it was 
far more extensive ; and the mountains rising 
steeply 9000 or 10,000 feet out of the low- 
lying valleys, formed a much more impressive 

202 




MoL'NT Bryce from Goat Peak 



OUR CAMP ON GOAT PEAK 

panorama than anything we had seen from the 
Saskatchewan or Athabasca. 

The old billy-goat was not on view this 
morning, so Stutfield returned to lunch at the 
tents, where he found that the men had 
sighted three goats, two old ones and a kid, 
browsing on a hill across a deep valley not 
far to the west of the camp. Descending 
into the valley he cUmbed up the other side, 
and, screened by a belt of low trees, crept 
within shot of the unsuspecting trio. They 
had not shifted their position, but were brows- 
ing tranquilly on some small patches of grass 
above a long and very steep shale-slope ter- 
minating in a high precipice. The first shot 
was a bad miss, but the second bowled over 
the biggest of the three. A couple of bullets, 
sent after the kid as it scampered off, only 
made the dust fly under its belly ; and Stut- 
field was not altogether sorry that his indif- 
ferent shooting had saved him from the guilt 
of infanticide. On the other hand, what a 
lovely stew the little fellow would have made ! 
The dead goat lay for a few moments sup- 
ported by the stem of a dwarf fir-tree; but 
presently the carcase sUpped and rolled head 

over heels down the shale-slope to the brink 

203 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

of some rocks about 1200 feet in depth. A 
few yards more and it would have gone over 
the abyss, and we should have seen it no more. 

With some difficulty Stutfield got down to it, 
but moving the carcase alone — it weighed well 
over 150 lbs. — was out of the question, as the 
slope was very steep and slippery, with a thin 
layer of greasy mud resting on smooth rocks ; 
and it was all he could do to keep his feet, 
even when unencumbered. However, an hour 
later Black and Alec, having heard the shots, 
came to the rescue with a rope ; and with 
infinite trouble, and not without risk, they all 
three managed to haul the beast up to a safer 
position where they could gralloch him. The 
rescue of that goat from his perilous position 
afforded Stutfield much the most exciting climb- 
ing experience of the whole trip. It was im- 
possible to get the carcase home that day, but 
there was much jubilation in camp at the pros- 
pect of fresh meat, and the men fared sumptu- 
ously ofT goat's liver in the evening. 

That night the weather, which had been 

misbehaving itself all through the trip, went 

hopelessly to the bad. It rained and sleeted 

all next day, and we could not stir from camp ; 

but the following afternoon, Friday the 24th, 

204 



OUR CAMP ON GOAT PEAK 

a party of us sallied forth, taking a horse part 
of the way, and after much trouble brought 
in the goat, returning, as usual, soaked to the 
skin. We had a haunch for supper, and it 
wasn't at all bad. The meat is, of course, by no 
means equal to that of the bighorn ; but, if 
kept awhile, it is not unpalatable, and there is 
singularly little goaty flavour about it. 

In the night the wind went round to the 
north, and the driven snow and sleet forced its 
way into our wretched little tent, so that Spencer 
and Stutfield woke up to find their pillows 
sprinkled with it ; while the ground outside was 
covered to a depth of several inches. Collie, a 
day or two previously, had retired into the privacy 
of his little Mummery tent, which he found 
much warmer and more snug than the other. 
This tent, invented by the late Mr. Mummery, 
who perished on Mount Nanga Parbat, in the 
Himalayas, is made of silk, and weighs only 
three and a half pounds. It is invaluable for 
bivouacs on the mountains, or in places where 
impedimenta can only be packed on men's backs, 
as a couple of ice-axes are all that is necessary 
for poles, while the side ropes can be attached 
to stones. 

Our exposed camp was not exactly a joyous 
205 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

habitation now ; and the men — Fred always ex- 
cepted — grumbled more than ever, while our 
prospects of doing any serious mountaineering 
grew fainter and fainter. The snow lay pretty 
thick on the ground, and showed little signs 
of melting. Occasional rifts through the rolling 
masses of vapour, with faint gleams of sunshine, 
gave us uninviting glimpses now and then of 
the Bush valley far below, and the muddy 
torrent tearing along between the shingle-flats 
and muskegs. Overhead everything was in dense 
mist, and a blizzard from the north-east blew 
continuously. Taken altogether, it was quite 
a nice place for a summer holiday ! 

All the same, we would not paint too 
gloomy a picture of our week's sojourn in the 
high camp, for really it was not half so bad 
as it may seem to the reader. It was very 
wet and cold, no doubt ; but hardships such as 
these are generally worse in the recital than 
the actual experience. On the other hand, 
only those who have endured their attacks 
can realise the misery caused by mosquitoes 
when they are really bad : rain, hail, snow, and 
slush on the mountain side were bhss itself 
compared with what we sometimes suffered in 

the valley below. Stutfield, at any rate, had 

206 



Spencer Range from Camp on Goat Peak 



OUR CAMP ON GOAT PEAK 

little cause to complain ; for he had many de- 
lightful expeditions over the craggy hills after 
goat, with occasional glimpses of the most 
wonderful scenery, when the mists parted and 
one or another of the great peaks coyly unveiled 
itself to view. 

There was one evening in particular — one 
brief " crowded hour of glorious hfe " — when we 
had a vision of strange sunset splendours, which 
were enough in themselves to compensate for 
many a wet, weary day of fog and sleet. The 
whole landscape was swathed in a white mantle 
of freshly - fallen snow ; the clouds suddenly 
dispersed, only a light caftan of pink mist rest- 
ing on the shoulders of Columbia ; and the sun 
went down, not in the conventional blaze of 
green and gold and orange, but with a soft 
saffron effulgence, more suggestive of dawn 
than sunset, that shed a strange unearthly 
radiance over peak and glacier and snow-field. 
The air was marvellously still ; the pines stood 
motionless under their heavy burden of snow ; 
even the avalanches ceased to thunder ; and a 
most impressive hush pervaded the whole forest 
and mountain world. Stutfield had been out 
all the afternoon on a long, but ineffectual, 

scramble after goat along the ridge, and was 

207 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

within two or three hundred yards of camp. 
He had taken the cartridges out of his rifle to 
chmb a band of steep rocks, and was stroUing 
towards the tents, his mind absorbed in the 
weird witchery of the scene, when suddenly 
there bounded out of the bushes, quite close 
to him, the father of all the goats — Collie's grand 
old billy, his long white fringe brushing the 
branches as he lumbered heavily out of view, 
for all the world more like a big white bear 
than a goat. At that moment the splendours 
of the sky and the mountains seemed to fade 
away into nothingness ; for on occasions like 
these the instincts of the artist and sportsman, 
which ought to go together, seem somewhat to 
clash. Still, the loss of an old billy-goat, how- 
ever large and shaggy, could hardly cause en- 
during annoyance, while the glories of that 
marvellous sunset can never be wholly erased 
from our minds. 

Unwilling to leave the mountains without 
attempting one good climb, we three, with 
Fred, started early on Sunday the 26th to 
ascend a bold rock peak nearly 11,000 feet high 
to the west of the camp. The morning was 
fairly fine, and a few feeble attempts on the 

part of the sun to assert itself gave us hopes 

208 



OUR CAMP ON GOAT PEAK 

of better weather. Following the ridge beyond 
Goat Peak for a considerable distance, we 
reached a good - sized glacier, up which we 
walked for more than an hour. The stratifi- 
cation of some of the surrounding mountains 
was most extraordinary, the rocks being twisted 
and contorted into S -shaped figures and curi- 
ous crumpled forms, while sometimes the adjoin- 
ing strata would be quite perpendicular. This 
contortion seemed general throughout the 
district, and it was far more pronounced than 
anything we saw on the eastern side of the 
range. Towards noon the clouds rolled up as 
relentlessly as ever ; and, after wandering about 
aimlessly in the fog for some time, we gave 
up the climb and returned to camp. 

The weather showed no signs of improvement ; 
provisions were getting low ; the men were the 
reverse of happy, and anxious to be getting home ; 
so next day we reluctantly retraced our steps to 
the old camping-place in the Bush valley. As 
the outfit started, a herd of goats was sighted 
on a hill a long way off, but a deep canyon 
intervened, and, if we had shot one, we could not 
have brought it to the tents. On the way down 
we came across two fine coveys of blue grouse : 

the gun was unpacked, and we bagged three 

209 o 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

brace. Needless to say, on this occasion we 
felt no fear of our provisions at the cache having 
been tampered w^ith in our absence. 

Whilst we were at the high camp Collie 
had noticed that on the south side of the Bush 
valley, at the head of a small creek, an obvious 
pass seemed to lead through the mountains 
straight to the head of the Bluewater creek, 
and so to Donald ; and he had hopes that we 
might perhaps find a short cut home by this 
route, and, at the same time, that we might have 
an opportunity of investigating the mountains 
which lay between the Blaeberry creek and the 
Bush valley. On the 28th we started, there- 
fore, down the valley with the intention of 
making our way up this creek and over the 
pass, but we were unable even to begin the 
ascent of the glen with the horses : the usual 
fallen timber lay piled thicker than ever ; and 
a canyon with precipitous sides would have 
forced us far up on to the steep face of the 
hill, where the horses could hardly have got 
along. We therefore decided to return by our 
former route along the Bush valley ; and, as 
always happened on our return journeys, we 
found travelling comparatively easy, the trail 
being cut and the summer floods having subsided. 

2IO 



Collie Surveying ; Fred Stephens, and Spencer 




Lyell Range and Alexandra Peak 



A TIRING CLIMB 

On August 29th we started early to climb 
a peak about four miles to the south of the 
river, in order to find out how the valleys ran, 
and how the mountains were situated, in that 
part of the country west of the Freshfield range 
and south of the Bush valley. Stutfield and 
Spencer were by no means anxious to undergo 
the torment of another long scramble through 
those detestable woods, but Collie wished very 
much to correct and add certain details, and, 
as far as might be, to put the finishing touches 
to his plane-table survey. In his interests, 
therefore, and in those of geographical science 
in general, we all went together, accompanied 
by Fred. As the expedition was about the most 
tiring and exasperating one we have ever taken 
up a mountain, let us hope that geographical 
science will be proportionately grateful. The 
brushwood and fallen trees, mostly small, were 
the worst we ever encountered. Pushed back 
by obstinate bushes, stopped by logs of all sizes, 
caught in the criss-cross and tangle of the 
smaller tree - trunks with interlacing spiky 
branches, bitten by every sort of insect pest, 
and half stifled by the hot moisture-laden air, 
we dragged ourselves up foot by foot. Though 
all in excellent training, we made less than 

211 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

1000 feet in two hours and a half ; and when at 
length we emerged from the stuffy air of the 
forest into the open, we felt as though we 
had wings and finished the remaining 2000 feet, 
or so, of the climb with ease. The high peaks 
of the main chain were, as usual, obscured, or 
else loomed dimly, bleared spectral shapes, 
through the watery vapour ; but fortunately 
there were no big mountains to the south-east, 
south, or west, so CoUie was able to complete 
his plane-table survey of that district, and our 
labours had not been altogether in vain. We 
returned by a somewhat different route, hoping 
to find it easier, but eventually found ourselves 
cut off from the camp by a large muskeg, the 
dangers of which, however, we disregarded, 
and, wading straight through it, got back to 
dinner. 

From the Columbia trail, which we reached 
in a few days without difficulty, we branched off 
to visit some lakes which form the source of the 
Blackwater creek. The highest of these lakes 
is situated on what may be termed a low pass, 
about 800 feet above Donald, and from this 
point the trail descends towards the Bush River 
in one direction, and to Donald in the other. 

212 



FISH LAKE 

One of the lakes, named Fish Lake, is full of 
small rainbow trout, and we camped on its 
banks for two nights. Fred having constructed 
for us an impromptu raft, we had a day's fishing 
and caught a great many trout : then on again 
next morning to Donald and civilisation in a 
downpour of rain. For some rather occult 
reason it was considered desirable that Tom 
Wilson should have as early intimation as pos- 
sible of the outfit's arrival ; so Stutfield and Spen- 
cer were deputed to mount the swiftest nags, 
to wit, Joe and a black mare yclept Dinah, and 
ride ahead into Donald. They had a most ex- 
hilarating gallop through the forest, soaked with 
the heavy rain and the dripping underbrush ; 
and reached Donald in under three hours. Joe, 
with his nose set homewards, went admirably, 
though he came down badly in a boghole, caus- 
ing Stutfield to embrace his mother earth on 
the happily soft floor of the forest. The outfit 
arrived an hour or two later. 

Our haste was quite unnecessary, as "Num- 
ber 1 " was a trifle of half a day, or thereabouts, 
behind time. There had been a landslip on the 
line ; or, as a negro porter more aptly phrased it 

on a similar occasion, "the scenery had come 

213 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

down." We spent a most uncomfortable night 
in our wet things at the station, in company 
with a very unsteady person who had been 
carousing not wisely, but too well, with his 
friends ; until at last the train came in and 
landed us at Glacier House, and under Mrs. 
Young's care, in the early morning. 



214 



CHAPTER XII 



SUNDRY MOUNTAIN ASCENTS 

At Glacier the party broke up, but before re- 
turning home we managed to do some climbing 
in the neighbourhood of the railway, which com- 
pensated us in some measure for our bad 
luck with the mountains in the Bush valley. 
Spencer, remaining at Glacier for a few days, 
made the first ascent — in company with Pro- 
fessor Arthur Michael and two Swiss guides, 
E. Feuz and C. Michel — of Peak Swanzy, one 
of the few remaining virgin summits of the 
Selkirks within reach of the hotel. The fol- 
lowing is Spencer's description of the climb : 
" Starting at 3*45 a.m., we followed the trail 
leading past Lake Marion to Mount Abbott. 
Thence we walked along the easy level ridge 
that connects Mount Abbott with a peak 
known as The Rampart. From this arete we 
dropped by easy slopes on its eastern side to the 
edge of a considerable glacier which fills the 
head of the Lilly valley. 

" The scenery at this point was of remark- 
215 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

able grandeur. Opposite to us Mount Bon- 
ney presented a huge line of ice-capped preci- 
pices rising from a broad crevassed glacier, to 
the left of which, at the head of the Lilly 
glacier, soared a graceful snow-clad cone. Peak 
Swanzy, the goal of our expedition. A rocky 
rib running up from the other side of the 
glacier offered a possible and rather tempting 
route ; but Feuz suggested that we should pro- 
bably find a better way from the col at the head 
of the Lilly Glacier. His surmise proved cor- 
rect ; for on arriving at the col, we saw that we 
could reach the summit by a rather steep, but 
easy, snow-slope. As the rocks in front of us 
looked very difficult, we traversed to the south- 
east side, and, after a charming scramble up 
rocks of no great difficulty, stepped on to the 
top a few minutes after noon. The summit, 
which is a little over 10,000 feet in height, con- 
sists of a rock- cap with a short snow ridge 
running from it in a south-westerly direction. 
It commands a view of extraordinary splendour. 
In the far distance beyond the Hermit Range 
the great chain of the Rockies showed with 
remarkable clearness against the horizon. I 
easily identified Freshfield, Forbes, Lyell, Bryce, 

and Columbia; and in my thoughts I retraced 

216 



Peak Swanzy 



ASCENT OF PEAK SWANZY 

my steps on our journey up the Bush valley, 
with all its new and interesting experiences. In 
our immediate vicinity the grand precipices of 
the loftier Mount Bonney shut out the view 
towards the west ; while beyond the great snow- 
fields of the lUecillewaet Glacier, but partially 
obscured by heavy cloud-banks, lay a tangled 
maze of peaks and glaciers, amongst which I 
was able to single out the comparatively well- 
known summits. Mounts Dawson, Fox, and 
Donkin. To the east, and much nearer, rose 
the noble form of Mount Sir Donald. 

" As Feuz did not quite like the look of the 
snow-slope by which we had ascended, we made 
our descent to the col by a rib of steep rocky 
slabs on the right, a very pleasant variation in 
the climb. From the col we crossed through a 
gap in the ridge on the other side to the Asulkan 
valley, finally reaching Glacier House at a 
quarter past six, after one of the most delightful 
days of my Alpine experience." 

Meanwhile Collie had returned to Banff, 

where, having a day or two to spare, he began 

to feel a longing once more for the smell of the 

camp-fires and the free, disreputable life of the 

woods. Accordingly, one morning down at 

Tom Wilson's house, arrangements were made 

217 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

for a start the same afternoon, with Fred 
Stephens, Wilson's eldest boy, and a small oufit, 
for the valley that lies under Mount Edith — a 
somewhat remarkable peak standing a short way 
up a creek that drains from the north side of the 
Bow valley a few miles west of Banff. It is 
visible from the railway, and resembles, on a 
small scale, the Little Dru as seen through the 
trees before approaching the Montanvert. 

Fred Stephens had always protested that 
climbing peaks, for the mere sake of climbing 
them, was foolishness — only, if sheep or goats 
could be shot by so doing, there might be some 
use in taking the trouble to get to the top of 
a mountain. From the look of Mount Edith 
Collie judged that some very good rock climb- 
ing would be required to ascend it ; and he 
looked forward to experiencing all the pleasures 
of the initiated, when he should have Fred 
danghng on the end of an Alpine rope. 

The weather was perfect ; and, following the 
valley lying on the eastern side of Mount Edith, 
a good camping-place was soon found. With 
due solemnity the bacon was cooked for the last 
time under the silent pines, for the party pur- 
posed returning to Banff the following evening ; 

and to wash the supper down Collie had brought 

218 



ASCENT OF MOUNT EDITH 

with him a bottle of Pommery. Fred, however, 
was not enthusiastic, or even pohte, to the 
champagne, remarking that he had tasted far 
better cider in his native and beloved Montana. 

After sundown the party rolled themselves 
up in their blankets; and soon the full moon 
slowly moved up the sky, sending a flood of 
light through the branches of the perfectly still 
pines, and the black shadows moved lazily across 
the grass below. On such a night who would 
change the free untainted air of the mountains 
for that of a stuffy room ? Occasionally a faint 
breeze would stir the upper branches of the 
trees, or send a whifF of the still smouldering 
camp-fire across one's nostrils — it seemed almost 
sacrilege even to think of going to sleep, and so 
miss any of the wonderful pictures in black and 
white. Presently, however, the moon set be- 
hind a neighbouring mountain ridge, and all was 
merged in darkness, only a few glittering stars 
shining coldly in the heavens. 

Making an early start next morning, Colhe 

and Fred followed the valley almost up to a 

pass that leads over into Forty Mile Creek ; 

then, turning to the left, a straight line was 

struck for the precipitous limestone wall of 

Mount Edith. A wide open gully promised 

219 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

success, — the one that leads up to the col con- 
necting Mount Edith with the next peak to the 
north. Fortunately there was no snow lying in 
the upper part of this gully ; otherwise it would 
have been foolhardy to attempt to ascend it. 
The chmbing was steep and somewhat rotten, 
but not very difficult ; and Fred declared that a 
rope was hardly necessary. On reaching the col 
Mount Edith was to the south, and it seemed 
impossible to chmb direct to the summit ; so, 
crossing the col to the western side, a series of 
traverses and climbs through holes in the ridge 
were made : we next crossed some very sloping 
slabs overhanging dizzy precipices ; then climbed 
up excessively rotten gulhes, first one way 
then another, but always getting higher, till we 
emerged quite unexpectedly on to the top. 

Of course we built a cairn, after which Fred 
amused himself by hurhng big stones down the 
cliffs — the only use he saw in such a mountain 
top was to pitch it over into the valley below. 
It was certainly an ideal place for such a per- 
formance, as the summit was composed of hme- 
stone strata set straight on end, its eastern face 
consisting of almost flawless slabs 1000 or 1500 
feet high, set at an angle somewhere between 
85° and 90°. Rock after rock Fred brought to 

220 



Mount Edith 




The Bush Pass {seef. 284) 



ASCENT OF MOUNT EDITH 

the edge, and, tilting them over, watched them 
half fall, half slide, down the smooth slabs till 
they burst in fragments perhaps 2000 feet 
below. 

To the north of Mount Edith is a still higher 
peak, that cannot be seen from below the Bow 
valley easily ; it is most remarkable in form, and 
apparently quite inaccessible. We descended by 
a much easier route down the western side; then, 
skirting across some screes, we crossed the ridge 
to the south. Below us could be seen the smoke 
of the camp-fire ; and Fred, disregarding Collie's 
warning that he would be cut off below, set off 
down a tempting-looking gully. The warning 
proved true, and, to make matters worse, the only 
possible way of escape was to traverse back again 
with great difficulty right under the peak on the 
eastern side till we nearly joined our morning's 
route. Thus we got down through the forest to 
the camp, and night saw us again in Banff. 

On September the 11th, a few days later, 
Stutfield found himself once more at Glacier 
on his way home from Vancouver. Among 
the passengers on " Number 2 " was an Ameri- 
can lady, who had ideas concerning the 
mountains. The crevasses of the Great Glacier, 
she maintained, were all artificial — they didn't 

221 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

even look natural, she said ; and it was no good 
our trying to humbug her into beheving that 
they were. It appears that not a few people 
from the States think that the glacier was put 
there by the Canadian Pacific Railway as an 
ornament — like the rock walk or the fountains 
in the middle of the lawn : and one citizen of 
the Great Republic asked the manageress of 
the hotel if it was there when she arrived ! 

The season was waning, but the weather 
was fine and the opportunity too good to lose ; 
so Stutfield engaged two of the Swiss guides 
stationed at the hotel by the Canadian Pacific 
Railway, Jacob Muller and Michel of Grindel- 
wald, and arranged to go up Mount Sir Donald 
next day. Before describing the climb, a few 
words on previous ascents and attempts upon this 
interesting mountain may not be out of place. 
Long deemed inaccessible by people on the 
spot, for some years it defied all efforts to scale 
its precipices, which from below look distinctly 
formidable — much more so than they are in 
reality. Among its earher assailants were such 
well-known mountaineers as Mr. Harold Topham 
and the Rev. William Green, of whom the 
latter attempted the ascent by the lUecillewaet 
neve, but only succeeded in chmbing the peak 

222 



ASCENT OF MOUNT SIR DONALD 



that now bears his name. The first actual 
ascent was made in 1890 by Messrs. Huber, 
Sulzer, and Cooper, by a difficult and danger- 
ous route up a couloir on the north-west face. 
The mountain then remained unclimbed for 
nine years, until in 1899 M. Leprince-Ringuet 
followed Mr. Green's route with success, de- 
scending from the col between Green Peak and 
Sir Donald, and joining the present route up 
the rocks. On the summit he found the cards 
left by his predecessors, Huber and Sulzer, thus 
disposing of the doubts which unbelieving per- 
sons had cast upon their ascent. In 1900 five 
parties reached the summit. 

The walk, as we sallied forth at 3*15 a.m., 
along the broad trail leading to the Illecillewaet 
ice-fall, was delightful — no logs or bushes to 
fight with — and a full moon shed a strangely 
eerie radiance upon the great trees, the sheen 
and glimmer of its beams making a lantern 
quite unnecessary. The trail soon ended, but 
there was a nice little path through the bushes 
beyond ; and a well-constructed moraine, very 
superior to the ordinary Swiss variety, leads to 
a glacier that mounts to the foot of the rocks. 
Dawn came slowly up over the shoulder of the 

peak, and Sir Donald stood forth, grandly sil- 

223 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

houetted against the saffron sky. At the foot 
of the final peak the most serious obstacle has 
to be passed — the schrund that stopped some of 
the first people to attempt the ascent of the 
mountain. It did not give us much trouble, 
but in some seasons the crossing of it might 
be a very difficult matter. 

Just above the schrund is a curious tunnel 
through the snow, about ten or fifteen yards 
long ; and immediately beyond it a very steep 
httle snow-slope takes you on to the rocks. 
These are nowhere very difficult according to 
modern climbing standards, but always steep 
and interesting. There was a good deal of 
fresh snow on the mountain when we climbed 
it : otherwise it might have been necessary to 
keep a sharp look-out for falling stones. After 
zig-zagging up the face of the rocks on to the 
arete, we reached the summit at 9 a.m., w^hen 
the guides much amused their "Herr" by at 
once claiming a record time for the ascent ; 
which shows that modern Alpine notions have 
already invaded America's new mountain play- 
ground ! The height of Sir Donald is 10,645 
feet, about 6600 feet above Glacier, but the 
actual summit is not visible from the hotel. 

The view from the top suffers from the 
224 



MOUNT SIR DONALD 



lack of any effective foreground, as you are 
standing on much the most striking object in 
the panorama. It is, of course, enormously 
extensive. The spectator seems to be in the 
centre of a perfect universe of mountains, a 
chaotic far-stretching wilderness of peak, snow- 
field, and valley ; which in imagination he sees 
extending hundreds of miles to the Pacific, 
nearly a thousand miles northwards to Alaska, 
and heaven knows how many thousands to 
the south. Bush valley with its mountains, 
and the grand Selkirk peak we had so often 
seen therefrom, were quite clear ; but a long 
thin line of cloud cut off the summits of Mount 
Forbes, Bryce, and other giants of the central 
chain, only the silvery spire of Columbia pierc- 
ing the vapour, and proudly overtopping its 
neighbours. 

Some care was necessary in negotiating the 

now rapidly melting snow at the beginning 

of the descent ; but, this passed, the party 

made its way down without difficulty, reaching 

Glacier at two o'clock. At the hotel Stutfield 

sat down to an excellent lunch, feeling very fit 

and hungry; and, as he walked down the line 

to the "loops" in the afternoon, he reflected 

that rock and snow climbing was, after all, a 

225 p 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

much easier and pleasanter occupation than 
forcing your way through untrodden British 
Columbian forests. Indeed, beside some of our 
expeditions in the woods the day's work seemed 
a hght one : and it was only after this chmb 
that he reahsed, by comparison, how severe had 
been our labours batthng with logs, devil's- 
club creepers, jungles, and mosquitoes, on 
the timber-choked slopes of the mountains 
around the Bush River. 

Our trip was now ended : of course we were 
not entirely satisfied — one seldom is in this 
wicked world — and wished we could have done 
more. Even supposing, however, that things 
had gone better with us at the outset, the 
weather was too persistently bad at the head 
of the Bush valley for us to have been able to 
do any serious mountaineering : and, as it was, 
we had found out nearly all we wanted to know 
about the geography of the region lying to the 
west of the main range. 

To recapitulate : practically the whole dis- 
trict lying between the Wood river and the 
Blaeberry creek is drained by the Bush River ; 
the Waitabit and Bluewater creeks merely 
take the water from the foot-hills. A large 

glacier exists at the back of the Freshfield 

226 



Mount Sir Donald 



GEOGRAPHICAL RESULTS 

group : this is the source of the south fork of 
the Bush, whilst the meltings from the Columbia 
glacier and some of the ice-fields lying at the 
base of the Lyell group flow into the north 
fork. Another system of glaciers, lying to the 
west of Mount Bryce, feed two tributaries of 
the Bush River that flow southward and parallel 
with the north fork. The magnificent snow- 
capped peak standing almost over the junction 
of the south and north forks is not Mount 
Bryce, as we had supposed, but is a new and 
unnamed mountain. As it is in full view of 
the traveller all the way up the Bush valley, 
it ought, perhaps, to be called Bush Peak. The 
great depth of the Bush valley is also of inter- 
est ; and the fact that, to start with, both from 
Mount Freshfield and Mount Columbia, the 
valleys lie parallel with the main chain shows 
that the same forces that fashioned the valleys 
on the eastern side also made those on the 
west. This pressure, in many places at the 
head-waters of the Bush, had contorted the rock 
into the most fantastic bends and loops, as we 
have previously mentioned on page 209. The 
general lie of the country was a series of more 
or less tilted strata dipping to the south-west 

and consequently producing gentle slopes in 

227 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

that direction and precipitous faces towards the 
north-east, the ranges consisting of carboni- 
ferous and Devonian limestones. 

Professor Bonney, F.R.S., kindly examined 
one or two specimens of rock that we brought 
home. In the bed of the Bush River there 
was a considerable amount of Umestone with 
fossil corals in it. Professor Bonney describes 
it as follows : "It appears to belong to the 
genus Lithostrotion, and one at least is very 
like the Martini of Britain. This belongs to 
the carboniferous hmestone age." Of another 
Umestone he says : Contains numerous frag- 
ments of organisms, but ill preserved ; some, 
perhaps foraminiferce, are like an ostreod, others 
probably mollusca." A third limestone: "The 
ground mass appears to retain traces of organ- 
isms and shows signs of pressure. The round 
spots are puzzling ; the mode of occurrence 
suggests oolitic grains, but they have a coarse 
granular structure — perhaps recrystalHsation has 
taken place." 

There appears to be only one pass below 

timber-line connecting the Bush valley with 

the east side of the range. This is the pass 

which Collie and Woolley had seen from the 

summit of Athabasca Peak. It was explored 

228 



THOMPSON PASS 

by Mr. Charles Thompson, while we were in 
the Bush valley, by way of the west branch 
of the North Fork of the Saskatchewan. As 
he is the first person who has been on its 
summit. Collie named it Thompson Pass : it 
is 6800 feet above sea-level, and below timber- 
line. 

The question of passes and sources of rivers 
amongst the Canadian Rockies is a most inter- 
esting one. Of the little tarn, called the 
Committee's Punch-bowl, which drains both 
ways from the Athabasca Pass, full mention 
has been made already. The same double out- 
flow occurs in another lake just south-east of 
the Athabasca Pass — Fortress Lake, which 
was discovered by Professor Coleman. He 
says : The lake has a curious subterranean 
outlet in a tributary of the Chaba River, 
but sends most of its waters into the Wood 
River." 

Probably, if there were a lake on the Howse 

Pass a similar state of affairs would be found, 

for the summit is quite flat, with, as Dr. Hector 

says, " a few swampy streams flowing east, a 

little further on a small creek issuing from a 

number of springs flowing westwards." Again, 

the same phenomenon occurs at the head- 

229 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

waters of the Saskatchewan and the Atha- 
basca/ 

While we were travelling west by the railway 
from Donald to Glacier, through the canyon 
of the Columbia between Donald and Beaver 
Mouth, it occurred to Collie that possibly 
centuries ago there may have been a large 
lake filling the Columbia valley to the south 
from Donald to the upper lakes. This lake 
would be formed anew if the aforesaid canyon 
between Donald and Beaver Mouth were to 
be filled up for a height of two hundred feet, 
or less, Donald being 2530 feet, while the upper 
Columbia lake is 2700 feet, above the sea. The 
south end of the latter lake is only cut off by 
about two miles of swamp from the Kootenay 
River. All along the wide Columbia valley 
up to the lakes are well-marked terraces of 
white calcareous mud, whilst at the bottom 
of the valley are a chain of great swamps. If 
the whole of this valley had been at any time 
a large lake, chiefly or wholly draining to the 
south, it is quite likely that the Kootenay River, 
as it breaks into the wide valley just below the 
Columbia lakes from the north-east through a 
rocky gorge, would gradually have silted up the 

^ See page 102. 
230 



SOURCE OF COLUMBIA RIVER 



south end of the lake, so raising the height till 
at last a weak spot was found at the north end, 
and the whole drained away down the present 
valley of the Columbia/ Moreover, one would 
gather, from the direction in which the Shus- 
wap and Spilimichene creeks flow, that they 
were flowing into a river whose course was 
south. 

Now, if in former times this great lake 
drained south, instead of north, then the head- 
waters of the Columbia must have been in the 
Bush River; and its source was amongst the 
great glaciers that sweep down from Mount 
Columbia and the Columbia ice-fields. Surely, 
for the birthplace of one of the most magnifi- 
cent rivers of the West, such a spot is more 
fitting than a swamp among the foot-hills. 
Surely its source should be where the huge 
snow -clad peaks rise high into the clouds, 
where the avalanche thunders, where the dark 
precipices keep guard over the valleys beneath, 

1 Compare Dr. G. M. Dawson's " Preliminary Report on the 
Physical and Geological Features of that Part of the Rocky Moun- 
tains hetween lats. 49° and 51° 30'," Part Annual Report, 1885, 
where he suggests that the original course of what is now the Upper 
Columbia was probably southward. When the idea first occurred 
to Collie, he was not aware that it had been thus anticipated. The 
probable source, however, of the Columbia in the Bush valley was 
not suggested by Dr. Dawson. 

231 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

and where the Rocky Mountains culminate in 
one great effort ; for there, amidst ice and snow 
in the glacier caves, is born the Athabasca, that 
old river of the lonely northland ; and there 
arise the rivulets that later become the mighty 
Saskatchewan ! 



232 



CHAPTER XIII 



TO BEAR CREEK ONCE MORE 

The following year, 1901, saw considerable 
activity among climbers and explorers in the 
Canadian Rockies. The veteran mountaineer, 
Mr. Edward Whymper, the first conqueror of the 
Matterhorn and Chimborazo, came out with four 
Swiss guides and made a series of ascents and 
observations in the neighbourhood of the Ver- 
miUion Pass ; in the Yoho valley, near Field ; 
and in the valley of the Ice River. That in- 
defatigable climber, the Rev. James Outram, 
accompanied him on some of his expeditions : 
and later on, in conjunction with Messrs. G. M. 
Weed, J. H. Scattergood, and a Swiss guide, 
Mr. Outram ascended Mount Chancellor and 
other summits along the railway, winding up 
his season's mountaineering with the conquest of 
Mount Assiniboine. Messrs. Weed and C. S. 
Thompson, with Hans Kaufmann of Grindel- 
wald as guide, climbed various peaks in the valley 
of the Ten Peaks, at the head of Moraine Lake 
near Laggan. 

233 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

Much the most interesting journey of ex- 
ploration, however, was that of Dr. Jean Habel 
up the North Fork of the Saskatchewan, over 
Wilcox Pass, and thence down the valley of the 
Sun Wapta to its junction with the west branch 
of the Athabasca. From here he ascended the 
two branches of the Chaba River, and visited 
Fortress Lake; then travelled to the head of 
the western branch of the Athabasca towards 
the northern face of Mount Columbia, of which 
he obtained a fine photograph.^ His outfit, Hke 
so many others, ran short of provisions and the 
expedition had to be curtailed ; and much good 
work of exploration, which might otherwise have 
been accomplished, was thereby prevented. 
Some day, perhaps, it will be possible to obtain 
an outfit manned and equipped with sufficient 
transport and provisions to last out a trip of 
three or four months. At present nobody seems 
to have mastered the problem ; and the prospect 
of running short of food on the journey remains 
the most serious obstacle to all projects of ex- 
tended exploration among the mountains. 

In the spring of 1902 three of us. Collie, 
Stutfield, and WooUey, made plans for another 
trip to the Canadian Rockies. Those peaks and 

1 Appallachia " (Boston), Vol. x. No. 1. 




Gorge of Bear Creek [see p. 257) 



TO BEAR CREEK 

glaciers and canyons, and the subtle charms of 
camp-life in the backwoods, had woven a spell 
around us that we could not, if we would, have 
broken. The expedition was to be mainly 
a mountaineering one ; as, apart from virgin 
mountain summits and ice-fields, we did not 
expect to break much new ground. At the 
same time, there were many points of interest 
and geographical uncertainties to be cleared up, 
as on our previous trips the panoramic views 
had been greatly interfered with by cloudy 
weather and smoke haze and the intervention 
of other peaks. It must be remembered, also, 
that the country mapped as the result of those 
journeys comprises about 3000 square miles ; 
and necessarily there were many valleys whose 
sources were difficult to trace ; glaciers and 
snow-fields the direction of whose flow was pro- 
blematical ; and, lastly, the altitude of some of 
the highest peaks was doubtful. It remained to 
discover what system of valleys lay on the 
south-west side of the Freshfield range ; to 
traverse the great Lyell glacier, upon whose ice 
no human being had probably set foot, in order 
to learn about the complicated series of snow- 
peaks in that district ; to find out how the con- 
tinental Divide ran, and how the various creeks 

235 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

of the Bush River were connected with the 
Lyell snow-field ; and, further, Collie wished to 
see if there was an easy pass across the water- 
shed between Mount Forbes and the Freshfield 
group. If any such low pass existed, it would 
be probably the only one from the Fortress Lake 
pass on the Athabasca to the Kicking Horse 
pass on the railway ; and, moreover, it would be 
useful as a means of reaching the head-waters 
of the south fork of the Bush without the toil 
of forcing one's way up the main Bush valley. 

Profiting by previous experiences, we hoped 
to avoid the starvation and other hardships we 
had endured in the valleys of the Bush, Atha- 
basca, and Saskatchewan, and generally to do 
things more comfortably. Bad weather, flooded 
rivers, and such-hke visitations of Providence, we 
could not hope to avoid ; but we thought that 
with reasonable care and forethought we might 
at any rate have a good tent and a sufficiency of 
food. With this end in view CoUie wrote to 
Fred Stephens, who had now started an outfit- 
ting business on his own account, and asked him 
to give us an estimate for a trip of seven or 
eight weeks. Fred replied, suggesting the 
quantity of flour, bacon, &c., required ; and 

Collie wrote back, nearly doubling the amount, 

236 



TO BEAR CREEK 



and directing that half should be sent on ahead 
over the Bow pass and cached at Bear Creek. 
This was done, and at the end of the trip there 
were not many provisions left over. 

We left England on July 3rd, nearly a fort- 
night earlier than usual, hoping to "pull out" 
— Anglice, go into camp — on the 19th ; but 
sundry mishaps delayed the start till five days 
later. At Banff we made the pleasing dis- 
covery that three pieces of luggage, containing 
a large proportion of our camp outfit, were 
missing: one turned up in two days, but we 
could obtain no clue whatever as to the where- 
abouts of the others. 

Reader, when your American or Canadian 
friend dilates to you on the perfection and 
quasi-infallibility of the Transatlantic system 
of " checking " baggage, don't you believe him ! 
It is a good system, which works well on the 
whole, but it is very far from being infallible ; 
and on this trip we heard of more cases of 
baggage being lost than we have ever known 
in any European country in a similar space of 
time. There was some excuse for the break- 
down in 1902, as the increase of traffic was 
very large and rapid ; the travelling trunks of 
American ladies grow bigger and ever bigger; 

237 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

labour was difficult to procure, and the good 
times had made the railway employes exceed- 
ingly independent : but the fact remains that 
such contretemps do more than anything else 
to mar the pleasure of travelling. 

At Laggan we found Mr. C. S. Thompson, 
who, with Mr. Weed and Hans Kaufmann, 
was to accompany us on the trip ; but, alas ! 
on the Monday a worse mishap even than the 
loss of our luggage upset our plans, for Mr. 
Thompson received a telegram announcing the 
destruction by fire of his home in Texas ; and 
he was forced to forego his brief annual holiday 
in the mountains and return home. It was a 
keen disappointment to us as well as to him, 
for we had looked forward with pleasure to 
spending a few weeks in camp and doing some 
good climbs with this keen and energetic 
mountaineer. 

As the lost trunks obstinately refused to 

turn up, we got together such things as were 

procurable in the village to replace the missing 

outfit, and prepared to start. Mr. Mathews 

most obligingly lent us several useful articles ; 

among others, a most magnificent bedroom 

mattress, which on the journey proved as great 

a solace to its temporary o\^Tier as it was an 

238 



TO BEAR CREEK 

annoyance to the packers ; and on Wednesday 
the 23rd we left for Laggan, where Fred was 
awaiting us with the horses and men. " Number 
One" was less punctual even than usual, and 
we reached Laggan too late to make a start 
that day. On the platform we found Fred 
with his friend Jack Robson, who was engaged 
to take charge of the culinary department in 
our somewhat extensive outfit. Fred, expecting 
us to arrive earlier, had sent the other two 
men, with the tents and most of the horses, 
ahead along the Bow trail ; so we spent our 
first night a la belle etoile outside the station. 

The evening was spent in sorting the bag- 
gage, which, owing to our fixed determination 
to make ourselves comfortable, was somewhat 
bulkier than usual. One depraved person, for 
instance, had brought a camp-bedstead. This 
luxury was viewed with the strongest disap- 
proval, as out West, for some occult reason, it 
is considered unmanly to sleep otherwise than 
on the ground. Weed, hardy man, had neither 
cork mattress nor bedstead ; but, like a true son 
of America, lay in his blanket and ground-sheet. 
Worse even than the camp-bedstead, however, 
lurked behind; and presently Fred's all-seeing 
eye fell on the bedroom mattress. 

239 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

" What's this blamed truck ? " he inquired, 
and his good-humoured face assumed an ex- 
pression of unwonted severity. 

"Truck," it should be explained, is one of 
those delightfully comprehensive western words, 
like " outfit," which can be applied to anything 
or everything; to creation at large or a water- 
bucket ; to a rifle or a kitchen utensil ; a maiden 
aunt or a mother-in-law. We explained that 
the "truck" was nothing more or less than 
what it appeared to be, a mattress, and that 
we meant to sleep on it ; whereat Robson, 
with quite unnecessary politeness, inquired if 
he should wait for the wardrobe and the rest 
of the bedroom suite, which he supposed was 
to follow later ; and Fred was certain that a 
decent pack could not possibly be made of 
such a monstrosity, that no self-respecting 
cayoose would submit to carry it, &;c., &c. So 
the talk went on till night fell ; the bedding 
(including the mattress) was spread on the 
ground, and further argument was quenched 
in slumber. 

It froze hard during the night, though thun- 
der could be heard rumbling at intervals, and 
our blankets next morning were white with 

rime. We waited till noon, in the faint but 

240 



TO BEAR CREEK 



delusive hope of finding our baggage on 
"Number One" when it arrived, and then 
started up the Bow valley. Four years had 
elapsed since we had passed along this route 
on our return from the head-waters of the 
Saskatchewan and the Athabasca ; and the 
Canadian Pacific Railway people had evidently 
not been idle in the meantime. The trail of 
evil renown was now, at any rate for the first 
five or six miles, as broad and good as any 
backwoods traveller could desire, only the criss- 
cross and jumble of logs on either side serving 
to remind us of our troubles here in former 
days. Further on, however, where the trail 
descends to the level of the Bow river, the 
improvement ceases, and the muskegs and bog- 
holes are now worse than ever, owing to the 
increase of traffic and the trampling of many 
horses' hoofs. To make a thorough job of it, 
the trail should be carried along the hillside 
past the base of Mount Hector, where, if once 
properly cut out, it could easily be maintained 
in a state of tolerable repair. 

We found the tents on the banks of the 
Bow after a ride of three hours, and were intro- 
duced to our other two men, Dave Tewksbury 
and Clarence Murray, both of them citizens of 

241 Q 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the U.S.A., who had taken part in the recent 
inrush of settlers from the western States into 
Alberta. Dave, a lumberman by trade from 
Wisconsin, was a veritable artist with the axe. 
It was a treat to see him fell a tree or chop 
up firewood; every blow fell in the right place 
to the sixteenth of an inch, and when the 
operation was completed the end of the log 
was as smooth as though it had been cut with 
a knife. The horses were all complete strangers 
to us, and at first we quite missed Joe and 
Molly and the Pinto, and the other animals 
that had shared — and largely caused — our tribu- 
lations in former years. 

Our journey to Bear Creek was an unevent- 
ful one, and we were far from regretting the 
absence of incident. Things seemed so en- 
tirely different in this charming valley from 
that miserable region of the Bush. The 
weather was fine on most days ; we had a 
well-stocked larder, and an excellent tent that 
kept out the rain; the mosquitoes were not 
too bad, though the bulldogs were terribly 
numerous and worried the cayooses a good 
deal ; while the latter seemed to have a smaller 
allowance of original sin than most pack- 
horses, and, on the whole, behaved extremely 

242 



TO BEAR CREEK 

well. Now and again one of them might be 
seen wildly careering through the woods, shed- 
ding pots and pans and kettles as he went ; while 
Moses, a sprightly old sorrel that carried the 
obnoxious mattress, showed his disgust at his 
burden by depositing it on the trail at every 
convenient opportunity — but they never tried 
to drown themselves in the lakes or swam 
about in rivers merely for the fun of wetting 
our baggage. Everything, in short, seemed to 
combine to make our pilgrimage the pleasant 
picnic we had intended it to be ; as though Fate, 
repenting of the trials wherewith she had for- 
merly afflicted us, were now bent on making 
all possible amends. 

On the second day the outfit camped, after 
a short day's march, on the banks of a stream 
descending from a pass leading over into the 
Pipestone valley, in order to wait for Collie 
and Weed, who had gone on a journey of 
exploration along the sides of Mount Hector. 
The others caught a few trout in the Bow, 
but the water was very " riley " — Anglice, 
clouded with glacial debris — and the fish 
throughout this season took exceedingly badly. 
The following evening we pitched the tents 
on the Bow summit, in suffocating heat which 

243 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

produced clouds of flies and, later on, a 
thunderstorm. From the Bow Pass a long 
march brought us to our old beautiful camping- 
ground near Waterfowl Lake at the foot of 
Pyramid and Howse Peak. Those two cloud- 
compelling mountains were, as usual, veiled in 
mist when we arrived ; but they were nearly 
clear next morning, and old Dave's wonder and 
delight at the grim black precipices and stately 
glacier- crowned peaks knew no bounds. The 
old fellow had never been in the mountains 
before, and the grand scenery was a complete 
revelation to him. " Well now, isn't that just 
wonderful ! " he kept on exclaiming, as, leaving 
his sturdy nag (his own) to find its way along 
the trail, he gazed up at the towering cliffs 
of Pyramid, whose head, thinly veiled in cloud, 
gave to Dave's inexperienced eye an impression 
of almost illimitable height. His only regret 
was that he could not bring his " old woman " 
along to enjoy these glories of Nature with 
him. 

On the way through the woods to Bear 

Creek camping-ground Fred pointed out to us 

a bear-trap belonging to two young trappers 

from Banff, Ballard and Simpson, who had 

spent the winter in a " shack " or log-cabin at 

244 



A GRIZZLY STORY 

the foot of the valley. Two or three weeks 
before we passed that way a two - year - old 
bear had been caught in the trap; and an old 
grizzly coming along got wind of him, and pro- 
ceeded at once to business. Struggling to tear his 
prey out of the trap, the grizzly had wrenched 
the staple to which it was attached out of the 
ground, and dragged the whole concern, trap, 
staple, bear, and all, down to a small muskeg 
hard by. The ground near the trap indicated 
the terrific nature of the struggle that had 
taken place ; and we followed the marks across 
the trail down to the muskeg. Here the 
grizzly had seized the poor beast in his deadly 
grip, and literally wrenched the leg which was 
caught in the trap out of the shoulder-socket, 
and then made a meal of him. Scraps of the 
victim's hide and pieces of brown fur lying 
about, as well as the marks on the ground 
and the grass and weeds crushed flat, were 
evidences of the truth of the story which one 
might otherwise have found difficult to believe. 

Early in the afternoon Mount Murchison 
came into view, and we entered the forest of 
tall pines which told us that Bear Creek was 
not far off. At five o'clock the outfit came 
to a halt on the familiar camping-ground ; and 

245 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

we proceeded at once to inspect the river with 
a view to fording it on the morrow. That 
notorious torrent, however, was most un- 
pleasantly high : its waters had worn for them- 
selves a narrower and deeper channel than 
before, and rushed by more swiftly and im- 
petuously than ever. Our examination of the 
river over, CoUie's first care was to search for 
two bottles, one of whisky, the other of brandy, 
which he had buried at the foot of a tree in 
1898, with elaborate instructions as to how 
they were to be found. You stood, compass 
in hand, at the foot of a certain tree ; then 
walked twenty-two paces north-west to another 
tree with a blaze on it ; then twenty-five paces 
due north to a tree with a white stone at its 
base, under which the bottles were buried. 
The secret had been confided to Fred and 
Peyto, and many and diligent had been the 
searches made by them and other thirsty trappers 
and prospectors, but all in vain. The ground 
looked as though bears or wild boars had been 
rooting round; but the men had dug at the 
foot of every tree but the right one, across 
which another trunk had fallen, covering the 
white stone and the burial-place of the bottles. 

We, however, had no difficulty in finding them, 

246 



BEAR CREEK 



and copious libations from their well-matured 
contents were drunk round the camp-fire that 
evening. 

On a knoll hard by, in the woods above the 
tents, we found the shack built by Ballard and 
Simpson — the first human habitation in a spot 
which future generations will probably see trans- 
formed into a populous mountain resort for 
tourists. The owners of the shack were not 
at home, being away in charge of an expedition 
up the west branch of the north fork of the 
Saskatchewan with the Rev. James Outram and 
Hans' brother. Christian Kaufmann, who had 
started from Banff more than a fortnight be- 
fore us : but on the door was pinned a note 
from Mr. Outram saying that he had returned 
from the west branch, and was now encamped 
at Glacier Lake, and would meet us (as had 
previously been arranged) at the foot of Mount 
Forbes. 

Fred had stored our reserve stock of pro- 
visions in the shack, by arrangement with the 
owners, who had also provided him with a key of 
the door. The interior, which smelt very fusty 
and damp, was filled with skins, horns, traps 
of all kinds and sizes — conspicuous among them 

being two bear-traps, cruel-looking instruments 

247 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

like gigantic rabbit-traps, and requiring a force 
of nearly 400 lbs. to open the jaws when closed 
— tools of various sorts, and other trappers' 
implements. In this lonely retreat the two 
men had passed the long Canadian winter in 
complete isolation from the outside world, shoot- 
ing and trapping with fair success, considering 
the ever-growing scarcity of game and fur- 
bearing animals. 

The sight of such a shack, or cabin, as this in 
the wilds of the backwoods brings vividly before 
one the kind of Hfe led by the trapper or miner 
or prospector up country ; and the grit and 
endurance that a man must have to enter upon 
it. The mere thought of the possible results of 
some trivial accident or mishap would be enough 
in itself to deter people of ordinary nerves. For 
instance, we heard of a case when two prospectors 
in British Columbia made a compact together 
before starting on their travels that, if either of 
them broke a leg or sprained an ankle, he was to 
be shot by the other. And how great must be 
the courage of the hunter or trapper who, in the 
depth of winter, ventures forth alone for weeks 
or months together into the woods, pack and 
blanket on back, dependent largely on his gun 

or rifle for food, and with none near to succour 

248 



THE TRAPPER'S LIFE 

in case he falls ill or meets with an accident ! 

The picture, in Milton and Cheadle's book, of 

the headless Indian corpse seated on the ground, 

dead of starvation ; the miner whose body was 

found in the woods, his pack beside him, with 

the pathetic words scrawled on a piece of paper 

pinned to a neighbouring tree, " The trail ends 

here " — these and many similar stories serve 

to remind one of the terrible fate that is for ever 

staring the solitary backwoodsman in the face. 

Probably the fact that it is always before their 

eyes tends to make them callous to the risk: 

anyhow, hundreds of men are to be found who 

will cheerfully face these dangers and, what to 

most people would be more terrifying still, the 

awful lonehness of their solitary vigils in the great 

forests and mountains ; and, what may seem 

strangest of all, not a few of them find pleasure 

in doing so. 

Nor, one would think, are the profits in these 

days large enough to compensate the trapper for 

the perils and privations incident to his trade. 

Formerly a man might with fair luck earn from 

six to eight hundred dollars in a season, but he 

cannot expect to do so well nowadays. Of 

course, whatever he makes is almost all clear 

profit, as his food and lodging and the imple- 

249 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

ments of his craft cost him very little. The 
skins of the marten and mink are the chief 
source of income, now that the beaver has grown 
scarce and his pelt less valuable : besides these 
are the lynx, ermine, musk-rat, otter, wolverine 
or glutton, and foxes of various kinds. The 
wolverine is a beast of infinite cunning, and mar- 
vellous tales are told of his ingenuity in ferreting 
out the locality of the traps and stealing the 
animals caught therein. In addition to these 
smaller beasts there are bears, black, cinnamon, 
and grizzly ; and in these days, when furs of all 
kinds are growing scarce and dear, the pelt of 
the ordinary wild mountain goat, if in good 
winter condition, finds a ready market. 



250 



1^ 





Mount Murchison 



CHAPTER XIV 



MOUNT MURCHISON AND MOUNT FRESHFIELD 

Fred Stephens was by no means inclined to 
risk his newly-purchased outfit by the passage of 
Bear Creek in its present swollen condition ; and 
the river was, if anything, rather higher next 
morning. Moreover, an examination of the 
bacon which had been stored in the shack 
showed that it had got slightly mouldy, and 
a thorough drying in the sun was considered 
desirable. The customary day's halt, without 
which few outfits leave Bear Creek, was there- 
fore decided on ; and by way of spending the 
time we arranged to attempt the ascent of the 
rocky pinnacle of Mount Murchison which faces 
and, as it were, overhangs the valley where the 
tents were pitched. It was thought that the 
highest summit, or what we had always deemed 
to be such, lay too far to the east for us to chmb 
it, at any rate in one day, from our present 
camping-ground. 

Next morning, therefore. Collie, Stutfield, 

Weed, and Hans Kaufmann salHed forth for 

251 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

what we imagined would prove quite a moderate 
expedition. Leaving the trail about half-an- 
hour from the camp, we ascended the dry bed 
of a torrent that comes straight down the moun- 
tain side, some distance northwards of the route 
we followed in 1898 up to the arete where the 
fossil forest was found. In this way we avoided 
the long grind through the woods, which, after 
our experiences in the Bush valley, we regarded 
with special aversion. The going proved ex- 
cellent, and we soon found ourselves at timber- 
line, ready f o tackle Mount Murchison with legs 
untired by log-jumping or fighting our way 
through brushwood. As we were all more or 
less out of training this was a matter of no 
slight importance. Straight above us was a 
series of shale slopes leading up to a narrow 
snow couloir, which, though very steep and 
possibly somewhat risky owing to falling stones, 
looked quite feasible ; and, as it obviously offered 
much the most direct way up the mountain, we 
determined to try it. The old route would 
doubtless be easier, but a frontal attack pro- 
mised more amusement, as well as a considerable 
economy of time. 

In a grassy basin at the foot of the rocks we 

disturbed a young he-goat who, after the manner 

252 



ASCENT OF MOUNT MURCHISON 

of bachelors of his class, was having a quiet 
lunch by himself on the succulent herbage that 
abounds at tree-line. On seeing the intruders 
he cantered off in leisurely fashion, traversing 
some tiny ledges along the face of most grue- 
some precipices in a fashion that made us 
wonder w^hy the epithet " giddy " should, of all 
others, ever be applied to a goat, and disappeared 
slowly round the shoulder of the mountain. 
There was a good deal of ice at the bottom of 
the couloir, which in dry seasons is almost bare 
of snow, and to avoid the risk of falling stones 
we took to the rocks on our right. These were 
distinctly difficult in one or two places, and we 
soon had to put on the rope. Above the rocks 
we got on to the snow which, though at a very 
steep angle, was in excellent condition. At the 
head of the couloir we crossed over to its 
northern side, enjoying on the way a striking 
ghmpse, through the opposing walls of rock, 
of Bear Creek valley and the mountains rising 
beyond. 

From the top of a rocky promontory, where 
we halted for our second meal, it was perceived 
for the first time that our objective rock peak 
was cut off from us by a mighty cleft, or notch, 
in the mountain, with perpendicular cliffs on 

253 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

either side some hundreds of feet in height. 
We were more than consoled, however, by the 
discovery that a snow-clad summit, invisible 
from Bear Creek, which rose straight in front 
of us and immediately to the right of the rock 
peak, was much higher ; and we had no doubt 
of our being able to climb it. A long, but easy, 
scramble up alternate rock and shale-slopes took 
us on to the final snow arete, which, as usual in 
these mountains, was very heavily corniced ; and 
we had to traverse along the slope, which was 
excessively steep, a considerable distance from 
the edge. 

At four in the afternoon, more than seven 
hours from the start, we stood on the maiden 
crest of Mount Murchison — or rather, a few feet 
below it, the actual top consisting of a tremen- 
dous cornice of snow that projected some 
distance over an abyss several thousands of feet 
deep. To our surprise, and great delight, we 
found we were on one of two peaks of about 
equal height — the clinometer made ours slightly 
the higher — which easily over-topped all the 
other numerous pinnacles of the Murchison 
group. Viewed from the Bow Pass the eastern- 
most summit looks considerably higher than the 

one on which we stood ; but the latter, though 

254 



The Top of Mount Murchison 




Mount P:lkin"gton {see p. 270) 



ASCENT OF MOUNT MURCHISON 

it does not appear so, is in reality a good deal 
further off. Facing us, towards the east, were 
the square-topped black tower and the castel- 
lated rock ridge that we had seen from the 
Pipestone Pass and Survey Peak : and, peeping 
under the great masses of overhanging snow, 
we could see, 7 000 feet below, the Saskatchewan 
valley stretching away eastwards, and the river 
threading its devious way, like some huge silver 
snake, between the high mud banks and pine- 
clad hillocks. We could also make out several 
minor valleys among the hills, of whose exis- 
tence we had till then been quite unaware. 
In the opposite direction the summits of Mount 
Forbes, Bush Peak, Lyell, and the Columbia 
group were capped with cloud ; but there was a 
charming view of the Middle Fork valley and 
Glacier Lake nestling among the purple hills 
beyond. 

A very brief examination of our barometers 
showed that Mount Murchison would have to 
suffer the degradation which, sooner or later, 
is the lot of most mountains in this region ; and 
to be classed henceforth among the fraudulent, 
or semi-fabulous, mountain monsters which have 
so long imposed upon the makers of maps. So 
far from its being 15,781 feet, or 13,500 as 

255 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

Hector imagined, CoUie's Watkin barometer, lent 
him by the Royal Geographical Society, only 
made it 11,300 feet above sea-level: possibly 
some future mountain explorer will bring it down 
further still until, as some American geographer 
predicted would one day be the fate of these 
mountains, it becomes a hole in the ground. 

We had intended to descend by the south- 
western arete, in order to make a more detailed 
examination of the remarkable fossil forest we 
had discovered four years previously; but the 
evening shadows were already falling, and we 
had no wish to be benighted in the woods, so 
we kept to the route by which we had ascended. 
On the way down the clouds began to lift from 
the mountains to the west, and by the time 
we had emerged from the couloir and got off 
the final rocks Bush Peak and Mount Lyell 
were quite clear. We managed to strike the 
trail before dark, and reached camp at 9.30, 
where we rejoiced to find that Bear Creek was 
considerably lower; the bacon was thoroughly 
dried, and all promised well for a start on 
the morrow. 

During the day Woolley, accompanied by 

Fred and Dave, had visited a remarkable gorge 

which Bear Creek has worn for itself in the 

256 



GORGE OF BEAR CREEK 

limestone rock about a mile above the encamp- 
ment. " In some places," Woolley writes, " the 
chasm is but six to eight feet wide ; in others 
its sides contain ancient pot-holes similar to 
those in the Glacier Garden at Lucerne, one or 
two of these rock-cauldrons being of unusual 
size." Pent up in this narrow chasm the volu- 
minous waters of the torrent rush boiling and 
thundering between walls of rock a hundred or 
a hundred and fifty feet high. The gorge was 
first discovered by Ballard and Simpson during 
their winter sojourn at the shack ; and in former 
days it appears to have been used as a crossing- 
place by the Indians — when Bear Creek was too 
high to be safely forded — by means of tree-trunks 
felled across the ravine. 

An inspection of the river early next morn- 
ing showed that it had fallen still further during 
the night, and it was now some six or eight 
inches lower than on the day we arrived. The 
outfit was accordingly packed without any more 
delay, and we started on our journey to the source 
of the Middle Fork of the Saskatchewan, Mount 
Forbes, and the Freshfield group. As our 
stock of provisions and baggage was still a 
good deal beyond the carrying capacity of the 
horses we left a large quantity behind in the 

257 R 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

shack. Bear Creek offered no terrors, and the 
crossing was effected without difficulty. It was 
Hans' first experience of fording streams on 
horseback; and, though brave as a Hon on the 
mountains, this sort of thing was not at all to 
his taste : which was not surprising, as Bear 
Creek, even when low, is always more or less 
of a trial to the inexperienced. However, he 
faced the ordeal with exemplary fortitude : only, 
when safe on the further shore, he shook his 
head gravely and in his broken English enigma- 
tically observed, " Several times you cross it ; 
but once is the last time ! " 

Across the stream we proceeded on our way 
up the Middle Fork along the south bank. The 
weather was very fine, and the scenery round this 
dehghtful spot seemed more beautiful than ever. 
In front the silver spear-head of Forbes pierced 
a sky of deepest blue ; on the left, through the 
glades in the forest, which just here is much less 
dense than elsewhere, we had peeps of the noble 
obelisk of Pyramid, by far the most striking 
object in the panorama ; while northwards was 
an uninterrupted view up the valley of the 
North Fork, with its rugged mountain masses 
on either side. The landscape in the nearer 

foreground is pleasantly diversified by open 

258 



UP THE MIDDLE FORK 



spaces in the forest, while here and there reedy 
muskegs and small tarns may be seen hidden 
away among the tangle of the trees. 

Five distinct groups of lofty mountains are 
visible from the neighbourhood of Bear Creek: 
Mount Forbes and its satellites, the Waputehk 
range, the peaks to the west of the North Fork, 
Mount Wilson, and Mount Murchison. The 
two last-named peaks, in addition to their strik- 
ing form, are geologically interesting, from the 
fact that the dip of their limestone strata differs 
in a marked manner from most of the neigh- 
bouring peaks, being towards the east. As a 
result, the " writing - desk " is reversed, as it 
were ; and there are tremendous precipices on 
the wrong, that is to say, the western side. In 
the case of almost every other mountain in this 
part of the Canadian Rockies, it is the eastern 
side that is sheer, the face towards the west 
and south-west being gently sloping. 

We camped on the river bank a mile or so 

above the mouth of the stream which comes 

in from Glacier Lake on the opposite side ; and 

in the evening Collie and Robson forded the 

Saskatchewan and rode up to Mr. Outram's 

camp, near the lake, to acquaint him of our 

arrival. Here they found Ballard and Simpson, 

259 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

who said that Mr. Outram was away with 
Christian Kaufmann on a two days' moun- 
taineering expedition. Returning to camp, they 
missed the ford in the milky waters of the river, 
and, getting into a deep hole, were swept down 
by the current and had to swim for it. 

On the afternoon of the following day, Thurs- 
day, 31st July, we pushed on, in pelting rain, to 
Collie's old camping-ground with Baker, on the 
broad wash-out near the junction of the two 
streams descending from Mount Forbes and the 
Freshfield glacier respectively. The tents were 
pitched on the exact spot which they had 
formerly occupied ; and an hour later a line 
of horses, advancing in single file across the 
shingle-flats, announced the approach of Mr. 
Outram and his outfit. On his arrival he told 
us that he and Christian had passed the night 
on the northern shore of Glacier Lake, near 
its further end, on their return from the ascent 
of a snow-peak in the neighbourhood of Mount 
Forbes. From the head of the west branch of 
the North Fork of the Saskatchewan they had 
ascended Mount Lyell and Mount Columbia; 
and they described the latter as a tremendously 
long and fatiguing tramp through the snow of 

more than twenty hours' duration. 

260 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FRESHFIELD 

Our chief ambition on this trip was to reach 
the summit of Mount Forbes, the finest and 
most commanding, and probably the most 
difficult, of the high peaks in the Canadian 
Rockies. As, however, there was still a great 
deal of snow upon it, owing to the bad weather 
which had prevailed all through the early sum- 
mer, we thought it better to wait a few days 
before attempting the ascent. It was therefore 
decided that the next move of the combined 
outfits should be up to the foot of the Fresh- 
field glacier, with a view to the ascent of Mount 
Freshfield ; but, as the weather next morning 
showed little sign of improving, we did not 
move camp. Fred and Dave sallied forth to 
investigate and cut out the trail which Peyto 
had made in 1897 ; while Christian and Hans 
Kaufmann took their rifles up the mountain in 
search of goat. They shot two small ones near 
the snout of a glacier in an adjoining canyon, 
and had to carry the carcases home over a 
mountain spur more than 2000 feet above the 
level of the valley. Towards evening the clouds 
began to lift ; the snowy dome of Howse Peak, 
emerging from the mists, seemed, as it were, 
poised in mid-air; and Forbes slowly unveiled 

his noble outline and proportions to our view. 

261 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



Standing nearly north-west of our camping- 
ground in the valley, the great peak was admir- 
ably situated for striking sunset effects. This 
evening Nature had reserved for our benefit 
some of her finest pyrotechnic displays, and 
the mighty pyramid of Forbes was a fitting 
subject for so splendid an illumination. The 
eastern face of the mountain falls almost sheer 
from the summit in a tremendous precipice 
3000 feet in depth ; and, as the huge red globe 
of the sun sank slowly out of sight, the watery 
vapours that still hovered over the peak glowed 
with a marvellously variegated radiance; and 
the terrific black crags, surmounted by their 
tiny diadem of snow, stood grimly forth in a 
gorgeous setting of rainbow- colon red fires. 

The clouds had almost entirely disappeared 
next morning, and, turning our glasses on the 
mountain, we examined it from a severely pro- 
fessional, that is to say, mountaineering point 
of view. There was no doubt whatever that 
it would afford us two or three thousand feet 
of pretty stiff climbing ; but the lower part 
of the arete, which was nearly all rock, did 
not look at all difficult. As a matter of fact, 
it proved in the event to be by no means so 
easy as we supposed. About three-quarters of 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FRESHFIELD 

the way up the arete was a rocky pinnacle — 
a counterpart in miniature of the Pic Tyndall 
on the Itahan side of the Matterhorn — and 
beyond it a very ugly -looking notch, which 
would certainly be troublesome, though we 
hoped that when we saw it from the other 
side it might present a less formidable appear- 
ance. The last part of the climb would be 
along the narrow snow arete, fringed with most 
unpleasantly large cornices overhanging the great 
precipices of the eastern face. 

Before packing the outfits for our journey to 
the Freshfield glacier we despatched Dave and 
Clarence, with four of the horses, back to Lag- 
gan to pick up the lost baggage, as well as 
certain cases of whisky and provisions which 
Fred had cached along the Bow trail. Peyto's 
trail through the woods to the Freshfield glacier, 
cut in 1897, was still in a tolerable state of 
repair ; and we made our way there easily 
enough in the afternoon. The tents were 
pitched in a cosy nook in the forest a few 
hundred yards from the snout of the glacier, 
commanding a fine view of Mount Freshfield at 
the head of the great snow-field ; and a pleasant 
breeze blowing from the ice cooled our fevered 

brows and mitigated the attacks of the mosqui- 

263 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

toes and bulldogs. It rained hard that night, 
and next day, Sunday August 3rd, was a day of 
rest. It was all new ground to everybody in 
the party, except Collie : so, when in the after- 
noon it cleared up and the sun came out, we 
took a walk up the glacier almost to the foot of 
Mount Freshfield. The glacier seemed exactly 
the same as when Collie and Baker had visited 
it five years previously, except that the huge 
blocks of stone, mentioned on page 55, had 
moved somewhat lower down the ice. 

The air was very clear after the rain that 
had fallen in the night, and we had a good view 
over the immense ice-field stretching away for 
miles on either side. The peaks at its head 
seemed to us, on closer acquaintance, to be 
somewhat disappointing ; and it was evident that 
Mount Freshfield was not so high as we had 
previously supposed. However, it is the usual 
fate of newly-discovered mountains, unless they 
have been scientifically measured, to be partially 
shorn of their estimated stature ; and the peaks 
about the sources of the Saskatchewan and the 
Athabasca were not destined to form exceptions 
to the general rule. The persistent smoke-haze 
in 1898, the clouds and bad weather of our Bush 

river trip, had caused us somewhat to over-esti- 

264 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FRESHFIELD 



mate the heights of the mountains that we had 
not actually climbed or seen close at hand. 
Omne tenehrosum pro magnijico : looming mys- 
teriously through the murky atmosphere they 
had certainly appeared grander and larger in 
bulk than when seen with their outlines sharp- 
cut against a clear sky. Fortunately, in their 
case the degradation will not be anything like 
so severe as in the cases of Mount Brown, 
Mount Hooker, and Mount Murchison, of 
whose sad fate the reader has learned in the 
foregoing pages. 

Next morning being quite fine, we rose at 
daybreak and started — a party of seven climbers. 
Collie, Outram, Stutfield, Weed, and Woolley, 
and the two Kaufmanns — for the ascent of 
Mount Freshfield. Robson, who had never 
been on a glacier and was anxious to see some 
of the wonders of the ice world, came with us 
as far as the foot of the peak, a tramp of three 
hours from the tents. Here the caravan halted 
for a little light refreshment ; and then we com- 
menced the climb, after bidding farewell to 
Robson, and showering upon him copious advice 
and instructions as to how not to fall through 
the treacherous crusts of snow, below which 
lurked dangerous crevasses. We followed a 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

similar route to that taken by Collie, Baker, 
and Sarbach in 1897 ; but found an easier way a 
little to the right up the band of rocks that runs 
along the base of the peak. We then made our 
way diagonally up a steep snow-slope on to the 
higher ice plateau. The glacier was in distinctly 
better condition than on the former occasion, 
and, being thickly coated with snow, much less 
step- cutting was needed. At eleven o'clock a 
halt was called on the eastern arete, at the place 
where the 1897 party had stopped, and we 
enjoyed a good rest and a substantial meal. 
The weather was fine and time was not par- 
ticularly pressing, as there were no woods to go 
through, or difficult glacier to get off, at the end 
of the day ; and we felt it would matter little 
if darkness overtook us before we got home. 

At the same time we were very anxious that 
the day should remain fine, in order that we 
might see the country on the west side of the 
mountain, which was a blank on Collie's map : 
also the complicated geography of the south 
fork of the Bush valley would be capable of 
being followed for the first time ; and, lastly, 
the doubts as to whether a low pass existed 
between the Lyell and Freshfield ice-fields 

could be cleared up. However, long before we 

266 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FRESHFIELD 

arrived on the final arete of our peak this last 
question was settled, and it was with much 
satisfaction, as we mounted higher and higher, 
that Collie could see how the valley on the 
south side of Forbes took a bend to the south- 
west, joining a similar depression that ran north- 
east from the south fork of the Bush. 

The party was on two ropes, the first con- 
sisting of Hans, Stutfield, WooUey, and Collie, 
the other of Christian, Weed, and Outram. 
For some distance above the breakfast-place 
the climbing was easy enough, and we began 
to fancy we might reach the summit without 
serious difiiculty. Higher up, however, the 
arete was broken by several formidable gen- 
darmes, or buttresses of crag, with some pretty 
difficult rock-faces, which gave a good deal of 
trouble. At first we thought of traversing 
below on the left ; but the rocks were too 
steep and insecure to render the operation a 
safe one, even supposing it had been prac- 
ticable. In the end we kept to the crest 
of the arete the whole way, Hans nego- 
tiating the bad places with much skill. As 
usual, the chief difficulty consisted in the 
abominably rotten and splintered character of 

the rock; but one or two narrow cracks, or 

267 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

chimneys, served us in good stead, and foot by 
foot we gradually made our way tiU we sud- 
denly found ourselves on the snow cornice 
within a few yards of the summit. 

Our height, as previous consultations with 
the barometers had led us to anticipate, was 
barely 11,000 feet; but, if the peak was lower 
than we had previously supposed it to be, it had 
at any rate afforded us an excellent cHmb. The 
prospect from the top, owing to the central 
position occupied by the mountain between the 
Laggan and Waputehk groups and the Lyell 
and Columbia ice-fields, is probably unsurpassed 
in the Canadian Rockies. The splendid mass of 
Bush peak seemed quite close, with Goat Peak 
and the scene of our labours at the head of the 
Bush valley immediately to the left. The 
canyon of the south fork of the Bush was 
below us to the north-west, with, as we had 
imagined must be the case, a glacier at its head 
discharging its water into the river. To the 
north were all our old friends of 1898, — Colum- 
bia, and Athabasca peak, Alberta, with the 
Twins straight in front, appearing to be part 
of it ; the Dome, Saskatchewan, the three- 
headed Lyell, and many more ; some standing 

out clear, others with their heads cut off by 

268 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FRESHFIELD 

the thin lines of grey cloud that so often mar 
the views in these mountains. 

Much nearer, and quite free from cloud, by far 
the most commanding feature in the view, was 
the stately pyramid of Forbes ; and we scanned 
for the first time, and with critical eyes, the 
western side of the arete by which we hoped to 
climb it. It was not particularly gratifying to 
find that the notch looked even worse from this 
side than from the other, as the cliffs immedi- 
ately underneath fell perfectly sheer ; and there 
was evidently no chance whatever of our being 
able to traverse below on either side. A brief 
comparison with the height of our own peak was 
enough to show that Forbes would have to 
come down in the world at least as much as 
Freshfield. 

There is a great, if undefinable, pleasure in 
standing on a high mountain summit in a 
country but imperfectly known; so many un- 
certainties vanish in a moment, often with the 
comment — spoken or unspoken — "I thought 
so ; " while a host of new possibilities and further 
queries take their place. One of those queries 
which could not be answered was the height of 
the splendid pyramid of snow gleaming far away 

in the Selkirks, which we used to see day after 

269 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

day from the Bush valley. Now, from a still 
greater distance, its height seemed even greater ; 
but what that height may be must be left to 
others to determine. 

A keen wind, driving a light scud of mist 
before it, was blowing from the west, so we did 
not linger on the top longer than was necessary 
to make the required observations. W e went 
down by a different route on the southern face ; 
slowly and carefully for the first six or eight 
hundred feet, as the slope was very steep and 
the crust of snow in places did not seem alto- 
gether secure. Lower down it was all plain 
sailing; and, crossing the upper ice-field at a 
good smart pace, we soon found ourselves at the 
foot of the peak, and reached camp shortly after 
seven. 

As the neighbouring peaks of Pilkington and 
Walker did not look particularly attractive, and 
we were anxious to attack Mount Forbes as 
soon as possible, we returned without further 
delay to our camping-ground in the Saskat- 
chewan valley. During the two following days, 
August 6th and 7th, Fred and Ballard and 
Simpson cut trail along the left bank of the 
canyon leading up to the base of Forbes. The 

hot sun meanwhile was exerting its power on 

270 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FRESHFIELD 



the snow ; and we could hear the avalanches 

thundering at intervals down the great eastern 

precipices of our peak. On the 6th CoUie, 

Outram, Weed, and WooUey spent a delightful 

summer's day chmbing on to a broad alp that 

lies to the east and north-east of the mountain. 

This alp is the largest we know of south of 

Wilcox Pass. In the early summer it must be 

carpeted with flowers : even in August there 

were many still in bloom, whilst the remains of 

numberless others could be seen. It seemed to 

be a favourite haunt of the wild goat, and a 

herd of over fifty was found browsing peacefully 

on the hill-side. Directly, however, they caught 

sight of their human enemies they moved off 

towards the precipices that overlook the valley 

of the Saskatchewan on the east. Having seen 

the last of the goat. Collie and Weed, climbing 

to the north side of the alp, ascended a small 

peak, which afforded a splendid view in every 

direction except the north. Forbes looked very 

grand across an intervening dip in the hills ; and 

to the left of it the pass leading over into the 

Bush valley, which we have since named Bush 

Pass, was plainly visible. 

Next morning the horses got lost in the 

woods, but were tracked and recovered by 

271 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

Robson and Collie ; and in the afternoon the 
latter made a series of measurements of Mount 
Forbes by means of a base line, a Steward's 
surveying telemeter, and a clinometer. As the 
mean of two observations he made out its alti- 
tude to be about 12,250 feet, or more than a 
thousand feet less than Dr. Hector and others 
had supposed it to be. This height was a disap- 
pointment to us all, even though we had made 
up our minds that it would have to be consider- 
ably lowered ; but, as has already been pointed 
out, such degradation is the common lot of the 
higher summits in the Canadian Rockies. 



272 



CHAPTER XV 



MOUNT FORBES AND HOWSE PEAK 

As soon as the trail was cut the horses were 
packed and the two outfits moved up the canyon 
to make a base camp for the ascent of Mount 
Forbes. The Forbes canyon is infinitely finer 
than the valley descending from the Freshfield 
glacier ; indeed, for a combination of peak, 
glacier, gorge, and forest scenery, there is 
nothing to surpass it in the Canadian Rockies. 
If the trees are not quite so tall and stately as 
those of British Columbia, they are still very 
grand, and their grouping in places is most 
beautiful. The dampness of the climate — ^for 
Forbes, owing to its height and solitary pre- 
eminence, is, like Pyramid and Howse Peak, a 
great compeller of clouds — causes the floor of 
the forest to be covered with a bright carpet of 
greenest moss ; and the luxuriance of the under- 
growth, the ruin and tangle of fallen trees, were 
worthy almost of the Bush or Columbia valleys. 
High above us great peaks towered ; and from 

the glaciers overhanging their lower cliffs fell 

273 s 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

innumerable cascades, some with a fair body of 
water, others mere filmy wisps of undulating 
spray that were almost dissipated by the breeze 
before they reached the bottom. The trail, 
which was pretty rough and broken by numer- 
ous water-courses, took us at first some distance 
up into the woods, as the torrent has worn for 
itself a deep and most picturesque gorge through 
the rocks, and the ground near it is quite im- 
passable. Presently, however, the valley opened 
out somewhat, and we were able to descend to 
the river and travel along the bank. The tents 
were pitched near the foot of the rocky snow- 
clad cone of Forbes, about half a mile short of 
the former site in 1897, in a small clear space 
that had been denuded of trees many years ago 
by a huge avalanche that, falling from the south 
side of the valley, had crossed the stream and 
swept away the forest for perhaps a hundred 
yards up the opposite face. 

Next morning we made our final pre- 
parations for the ascent ; and, after a more 
than usually substantial lunch, we shouldered 
our packs for a bivouac above the pine-woods 
on the southern slope of the mountain. On 
the way through the woods the party got 

separated : Outram, Stutfield, Woolley, and 

274 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FORBES 

Hans, climbing higher up into the forest 
than the main body, found their way cut off 
by a gorge with perpendicular rock walls, 
through which rushed tumultuously a small 
branch of the Saskatchewan. After some 
search they found a tree - trunk that had 
fallen across the ravine ; and on this some- 
what precarious bridge, with the water boil- 
ing and foaming many feet below, they 
effected a crossing. Christian, who had gone 
on his own account still higher up into the 
woods, found at the head of the gorge a very 
fine waterfall, and got over the stream above 
it without much difficulty. The rest of the 
party had no trouble with the river, which they 
crossed near its mouth, but they got involved 
in some very bad timber, and reached the 
bivouac some time after the others. 

Above the trees was a sort of miniature alp, 
carpeted with a profusion of crimson painter's 
brush, yellow lilies, and other wild flowers and 
heath ; and we found an exceedingly snug and 
sheltered sleeping-place just on the verge of the 
forest. Heather spread thickly on the soft mossy 
ground made most luxurious beds, while the 
night was beautifully fine and warm. Forbes, 

grim and majestic, stood sentinel over us ; and, 

275 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

with the pine-branches for a canopy, the steely- 
blue, star-spangled firmament for our roof, and 
a neighbouring brook murmuring a not too loud 
lullaby, everything was as pleasant and com- 
fortable as any reasonable person could desire. 

We did not forget that to-day, August the 
9th, was Coronation Day, and it was a pity, 
perhaps, that we could not have celebrated it 
on the top of Mount Forbes. Tea and a little 
weak whisky and water were the most generous 
fluids we possessed wherein to drink their 
Majesties' health ; but, as a memento of the 
occasion, we named a fine peak to the south, 
with a drapery of whitest snow, and a singularly 
beautiful glacier clinging to its northern face 
— Coronation Peak. "Alexandra Peak" was 
another name suggested, but this was reserved 
for some grander and more striking summit. 

It was still quite dark when the guides, in 
orthodox Alpine fashion, roused us from our 
lairs ; and at 5 o'clock (4 a.m. by British Col- 
umbia time) we were off. The weather was 
perfect, with a light but cool breeze blowing. 
Grass and shale-slopes, easy rocks, and a tramp 
up a small snow-covered glacier brought us to 
the arete ; and from this point the climbing 

was pretty stiff and continuous. The rocks, 

276 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FORBES 

which had looked easy enough from below, 
proved to be no child's-play, being a good deal 
steeper than we had anticipated, and very de- 
ficient in handhold or foothold : indeed, one or 
two pitches, forty or fifty feet high, were dis- 
tinctly difficult. On our right the face of the 
mountain was hollowed out into a large corrie, 
with sides of brown scaly rock suggestive of 
rhinoceros hide, that were most unprepossessing : 
in fact, it must be admitted that Forbes is much 
more beautiful at a distance than when you are 
actually standing upon him. 

Owing to the steepness of the rocks some 
hours elapsed before a convenient breakfast- 
place presented itself; and by the time we 
found one we were all pretty hungry. Above 
the breakfasting -place we left the arete and 
skirted a short distance to the right, arriving 
on the summit of the miniature Pic Tyndall 
soon after half-past ten. From here we dropped 
down into the dreaded notch, and the gymnase, 
or sensational part of the climb, began. Beyond 
the notch was a smooth upright buttress that 
was decidedly formidable, and the arete con- 
tracted to a narrow knife-edge of rock set at 
a very steep angle. Very slowly, inch by inch, 

we edged our way upwards — now a cheval, 

277 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

astride of the uncomfortably sharp crest of the 
ridge, now clinging like limpets to the rocks 
at the side, for there was very little to catch 
hold of. On the left the chfFs fell perfectly 
sheer for some hundreds of feet, with mingled 
snow and rock declivities fifteen hundred feet 
or so below : on the right was the great pre- 
cipice of the eastern face. The climb at this 
point resembled that on the Zinal side of the 
Rothhorn more than anything else with which 
we are acquainted ; but the rocks were not 
nearly so good. 

We were in two parties, as on Mount Fresh- 
field, and Christian Kaufmann led up admirably. 
The second party, by some mistake, had only 
brought an eighty-foot rope, which was not nearly 
long enough for four people on a climb of this 
character ; and Collie, recognising that the short 
distance between each chmber was an element 
of considerable danger, unroped and remained 
behind until the difficult rocks were surmounted, 
when he followed with the two guides. While 
Hans Kaufmann, with Stutfield and Woolley, 
was negotiating an exceptionally nasty bit, a 
large chunk of rock gave way under his feet and 
rolled with a clatter over the cliff on our right. 

Luckily, he only fell a couple of feet or so, and 

278 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FORBES 



managed to grab the edge of the arete with his 
right hand in time to avert what might otherwise 
have been a catastrophe. 

Towards the top the rocks became most extra- 
ordinarily rotten, alternating with intervals of 
snow cornice. To quote from Woolley's paper ^ 
in the Alpine Journal: " The narrow crest of the 
ridge seemed to be held together only by the snow 
frozen against its sides, and in case of the snow 
melting it appeared that the first westerly gale 
might easily hurl the whole structure down the 
great eastern precipice, on its way to augment 
the shingle-flats of the Middle Fork. In places 
the piled-up snow certainly favoured us by 
bridging over spaces where the loose rocks, if 
bare, would have been a source of danger." At 
one part the sensation was as if we were walking 
along the top of a very ill- constructed Scotch 
dyke — only with a big precipice below on either 
side — although, doubtless, having withstood the 
buffeting of the tempests that beat upon the 
peak, there was little fear of its proving unequal 
to supporting our puny weight. A straddle along 
a most insecure-looking edge of wind-drifted 
snow — a very chilly and uncomfortable sort of 
saddle — was the last of our acrobatic perfor- 

1 Alpine Journal, Vol. xxi., No. 160. 
279 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



mances ; and a short snow- slope terminating in 
a cornice overhanging the eastern escarpment 
led us, soon after two o'clock, to the little snow- 
cap that forms the summit. 

If the aneroids were to be believed, the 
height of our mountain was even less than Collie 
had made it with his measurements in the valley 
of the Saskatchewan, being only about 12,000 
feet ; but the exceptional fineness of the weather 
may have caused the barometer to give too low 
a reading. The view was similar to that from 
Mount Freshfield, minus one important feature, 
namely, the peak on which we stood ; but, the 
day being finer, every mountain summit was 
perfectly free from cloud, and the Columbia 
group and Athabasca peak were quite plain, 
with the Twins more than usually prominent. 
From the Columbia valley, north of Donald, 
a dense column of smoke, rising high above the 
trees, betokened the starting of a forest fire, 
which for many days to come was destined to 
prove a sad impediment to our views and photo- 
graphing. Up till now we had fortunately been 
exceptionally free from this annoyance. To 
Collie the view from Forbes was of much value, 
for while we were in the Bush valley we had 

never been able to see what lay between Forbes 

280 



Mount Forbes from the East 




View Northwards from Summit of Mount Forbes 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FORBES 

and the Bush peak. To-day that part of the 
country lay at our feet ; also we could see the 
whole of the great Lyell ice-field, and how the 
west branch of the north fork of the Saskatche- 
wan bent round up to the Columbia snow-field 
and Mount Bryce. 

As on Mount Freshfield, we varied the 
route on the descent ; and, on the suggestion 
of Christian Kaufmann, who had seen the north- 
west face of Forbes about ten days before, the 
whole party was roped together and went down 
the snow slopes on the north-western side. The 
slope in places was tremendously steep, but 
luckily the snow was in perfect order, being soft 
enough to make step-cutting easy, while the 
cold wind solidified it sufficiently to prevent 
its giving way under our feet. When we saw 
this face ten days later from the Lyell ice-field 
it was seamed and scarred by the fall of large 
masses of the snow crust, which had avalanched 
away in huge flakes from the surface of the 
mountain ; and we thanked our lucky stars that 
it had been in such excellent condition when 
we had to go down it. For over 1500 feet 
Christian had to cut every step ; but at last 
we reached a small col, which was the con- 
necting link between the massif of Forbes and 

281 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the mountains on the west. A band of cHfiPs 
skirting the foot of the peak gave us some 
trouble, and we had to make a considerable 
detour before we could find a gully that enabled 
us to descend. From the col we glissaded 
rapidly to the glacier below ; then, skirting 
underneath the great western precipices of 
Forbes, we came to the foot of the southern 
ridge, up which we had climbed in the morning. 

It was past eight, and the sun had just set, 
when we got back to the bivouac. There was 
yet another hour of daylight, but, not caring to 
tackle those terrible woods with our heavy 
packs in the dusk, we decided to spend a second 
night on the mountain. This was no great 
hardship, as the weather still remained fine and 
we had enough food to last us ; so, lighting a 
big bonfire, we talked over the climb, and then, 
ensconcing ourselves in our sleeping-bags, once 
more slept comfortably under the pines. The 
night, like the previous one, was extraordinarily 
warm ; although at the camp far beneath us 
in the valley the temperature was below freez- 
ing-point, and every morning, when we emerged 
from our tents, the bushes for two hundred 
yards on either side of the icy waters of the 

stream were thickly covered with rime. At 

282 



ASCENT OF MOUNT FORBES 

our bivouac high up among the great fir-trees 
we found our sleeping-bags uncomfortably hot, 
and at dawn next morning, the moment the 
full orb of the sun topped the shoulder of the 
hill to the east, the air was full of mosquitoes. 
This remarkable warmth may perhaps have 
been due to the dense forest becoming much 
heated during the daytime by the sun ; then, 
owing to the tendency of the hot air to rise, 
a slow but continuous current of air filtered 
up the mountain side among the trees, so 
keeping us warm all through the night. 

So comfortable were we that it was late before 
breakfast was finished and we made our plans 
for the day. Collie, Outram, and Weed started 
off to explore the newly discovered Bush Pass, 
while the others shouldered our somewhat 
bulky impedimenta and tramped down through 
the woods to the camp. At the tents appeared 
Fred and Robson, with faces as long as their 
arms, greatly scared at our late arrival and the 
non-appearance of the other three members 
of the party. Fred, armed with our spare ice- 
axe, was about to start out at the head of 
a search-party, and expressed himself strongly 
on the subject of climbing mountains for mere 

amusement. In the background were Dave 

283 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

and Clarence, apparently less concerned for 
our safety, but — most blessed sight ! — with the 
missing baggage which they had found at 
Laggan on their arrival. 

Meanwhile the others, after a fatiguing 
tramp through the woods, had reached the 
Bush Pass. Collie had hoped to find it prac- 
ticable for horses, but there was a short but 
steep snow- slope on the eastern side up which it 
would be difficult to take baggage-animals. In 
any case, to get an outfit even to the foot of the 
pass would mean an immense amount of cutting 
for the first few miles, though higher up the 
valley opens out. On the west side there 
seemed to be no snow or other difficulty, the 
valley stretching in a south-westerly direction 
till it joins the south fork of the Bush River, 
which runs at right angles to it. All the rocks 
on the summit are heavily glaciated, and at one 
time a huge glacier must have poured over 
it, whether in a northerly or southerly direction 
it is impossible to say. The height by the 
aneroid barometer was 7800 feet, or well above 
timber-Hne. 

Next morning the partnership between the 

two outfits, having accomplished the purpose 

for which it had been formed, was dissolved. 

284 



LIFE IN CAMP 

Mr. Outram and his party returned post-haste 
to their former quarters in the west branch, 
where, in company with Christian Kaufmann, 
he cHmbed Mount Bryce and another peak 
on the LyeU range. We, less energetic, pre- 
ferred to take a brief rest after our labours, 
and tasted the dehghts of a lazy day in camp. 
Yet were we not altogether idle ; for Woolley, 
who seems as he grows older to get more enter- 
prising than ever, climbed up on to the slopes 
of Coronation Peak with his big camera, and 
took some admirable photographs of Mount 
Forbes. Collie, Stutfield, and Weed did not 
stir from the tents. They found plenty to do, 
however ; for in camp -life there need never 
be any lack of occupation for an off day. 
Especially had we found this to be the case 
in the absence of Dave and Clarence, which 
had left us very short-handed ; and we often 
had to give a helping hand in unpacking the 
horses, putting up the tents, fetching water, or 
chopping firewood. Then, when the camp was 
fixed, there were always onions to be peeled and 
boiled, clothes to be mended or washed, boots to 
be greased, photographic plates and films to be 
changed, baggage to be arranged and the com- 
missariat to be examined, dishes and cups and 

28s 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

plates to be washed up, and a hundred and one 
other odd jobs to be done — Collie on occasions 
practised the intricacies of the " diamond hitch " 
— which together go to make up life in the 
backwoods. Doubtless if one were compelled 
to do these things they would be less agreeable ; 
the pleasure consists in doing them because you 
feel so disposed. 

On the 13th the camp was moved into the 
adjoining valley leading up to the Howse Pass, 
and we took up our quarters at the foot of 
Howse Peak with a view to chmbing that moun- 
tain. Next morning, emerging from the woods 
after a tiring climb of over two hours, we followed 
a rocky ridge leading straight up towards our 
peak. Presently, however, we found ourselves 
cut off by a couple of precipitous rock faces 
intersecting the ridge. The first was negotiated 
without much difficulty, but the second proved 
a more formidable affair. Hans and Woolley, 
after expending much time and labour and 
performing some really remarkable acrobatic 
feats, succeeded in getting down a perpendicular 
rock chimney about fifty feet high : the rest 
of the party, less avid of glory and doubtful 
if time would allow us all to follow in their 

wake, preferred the safer but more undignified 

286 



ASCENT OF HOWSE PEAK 

course of descending into the valley and re- 
mounting to the ridge further on. The remain- 
der of the climb was a long snow grind, with 
only a few crevasses here and there that required 
a certain amount of care ; and we reached the 
top eight hours from the start. Howse Peak, 
by aneroid barometer, is apparently the same 
height as Mount Freshfield, and it shares with 
Balfour the primacy of the Waputehk range. 

The summit is formed of a most enormous 
snow cornice running along the ridge for a 
great distance, and overhanging the terrific 
precipices which line the western side of Bear 
Creek above Waterfowl Lake. Crawling on 
our stomachs one by one to the edge, while 
the others held a firm grip of the rope, we 
looked over. The rocks fell absolutely sheer for 
some thousands of feet, and the valley, with its 
rolling pine-clad hills, and the river, a mere ribbon 
of pearly grey, winding between green meadows 
and dull drab shingle-flats, lay spread out imme- 
diately below us. The rocky pinnacle of Pyra- 
mid was quite close, and at the foot of its 
precipices, 5000 feet in depth, a sea-green lake 
of considerable size, that we had not seen before, 
lay amid the pines. The rest of the view was 

spoiled by the smoke-haze, our ancient enemy, 

287 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

recalling memories of our trip in 1898. The 
nearer mountains loomed grimly through the 
fog; and a fine peak on the eastern side of 
the Freshfield group was named by Collie after 
Sir Martin Conway. Forbes could just be seen 
lifting its head high above all its neighbours, 
but everything beyond a radius of ten or twelve 
miles was quite invisible. The forest fires, it 
was evident, were beginning in real earnest ; 
and with deep disgust we saw volumes of 
smoke issuing, as from the crater of a volcano, 
from the lower end of the Glacier Lake valley, 
whither we had intended to shift our camp 
on the following day. Clearly we were in for 
another bad time, as far as scenery and photo- 
graphy were concerned; but when we were 
half-way down the mountain side the haze 
became somewhat less dense, and we had a 
most beautiful view that embraced many of 
the most characteristic features of Canadian 
Rocky Mountain landscape. 

The sun was low above the horizon ; the 
lurid brassy glare, which is the inevitable 
accompaniment of smoke in the atmosphere, 
overspread the sky, and the graceful forms of 
the mountains, their outlines softened by the 

all-prevailing vapour, towered high above the 

288 




Fording the Saskatchewan 



ASCENT OF HOWSE PEAK 



dark mysterious pine-woods and gleaming glaciers. 
Beneath us were the broad sandy bars and 
shingle-flats at the head of the west fork of 
the Saskatchewan, whose numerous winding 
rivulets and streams flowed glittering in the 
fading sunlight, like a tangled skein of golden 
threads, amid rocky knolls and pebbly islands 
crowned by clumps of firs. A land of infinite 
beauty and strange subtle charm — melancholy, 
no doubt, even gloomy, in certain of its aspects ; 
especially when the evening shadows rest on 
the sombre and monotonous expanse of forest, 
and the departing sun leaves the mountains 
grey and cold ; but, however cheerless the scene 
at nightfall, one reflects that the peaks will be 
gilded anew in the morning, and that the full 
light of day will lend fife and animation even 
to the darkest recesses of the woods. 



289 



T 



CHAPTER XVI 

GLACIER LAKE AND THE LYELL ICE-FIELD 

It had been our intention to journey straight 

from Howse Peak to Glacier Lake, but the 

fire that was evidently raging in the valley 

of the latter made a preliminary inspection 

desirable. We therefore pitched the tents on 

our previous camping-ground nearly opposite 

the mouth of the Glacier Lake stream, and 

in the afternoon Fred, Stutfield, and Weed 

rode across the Saskatchewan to the lake. The 

fire was burning merrily at the further end, and 

the forest at the water's edge was belching 

forth big columns of dun-coloured smoke, while 

smaller patches of brushwood were ablaze higher 

up the mountain- side. The woods at the nearer 

end were as yet quite untouched by the fire ; 

so on the following day we moved the outfit 

over the river up to the lake. The sand on 

the further side of the wash-out, as well as 

some high banks of white clay lining the river, 

was covered with goat tracks, and we found 

tufts of their wool clinging to the bushes all 

290 



GLACIER LAKE 

over the place. Curiously enough, the Rocky 
Mountain goat has a white woolly pelt, while 
his neighbour the bighorn, or mountain sheep, 
is covered with a coat of straight tawny hair. 
The clay bluffs along this part of the Saskat- 
chewan are heavily impregnated with salt, and 
the goats come down to the licks in large 
numbers. It is a great mistake to suppose, as 
some writers on American sport would have 
us believe, that mountain sheep or goats are 
only, or even generally, to be found on break- 
neck rocks or inaccessible precipices. The sheep 
which Stutfield shot near Wilcox Pass, and 
most of the goats he saw elsewhere, were on 
quite easy ground; and at the time of which 
we are writing there were far more goats in 
the forests than on the high peaks. While we 
were mountaineering at the head of the Middle 
Fork valley our men saw them at intervals in 
bands of five, ten, or even twenty crossing the 
river bottom or gambolling about on the shingle- 
flats in the mid-day sun. 

From the ford over the Saskatchewan to 
Glacier Lake is a ride of barely two miles, 
but there is much beautiful scenery on the way. 
A few hundred yards above its junction with 

the main river the stream issues from a canyon 

291 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

into a good-sized lake of a brilliant blue-green 
colour. A short distance higher up is a re- 
markable log - jam completely bridging the 
stream, so that men and animals can cross 
over with ease ; and it is a favourite passage 
of the wild goats. Even in Dr. Hector's time 
(1858) this spot seems to have been a usual 
crossing - place, for he mentions that "while 
halting here a bighorn sheep came down the 
mountain almost close to us, but, seeing us 
first, made off without our getting a shot. 
Nimrod, an Indian hunter who accompanied 
him, says this is the only place where these 
are to be seen so far in the mountains." There 
are certainly none in the vicinity nowadays. 

Above the log -jam the trail — which is a 
good and well-worn one, Glacier Lake being a 
favourite hunting-ground of the Stoney Indians 
— climbs over a high clay bluff, and from the 
top there bursts upon the traveller a most ex- 
quisite view of the lake, hemmed in by lofty 
mountains descending steeply to the water's 
edge, and the great ice-fall of the Lyell Glacier 
at its head. The waters of the lake are of a 
most beautiful turquoise blue ; and the stream, 
half-choked with the accumulation of logs, flows 

out from it, stealthily at first, then with augment- 

292 



GLACIER LAKE 

ing speed, until it plunges into the canyon, its 
banks fringed with pine-trees, and half-fallen 
dead or decayed trunks projecting at various 
angles over the water. Our camp was made 
on the hill-side some few hundred feet above the 
lake, commanding a fine prospect southwards 
up the valley we had just left, and over the 
Howse Pass. Our intention was to form a base- 
camp beyond the further end of the lake, from 
which we could explore the great ice-field of 
the Lyell Glacier ; but it would have been mad- 
ness to attempt to take horses through the burn- 
ing forest, so Fred Stephens said he would make 
us a raft on which we could ferry ourselves and 
part of the outfit to our destination, leaving the 
heavy baggage and the horses to look after 
themselves. 

It rained hard all next day, Sunday the 17th, 
and we passed the time about the tents in con- 
versation of a varied and instructive character. 
We were remarkably fortunate in our staff of 
men, most of whom had seen life in very 
different, but equally interesting, aspects in out- 
of-the-way parts of the earth. Robson had 
been through the Boer War with Strathcona's 
Horse, and had great things to tell of the 
prowess of General Buller, and the ignorance 

293 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

of those who knew not the peculiarities of 

horses and the various methods of "getting 

along " on the open veldt. He was a very 

good talker on a variety of other subjects, with 

a vein of quiet sarcasm, which was vented largely 

on the bedroom mattress and the degradation of 

people who used such things. Fred told of his 

trapping and hunting adventures ; and Dave 

Tewksbury's experiences in the lumber camps 

of the Far West were well worth listening to 

— of the life men led there, the dangers of the 

trade, and how single logs could be used for 

the purposes of navigation instead of the 

ordinary boat. Clarence was great on farming ; 

and Hans, though his limited knowledge of 

English prevented him from contributing many 

ideas to the general stock, was nevertheless a 

most genial companion and very popular with 

the whole outfit. 

On the Monday Fred and Dave set to work 

with a will on the raft, and the sound of their 

chopping could be heard all day through the 

woods. The rest of us spent the day in fishing 

and hunting. The fish obstinately refused to 

look at flies and other lures of the best London 

make, but Collie, using a pole and a piece of 

twine and a hook baited with a lump of bacon 

294 



GLACIER LAKE 

fat, landed a bull trout of about 6 lbs., with 
a most gigantic head and a mouth into which 
Fred could insert his capacious fist ; and we 
had a fish supper worthy of Greenwich. Stut- 
field, meanwhile, explored the continuation of 
the ridge of Survey Peak in search of goat. 
From the hill-side, about 1000 feet above the 
tents, he had a splendid view of Mount Forbes, 
which from this point is a marvellously slender 
and gracefully tapering pyramid. On the crest 
of the ridge he found himself within a few 
hundred yards of where he and Collie had been 
in 1898, on their ascent of Survey Peak ; and 
he looked down once more into the " happy 
valley," with its broad carpet of turf and ring 
of grim black precipices — a sequestered spot 
which should be an ideal feeding-ground for 
goat ; but not one was to be seen on either side 
of the ridge. Probably the fire had scared them 
all out of this part of the country. Continuing 
westwards along the ridge to the base of a great 
square-topped rock-tower that stands guard over 
the northern shore of the lake, he found himself 
right above the forest fire, and had an admirable 
opportunity of observing how these conflagra- 
tions commence their devastating careers. 

The rain of the previous day had some- 
295 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

what quenched its ardour, but with a renewal 
of the fine weather it was preparing for a fresh 
start. The still damp underbrush was smoulder- 
ing, the fire now dying away, now suddenly 
rising again. Occasionally great tongues and 
jets of flame would shoot skywards, as some 
clump of extra dry timber got ablaze ; and, 
with a mighty crackling, thousands of sparks 
and red-hot pieces of wood flew up, followed 
by immense slowly-rising pillars of smoke that 
expanded, umbrella-like, towards the top ; and, 
lit by the rays of the declining sun, gradually 
enveloped the surrounding peaks with a lurid 
haze. The fire had not, as yet, embraced any 
one large expanse of wood ; but it was slowly 
eating its way like a pestilence eastwards in 
small scattered patches which gradually united, 
and, if the fine weather continued, it was evi- 
dent that wide tracts of the neighbouring forests 
would be destroyed. 

An hour or two's work next morning sufliced 
to bring the raft to completion. It was a large 
and very fine specimen of naval architecture, 
made of good-sized logs lashed together with 
cinches (pack-ropes), and wooden cross-pieces and 
branches laid thereon to raise our goodly pile 

of baggage above the water. She was named 

296 




Rafting on Glacier Lake 



GLACIER LAKE 

" The Glacier Belle," but we had no liquor to 
waste on her christening. The baggage was 
brought down on the horses, and piled up and 
lashed securely on the raised portions of the 
raft, the edifice being fitly crowned by the 
colossal form of the mattress amid jeers from 
the packers. Punting-poles were fashioned out 
of pine saplings ; Fred sang out, " All aboard " ; 
and, with everybody pushing and shoving with 
poles, and chattering a strange medley of rail- 
way and nautical jargon, we committed ourselves 
to the deep. It was a brilliant morning ; the 
sun was blazing hot ; not a breath stirred, and 
the mountains and rocks and trees were reflected 
with startling clearness in the placid surface of 
the lake. We hugged the northern shore as 
closely as possible, but it shelved so rapidly into 
deep water that punting was no easy matter. 
Raft, freight, and passengers must have weighed 
two or three tons, so it may be imagined our 
speed was not that of an Atlantic greyhound. 
Dave, with his lumbering experience, was natur- 
ally the handy man of the party at this sort of 
job, and by a unanimous vote he was elected 
skipper. Robson also showed great ienergy 
with a tow-rope on the bank, whenever towing 

was practicable ; and thus, punting, pushing, 

297 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

paddling, and hauling for some hours, we 
gradually approached the further end of the 
lake. The scenery grew grander as we ad- 
vanced. Eastwards Mount Murchison came 
into view, a most imposing mass : in the 
opposite direction was the Lyell glacier, with 
its attendant peaks and magnificent ice-fall 
brilliantly mirrored in the turquoise, or rather 
peacock-blue, water. 

At the western end of the lake a wide 
swampy valley descends four or five miles from 
the Lyell ice-field. Probably in former days 
the lake, which is gradually being filled in 
by alluvial matter, occupied the greater part 
of this valley. As the ground was very wet 
and the river was overflowing its banks, we 
put up our tents on the hillside in the forest. 

Next day we packed our sleeping-bags and 
a good stock of provisions, and started to 
bivouac at the foot of the ice-fall for a journey 
of exploration over the Lyell glacier. The dis- 
tance was not great, but the logs and thickets 
of willow and alder evoked sad memories of the 
Bush valley ; and we got exceedingly wet in 
the muskegs along the river bank. However, 
we found a most comfortable place for a bivouac, 

and dawn saw us off for the upper snows along 

298 



THE LYELL ICE-FIELD 

the moraine running parallel to the ice-fall. 
Our route lay due north — at first it was very 
possibly that taken by Dr. Hector in 1858, 
when he climbed the small peak marked on the 
maps as Mount Sullivan — and we had a long 
and weary tramp before we reached the upper 
glacier, which, hke that of the Columbia ice- 
field, is a wide snow- covered plateau more like 
a big snow-field than a glacier. Behind us, 
across the valley where we had passed the night, 
and under a heavy canopy of cloud, was Forbes 
— from this point of view no slender elegant 
pyramid, as from the hill above Glacier Lake, 
but an unshapely monster, grand and terrible 
under the rapidly darkening sky, and of most 
forbidding aspect. Its snow-slopes seemed to 
rise an immense height from their base ; and we 
noticed that they were scarred with avalanche 
tracks, which told us how fortunate we had 
been in finding a firm crust upon the snow 
when we descended. 

Scrambling to the top of a rocky summit 
on the right, we looked down into a somewhat 
remarkable valley, almost perfectly straight, 
with steep and wooded sides topped by high 
mountains, and filled with innumerable lakes. 

The stream flowing down it discharges itself 

299 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

into the north fork of the Saskatchewan just 
under the chfFs of Mount Wilson, and at the 
head of the valley is Mount Lyell. We have 
named it the "Valley of Lakes." Descending 
again to the glacier we tramped on over the 
soft snow towards Mount Lyell, which rose 
straight in front of us — three low, rounded, 
white humps, the right-hand one falling in a 
rock -face towards the east. Starting, as it 
does, from an elevated snow-plateau, Lyell, for 
its height, is a singularly uninteresting and 
unimposing mountain. However, some of the 
party, Hans and WooUey in particular, were 
anxious to make the ascent, which would have 
been merely a tiring trudge up a moderate 
slope of snow ; but bad weather was coming up 
from the west, and all three peaks were already 
in mist, so the project was overruled. Hans 
was greatly shocked. 

*'What, not climb Mount Lyell?" he ex- 
claimed in horrified tones : " you will regret 
it very much ! " 

Hans cared nought for geography : his busi- 
ness was to chmb mountains, not to admire or 
map them ; and he would much rather go up a 
high peak in a fog than get the finest view in 

the world from a lower one. We, however, 

300 



Forbes from the Lyell Ice-Field 




HowsE Peak from the West (see p. iZj] 



THE LYELL ICE-FIELD 

who wished to study the surrounding country, 
thought that a small protuberance of snow near 
the centre of the glacier, and below the level of 
the now thickly gathering mists, would suit us 
much better; and the lazy ones of the party 
had their way. From the summit of our little 
peak we could see well the Bush peak and the 
valleys round it ; also other mountains north- 
wards of Bush peak, to the west of which we had 
been in 1900. Moreover, Collie observed how 
the ridge, of which Lyell is a part, bent away to 
the north-west and the Thompson pass. 

We went down by a shorter and more precipi- 
tous way, having some rather interesting ice-work 
in a maze of crevasses on the steep slope, and 
some splendid glissades below. On the longest 
of these glissades Collie knocked his pipe out of 
his mouth with his ice-axe, and, in attempting 
to save it, lost his balance and rolled head over 
heels to the bottom in a series of most un- 
dignified positions. Unluckily, his descent was 
so rapid that none of the rest of the party were 
quick enough to photograph him. 

After leaving the glacier we skirted the top 
of the woods on the hill-side facing the great 
ice-fall ; and for the first time had an oppor- 
tunity of gauging, from higher ground, its true 

301 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

dimensions and grandeur. Incomparably the 
finest we have seen in the Rockies, it is on a 
larger scale than anything of the kind in Swit- 
zerland. It is of immense width, with a band 
of cliffs, surmounted at their northern end by 
blue ice-pinnacles, dividing the upper from the 
lower glacier for the greater part of the distance. 
The meltings of the higher snows fall over these 
cliffs in a series of waterfalls, and the roar of 
the ice-avalanches was constant and deafening. 

Not wishing to fight our way again through 
those tiresome woods, we picked up our sleep- 
ing-bags and other chattels that we had left 
behind, and, crossing the snout of the glacier, 
climbed a high bluff overhanging a gorge 
through which the stream made its exit, and 
descended the right bank of the river. The 
route, though longer, was a good deal easier 
than the left bank, but it necessitated our 
wading through the river in order to get back 
to camp. 

We had now explored the last of the four 

great plateaux of ice and snow in this region of 

the Canadian Rockies — the others being the 

Columbia, the Freshfield, and the Waputehk 

glaciers ; and, as a result of a consultation that 

302 



GLACIER LAKE 

evening, it was decided that, as there appeared 
to be no more mountaineering of an interesting 
nature to be done in the neighbourhood, we 
should return with all speed to Laggan, and 
wind up the season with some climbing in the 
Valley of the Ten Peaks, which none of us, 
except Weed, had visited. We should have 
much liked to revisit our old haunts to the north 
on Wilcox Pass, but we had not nearly enough 
time ; so early next morning Fred and Clarence 
started on foot to collect the horses at the last 
camp, while the rest of us loaded the " Glacier 
Belle " with the baggage. The logs of which 
that noble vessel was constructed had become 
thoroughly sodden with their three days' im- 
mersion, and she was an inch or two lower 
in the water than when we started. However, 
by heightening the platform in the centre we 
managed to keep our things fairly dry. A 
stiff breeze was blowing, luckily in the right 
direction, so we set up a canvas pack-cover on 
two poles as a sail; and, with Dave at the 
helm, and youth, personified by Hans, at the 
prow, we were slowly wafted into the port 
whence we had started. The fire was still 
burning as we passed ; and the once thickly 

303 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

wooded hillside, now blackened and bereft of 
its beautiful primeval forest — an unsightly waste 
of charred tree-stumps, shrivelled-up bushes, and 
calcined earth — presented a most melancholy 
spectacle. It will be a long while before these 
ravages can be repaired; and the scenery of 
this beautiful lake, which has few rivals in the 
Rockies, is, we fear, sadly marred for many a 
year to come. 

Luckily for us, the horses had not strayed 
far; and Fred and Clarence had them all 
ready by the lake-side when we disembarked. 
The men aU worked with a will; the ponies 
were quickly packed ; and evening saw us en- 
camped once more, and for the last time, at 
Bear Creek. From here, dispensing with the 
customary day's halt, we pushed on to the 
lower Waterfowl Lake. The weather was 
showery, but in the evening both Pyramid and 
Howse Peak unveiled their heads for once; 
and Dave broke forth into renewed expressions 
of rapture at the grandeur of the scene. 
Next morning, August the 24th, leaving the 
packers to follow with the outfit, we rode ahead 
for two hours along the trail ; tethered 
the horses, and ascended a rock peak on the 

304 




HowsE Peak and Waterfowl Lake 



THE LYELL ICE-FIELD 

eastern side of the valley in order to investi- 
gate the country lying between the Siffleur 
and Bear Creek. Climbing up a steep snow 
couloir we reached the arete, whence easy 
rocks and shale took us on to the summit. 
Our elevation was greater than we had expected, 
being over 10,000 feet above sea-level ; and 
the peak proved an admirable view - point. 
The scenery, looking east, was singularly un- 
lovely, barren hills covered with interminable 
slopes of drab earth and shale alternating with 
small glaciers and patches of snow. However, 
we learned all we wanted to know about the 
lie of the land ; and a portion of the country 
lying eastwards of Mount Murchison we saw for 
the first time. There appeared to be only two 
valleys of any magnitude, one being that of the 
Dolomite stream, up which Thompson, Noyes, 
and Weed had travelled in 1898. 

From this summit, which we named after 
Mr. Noyes, we recognised the splendid isola- 
tion of JNIurchison, and its series of rugged 
peaks stood up magnificently against the white 
clouds. Almost due north, and to the right 
of the most easterly point of Murchison, could 
be seen the highest of the mountains in the 

group lying between the Cataract River and 

305 u 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the Saskatchewan. This mountain overlooks 
the historic Kootenay Plain, and Collie named 
it " Cline Peak," after the trader who in by- 
gone days, as described in Hector's " Jomnals," ^ 
journeyed yearly through that part of the 
country to and from Jasper House. 

^ See page 82. 



306 



CHAPTER XVII 



MORAINE LAKE AND THE TEN PEAKS 

The following day we crossed the Bow Pass 
and camped on the shore of the Upper Bow 
Lake. The horses, with their noses set home- 
wards, and tormented by clouds of bull-dogs, 
became quite skittish and rattled along at a 
grand rate. These flies persecuted us all the 
way back to Laggan, their numbers being ex- 
traordinary. Beyond the lake we encountered 
a new insect plague in the shape of swarms 
of wasps — hornets, or "yellow-jackets," the 
men called them — which afforded an additional 
stimulus to violent exertion on the part of 
the cayooses. At intervals throughout the day 
one or another of the latter would suddenly 
fling his heels in the air, or gallop madly through 
the woods for no apparent cause, shedding his 
pack piecemeal as he went ; when we at once 
knew that he had disturbed a colony of " yellow- 
jackets." The packers had a busy time of it. In 
particular, the mattress or " bedroom suite," as 
Robson preferred to call it, seemed to spend half 

307 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

its time on the ground, or else in being re- 
adjusted on the pony's back : and this, somewhat 
unreasonably as we thought, provoked much bad 
feeling and worse language among the men, who 
protested that nobody could possibly make a 
pack of it that would stay on a cayoose's back 
for any length of time. INIuch heated argu- 
ment ensued, and winged words were flying 
round as thickly as the wasps and the bull-dogs. 
Finally, so bitter and cruel became the taunts 
levelled at the mattress that the soul of the 
outfit's Poet Laureate was stirred to its depths ; 
and, taking up his pen on behalf of this most 
useful piece of furniture, he composed and 
recited (at his own request) round the camp 
fire that evening the following ode : — 

TO MY MATTRESS 

The plague of the packer, the tenderfoot's joy. 

Though mosquitoes be spiteful and bull-dogs annoy ; 

My bed after labour, my sofa in leisure, 

They call thee a nuisance — / deem thee a treasure ! 

They growl and they gird at thy corpulent form — 

I deny that its bulk is exceeding the norm ; 

A trifle unwieldy, I grant you, and weighty, 

A blending of otium with much dignitate, 

'Tis something akin to an Eastern divan — 

Just the right sort of thing for an ease-loving man ! 

See ! the cayoose in fury bounds off with a snort, 
For his pack, mountain-high, has a bad list to port, 

308 



ODE TO THE MATTRESS 



And he's quite unaccustomed to loads of this sort : 
He's kicking and swishing the flies with his tail, 
And — Lordy ! there's mattress and all on the trail ! 

In a lively refrain 

Of language profane. 
And a chorus of swear-words, the packers complain ; 
Maledictions upon thee descend like the rain : 
But a fig for the horrors invoked on thy head, 
The ructions of Robson, the gibing of Fred ; 
These slight misadventures that Dave gets so cross over 
Shouldn't ruffle the calm of our backwoods philosopher ! 

Dost thoii ever flinch 

When the pitiless cinch 
Screws up thy fat sides to the very last inch ? 
And tighter than woman was ever tight-laced 
Is the grip of the diamond hitch on thy waist. 
Thy cuticle's sadly abraded and worn ; 
With the spears of the pine-wood thy body is torn ; 
Yet, mangled and battered and twisted awry. 
Still bulky^ disdainful, inert dost thou lie ! 

When, at nightfall, the outfit lies under the stars, 
'Mid the perfume of pine-trees and five-cent cigars- — 
A draggle-tailed crew, all unshaven and hairy, 
Peak-climbers, and far-faring folk of the prairie — 
When the camp-fire is dying, and fitful its rays 
As a log on a sudden leaps into a blaze ; 

When the mists on the hill 

Their moisture distil. 
Thy armour is proof against dampness and chill : 
That my bones do not ache, that my joints can work free, 
My blessing and thanks, stout old Mattress, to thee ! 
Thy panoply shields me from stumps and from stones 
When the earth's like a brick, and in dolorous tones 
My comrades inform me they're racked to the bones ; 
That A has the cramp, B a cold in his nose — 
It's exceedingly odd, but the tale of their woes 
Doesn't seem to disturb in the least my repose ! 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 



Let the flies on my top-knot be playing ping-pong. 
While mosquitoes in chorus oblige with a song ; 
Let the wind in the spruces be wailing and soughing, 
As their stems to its onset are gracefully bowing : 

The tempest may vent 

Its rage on our tent, 
And the darkening heavens with lightnings be rent ; 
The thunder may rattle, the hurricane roar — 
While Woolley keeps dodging the draught on the floor 
Because Weed has forgotten to fasten the door. 
And the Doctor's expounding his chemical lore — 
Still at peace on thy broad ample bosom I snore. 

L'Envoi. 

Farewell — for we have reached our journey's ending — 
Poor fluttering rags, poor wisps of mouldering hay ! 

Our campaign's o'er ; my Mattress past all mending, 
The first, the only, victim of the fray. 

Pile on the logs ; heap high the funeral pyre : 

Who's got a match myself shall light the fire. 

Our trifling troubles were nearing their end ; 
and — all too soon — mattress, kicking cayooses, 
biting bull-dogs, mosquitoes, and wasps would 
be no more than a memory, and the comforts 
and the dull routine of civilised existence would 
be ours once again. 

On the way home no less than three outfits 

were met on their way north, which we took to 

be a sign of the growing popularity of the 

Canadian Rockies. Owing to the trampling 

it had received, the trail through the muskegs 

310 



Laggan Group of Mountains from the Bow Valley 




HUNGABEE, VlCTORL\, AND LeFROV, FROM NePTUAK 



MORAINE LAKE 

was in a shocking state, and the mud-holes 
were worse than ever. As the traffic up the 
valley grows, it will probably be found ab- 
solutely necessary to carry the trail, as previously 
suggested, along the hillside above the swamps. 
Laggan was reached at noon on Wednesday the 
27th ; and the tents had hardly been put up 
when a storm of hail and sleet set in, which was 
the precursor of ten days' bad weather. 

Next morning we started along the carriage 
road leading to the Lake Louise chalet, en route 
for Moraine Lake and the valley of the Ten 
Peaks, a journey of about fifteen miles. From 
the chalet we found an excellent trail in course 
of construction by the Canadian Pacific Railway, 
and only the last two miles remained to be 
completed. The trail follows the route to 
Saddle Mountain at first ; then, after crossing 
the stream which fiows down from the beautiful 
Paradise Valley, described at length in Mr. 
Wilcox's book, it winds along a shoulder of 
Mount Temple at timber-line. Rounding a 
corner of the hill, we had a sudden and most 
striking view of Moraine Lake and the magnifi- 
cent range of the Ten Peaks, with their tre- 
mendous precipices, rising beyond. Presently we 
came to the end of the trail, where a gang of 

311 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

men were hard at work upon it ; and, dropping 
down through the woods into the valley, reached 
the lake. The weather continued cold and dis- 
agreeable, so we camped in the most sheltered 
spot we could find in the adjoining forest. 

Moraine Lake, so named by Mr. Wilcox 
in 1899, from a curious isolated pile of debris 
at its eastern end, is not the least striking of 
the many beautiful mountain tarns of the 
Canadian Rockies. Not even Lake Louise 
can boast of so noble a galaxy of guardian 
mountains as is furnished by the range of the 
Ten Peaks and the craggy and imposing pile 
of Mount Temple. On the other hand, the 
lake itself, its wooded shores, and immediate 
surroundings, are distinctly inferior in pictur- 
esqueness of form and composition both to Louise 
and Glacier Lake, though the turquoise blue 
of the water, in spite of the dull weather and 
lowering skies, struck us as being more than 
ordinarily brilliant. The lake abounds with 
rainbow trout, but we could not induce them 
to rise at the fly. 

On Saturday the 30th we moved the outfit 
some distance up the valley beyond the further 
end of the lake, hoping to find a more con- 
venient base for mountaineering in the event 

312 



THE TEN PEAKS 

of the weather improving. On the verge of 
the forest, however, we were overtaken by a 
violent storm of wind and snow, and the order 
was given to camp at once. The site was a 
magnificent one, right opposite the centre of 
the Ten Peaks, whose precipices, picked out 
with Uttle snow patches and seamed with bands 
of curiously parti- coloured rock, rose almost 
vertically 3000 feet above the glacier. The 
latter is of a dirty brown colour, the ice being 
covered with piles of moraine and debris, which 
suggested the alternative name of Desolation 
Valley. A novel feature in the landscape was 
the number of mountain larches among the 
surrounding trees, which formed quite an agree- 
able change after the interminable pines and 
spruces of Bear Creek and the Saskatchewan 
valley. The woods, moreover, were fairly open, 
as is usually the case where the larch flourishes. 
It is a hardy tree, being found mostly in the 
neighbourhood of timber-line ; yet, in spite of 
its penchant for the rigours of an Alpine climate, 
we never saw it growing north of the railway. 

Showers of light hail and sleet, the drippings 
from the clouds that hung persistently round 
the higher mountain tops, fell continuously for 
the next two days ; and climbing was not to 

313 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

be thought of. Taking advantage of a sHght 
break in the bad weather, Weed conducted us 
one afternoon to the summit of a pass leading 
over into Prospectors' Valley, which he had 
traversed the previous year with Mr. C. Thomp- 
son and Hans on an unsuccessful attempt to 
reach the top of Mount Hungabee. We had 
a fine view of that majestic peak on the 
way up, and discussed projects of an assault 
on its formidable precipices as soon as the 
weather cleared. On the moraine of the glacier 
we found a number of most curious and appar- 
ently fossil remains in the Cambrian quartzites.^ 
The pass, which crosses the range forming the 
continental watershed at a height of about 
8000 feet, lies between Neptuak, or Number 
Nine — the Ten Peaks are so called after the 
first ten numerals of the Indian language — and 
Hungabee (" The Chieftain ") which, though 
belonging to an entirely separate group of 
mountains, appears to have been reckoned as 
one of the ten by Mr. S. E. S. Allen who 
named them. Of the other nine peaks the 
highest and most striking is Number Eight, 
about 10,900 feet, which also bears the name 

1 An account of these remarkable rock specimens, by Professor 
Bonney, F.R.S., appears in the Geographical Journal for May, 1903, 
pp. 498, 500. 



ASCENT OF NEPTUAK 

of Deltaform, from its triangular shape. The 
ascent of both Hungabee and Deltaform must 
be made from the side of Prospectors' Valley. 

Thursday, September 2nd, was a fine day, 
so we got up early to do a climb of some 
description. Deltaform and Hungabee were 
voted out of the question owing to the quan- 
tities of new snow ; and our choice eventually 
fell on Neptuak, the northernmost summit of 
the range, which, viewed from the summit of 
the pass, seemed to offer the prospect of a good 
climb. Woolley remarks in his paper that the 
mountain, as seen from the pass, may be roughly 
compared to the Eiger from the Little Schei- 
deck. Turning to our left, we traversed a small 
but steep snow-slope and got on to the arete. 
For some distance the going was easy enough, 
but presently we found our way barred by some 
formidable-looking walls and towers of rock. 
On our left we looked down the tremendous 
sheer precipice facing Desolation Valley : below 
on the right were shale-slopes and couloirs, 
now sheeted with ice, down which stones and 
icicles were falling with unpleasant frequency. 
We therefore decided to stick to the arete; 
and the result was one of the best climbs of 
the trip. It was good hard scrambling nearly 

315 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the whole way, the rocks being almost vertical 
in places and the hand-holds not over-abundant ; 
and, being a party of five on one rope, we 
made but slow progress. " During the ascent " 
of these rocks, to quote once more from 
Woolley's paper, " we made a closer acquaintance 
with the variegated strata seen in the cliffs from 
below. First we encountered a layer of light- 
coloured limestone very much shattered ; then 
came a bed of much firmer dark brown rock, 
then more pale loose limestone, and near the 
top almost black limestone with light veins." 
Towards the summit the ine\dtable cornice was 
encountered, and, traversing some distance be- 
low it, we climbed a narrow ridge of rocks over- 
hung with snow and found ourselves on the 
highest point at 3 p.:m. Our height appeared to 
be 10,500 feet. 

The view was an entirely new one to all of us, 
except Weed and Hans, the foreground being 
filled in with a set of mountains whose heads 
were only dimly discernible from the peaks 
about the head- waters of the Saskatchewan. 
Northwards the terraced cliffs of Hungabee 
chiefly attracted our gaze, with the massive 
forms of Victoria and Lefroy immediately 

to the right : across Prospectors' Valley rose 

316 



ASCENT OF NEPTUAK 

Mount Vaux and the three pinnacles of Good- 
sir, the most imposing, and perhaps the loftiest, 
peak in this region of the Rockies, with Sir 
Donald and the Selkirks beyond, and a sea of 
mountains rolling, wave upon wave, further to 
the west. Quite close to us southwards, across 
a dip in the ridge, the grim precipices of the 
triangular Deltaform towered, tier upon tier, 
some hundreds of feet above our heads ; and 
from this point of view they did not look at 
all inviting. After half-an-hour spent in taking 
our bearings and photographing we began the 
descent, and it was late in the afternoon before 
we got off the rocks. We had a couple 
of merry glissades down the snow, and then 
tramped homewards, reaching the tents soon 
after sundown. 

Neptuak proved our last climb. All Wed- 
nesday and Thursday it blew and sleeted and 
snowed, and the hillsides once more donned 
their winter mantles ; so, having only two more 
days to spend in the mountains, on the Friday 
we struck camp and returned to Laggan. On 
the way down we stopped a few hours at the 
chalet, and enjoyed our first civilised dinner 
beneath Miss Mollison's hospitable roof. This 
over, with sorrow we bade farewell to Hans, 

317 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

who, in addition to being a first-rate guide, was 
an excellent fellow — very keen and good-tem- 
pered, and willing to do all sorts of things, from 
hard work on the mountain- side to carrying 
gigantic logs on his back for the camp-fire, or 
mending boots. In short, he was everything 
that the British climber is wont to write (with 
more or less truth) in his guide s " Fiihrer Buch" 
at the close of his season in the Alps — and more 
besides. 

An occasion of still greater regret was our 
parting, on the cars that evening towards mid- 
night, with Fred, who accompanied us aboard 
"Number 2 " on the way to his home at Lacombe. 
Much of the success, as well as the pleasure and 
good-fellowship, of our expeditions in 1900 and 
1902 had been due to his unfailing tact, good 
temper, and management : and, when we said 
good-bye to him and stepped out on to the plat- 
form at Banff, we felt we were at the same time 
bidding farewell to the Canadian Rockies. 

We were well content with the results of 
this our last journey among the mountains, 
which, at any rate as regards physical comfort, 
had been much the most agreeable of the four. 
From the geographical point of view a number 
of questions relating to the peaks, passes, and 

318 



A RETROSPECTIVE VIEW 

glaciers had been satisfactorily solved. Several 
high mountains — chief among them being Mounts 
Forbes, Murchison, Freshfield, and Howse Peak 
— had been ascended for the first time, and their 
heights barometrically determined. We had 
discovered a pass across the main range between 
the Freshfield and the Lyell groups ; explored 
the Lyell Glacier, and found out how the 
watershed ran from the Freshfield group to 
the peaks about the Columbia ice-field ; and 
gained a much more detailed topographical 
knowledge of various outlying portions of the 
mountains — for instance, the portion south of the 
Freshfield group, that east of the peaks of Mur- 
chison, and that north-east of Mount Wilson. 

Our climbs, moreover, and the continued 
fine weather with which we had been favoured, 
had enabled us better to appreciate the charm 
of the scenery in the Rockies, and also, at the 
same time, to gauge more correctly their merits 
and possibilities as a field for mountaineering. 
Regarded as a whole, and from the severely 
"greased pole" point of view that Mr. Ruskin 
used to deplore, it may be said at once that 
they can hardly, in this respect, become serious 
competitors with the Alps. Mount Forbes 
and a few other high peaks will always afford 

319 



CLBIBS AXD EXPLORATION 



magnificent climbs, and excellent rock scram- 
bling can be enjoyed on a host of minor smnmits ; 
but the majority of the loftier mountains will 
not test the skill of the modern Alpine gymnast 
very severely. The chmber's chief obstacles 
at present are their distance from his base 
and the impenetrable character of the forests 
through which he has to fight his way. In 
future days, when trails are cut to the foot 
of the peaks, when the easiest routes to the 
summits are discovered, and the contempt 
bred of famiharity supervenes, it is possible 
that a good many of them may be lightly 
esteemed by up-to-date mountaineers. People 
with a taste for capturing virgm peaks will be 
able, by going a Httle further afield than their 
predecessors, to gratify their ambition in that 
du^ection for many years to come. They can 
climb half-a-dozen or so a week, if they have 
the fancy ; but we question whether the results 
will repay the trouble expended. 

Nor, perhaps, from an aesthetic standpoint, 
can it be maintained that the Alps of Canada 
possess quite the grandeur or the stateliness 
of their European compeers. It is doubtful, 
for instance, if there are any mountain land- 
scapes in the Rockies that vie in sublimity with 

the view of the Jungfrau from Interlachen, 

320 



THE CANADIAN ROCKIES 



the Italian sides of Mont Blanc, or Monte 
Rosa, or the Matterhorn. On the other hand, 
they have a very remarkable individuality and 
character, in addition to special beauties of 
their own which Switzerland cannot rival. The 
picturesque landscapes in the valleys ; the mag- 
nificence of the vast forests, with their inex- 
tricable tangle of luxuriant undergrowth, and 
the wreck and ruin of the fallen tree-trunks ; 
the size, number, and exquisite colouring of 
the mountain lakes — in these things the New 
Switzerland stands pre-eminent. In the Alps 
we can recall only one lake of any size sur- 
rounded by high glacier-clad mountains, namely, 
the (Eschinen See ; in the Rockies they may 
be counted by the score — gems of purest tur- 
quoise blue, in matchless settings of crag and 
forest scenery, glacier and snow, storm-riven 
peak, and gloomy mysterious canyon. Last, but 
by no means least, in the free wild life of the 
backwoods can be found absolute freedom from 
all taint of the vulgar or the commonplace; 
and the sense of mystery and of awe at the 
unknown — things which are gone for ever from 
the high mountain ranges of Europe — yet linger 
around the crests of the Northern Rockies. 

Gradually, year by year, these things are 
321 X 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

getting appreciated by the outside world. 
Canada, as all the world knows, is now entering 
on a new era of commercial, agricultural, and 
industrial development. Vast tracts of country 
are being opened up in the great North- West ; 
settlers are pouring in from the States and 
elsewhere, and the whole country is progress- 
ing in wealth and material prosperity by leaps 
and bounds. Coincidently with this advance 
in riches there is growing in the West a taste 
for natural beauties, an appreciation, hitherto 
dormant, of the fair things of the earth, which 
in its turn is proving a new source of wealth. 
People have ceased to scoff at the mountains 
along the Divide as barren profitless things ; 
and the Canadian Pacific Railway authorities, 
at any rate, with their accustomed shrewdness, 
have learned that even glaciers, if utilised with 
skill, may have a commercial value. A grow- 
ing horde of tourists all along the railway is 
the result ; while — most happily for those who 
shun the society of their fellow wayfarers, and 
long for the silent solitude of the forest, the 
grandeur and the keen air of the great peaks — 
a tent and an outfit always afford an easy 
means of escape from that over- civilisation 
which, as some of us think, is already sufficiently 

burdensome in our home surroundings. 

322 



CHAPTER XVIIl 



A NOTE ON SPORT AND GAME IN THE CANADIAN 
ROCKIES 

In the course of our expeditions among the 
mountains the shooting and hunting were always 
kept quite subordinate to the cHmbing, sur- 
veying, and exploration work ; and it may be 
imagined that a large outfit of men and horses, 
with its accompaniment of bells tinkling and 
people talking and shouting, is not conducive 
to the tranquillity which is essential for the 
finding of game. At the same time we saw 
enough in the course of our travels to give 
us a pretty fair idea of the country's capacities 
as a field for sport — in that narrower sense of 
the word which limits its meaning to the pur- 
suit and slaying of birds and beasts; and a 
few remarks, by way of conclusion, on this 
subject may not be out of place. 

Although it is impossible to recommend 
the Canadian Rockies as a really first-rate 
hunting-ground — the "game hog," as the Ame- 
ricans call the man avid of indiscriminate 

323 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

slaughter, and the sportsman who wishes to 
shoot with a minimum expenditure of time 
and labour, had better betake themselves else- 
where—enough sport may be obtained to add 
plenty of zest to a camping trip among the 
mountains. The only big game which the 
traveller has a reasonable chance of securing 
are Rocky Mountain sheep, or bighorn, wild 
goats, and bears. We saw a good many tracks 
of deer, and occasionally those of moose, elk 
(or wapiti), and cariboo, but these latter are 
so seldom met with that they are hardly worth 
taking into consideration. 

Bighorn, in the early part of the last cen- 
tury, must have been plentiful all over these 
mountains. We may infer this from the works 
of David Thompson and other travellers, and 
also from the old game trails still visible along 
the hillsides. Now, however, in common with 
other big game throughout the world, they 
are rapidly decreasing in numbers ; and, unless 
effectual measures are taken to preserve them, 
the fate of the buffalo must eventually be 
theirs. Even forty or fifty years ago the herds 
had been sadly thinned, and part of Captain 
Palhser's anxiety for the safety of Dr. Hector 
and his party was due to the fear that they 

324 



SPORT AND GAME 

might be starved owing to the difficulty of 
finding game for food. The scarcity of wild 
animals in those days was attributed to a suc- 
cession of exceptionally severe winters, during 
which large numbers of sheep and goats had 
perished, to great fires through the woods and 
mountains on the eastern side of the main 
range, and also to a mysterious disease, appa- 
rently a kind of mange or scab, which attacked 
the bighorn. Still, from the accounts of Dr. 
Hector and other explorers in the middle of 
the century, it is evident that game was much 
more abundant then than now. The traveller 
by the Kootenay Plains in these days is not 
hkely to be startled, like Hector, by the 
apparition of a hundred rams rushing by him 
so close as to enable him to throw stones at 
them ; although Professor Coleman, on his 
journey^ up the Cataract River to the head- 
waters of the Brazeau in 1902, saw several 
bighorn in the course of the expedition. They 
appear to frequent this part of the country 
more than any other on the eastern side of 
the chain. Veyto and Stutfield saw a good 
many tracks in the upper valley of the Brazeau ; 
and the animals which the latter so rudely 

1 Geographical Journal, M-dj, 1903. 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

disturbed on the slopes of Wild Sheep Hills 
had evidently come there from the east. 

The sheep in the mountains at the head of 
the north fork of the Saskatchewan were very 
seldom molested till quite recent years, as the 
Stone}^ Indians have a legend that certain mem- 
bers of their tribe were spirited away in this 
valley by some supernatural agency, and they 
are consequently afraid to go up it. Bighorn are 
more plentiful in the Lillooet and other districts 
of British Columbia, but the heads are not nearly 
so fine as those of the Rockies. 

The Rocky Mountain goat is much com- 
moner and more widely distributed than the 
bighorn, and anybody who goes up country 
after the former should be tolerably certain of 
getting one or two. They are often to be seen 
in the mountains on either side of the railway, 
where sheep seldom come nowadays, except in 
the depth of winter. They are pretty numerous 
in the Selkirks, which are too wet to be good 
ground for sheep ; and we saw a fair number in 
the mountains at the head of the Bush Valley. 
The wild goat is no mean quarry, but he is a 
stupid beast, and, so long as the hunter keeps 
above him, he is by no means difficult to stalk. 

As a matter of fact, there is little of the 
326 



SPORT AND GAME 

romantic glamour which hangs round chamois- 
hunting attaching to the chase of either Rocky 
Mountain sheep or goat. In some books deal- 
ing with sport in the American Rockies one 
reads of perilous adventures and hair-breadth 
escapes of bighorn hunters, who, like the con- 
ventional gemsjdger of the Alps, appear some- 
times to have been very desperate characters 
and to have faced death in a variety of terrible 
shapes. In Canada and British Columbia, on 
the other hand, the pursuit of the bighorn is 
seldom attended with danger, as, although 
capable of surprising feats of agility on difficult 
rocks when hard pressed, they are usually to be 
found on quite easy ground, such as the grassy 
knolls and benches of rock above timber-line. 
Wild sheep have been killed, ere now, by men 
on horseback ; and on our last return journey 
along the Bow trail we met an American gentle- 
man and his daughter who were setting forth 
with the avowed intention of shooting bighorn 
from the saddle. Their efforts, however, we 
have since heard, were not crowned with 
success. 

The wild goats of the Rockies have a distinct 
penchant for the summits of beethng crags and 
ledges running along dizzy precipices ; but they 

327 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

too, like the bighorn, are more often to be found 
in easy country about timber-level. Comical, 
antediluvian -looking creatures are these old 
biUies, with a venerable air of profound wisdom, 
which, however, greatly belies their true char- 
acter. Like the chamois in certain parts of the 
Alps they sometimes frequent the lower woods, 
and we often saw their wool on the bushes by 
the banks of rivers and along the bottoms of the 
larger valleys. When alarmed they make off at 
a sort of heavy lumbering canter and betake 
themselves to the rocks, which they negotiate 
with perfect ease, but always with great caution. 
When a goat arrives at a difficult place he stops 
and surveys the ground carefully, slowly moving 
his head from side to side, until he has satisfied 
himself of the best route to take. Though a 
wondrously skilful climber, he has none of the 
careless dash and elan of the chamois, who seems 
to throw himself at the rocks without reflection, 
trusting, as it would appear, to chance and his 
own marvellous agility to carry him through. 

Bears, black, brown, and grizzly, abound 
more or less all over the Rockies. Traces of 
them are often to be seen where they have been 
grubbing in the moss at the roots of large trees ; 

and their footprints may be followed across the 

328 



SPORT AND GAME 

sandy bars and broad shingly flats at the head of 
the larger valleys, or on the muddy banks of the 
smaller mountain tarns. Hunting them, how- 
ever, is an extremely difficult matter ; and very 
few bears are killed by visitors to the country. 
Probably not one is shot by hunters for twenty 
that are caught in traps. The woods are so 
vast, and the undergrowth so dense, that the 
sportsman, unless uncommonly lucky, must be 
prepared to expend much time and trouble 
before he meets with success. Indians are pro- 
bably the best hunters for this sort of work. 
The impenetrable thickets of the Blaeberry 
Creek are a favourite habitat of bears, as are also 
the immense forests on the slopes of the Selkirks 
and along the west side of the main Rocky 
Mountain chain, but the traveller may journey 
for months together without Bruin ever putting 
in an appearance. Occasionally he may emerge 
into the open to feed on the berries which grow 
thickly on the sunny hill-sides, but as a rule he 
prefers to remain concealed in the mysterious 
recesses of the forests. In the winter he " dens 
up" in some dark hole under a rock, sheltered 
from the piercing wind by the snow-laden 
bushes. 

Of the smaller varieties of game the com- 
329 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

monest are the willow grouse, or " fool-hen," the 
blue grouse, and the ptarmigan. These birds 
are exceedingly useful for the purpose of replen- 
ishing the larder, but shooting them can hardly 
be called sport. Ducks of various kinds, teal, 
and widgeon are not uncommon, and in the 
Bush Valley we saw flocks of wild geese and a 
few swans ; but far better shooting of this de- 
scription can be obtained in the lower lakes of 
British Columbia and on the prairies east of the 
Rockies, where wildfowl of every sort exist in 
myriads. 

Of the fishing in the Rockies it is difficult to 
convey an accurate impression. Trout of vari- 
ous kinds abound in many of the lakes and 
streams ; but they appear to be singularly capri- 
cious, and the fisherman cannot reckon with any 
certainty on getting good sport. On some days 
and in certain seasons they will rise greedily at 
the fly : on others they obstinately refuse to be 
tempted by any artificial lure. 1902 was dis- 
tinctly an unfavourable season, and we fished 
rivers and lakes, which in previous years had 
yielded excellent sport, with unvarying ill-suc- 
cess. Very large bull-trout, up to 30 lb. or 
more, are to be caught in Lake Minnewanka, 
near Banff, in the upper and lower Bow lakes, 

330 



'The Goat Hangs High ' 204) 




Ptarmigan 



SPORT AND GAME 

and other mountain tarns — Collie, as already 
mentioned, got one in the stream flowing out of 
Glacier Lake — but they will not take a fly. On 
calm days they may sometimes be seen in the 
Bow lakes basking in shallow water near the 
shore — ugly, unattractive monsters, with big 
heads and most capacious mouths. More satis- 
factory, from the fly-fisher's point of view, are 
the smaller rainbow trout, which are very sport- 
ing fish and excellent eating; and the visitor, 
with fair luck and the aid of local information, 
should have no difficulty in discovering lakes 
and streams that will afford him plenty of 
amusement. 

The destruction, and consequent diminution, 
of large game in the Canadian Rocky Moun- 
tains has for some years past engaged the 
attention of the Government authorities in the 
North- West Territories. Following the suc- 
cessful example of the United States in their 
game preserve of the Yellowstone Park, they 
have prohibited sheep and goat hunting in a 
large tract of country extending northwards of 
Banff* and Laggan as far as the main valley of 
the Saskatchewan. In other words, they have 
greatly widened the boundaries of the existing 
National Park at Banff*, where a small herd of 

331 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

buffalo, a few elk, moose, goat, and deer are 
confined ; and it is hoped that in course of time 
the numbers of wild animals may be consider- 
ably increased. The analogous system of mak- 
ing ^m'^^r^^, or sanctuaries for chamois, in large 
districts has worked well in the Swiss cantons ; 
but the conditions prevailing in the Canadian 
Rockies are very different from those both in 
the Alps and the Yellowstone Park, and the 
system of enclosing large areas of wild country, 
which cannot possibly be effectively policed, 
seems to be of questionable expediency. It 
must be remembered that a great part of the 
ground now reserved is many days' journey 
from civilisation — a good deal of it until quite 
recent years has never been mapped or explored 
— and it is difficult to see how the killing of 
game there by Indians and professional hunters 
is to be prevented. Probably this will go on 
pretty much as before, while visitors and tourists, 
who until lately were able to enjoy short 
hunting trips up the Bow or Pipestone valleys — 
trips, by the way, which seldom resulted in 
any serious destruction of game ! — will now be 
unable to do so without infringing the regula- 
tions. That is to say, law-respecting strangers 
will be debarred from a certain amount of more 

332 



SPORT AND GAME 

or less harmless enjoyment, while the protection 
to the game \\dll be practically nil. It would 
have been better, perhaps, if the authorities had 
acted more on the principle of festina lente, and, 
contenting themselves with a less ambitious 
project at first, had gradually extended the 
boundaries of the enclosed ground year by 
year. 

Closely connected with the problem of game 
preservation in the Rockies is that of the 
Indians. One thing is certain : if the Stoneys 
are allowed to hunt indefinitely, as at present, 
the large game, already sufficiently scarce, will 
be exterminated in all but the most remote 
districts. It is a frequent subject of complaint 
that Indians are allowed greater facilities for 
hunting than white men. In theory the Red- 
skin is only allowed to leave his reservation 
for the pursuit of game during the Fall ; but, as 
a matter of fact, he can nearly always obtain 
a permit at any season of the year — nominally 
for the purpose of business, visiting a relation, 
or on some similar pretext, when the old primi- 
tive instincts assert themselves and he goes off 
hunting. 

In the autumn the Stoneys sally forth with 
their squaws and papooses, their teepees and 

333 



CLIMBS AND EXPLOHATION 

other household gods, and scour the woods and 
hill-sides in search of game. They hunt in 
bands, and directly a herd of sheep or goats 
is sighted they set to work to surround it, 
and if they can wipe out the whole herd, young 
and old, male and female, they do not hesitate 
to do so. Needless to say, the Red Man is not 
deterred by sportsmanlike or prudential con- 
siderations, and the idea of leaving a sufficient 
breeding-stock for future seasons does not enter 
his head. Skins and heads and horns are so 
valuable nowadays that the pecuniary induce- 
ments to kill game of all sorts are very great, 
quite apart from the love of the chase which is 
inbred in every Indian. The Stoneys form 
probably the finest type of Redskins extant ; 
and, as Mr. Wilcox, an admirer of the tribe, 
says, they are incomparable hunters, and their 
boast is that " No game can Hve where we 
hunt." 

The question of what is to be done with these 
untamed, and apparently untamable, children 
of Nature ; how " the provisional races," as the 
" Professor at the Breakfast Table " calls them — 
" the red crayon sketches of humanity laid on 
the canvas before the colours for the real 
humanity are ready " — ought to be treated, is 

334 



SPORT AND GAME 

a difficult one. The abuses, and in some cases 
the brutahties, of the American system are well 
known ; and the principle that " the only good 
Indian is a dead Indian " has doubtless found 
too ready acceptance in the States. On the 
other hand, it would seem that in Canada the 
Redskin is allowed too free a hand, at any rate 
as regards hunting and shooting. No doubt, 
as is sometimes urged, the country was formerly 
his to hunt and roam over at his own sweet 
will — so, for the matter of that, were the present 
sites of Montreal, New York, and Chicago — and 
it may readily be admitted that there is much 
that is pathetic in the fate of the Indian in these 
later days, as in that of all savages who have 
become enmeshed in civilisation's net. By 
nature and tradition a warrior, a hunter, a rover 
amid wildernesses, he has changed his airy teepee 
for a mud hut, and is condemned to a life of 
enforced inaction in the comparatively narrow 
confines of his reserve. On the other hand, it is 
useless to shut our eyes to the facts. The 
Indians could not in these days live by the 
chase, even if they were permitted to hunt more 
freely, for there is not enough game to support 
a tenth of their number. The old free, wild life 
of the prairie and the backwoods cannot now, in 

335 



CLIMBS AND EXPLORATION 

the nature of things, be permanently theirs ; and 
it would surely be wiser to train and habituate 
them, as far as possible, to the changed condi- 
tions of life under which they and their descen- 
dants must henceforth dwell. The main fact 
to be considered in this relation is that at the 
present rate the game will shortly be exter- 
minated, in which case the Red Man will be no 
better off than if he were now debarred from 
hunting ; and then the whole question of main- 
taining and guarding him will have to be con- 
sidered afresh. 

Happily for the hunter whose lot is cast in 
these times when large game is growing ever 
scarcer, if only he be a true lover of Nature in 
all her forms, sport in the mountains offers other 
joys than those contained in the mere gunning 
part of the business. It is enough for such an 
one, even if a stalk be out of the question, to 
sit out in the sunshine on some ridge or hill-top 
and watch the game, whether it be Rocky 
Mountain sheep or goat, or Alpine chamois or 
ibex. Again, half the charm of mountain sport, 
as opposed to mountaineering proper, is that it 
gives you so much time to admire the scenery. 
As you lie concealed behind some knoll or rocky 
protuberance you can watch at your ease the 

336 



SPORT AND GAME 

face of the landscape changing with each change 
in Nature's moods, the great glaciers and snows 
around you, while above them the tall peaks 
thrust their heads up into the deep blue sky. 
Below, on the grassy hillside, the big-eyed, 
white-faced ewes keep watch and ward over the 
lambs frisking and gambolling around them, 
while further off, on some jutting promontory of 
crag, may be seen the curving massive horns of 
an old sentinel ram, his eyes intently fixed on 
the middle distance, alert and ready to give the 
alarm the moment that danger threatens. Such 
a sight consoles you for much hard work or long 
hours of waiting, or even for the disappointments 
of the chase ; and you feel that, kill or no kill, 
after all your labour has not been entirely in 
vain, and that life is worth living — at any rate in 
the mountains. 



337 



Y 



INDEX 



Abbot, P. S., killed on Mount 

Lefroy, 15, 22 
Abbott, Mount, 215 
Aberdeen, Mount, 14 
Alberta, Mount, 108, 129, 154 
Alexandra, Mount, 198, 276 
Allen, S. S., 314 
Appalachian Club, 12, 16 
Assiniboine, Mount, 13, 21 ; 

ascent of, 233 
Astoria, 4 

Asulkan valley, 150, 217 
Athabasca Glacier, 103, 117 

Pass, 68, 152, 157, 229 

Peak, 103, 105 

River, ] 25 ; source of, 102 

Avalanche, ice, 128 

Baker, G. P., 24, 39 
Pass, 64 

Balfour, ascent of Mount, 34 
Ballard, trapper, 247, 259 
Banff, 72, 237 

Bassett, C, 161; accident to, 162 
Bear Creek, 42, 44, 242; ford 
of, 45, 90, 258 ; camping- 
ground, 88, 136, 245 
Bear-hunt, 144, 147 
Bears in Rockies, 148, 328 
Beaver, 166, 250 
Big Bend, on Columbia river, 

157, 169 
Bighorn, 82, 292, 324 

hunting, 112, 327 

Biltong, dried meat, 123, 135 



Birds, in Rockies, 94 
Black, C, 39, 161, 204 

flies, 187, 195 

Blackwater Creek, 163, 212 
Blaeberry Creek, 59, 159, 329 
" Blaze," on trees, 26, 80 
Bluewater Creek, 163, 198, 226 
Bonney, Professor T. G., 228, 
314 

Bow Lake, lower, 34 ; upper, 42, 
141 

Pass, 42, 141, 244 

River, 73, 143 

trail, 25, 40, 145, 241 

Brazeau valley, 102, 133, 325 
Brown, Mount, 13, 54, 68, 122 ; 
height determined by Pro- 
fessor Coleman, 69, 153 
Bryce, Mount, 108, 119, 198; 

ascended by Outram, 285 
Bulldog flies, 76, 242, 307 
Bush Pass, 284 

Peak, 172, 191, 198 ; named 

by Collie, 227 

River, 158, 168, 172 

valley, depth of, 191, 227 

Byers, W', 73, 96 

Cache, of provisions, 90, 136, 
200 

Camp, life in, 285 
Canadian Pacific Railroad, built, 
11 

Cariboo, 192, 324 
Road, 7 



339 



INDEX 



Cataract River, 82, 325 
Cayooses, Indian ponies, 41, 46, 

95 ; their love of water, 85, 

176, 182 
Cheadle, Dr., 10, 185, 249 
Chipmunk squirrel, 95 
Cinch ropes, 296, 309 
Cline, trader, 82, 306 
Peak, 306 

Coleman, Professor, 13, 69, 229. 
325 

Columbia ice-field, 2, 107, 119, 
199 

Mount, 108, 119, 194, 202 ; 

first sight of, by Collie, 54, 
69 ; ascended by Outram, 260 

River, 2, 160, 163; pro- 
bable former source of, 231 

trail, 163, 212 

Committee's Punch Bowl, 68, 
153, 229 

Conway, Sir Martin, 288 

Coronation Peak, 276, 285 

Cross-bills, 166 

Dawson, Dr. G. M., 11, 231 
Death Trap, the, 18 
Deltaform, Mount, 315, 317 
Desolation Valley, 313 
Devil's club creeper, 175, 189 
Diadem, Mount, 111, 126; ascent 

of, 128 
Diamond hitch, 25, 286 
Dixon, Professor H. B., 18 
Dogs, voracity of, 104, 134, 141 
Dolomite Valley, 79, 305 
Dome, ascent of The, 121 
Donald, 157, 162 
Douglas, David, 69, 151 

Peak, 121 

Roy, 73, 124 

Eagle Peak, 150 
Edith, Mount, 218 



I Fay, Professor C. E., 15, 23 

1 Field, 65, 160 

j Mount, 65 

I Fires, forest, 84, 133, 288; at 

\ Glacier Lake, 296, 804 

i Fish Lake, 212 
Fishing, trout, 42, 143, 213, 830 
Fool-hen, grouse, 99, 136 
Forbes, Mount, 49, 57, 262, 299 ; 

ascent of, 277 
Forest scenery, 137, 149, 164 
Fortress Lake, 229, 234 
Fossil forest, 139 
Fossils, in Bush valley, 228 ; in 

Desolation valley, 314 
Eraser River, explored, 6 
Freshfield glacier, 51, 264 

Mount, 52, 264 ; ascent of, 

266 

Geese, wild, 180, 196 

Geological Survey, Canadian, 12 

Girlie, packhorse, 96, 182 

Glacier House, 146, 216 

Lake, 292, 298 

(Joat-hunting, 203, 261, 327 

Goat Peak, 197, 202 

Goats, wild, 197, 253, 271, 291, 
328 

Golden, 160 

Goodsir, Mount, 817 

Gophers, 123 
I Gordon, ascent of Mount, 28 
I Gorge, of Bear Creek, 256 ; of 

Bush river, 194 
I Green, Rev. W. S., 222 
; Greenhow, Robert, 70 

Grey horse, 46, 95 

Grizzly bears, 146, 245 ; spoor 
of, 147 

Grouse, 99, 209, 329 

I 

: Habel, Jean, 65, 234 



INDEX 



Hector, Dr., 8, 55, 82, 187, 

325 

Mount, 15, 241 

Henry, Alexander, 5, 58 
Hooker, Mount, 13, 54, 68, 122 
Howse Pass, 8, 57, 229 

Peak, 140, 244 ; ascent of, 

287 

Huber and Sulzer, ascend Mount 

Sir Donald, 223 
Hudson's Bay Company, 3 
Hungabee, Mount, 21, 31, 314 

Illecillewaet Glacier, 148, 222 
Indians, Red, 333, 335 

Jays, blue, 173 

Joe, horse, 96, 161, 189 

Kangaroo mouse, 190 
Kaufmann, Christian, 247, 261, 
278 

Hans, 233, 238, 258, 267, 

317 

Kicking Horse Pass, 8, 236 

River, 65 

Kootenay Plains, 82, 325 
River, 7, 230 

Laggan, 73, 145, 239 

Lang, H., 163, 177; nearly 

drowned, 178 
Larches, 313 

Lefroy, ascent of Mount, 17 

Log-jam, near Glacier Lake, 292 

Loon, duck, 167 

^* Loops," the, on Canadian 
Pacific Railway, 146, 225 

Louise, Lake, 17 

Luggage, loss of, 237 

Lyell glacier, 47, 227, 281 ; ex- 
plored, 300 

ice-fall, 302 



Lyell, Mount, 108, 198, 300; 
ascended by Outram, 260 

Mac Alpine, Alistair, 161, 204 
MacEvoy, Mr., 12 
Mackenzie, Sir Alexander, 4 
Marmots, 124 
Mathews, W. L., 72, 288 
I Mattress, the bedroom, 239, 307 

ode to, 308 

Michael, Professor A., 16, 23, 
215 

Middle Fork of Saskatchewan, 

47, 91, 258 
Milton, Viscount, 10, 185, 249 
Mink, 190, 250 
MoUison, Miss, 65, 317 
Molly, the bell-mare, 80, 85, 95, 

161 

Moraine Lake, 312 
Mosquitoes, 40, 77 ; in Bush 

valley, 169, 206 
Mummery, Mount, 29, 62 
! Murchison, Mount, 29, 39, 74, 

92, 138, 305 ; ascent of, 252 
Murray, Clarence, 241 
Muskeg, 26, 167 
JMusk-rat, 190, 250 

National Park, at Banff, 331 
Neptuak, ascent of Mount, 315 
North Fork, of Bush River, 192, 
195 

North Fork of Saskatchewan, 
92, 134 

North West Fur Company, 3, 57 
Noyes, Rev. C. L. , 16, 79 ; as- 
cends Mount Balfour, 34 
Peak, 305 

Outram, Rev. James, 233, 247, 
260 ; ascends Mount Assini- 
boine and other peaks, 233 



INDEX 



Painter's brush, 78. 275 
Palliser, Captain J., 8, 324; 

Journals of^ 49, 67 
Parker, H. C, 16, 43 
Peace River, 2 
Peyto, W., 25, 41, 73, 161 

Lake, 44 

Pilkington, Mount, 52, 270 
Pinto, the, pack-horse, 96, 161 
Pipestone Creek, 76 

Pass, 77 

Pisgah, Mount, 171, 174 
Porcupine, 95 
Prospectors' Valley, 314 
Ptarmigan, 105, 112 
Pyramid Peak, 140, 244, 258 

Raft, on Bush River, 177 ; on 

Glacier Lake, 297 
Robson, Jack, 239, 265, 293 

Peak, 12, 154 

Rock-fall, immense, 126 
Ross, Alexander, 6 
Ross Cox, 4 

Rupert, Prince, charter granted 
to, 3 

Sabbach, ascent of Mount, 47 

Peter, 16, 52 

Saskatchewan River, 83, 135 ; 

cataract on, 102 ; source of, 

102 

Scattergood, J. H., 233 
Selkirk Mountains, 149, 167, 

215, 221 
Shack, trapper's, 244, 247 
Sheep, wild (see Bighorn) 
Siffleur River, 78 
Simpson, Sir G., 7 

Pass, 7 

trapper, 247, 257 

Sir Donald, Mount, 146, 222; 

ascent of, 224 



Slate Range, 78, 143 
" Smudge," 77, 169 

I Spencer, Sydney, 159 ; ascends 

j Peak Swanzy, 215 

I Squirrels, 95, 124 

I Starvation, 135, 143 
Stephens, Fred, 65, 161, 183,236 
Stoney Indians, 292, 333 
Strata, curious, in Bush valley, 

209, 227 
Sunset, magnificent, 207 
Sun Wapta river, 125, 234 
Survey Peak, 91, 295 
Swans, wild, 174, 193, 330 
Swanzy, Peak, 215 

Teepee, Indian tent, 77 
Temple, Mount, 14, 312 
Ten Peaks, the, 233, 313 
Tete Jaune Cache, 157 
Tewksbury, Dave, 241, 244, 294 
Thompson, C. S., 16, 79, 233, 

238 ; falls into a crevasse, 30 

David, 5, 70, 324 

Pass, 99, 229 

Peak, ascent of, 142 

Thunderstorm on Mount 

Diadem, 130 
! Timber, fallen, 26, 79, 145, 185, 

211 

j Topham, Harold, 222 
I Trappers, 62, 247 

! life of, 249 

I Twins, The, 120, 198 

I 

Vavasour, Nigel, 73, 113 
Vermilion Lakes, the, 73 
^ Victoria, ascent of Mount, 23 

Waitabit Creek, 163, 198, 226 
Walker, Mount, 52, 270 

! Waputehk ice-field, 21, 29, 141 

I Wash-out, 48, 260 



INDEX 



Wasps, plague of, 307 
Waterfowl Lakes, 44, 140, 304 
Weed, G. M. , 79, 233, 238 
West Branch of Saskatchewan, 

97 ; explored by Thompson, 99 
Whymper, Edward, 231 
Wilcox, W. D,, 13, 110, 311 

Pass, 110, 124 

Peak, 110, 123 

VFilson, Tom, 39, 72 ; crosses 

Howse Pass, 59, 159 
Mount, 83, 94, 259 



I Wild Sheep Hills, 113, 131 
Wolverine, 250 
Wood River, 158, 226, 229 
Woolley, H., 72 

Mount, 126 

Writing-desk, shape of peaks, 
78, 259 

Yellowhead Pass, 10, 12, 154, 
157 

Young, Mrs., 214 



THE END 



Printed by Ballantyne, Hanson dy Co. 
Edinburgh df London 



H Classifieb (Tatalooue 

OF WORKS IN 

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PUBLISHED BY 

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CONTENTS. 



BADMINTON LIBRARY (THE). - 

BIOGRAPHY, PERSONAL ME- 
MOIRS, &c. 

CHILDREN'S BOOKS 

CLASSICAL LITERATURE, TRANS- 
LATIONS, ETC. . . . . 

COOKERY, DOMESTIC MANAGE- 
MENT, &c. 

EVOLUTION. ANTHROPOLOGY, 



PAGE 
12 



36 



&C. 



FICTION, HUMOUR, &c. - - - 25 
FINE ARTS (THE) AND MUSIC - 36 
FUR, FEATHER AND FIN SERIES 15 
HISTORY, POLITICS, POLITY, 

POLITICAL MEMOIRS, &c. - - 3 
LANGUAGE, HISTORY AND 

SCIENCE OF - - - - - 20 
LOGIC, RHETORIC, PSYCHOLOGY, 
&c. 



MENTAL, MORAL, AND POLITICAL 
PHILOSOPHY 17 

MISCELLANEOUS AND CRITICAL 
WORKS 38 

POETRY AND THE DRAMA - 

POLITICAL ECONOMY AND ECO- 
NOMICS - - - - - 



POPULAR SCIENCE . - - . 

RELIGION, THE SCIENCE OF 

SILVER LIBRARY (THE) 

SPORT AND PASTIME - 

STONYHURST PHILOSOPHICAL 
SERIES 

TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE, THE 
COLONIES, &c. . . . - 



17 WORKS OF REFERENCE 



23 

20 
30 
21 

33 
12 

19 

II 
31 



INDEX 

Page 



OF AUTHORS AND 



Abbott (Evelyn) = 

(J. H. M.) 

(T. K.) - 

(E. A.) - 

Acland (A. H. D.) 
Acton (Eliza) - 
Adelborg (O.) - 
iEschylus 
Albemarle (Earl of) 
Alcock (C. W.) 
Allen (Grant) - 
Allgood (G.) - 
Alverstone (Lord) 
Angwin (M. C.) 
Anstey (F.) 
Aristophanes - 
Aristotle - 
Arnold (Sir Edwin) 

(Dr. T.) - 

Ashbourne (Lord) 
Ashby (H.) 
Ashley (W. J.) - 
Atkinson (J. J.) 
Avebury (Lord) 
Ayre (Rev. J.) - 
Bacon 

Bagehot (W.) - 
Bagwell (R.) - 
Bailey (H. C.) - 
Baillie (A. F.) - 
Bain (Alexander) 
Baker (J. H.) - 

(Sir S. W.) 

Baldwin (C. S.) 



19, 22 

3 

17,18 
17 
3 

36 
32 
22 
13 
15 
30 
3 
15 
36 
25 
22 
17 
11,23 
3 
3 
36 



Balfour (A. J.) 
Ball (John) 
Banks (M. M.) - 
Baring-Gould(Rev.S.)2 
Barnett(S.A. and H.) 
Baynes (T. S.) - 
Beaconsfield (Earl of) 



Page 
13, 21 



Beaufort (Duke of)i2,i3,i4 
Becker (W. A.) 
Beesly (A. H.) - 
Bell (Mrs. Hugh) - 
Bent (J. Theodore) - 
Besant (Sir Walter)- 
Bickerdyke (J.) 
Bird (G.) - 
Blackburne (J. H.) - 
Bland (Mrs. Hubert) 
Blount (Sir E.l 
Boase (Rev. C. W.) - 
Boedder (Rev. B.) - 
Bonnell (H. H.) 



31 

- 9.17 
9, 20, 38 

3 
25 
3 
17 

- 38 

- II, 12 
17 



Booth (A. J.) - 
Bottome (P.) - 
Bowen (W. E.) 
Brassey (Lady) 
Bright (Rev. J. F.) - 
Broadfoot (Major W.) 
Brooks (H. J.) - 
Brough(J.) - 
Brown (A. F.) - 
Bruce (R. L) - 
Buckland (Jas.) 
Buckle (H. T.) - 
Bull (T.) - 



Burke (U.R.) - 
Burne-Jones (Sir E.) 
Burns (C. L.) - 
Burrows (Montagu) 
Butler (E. A.) - 
Campbell (Rev. Lewis) 
Casserly (G.) - 
Chesney (Sir G.) 
Childe-Pemberton(W.S.) 9 
Chisholm (G. C ) - 31 
Cholmondeley-Pennell 

(H.) - - - 13 
Christie (R. C.) - 38 
Churchill (Winston S.) 4, 25 
Cicero - - - 22 
Clarke (Rev. R. F.) 
Climenson (E. J.) 
Clodd (Edward) 
Clutterbuck (W. J.) 
Cochrane (A.) - 
Cockerell (C. R.) 



Colenso (R. J.) 
Conington (John) - 
Conybeare (Rev. W. J .) 

& Howson (Dean) 
Coolidge (W. A. B.) 
Corbett (Julian S.) - 
Coutts (W.) - 
Cox (Harding) 
Crake (Rev. A. D.) - 
Crawford (J. H.) - 
Creed (S.) 
Creiehton (Bishop) 
Cross (A. L.) - 



EDITORS. 

Page • 

Crozier (J. B.) - 
Cutts (Rev. E. L.) - 
Dabney (J. P.) - 
Dale (L.) - 
Dallinger (F. W.) - 
Dauglish (M. G.) - 
Davenport (A.) 
Davidson (A. M. C.) 

(W. L.) - 17, 

Davies (J. F.) - 
Dent (C. T.) - 
De Salis (Mrs.) 
De Tocqueville (A.) - 
Devas (C. S.) - 
Dewey(D. R.)- 
Dickinson (W. H.) - 
Dougall (L.) - 
Dowden (E.) - 
Doyle (Sir A. Conan) 
Du Bois (W. E. B.)- 
Dunbar (Mary F.) - 
Dyson (E.) 
Ellis (J. H.) - 

(R. L.) - - 

Erasmus - 
Evans (Sir John) - 
Falkiner (C. L.) 
Farrar (Dean) - 
13 ! Fitzmaurice (Lord E 
32 I Folkard (H. C.) 
25 j Ford (H.) - 
25 I Fountain (P 
4, 6, 9 Fowler (Edith H.) - 
5 Francis (Francis) 



19 



21, 30 
12 



33 



Page 
9. 17 
6 
23 
4 
5 
9 
25 
22 
20, 21 
22 
14 
36 
4 

19, 20 
20 
38 
25 
40 
25 

5 
25 
26 
15 
17 

9 
38 

4 

20, 26 
) 4 

15 
16 
II 
26 
16 



26 

6 
i6 
38 
,26 

5 
30 

5 

16 

38 
17 
38, 
10 

5 ! 
16 
20 
15 
17 

9 
23 
18 

5 
5 

18 1 

J I 
13 I 
18 I 
31 I 

10 

5 
36 

5 
II 
14 
27 
15 
30 

8 
36 
37 
17 
14 
14 
II 

30 

9 
14 
32 

9 

5 

5 

13 
22 
18 
38 
9 
10 
22 
27 
22 
5 
27 
II 
30 
37 
37 
18 
3 
6 
6 

I 

38 
23 
6 
, 21 
37 
38 
38 



AUTHORS 

Page 

Jerome (Jerome K.) - 27 
Johnson (J .& J. H.) 39 
Jones (H. Bence) - 31 
Joyce (P. W.) - 6, 27, 39 
Justinian - - - 18 
Kant (I.) - - 18 

Kaye (Sir J. W.) - 6 
Keary (C. F.j - - 23 
Kelly (E.)- - - 18 
Kielmansegge (F.) - 9 
Killick (Rev. A. H.) - 18 
Kitchin (Dr. G. W.) 6 
Knight (E. 5".) - - 11, 14 
Kostlin (J.) - - 10 
Kristeller (P.) - - 37 
Ladd (G. T.) - - 18 
Lang (Andrew) 6 ,13, 14, 16, 
21, 22, 23, 27, 32, 39 
Lapsley (G. T.) - 5 
Laurie (S. S.) - - 6 
Lawrence (F. W.) - 20 
Lear (H. L. Sidney) - 36 
Lecky (W. E. H.) 6, 18, 23 
Lees (J. A.) - - 12 
Leighton (J. A.) - 21 
Leslie (T. E. Cliffe) - 20 
Lieven (Princess) - 6 
Lillie (A.) - - - 16 
Lindley (J.) - - 31 
Locock (C. D.) - 16 
Lodge (H. C.) - - 6 
Loftie (Rev. W. J.) - 6 
Longman (C. J.) - 12, 16 

(F. W.) - - 16 

(G. H.) - -13,15 

(Mrs. C. J.) - 37 

Lowell (A. L.) - - 6 
Lucian - - - 22 
Lutoslawski (W.) . - 18 
Lyall (Edna) - - 27, 32 
Lynch (G.) - - 6 

(H. F. B.)- - 12 

Lytton (Earl of) - 24 
Macaulay (Lord) 6,7, 10,24 
Macdonald (Dr. G.) - 24 
Macfarren (Sir G. A.) 37 
Mackail (J. W.) - 10, 23 
Mackenzie (C. G.) - 16 
Mackinnon (J.) - 7 
Macleod (H. D.) - 20 
Macpherson (Rev.H.A.) 15 
Madden (D. H.) - 16 
Magniisson (E.) - 28 
Maher (Rev. M.) - 19 
Mallet (B.) - - 7 
Malleson (Col. G. B.) 6 
Marbot (Baron de) - 10 
Marchment (A. W.) 27 
Marshman (J. C.) - 9 
Maryon (M.) - - 39 
Mason (A. E. W.) - 27 
Maskelyne (J. N.) - 16 
Matthews (B.) - 39 
Maunder (S.) - - 31 
Max MiiUer (F.) 

ID, 18, 20, 21, 22, 27, 39 
May (Sir T. Erskine) 7 
Meade (L. T.) - - 32 
Melville (G. J. Whyte) 27 
Merivale (Dean) - 7 
Mernman (H. S.) - 27 
Mill (John Stuart) - 18, 20 
Millais (J. G.) - - 16, 30 
Milner (G.) - - 40 
Monck(W. H. S.) - 19 
Montague (F. C.) - 7 
Moore (T.) - - 31 

(Rev. Edward) - 17 

Moran (T. F.) - - 7 
Morgan (C. Lloyd) - 21 
Morris (W.) - 22, 23, 24, 
27, 28, 37, 40 
Mulhall (M. G.) - 20 
Murray (Hilda) - 33 
Myers (F. W. H.) - 19 



AND EDIT' 

Page 

Nansen (F.) - - 12 
Nash (V.) - - - 7 
Nesbit (E.) - - 24 
Nettleship (R. L.) - 17 
Newman (Cardinal) - 28 
Nichols (F. M.) - 9 
Oakesmith (J.) - - 22 
Ogilvie (R.) - - 22 
Oldfield (Hon. Mrs.) 9 
Osbourne (L.) - - 28 
Packard (A. S.) - 21 
Paget (Sir J.) - - 10 
Park(W.) - - 16 
Parker (B.) - - 40 
Payne-Gallwey (Sir R.) 14,16 
Pears (E.) - - 7 
Pearse (H. H. S.) - 6 
Peek (Hedley) - - 14 
Pemberton (W. S. 

Childe-) - - 9 
Penrose (H. H.) - 33 
Phillipps-Wolley(C.) 12,28 
Pierce (A. H.) - - 19 
Pole (W.) - - - 17 
Pollock (W. H.) - 13, 40 
Poole (W.H. and Mrs.) 36 
Poore (G. V.) - - 40 
Portman (L.) - - 28 
Powell (E.) - - 7 
Powys (Mrs. P. L.) - 10 
Praeger (S. Rosamond) 33 
Pritchett (R. T.) - 14 
Proctor (R. A.) 16, 30, 35 
Raine (Rev. James) - 6 
Ramal (W.) - - 24 
Randolph (C. F.) - 7 
Rankin (R.) - - 8, 25 
Ransome (Cyril) - 3, 8 
Reid(S. J.) - - 9 
Rhoades (J.) - - 23 
Rice (S. P.) - - 12 
Rich (A.) - - - 23 
Richmond (Ennis) - 19 
Rickaby (Rev. John) 19 

(Rev. Joseph) - 19 

Riley (J. W.) - - 24 
Roberts (E. P.) - 33 
Robertson (W. G.) - 37 
Roget (Peter M.) - 20, 31 
Romanes (G.J.) lo, 19,21,24 

(Mrs. G. J.) - 10 

Ronalds (A.) - - 17 
Roosevelt (T.) - - 6 
Ross (Martin) - - 28 
Rossetti (Maria Fran- 

cesca) - - - 40 
Rotheram (M. A.) - 36 
Rowe (R. P. P.) - 14 
Russell (Lady) - - 10 
Sandars (T. C.) - 18 
Sanders (E. K.) - 9 
Savage- Armstrong(G.F.)25 
Seebohm (F.) - - 8, 10 
Selous (F. C.) - - 12, 17 
Senior (W.) - - 13,15 
Seton-Karr (Sir H.)- 8 
Sewell (Elizabeth M.) 28 
Shadwell (A.) - - 40 
Shakespeare - - 25 
Shaw (W. A.) - - 8 
Shearman (M.) - 12, 13 { 
Sheehan (P. A.) - 28 
Sheppard (E.) - - 8 
Sinclair (A.) - - 14 
Skrine (F. H.) - - 9 
Smith (C. Fell) - 10 

(R. Bosworth) - 8 : 

(T. C.) - - 5 

(W.P. Haskett) 12 

Somerville (E.) - 28 
Sophocles - - 23 
Soulsby (Lucy H.) - 40 
Southey (R.) - - 40 
Spedding (J.) - - 9. ^7 
Spender (A. E.) - 12 



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Haggard (H. Rider) — contimied. 

Beatrice. With Frontispiece and 
Vignette. Crown 8vo., 3s. 6rf. 

Black Heart and White He art y 
AND OTHER S TORIES. With 33 Illustra- 
tions. Crown 8vo., 3s. 6d. 

Cleopatra. With 29 Illustrations. 
Crown 8vo., 3s. 6<i. 

Colonel Qua r itch, V.C. With 
Frontispiece and Vignette. Cr. 8vo., 3s. 6d. 

Dawn. With 16 Illustrations. Cr. 
8vo., 3s. od. 

Dr. Therne. Crown 8vo., 3s. 6d.. 

Eric Brighteyes. With 51 Illus- 
trations. Crown 8vo., 3s. ^d. 

Heart of the World. With 15 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo., 3s. 6rf. 

Joan Haste. With 20 Illustrations, 
Crown 8vo., 3s. td. 

Lysbeth. With 26 Illustrations. 
Crown 8vo., 6s. 

Maiwa's Revenge, Cr. Svo., 15. ^d, 

Montezuma's Daughter. With 24 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo. , 3s. td. 

Mr. Meeson's Will. With 16 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo.. 3s. 6(i. 

Nada the Lily. With 23 Illustra- 
tions. Crown 8vo., 3s. ^d. 

Pearl-Maiden: a Tale of the 
Fall of Jerusalem. With 16 Illustrations. 
Crown Svo., 6s. 

She. With 32 Illustrations. Crown 
8vo., 3s. 6(f. 

Swallow : a Tale of the Great Trek. 
With 8 Illustrations. Crown 8vo., 3s. ^d. 

The People of the Mist. With 
16 Illustrations. Crown 8vo., 3s. bd. 



Allan's Wife. With 34 Illustra- 
tions. Crown 8vo., 3s. td. 



The Witch's Head. With 16 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo., 3s, 6rf. 



MESSRS. LONGMANS & CO.'S STANDARD AND GENERAL WORKS. 27 



Fiction, Humour, &e. — continued. 



Haggard and \^dSi%—TH eWorld's 

Desire. By H. Rider Haggard and 
Andrew Lang. With 27 Illustrations. 
Crown 8vo., 3s. 6d. 

Harte. — In the Carquinez Woods. 
By Bret Harte. Crown 8vo., 35. ^d. 

Hope, — The Heart of Princess 
OsRA. By Anthony Hope. With 9 Illus- 
trations. Crown 8vo., 3s. 6d. 

Howard. — The Failure of Success. 
By Lady Mabel Howard. Crown 8vo., 
65. 

Hutchinson. — A Friend of Nelson. 

By Horace G. Hutchinson. Cr. 8vo., 6s. 

Jerome. — Sketches in Lavender: 
Blue and Green. By Jerome K. Jerome, 
Author of ' Three Men in a Boat,' etc. 
Crown 8vo., 35. Qd. 

Joyce. — Old Celtic Romances. 
Twelve of the most beautiful of the Ancient 
Irish Romantic Tales. Translated from the 
Gaehc. By P. W. Joyce, LL.D. Crown 
8vo., 3s. 6d. 

Lang (Andrew). 

A Monk of Fife ; a Story of the 
Days of Joan of Arc. With 13 Illustra- 
tions by Selwyn Image. Crown 8vo., 
3s. 6d. 

The Disentanglers. With 7 
Full-page Illustrations by H. J. Ford. 
Crown 8vo., 65. 



Lyall (Edna). 
The Hinderers. Crown 8vo . , 25. 6<i. 

The a utobiography of a Slander. 
Fcp. 8vo., 15. sewed. 

Presentation Edition. With 20 Illustra- 
tions by Lancelot Speed. Crown 
8vo., 25. ^d. net. 

DoREEN. The Story of a Singer. 
Crown 8vo., 6s. 

Wayfaring Men. Crown 8vo., 65. 

Hope the- Hermit : a. Romance of 
Borrowdale. Crown 8vo., 65. 



Marchmont. — In the Name of a 
Woman: a Romance. By Arthur W. 
Marchmont. With 8 Illustrations. Crown 
8vo., 6s. 



Mason and Lang. —Parson Kelly. 

By A. E. W. Mason and Andrew Lang.^ 
Crown 8vo., 3s. ^d. 



Max M tiller. — Deutsche Liebe 
[German Love) : Fragments from the 
Papers of an Alien. Collected by F. Max 
MuLLER. Translated from the German by 
G. A. M. Crown 8vo., gilt top, 5s. 



Melville (G. J. Whyte). 



The Gladiators. 
The Interpreter. 
Good for Nothing. 
The Queen's Maries, 

Crown 8vo., is. 6d. each 



Holmby House. 
Kate Coventry. 
Digby Grand. 
General Bounce. 



Merriman. — Flotsam: A Story of 

the Indian Mutiny. By Henry Seton 
Merriman. With Frontispiece and Vig- 
nette by H. G. Massey. Cr. 8vo., 3s. 6d. 



Morris (William). 

The Sundering Flood. Cr. 8vo., 
ys. 6d. 

The Water of the Wondrous 
Isles. Crown 8vo., 7s. 6d. 

The Well a t the World's End. 
2 vols. 8vo., 28s. 

The Wood Beyond the World. 

Crown 8vo., 6s. net. 

The Story of the Glittering 
Plain, which has been also called The 
Land of the Living Men, or The Acre of 
the Undying. Square post 8vo., 5s. net. 

The Foots of the Mountains, 
wherem is told somewhat of the Lives of 
the Men of Burgdale, their Friends, their 
Neighbours, their Foemen, and their 
Fellows-in-Arms. Written in Prose and 
Verse. Square crown 8vo., 8s. 



28 MESSRS. LONGMANS & CO.'S STANDARD AND GENERAL WORKS. 



Fiction, Humour, &e. — continued. 



Morris (William) — continued. 

A Tale of the House of the 
WoLFiNGS, and all the Kindreds of the 
Mark. Written in Prose and Verse. 
Square crown 8vo., 6s. 

A Dream of John Ball, and a 
King's Lesson. i6mo., 25. net. 

News from Nowhere; or, An 
Epoch of Rest. Being some Chapters 
from an Utopian Romance. Post Svo., 
IS. 6d. 

The Story of Grettir the Strong. 
Translated from the Icelandic by Eirikr 
Magnusson and William Morris. Cr. 
Svo., 5s. net. 

Three Northern Love Stories, 
AND Other Tales. Translated from the 
Icelandic by Eirikr Magnusson and 
William Morris. Crown 8vo., 6s. net. 

*^* For Mr. William Morris's other 
Works, see pp. 24, 37 and 40. 



Newman (Cardinal). 

Loss and Gain: The Story of a 
Convert. Crown 8vo., 3s. 6d. 

Callista : A Tale of the Third 
Century. Crown 8vo., 3s. 6d. 



Phillipps-WoUey. — Snap: a Legend 
of the Lone Mountain. By C. Phillipps- 
WoLLEY. With 13 Illustrations. Crown 
8vo., 3s. 6d. 



Portman. — -Station Studies : being 

the Jottings of an African Official. By 
Lionel Portman. Crown Svo., 5s. net. 



Sewell (Elizabeth M.). 



A Glimpse of the World, 
Laneton Parsonage. 
Margaret Percivai. 
Katharine Ashton. 
The Earl's Daughter. 
The Experience of Life. 



Amy Herbert, 
Cleve Hall. 
Gertrude. 
Home Life. 
After Life. 
Ursula. Ivors. 



Cr. Svo., cloth plain, is. 6d. each. Cloth 
extra, gilt edges, 2s. 6d. each. 



Sheehan. — Luke Delmege. B}^ 

the Rev. P. A. Sheehan, P.P., Author of 
' My New Curate '. Crown Svo., 6s. 



Somerville (E. CE.) and Ross 

(Martin). 



Some Experiences of an Irish 
R.M. With 31 Illustrations by E. CE. 
Somerville. Crown Svo., 6s. 



All on the Irish Shore : Irish 
.Sketches. With Illustrations by E. Oi. 
Somerville. Crown Svo., 6s. 

The Real Charlotte. Crown 
Svo., 3s. ^d. 

The Silver Fox. Cr. 8vo., 35. ^d. 



Stebbing. — Rachel Wulfstan, and 
other Stories. By W. Stebbing, author of 
' Probable Tales '. Crown Svo., 4s. 6J. 



Stevenson (Robert Louis). 

The Strange Case of Dr.Jekyll 
AND Mr. Hyde. Fcp. Svo., is. sewed. 
IS. 6d. cloth. 

The Strange Case of Dr. 
Jekyll and Mr. Hyde; with other 
Fables. Crown Svo., bound in buckram, 
with gilt top, 5s. net. 

' Silver Library ' Edition. 'Crown Svo., 
3s. 6d. 

More New Arabian Nights — The 
Dynamiter. By Robert Louis Steven- 
son and Fanny van de Grift Steven- 
son. Crown Svo., 3s. 6d. 

The Wrong Box. By Robert 
Louis Stevenson and Lloyd Osbourne. 
Crown Svo., 3s. td. 



MESSRS. LONGMANS & CO.'S STANDARD AND GENERAL WORKS. 29 



Fietion, Humou 

Suttner. — Lav Down Your Arms 
{Die Waffen Nieder) : The Autobiography 
of Martha von Tilling. By Bertha von 
Suttner. Translated by T. Holmes. 
Cr. 8vo., 15. 6d. 



TroUope (Anthony). 

7''he Warden. Cr. 8vo., 15. 6d. 
Barchester Towers. Cr.8vo.,i5.6<i. 



Walford (L. B.). 

St AY- AT- Homes. Crown 8vo., 65. 

Charlotte. Crown 8vo., 65. 

One of Ourselves. Cr. 8vo., 65. 

The Intruders. Crown 8vo., is. 6d. 

Leddy Marget. Crown 8vo. , is, 6d. 

IvA Kildare : a Matrimonial Pro- 
blem. Crown 8vo., 2S. 6d. 

Mr. Smith: a Part of his Life. 
Crown 8vo., 2s. 6d. 

The Baby^s Grandmother. Cr. 
8vo., 25. ^d. 

Cousins. Crown 8vo., is. 6d. 

Troublesome Daughters. Cr. 
8vo., 25. 6d. 

Pauline. Crown 8vo., is. 6d. 

Dick Netherby. Cr. 8vo., is. 6d. 

The If is TORY of a Week. Cr. 

8vO. 25. Qd. 

A Stiff-necked Generation. Cr. 
8vo. 25. 6d. 

IVan, and other Stories. Cr. 8vo., 

25. 6d. 



% &e. — contimted. 
Walford (L. B.) — continued. 

The Mischief of Monica. Cr» 

8vo., 25. bd. 

The One Good Guest. Cr. 8vo. 
25. td. 

' Ploughed,^ and other Stories. 
Crown 8vo., 25. 6rf. 

The Ma tchma ker . C r . 8 vo . , 2s. 6<i. 



Ward. — One Poor Scruple. By 
Mrs. Wilfrid Ward. Crown Svo., 65. 



Weyman (Stanley). 

The House of the Wolf. With 
Frontispiece and Vignette. Crown 8vo.^ 
35. ^d. 

A Gentleman of France. With 
Frontispiece and Vignette. Cr. 8vo., 65. 

The Red Cockade. With Frontis- 
piece and Vignette. Crown 8vo., 65. 

Shrewsbury. With 24 Illustra- 
tions by Claude A. Shepperson. Cr. 
8vo., 65. 

Sophia. With Frontispiece. Crowrk 
8vo., 65, 



Yeats (S. Levett). 

The Chevalier D'Auriac. Crowa 
8vo., 35. ^d. 

The Traitor's Way. Cr. Svo., 65. 



Yoxall. — The RoMMANY Stone. B7 
J. H. Yoxall, M.P. Crown 8vo., 65. 



30 MESSRS. LONGMANS & CO.'S STANDARD AND GENERAL WORKS. 



Popular Seienee (Natural History, &e.). 



Butler. — Our Household Insects. 
An Account of the Insect-Pests found in 
Dwelling-Houses. By Edward A. Butler, 
B.A., B.Sc. (Lond.). With 113 Illustra- 
tions. Crown 8vo., 35. ^d. 



Furneaux (W.). 



The Outdoor World; or The 
Young Collector's Handbook. With 18 
Plates (16 of which are coloured), and 549 
Illustrations in the Text. Crown Svo., 
gilt edges, 6s. net. 

Butterflies and Moths (British). 
With 12 coloured Plates and 241 Illus- 
trations in the Text. Crown Svo., gilt 
edges, 6s. net. 

Life in Ponds and Streams. 
With 8 coloured Plates and 331 Illustra- 
tions in the Text. Crown 8vo., gilt 
edges, 6s. net. 



Hartwig (George). 



The Sea and its Living Wonders. 
With 12 Plates and 303 Woodcuts. 8vo., 
gilt top, 7s. net. 



The Tropical World. With 8 
Plates and 172 Woodcuts. 8vo., gilt 
top, 7s. net. 



The Polar World. With 3 Maps, 
8 Plates and 85 Woodcuts. 8vo., gilt 
top, 7s. net. 



The Subterranean World. With 
3 Maps and 80 Woodcuts. 8vo., gilt 
top, 7s. net. 



Helmholtz. — Popular Lectures on 
Scientific Subjects. By Hermann von 
Helmholtz. With 68 Woodcuts. 2 vols. 
Cr. 8vo., 3s. 6d. each. 



Hudson (W. H.). 

Hampshire Days. With numer- 
ous Illustrations from Drawings by 
Bryan Hook, etc. 8vo., los. 6d. net. 

Birds and Man. Large crown 
8vo., 6s. net. 

Nature in Downland. With 12 
Plates and 14 Illustrations in the Text by 
A. D. McCoRMicK. 8vo., los. ^d. net. 

British Birds. With a Chapter 
on Structure and Classification by Frank 
E. Beddard, F.R.S. With 16 Plates (8 
of which are Coloured), and over 100 Illus- 
trations in the Text. Crown 8vo., gilt 
edges, 6s. net. 



Millais. — The Natural History op 
the British Surface Feeding-Ducks. 
By John Guille Millais, F.Z.S., etc. 
With 6 Photogravures and 66 Plates (41 in 
Colours) from Drawings by the Author, 
Archibald Thorburn, and from Photo- 
graphs. Royal 4to., £6 6s. 



Proctor (Richard A.). 

Light Science for Leisure Hours. 
Familiar Essays on Scientific Subjects. 
Crown 8vo., 3s. 6d. 

Ro UGH Wa ys ma de Smoo th. Fam i - 
liar Essays on Scientific Subjects. Crown 
8vo., 3s. td. 

Plea sa nt Wa ys in Science . C rown 
8vo., 3s. ^d. 

Nature Studies. By R. A. Proc- 
tor, Grant Allen, A. Wilson, T. 
Foster and E. Clodd. Cr. 8vo., 3s. td. 

Leisure Readings. By R. A. Proc- 
tor, E. Clodd, A. Wilson, T. Foster 
and A. C. Ranyard. Cr, 8vo., 3s. ^d. 

* ^ For Mr. Proctor'' s other books see pp. 16 
and 35, and Messrs. Longmans &• Co.^s Cata- 
logue of Scientific Works. 



MESSRS. LONGMANS & CO.'S STANDARD AND GENERAL WORKS. 31 



Popular Science (Natural History, &e.) — continued. 



Stanley. — A Familiar History of 
Birds. By E. Stanley, D.D., formerly 
Bishop of Norwich. With 160 Illustrations. 
Cr. 8vo., 35. ^d. 



Wood (Rev. J. G.). 

Homes without Hands : A Descrip- 
tion of the Habitations of Animals, classed 
according to their Principle of Construc- 
tion. With 140 Illustrations. 8vo., gilt 
top, 75. net. 

Insects at Home : A Popular Ac- 
count of British Insects, their Structure, 
Habits and Transformations. With 700 
Illustrations. 8vo., gilt top, 7s. net. 



Wood (Rev. J. G.) — continued. 

Insects Abroad : A Popular Ac- 
count of Foreign Insects, their Structure, 
Habits and Transformations, With 600 
Illustrations, Svo., js. net. 

Out of Doors; a Selection of 
Original Articles on Practical Natural 
History. With 11 Illustrations. Cr. Svo., 
3s. 6d. 

• 

Petland Revisited. With 33 
Illustrations. Cr. Svo., 35. ^d. 

Strange Dwellings : a Description 
of the Habitations of Animals, abridged 
from ' Homes without Hands '. With 60 
Illustrations. Cr. Svo., 3s. td. 



Works of 



Gwilt. — An Encyclopedia of Ar- 
chitecture. By Joseph Gwilt, F.S.A. 
With 1700 Engravings. Revised (188S), 
with Alterations and Considerable Addi- 
tions by Wyatt Papworth. Svo., 21s. 
net. 



Longmans' Gazetteer of the 
World. Edited by George G. Chis- 
HOLM, M.A., B.Sc. Imperial Svo., 185. net 
cloth ; 21S. half-morocco. 



Maunder (Samuel). 
BioGRAPHicA L Trea sury. With 

Supplement brought down to iSSg. By 
Rev. James Wood. Fcp. Svo., 65. 



The Treasury of Bible Know- 
ledge. By the Rev. J. Ayre, M.A. With 
5 Maps, 15 Plates, and 300 Woodcuts. 
Fcp. Svo., 65. 

Treasury of Knowledge and Lib- 
rary OF Reference. Fcp. Svo., 65. 



Reference. 



Maunder (Samuel; — continued. 



The Treasury OF Botany. Edited 
by J. LiNDLEY, F.R.S., and T. Moore, 
F.L.S. With 274 Woodcuts and 20 Steel 
Plates. 2 vols. Fcp. Svo., 125. 



Roget. — Thesaurus of English 
Words and Phrases. Classified and Ar- 
ranged so as to Facilitate the Expression of 
Ideas and assist in Literary Composition. 
By Peter Mark Roget, M.D., F.R.S. 
Recomposed throughout, enlarged and im- 
proved, partly from the Author's Notes, and 
with a full Index, by the Author's Son,. 
John Lewis Roget. Crown Svo., gs. net. 



VJi\\ic]\.--PopuLAR Tables forgiving 
information for ascertaining the value of 
Lifehold, Leasehold, and Church Property, 
the Public Funds, etc. By Charles M» 
WiLLiCH. Edited by H. Bence Jones. 
Crown Svo., xos. 6d. 



32 MESSRS. LONGMANS & CO.'S STANDARD AND GENERAL WORKS. 



Children' 

Adelborg. — Clean Peter and the 
Children of Grubbylba. By Ottilia 
Adelborg. Translated from the Swedish 
by Mrs. Graham Wallas. With 23 
Coloured Plates. Oblong 4to., boards, 
35. net. 



Alick's Adventures. — By G. R. 

With S Illustrations by John Hassall. 
Crown Svo., 35. 6d. 



Brown. — The Book of Saints and 
Friendly Beasts. By Abbie Farwell 
Brown. With 8 Illustrations by Fanny Y. 
Cory. Crown 8vo., 45. td. net. 



Buckland. — TwoLittleRuna wa ys. 

Adapted from the French of Louis Des- 
noyers. By James Buckland. With 110 
Illustrations by Cecil Aldin. Cr. 8vo., 6s. 



Crake (Rev. A. D.). 

Edwy the Fair: or, The First 
Chronicle of -i^^scendune. Cr. Svo. , silver 
top, 25. net. 

Alegar the Dane ; or, The Second 
Chronicle of ^scendune. Cr. 8vo., silver 
top, 2s. net. 

The Rival Heirs : being the Third 
and Last Chronicle of ^Escendune. Cr. 
8vo., silver top, is. net. 

The House OF Walderne. A Tale 
of the Cloister and the Forest in the Days 
of the Barons' Wars. Crown 8vo., silver 
top, IS. net. 

Brian Fitz- Count. A Story of 
Wallingford Castle and Dorchester 
Abbey. Cr. 8vo., silver top, 25. net. 



Henty (G. A,). — Edited by. 

Yule Logs : A Story-Book for Boys. 
By Various Authors. With 61 Illus- 
trations. Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 3s. net. 

Yule Tide Yarns: a Story-Book 
for Boys. By Various Authors. With 
45 IllustratioDs. Cr. 8vo., gilt edges, 3s. 
net. 



Books. 

ang (Andrew). — Edited by. 

The Bl ue Fa ir y Book. With i 3 8 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 65. 

Tbe Red Fairy Book. With 100 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 65. 

The Green Fa ir y Book. With 99 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 6s. 

The Grey Fairy Book. With 65 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 65. 

The Yellow Fairy Book. With 
104 Illustrations. Cr. 8vo., gilt edges, 6$. 

The Fink Fairy Book. With 67 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 6s. 

The Violet Fairy Book. With 8 
Coloured Plates and 54 other Illustrations. 
Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 6s. 

The Bl ue Foe tr y Book. With i 00 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 6s. 

The True Story Book. With 66 
Illustrations. Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 6s. 

The Red Tr ue Stor y Book. With 
100 Illustrations. Cr. 8vo., gilt edges, 6s. 

The Animal Story Book. With 
67 Illustrations. Cr. 8vo., gilt edges, 6s. 

The Red Book of Animal Stories. 

With 65 Illustrations. Crown 8vo., gilt 
edges, 6s. 

The Arabian Nights Entertain- 
ments. With 66 Illustrations. Cr. 8vo., 
gilt edges, 6s. 

The Book of Romance. With 8 
Coloured Plates and 44 other Illustrations. 
Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 6s, 

Lyall. — The Surges Letters : a 

Record of Child Life in the Sixties. By 
Edna Lyall. With Coloured Frontispiece 
and 8 other Full-page Illustrations by 
Walter S. Stacey. Crown 8vo., 2S. 6d. 

Meade (L. T.). 

Daddy's Boy. With 8 Illustrations. 

Crown 8vo., gilt edges, 3s. net. 
Deb and the Duchess. With 7 

Illustrations. Cr. 8vo., gilt edges, 3s. net. 
The Beresford Prize. With 7 

Illustrations. Cr. 8vo., gilt edges, 3s. net. 
The House of Surprises. With 6 

Illustrations. Cr. Svo., gilt edges, 3s. net. 



MESSRS. LONGMANS & CO.'S STANDARD AND GENERAL WORKS. 33 



Children's Books — continued. 



Murray. — Flower Legends for 
Children. By Hilda Murray (the Hon. 
Mrs. Murray of Elibank). Pictured by J. 
S. Eland. With numerous Coloured and 
other Illustrations. Oblong 4to., 65. 

Penrose. — Chubby : a Nuisance. 
By Mrs. Penrose. With 8, Illustrations 
by G. G. Manton. Crown 8vo., 35. 6d. 

Praeger (Rosamond). 

The Adventures of Thh Three 
Bold Babes: Hector, Honoria and 
Alisander. a Story in Pictures. With 
24 Coloured Plates and 24 Outline Pic- 
tures. Oblong 4to., 3s. 6d. 

The Further Doings of the Three 
Bold Babes. With 24 Coloured Pictures 
and 24 Outline Pictures. Oblong ^\.o.,2>s.bd. 

Roberts. — The Adventures of 
Captain John Smith ; Captain of Two 
Hundred and Fifty Horse, and sometime 
President of Virginia. By E. P. Roberts. 
With 17 Illustrations and 3 Maps. Crown 
Svo., 5s. net. 

Stevenson. — A Child's Garden of 
Verses. By Robert Louis Stevenson. 
Fcp. Svo., gilt top, 55. 

Tappan. — Old Ballads in Prose. 
By Eva March Tappan. With 4 Illus- 
trations by Fanny Y. Cory. Crown Svo., 
gilt top, 4s. net. 



Upton (Florence K. and Bertha). 

The Adventures of Two Dutch 
Dolls and a ' Golliwogg\ With 31 
Coloured Plates and numerous Illustra- 
tions in the Text. Oblong 4to., 65. 

The Golliwogg' s Bicycle Club. 
With 31 Coloured Plates and numerous 
Illustrations in the Text. Oblong 4to., 65. 

The Golliwogg at the Seaside, 
With 31 Coloured Plates and numerous 
Illustrations in the Text. Oblong 4to. , 6s. 

The Golliwogg in War. With 31 
Coloured Plates. Oblong 410., 6s. 

The Golliwogg's Polar Adven- 
tures. With 31 Coloured Plates. Ob- 
long 4to., 6s. 

The Golliwogg' s Auto-go-cart. 
With 31 Coloured Plates and numerous 
Illustrations in the Text. Oblong 4to., 6s, 

The Golliwogg s Air-Ship. With 

30 Coloured Pictures and numerous Illus- 
trations in the Text. Oblong 4to., 6s. 

The Vege- Men's Revenge. With 

31 Coloured Plates and numerous Illus- 
trations in the Text. Oblong 4to., 6s. 

Wemyss. — ' Things We T'h ought 

of': Told from a Child's Point of View. 
By Mary C. E. Wemyss, Author of 'All 
About All of Us '. With 8 Illustrations in 
Colour by S. R. Praeger. Crown 8vo., 
3s. 6J. 



The Silver Library. 

Crown Svo. 3s. ^d. each Volume. 



Arnold's (Sir Edwin) Seas and Lands. With 
71 Illustrations. 3J. 6d. j 

Bagehot's (W.) Biographical Studies, 3^. dd. j 

Bagehot's (W.) Economic Studies. 3J. 6d. j 

Bagehot's (W.) Literary Studies. With Portrait. | 
3 vols., 3^. 6d. each. 

Baker's (Sir S. W.) Eight Years in Ceylon. | 

With 6 Illustrations. 3J. 6d. \ 

Baker's (Sir S. W.) Rifle and Hound in Ceylon. : 

With 6 Illustrations. 35. 6d. , 

Baring-Gould's (Rcy. S.) Curious Myths of the 
Middle Ages. 3^. 6d. | 

I 

Baring-Gould's (Rev. S.) Origin and DeYelop- 
ment of Religious Belief. 2 vols. 3^. 6i/. each. ; 

Becker's (W. A.) Gallus : or, Roman Scenes in the | 
Time of Augustus. With 26 Illus. 3s. 6d. 



Becker's (W. A.) Charicles : or, Illustrations of 
the Private Life of the Ancient Greeks. 
With 26 Illustrations. 3^. (yd. 

Bent's (J. T<) The Ruined Cities of Mashona- 
land. With 117 Illustrations. 3^. 6d. 

Brassey's (Lady) A Voyage in the < Sunbeam '. 

With 66 Illustrations. 3^. (>d. 

Buckle's (H. T.) History of Civilisation in 
England. 3 vols. lo^. 6d. 

Churchill's (Winston S.) The Story of the 
Malakand Field Force, 1897. With 6 Maps 
and Plans. 35. 6d. 

Clodd's (E.) Story of Creation: a Plain Account 
of Evolution. With 77 Illustrations. 3J. 6d. 

Gonybeare (Rev. W. J.) and Howson's (Very 
Rev. J. S.) Life and Epistles of St. Paul. 

With 46 Illustrations. 3J. dd. 
Dougall's (L.) Beggars All : a Novel. 3^. 6d. 
Doyle's (Sir A. Conan) Micah Clarke. A Tale of 

Monmoutu's Rebellion. With 10 lUusts. 2,s.(id. 



34 MESSRS. LONGMANS & CO.'S STANDARD AND GENERAL WORKS. 



The Silver Library — continued. 



Doyle's (Sir A. Conan) The Captain of the 
Polestar, and other Tales. 3^. 6d. 

Doyle's (Sir A. Conan) The Refugees: A Tale of 
the Huguenots. With 25 Illustrations. 3J 6d, 

Doyle's (Sir A. Conan) The Stark Munro Letters. 

35. (>d. 

Fronde's (J. A.) The History of England, from 

the Fall of Wolsey to the Defeat of the 
Spanish Armada. 12 vols. 35. 6d. each. 

Froude's (J. A.) The English in Ireland. 3 vols. 

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